Scanning your ECU for codes would be useful but I fear that you've probably cleared them when you disconnected the battery. Does your engine turn over freely?
You said you have fuel. Can you be 100% sure of that? Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on? The injector rail doesn't have a Shrader valve to allow you to attach a pressure gauge so you could try pulling one of the injectors from the intake manifold and with the injector harness attached, ask another person to crank the engine while you observe the spray pattern. If there's very little pressure, the culprit could be the fuel pressure sensor on the injector rail.
If the injector spray pattern looks normal, pull a spark plug and, with the coil attached, observe for spark while another person cranks the engine. If you do indeed have both fuel and spark, that leaves three other items to check: air, compression, and timing.
Air is easy. The intake system should be free of obstruction unless the throttle is jammed shut but even then, the engine should idle. With the ignition on (and engine off obviously), ask a second person to slowly depress the accelerator pedal while you observe the throttle blades for movement.
Checking for compression in all eight cylinders is also easy and will confirm there's no compression leak either past a valve that won't close properly or past a broken piston.
If there's a problem with the valve timing due to a broken chain tensioner or guide, a compression test would show low compression in at least two cylinders. A leak down test would confirm if the compression leak is occurring through an intake valve, exhaust valve, or a piston into the crankcase.
I'm sure one of these basic troubleshooting steps will show something is amiss and pinpoint the problem. Please report back your results and we'll take it from there.