Popping Sounds - Suspension

Vapour Trails

The Renaissance Man
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Strut mounts, I'd bet my life on it.

I've been telling people for as long as I remember the GT500 strut mounts aren't the solution.

As far as the bar attachment to the strut, the spec is 85 lbs-ft.
 

UnleashedBeast

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I've been doing a LOT of research and reading, and here is what I know to be the cure for the infamous clunking problem. When I modified my suspension, I took the advice of a trusted member who said to buy the SVT GT500 upper strut mounts. It was an assumption for me, and others, that the "upgraded" strut mount was stronger than the previous design, but we were wrong. Take a look at the link below to see the mounts I purchased.

GT500 SVT strut mounts

If you look at the pictures you will see they have either natural metal studs or "green" colored studs. Also notice the part number M-18183-A (7R3V-18183-A or AR3V-18183-A). They are the OLD Ford design, and will NOT eliminate front end clunk. I always wondered why my original strut mounts were silent, but the new GT500 mounts clunked. Observe the pictures below and find out why.

The first picture is the SVT GT500 mount. Notice it's metal inside, and no added rubber cushion. *Please note the spring rubber seat is currently removed in these pictures. It's installed on my car underneath the Steeda HD Camber plates.*

DSC00771.jpg


Now, let's look at the new revised mount from the TSB *The entire strut assembly is still intact. I left the original equipment together.*

DSC00775.jpg


Do you see the added rubber material added to the mount? Now, let's compare them side by side.

DSC00778.jpg


DSC00776.jpg


Ford added extra dampening rubber in the new design. The new part number 8R3Z-18183-B. They will either have a black or yellow stud color design. They are both the exact same mount, the color was changed to black for manufacturing reasons. The tell tale sign if you have the new mount, and don't remember the numbers is to locate the added rubber material in the bottom of the mount where the top of the shock mounts to it.

So, now we know what's required to get rid of the clunk because I know for a FACT the Steeda HD upper camber strut mounts did NOT solve the issue. The New OEM mount is the only thing that will, but how do we adjust for too much negative camber without using cheap camber bolts that have been known to move under load?

Use these instead. They have all the camber adjustment while still using the new OEM strut mount, and not having to worry about cheap camber bolts.

Steeda billet camber adjusters

Now my front end is silent as the day I bought it.

This was added in another thread by someone who had the problem cured.

I confirm the part# 8R3Z-18183-B.
After I sent letters to the Ford Board of Directors, Ford Customer Service
and Bill Ford, Ford Engineer Ralph Arning sent my dealer the 8R3Z-18183-B.
Dealer replaced both struts also as they were both leaking.
Repair completed 6/5/07

I found this info in my THUNK file.
The new mount will look identical to your original except the mounting studs
a few mm's longer. The real change was to the compound of the rubber used
in the mount. The "chuckle" or "loose lumbar" was attributed to the radial
and axial rates on the mount. The new rubber compund corrects this issue
and thus corrects the loose lumbar noise from the front suspension. I've
compared the test graphs of the two mounts and there are drastic improvements
to both the static radial and the static axial rates for the new mount.

Edit: You may find this interesting. From my Thunk file.....
Also, although it's not necessary, adding the 4R3Z-5025-A X member brace will
help with the load put on the upper mount. This may explain why the convertibles
do not have this problem.

Hmmm...Soon after this the braces showed up on the hard tops.
I went with the CHE K brace.

The K member brace was added to all 2008 and up Mustangs after the discovery.
 

HOLYWD

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I have had the horrible clunk/ pop since about 2 months after my car , until now .
Did. A sway bar delete / radiator support from UPR .

So it was either the sway bar , end links , or radiator support .... I am going to guess end links !


I love driving again :)
 

BlackKnight

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I figured out what the sound was... it started to get worse and I started to hear a knocking sound. Check out the picture below:
img00055201010131824.jpg


This was completly unscrewd from the strut. I bought the blue lock tight and screwed it back on. The sounds disapeared for about 3 days... and it seems thats its becoming loose again, i can hear a faint knocking.

I bought these Tokico D-specs from www.stangsuspension.com. I have sent them numerous emails asking about how I can get this covered on the Tokico warranty - their site says to contact the vendor you bought the struts from... however, they arent responding.

