oldVOR
forum member
Don't forget the deck is gone and accidentally walk out the sliding door one evening!
Do you know Gabe that well? LOL!Don't forget the deck is gone and accidentally walk out the sliding door one evening!
That is only as good as the amount of Alcohol consumed!
Nice job way better lookingWell, the new deck is almost complete, just needs some railing and a paver base to step down onto.
We went from 5'10" deep to 9'3", pretty much the same overall width, went from 15'10" to 15'9".
Love it, it's super solid. The sunroom has a 1-foot overhang, the ledger board is attached to the house under that overhang, all the joists are notched and under that overhang, and there's all kinds of bracing under it. The step stringers have extra bracing on the inside and extra blocking in-between all 4 stringers, another super-solid item.
Abso-fuckin-lutely love it. Can't wait to get the railing up. Doing a cable system, just need to decide final details.
First pic is the old thing.
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Nice job way better looking
Looks good @Gabe! If you would like some pointer on that cable detail, let me know we do a lot of them. I am building our deck right now also and its to have cable rail with wood (IPE) post. I have several different detailed drawing for spacing, layout in metal or would post. Top hat cables are pricy but great stuff.
Standard “rule of thumb” whatever you have cantilevering past your beam/girder, you should have 3 times that in the other side. Ie. If you have a 2 foot cantilever past your beam, you should have 6 feet minimum of joist on the other side. Your beam/ girder looks to be approximately in the midpoint of your joist span. I know you have a few diagonals but you might want to consider putting a few posts out across the end before you run your rails. It will be a bitch to jack up and make right after the fact if it settles. I know you like “your shit” nice, just sayin’
@Gabe get your railings done yet? Here is another solution for building you own cable rails. Check out Feeneyinc.com they have everything you need to make your own. Cool stuff, more affordable then top hat cables.
Sounds like you need a subsonic 22
I just bought a Ruger Precision hmr17 for all these reasons. LolOn a side note, yesterday I killed an adult groundhog with my BB rifle.
I've shot at this thing before and it just laughed it off.
Yesterday I got him right in the forehead. Bounced around for a second and lied there immobile.
Went outside with a few more BBs and the rifle, the fukkin thing was still alive. I shot him in the head another couple of times, once in an eye, twice in an ear, trying to find soft stuff for the BB to penetrate. Eventually the thing died.
Nothing more I would've loved than to go out with my .40 and blow the thing up, but my neighbors probably would've called the cops, LOL
Are the boards Trex or wood? If they are wood, do you think with the humidity they are swelling and causing them to shift?No railing yet, but thanks, we'll check out that link.
I'm having some issues with some of the board gaps opening up to the point where you can stick a finger in-between.
I used some Trex hidden fasteners, 2 different kinds, one T-shaped plastic retainer and a metal bracket. Both supposed to leave the perfect gap behind. Both going into biscuit cuts that I made into the sides of the boards (using a biscuit cut machine, lent to me by my bro-in-law). I want to pull them and use different hardware. I love the look of hidden fasteners, not face-screwed.
I used a heavy duty ratcheting strap when I installed the boards, to pull them tight. Gaps were great when I was done. Then within a few days they started changing. WTF??
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