I am getting frustrated... anyone have any ideas on how i can get these covered under warranty?
 

Sam Strano

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I'm sorry to say.... this you have a fight on your hands. Tokico is not good about warranty and shouldn't screw you because the vendor you bought from either can't or won't (in this case can't being out of business).

Best I can tell you... Use some high-strength loctite when you screw that gland nut back in so it can't back out again. But I'm not sure the strut isn't hurt since the insert has been left to bang around.

Hopefully they warranty it. Then you can sell the set and get something better like Koni's. :)
 

Nitemare

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I had the same problem and took it to Ford. I had about 25000 miles on the car when I changed my springs. I left to original ford shocks that came with the car and just installed to Eibach springs. I got the popping sound about a month later. I figured it was because I lowered the car. I took it to Ford and the ended up finding a loose nut or bolt on my under carriage and the replaced the passanger side control arm. I dont believe the changed my endlinks. Hope this helps.
 

Nitemare

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I recently changed to the GT 500 suspension and I noticed some small shiny bearings on the ground. I came from the GT500 strut mounts, so I eventually went back to the original mounts the car came with. No popping. I would recommend getting upgraded strut mounts for lowered cars. Im looking into getting the STEEDA heavy duty strut mounts. Stage3motorsports has a good price on them plus free shipping on everything. Let me know if this help you fellow stanger
 

BlackKnight

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I want to loctite this bolt so it doesnt come loose on me again. I put the blue loctite on it last wednesday, and it broke loose and is coming undone again. however, after applying the blue loctite i only waited 15 min before re-installing on the car and driving home from my parents house.

How long should I let this strut sit on my work bench before re-installing so I know the loctite is fully cured? Should I think about using the red loctite?

img00055201010131824.jpg
 

UnleashedBeast

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Use RED loctite, not Blue. Then allow it to cure overnight if possible. Normal full cure is 24 hours IIRC.

*UPDATE*

I traded in my 2008 Mustang GT for a 2009 Shelby GT500. You would think since it's a 2009 that Ford would have installed the revised strut mount to cure the clunking problem. NOT!!! My car was built in late 2008, and it still has the old "green stud" strut mounts. My car has 1700 miles on it now and I can already tell the clunking problems are getting louder. WAY TO GO FORD, DEE DEE DEE!

That's OK, after I buy some new springs from Sam Strano I will also be installing the revised mounts.
 

krang00

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Ok, my turn to report having the same issue :) So, here's the situation:

Parts I'm running: steeda adjustable end links, sam strano front adjustable sway bar, tokico d-spec struts, maximum motorsports cc plates, eibach sportlines and bmr tubular a-arms.

Symptoms: when going over bumps or turning while moving I'm hearing a popping or clunking sound. I can drive about 10 mph and move the whee l back and forth quickly and it does it almost every time. I can "feel" it at my feet. Although, I was on the highway for like 20 minutes and didn't hear it at all.

Background: Car has about 40k miles. Started happening on my way back from the last track event. This was the first event I actually decided to start messing with strut settings - ran full firm and backed it off about 2 turns over the course of the day. Before I left I decided to soften them up for a smoother ride home. I didn't realize the max softness was 7.5 turns and figured they would "bottom out" at max softness. Got to 20 twenty turns and left it there. Drove about 5 miles before I pulled over and put it back to 3 turns off max firmness. Do you think it could be the tokico struts causing the issues? I don't remember hearing the issue on the track.

NOTE: almost forgot, I just finished tightening the sway bar end link bolts to spec, sway bar mount bolts, strut to spindle bolts, steering rack bolts to spindle bolts, strut tower bolts, and spindle to a-arm bolts and it's still there.
 
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DPHC13

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Well with my 2008 GT I had a "popping" sound like you described, I took it to the dealer (still under warrantee) and they ended up replacing both the front lower control arms. Problem solved! Hope this helps someone. :)
 

WOT

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Check your end link on the side that you hear the popping sound. I had the same issue and they turned out to be the culprit.
 

krang00

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I'm having the sound happening on both sides. I have the steeda end links which are solid joints at both ends. I checked to make sure everything was aligned and torqued to spec but it still persists.

I'll have to check the a-arms. They are both BMR tubular non-adjustable units with less than 1000 miles on them and the front bolt is hard to get too, perhaps I didn't get it torqued down enough.
 

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