2007 GT Rear suspension concern?

Samos3

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It is adjustable kinda regret it I don’t know the correct way to adjust I pretty much eye balled it
My car is lowered about .75-1.0", I adjusted mine so the tires were evenly spaced inside the fender lip.
Same as the rest of the suspension, car weight on tires on flat level ground for adjusting and tightening the bolts.
But that is probably not the problem.
 

MasterofDisaster

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my new control is already ripping the bushing
Which bushing is ripping - the one at the body or the one at the differential?

Did you replace the bushing between the upper control arm and the differential?

When you say "wobbles in the rear," do mean that it vibrates? I had a 67 Mustang that shook like crazy when I let off the gas. Nobody could figure it out, but I found it was a bad u-joint in the driveshaft. Chock the wheels, jack up the rear of your car, and leave it in gear. See if you can turn the wheels at all.
 

Racer45

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If you decide to tackle the job again maybe order up a small tub of “prothane grease” or “ evil energy grease” on Amazon or something.

Make sure your suspension is also loaded when you perform the final torque values

To Center my axle I just use a long flat edge on the outside of the fender “like a ruler and a tape measure off of that to the tire side wall. Note: this also has to be done while suspension is loaded

If your car axle is wobbling then your definitely having a tracking issues but the photos of those bushings say enough.

Another mention would be did you also install “lower control arm relocation brackets” after lowing it as well? Cause if not and your control arms are level or the axle end of the arm is higher than the body end of the arms it will make the car feel really unstable and do some weird things
 

Pentalab

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If I remember correctly, there was special synthetic grease used. This was for my adjustable BMR UCA...and also my pair of non adjustable BMR LCA's (rectangular boxed type). If the rear has been lowered, LCA's need to be installed.

Also check the large bushing at differential end of the UCA. With a Poly installed at the front end of the UCA, you can only use either the OEM Ford rubber unit, or a steeda spherical bushing at the differential end. Poly to Poly is a no-no, it will bind. That was coming from Kelly at BMR years ago. Spherical to spherical will also work, but NVH will increase a bunch.
 
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brasil

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Does it count if I lift the rear with a jack?
..to bring FULL load on all 4 wheels.. you nee to put the front wheels on ramps... while using jack stands under the rear axle to " bring the car back into level. then you bounce the car at all 4 corners a few times.. Now you are ready to torque alle the nuts /bolts. About torquing - I always turn the nut loose... and start from "Zero " ... because you never know, who worked at the car before.
same for wheel nuts !
 

Midlife Crises

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If you are using the stock type bushings where the rubber is vulcanized or fuzed to the inner and outer metal sleeves then it is important the vehicle be at ride height with suspension carrying the normal weight on all four corners when the bolts are tightened. If you are using polymer, plastic or metallic bushings with a rotating element that requires lubrication it is still a good idea to have the vehicle setting level with suspension loaded but not mandatory.
It is also mandatory to use a non petroleum based synthetic grease on polymer and plastic bushings to avoid the lubricant degrading the bushing material.
 

Kev555

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Hello I’m back so wobble is still here and my new control is already ripping the bushing I’m at a lost right now
Sounds like serious side play in your axle if its ripping the bush at this stage
 

BM08

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Hello I’m back life happened haven’t had time for anything but here a picture of my driver side rear wheel

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IMG_0413.jpeg

IMG_0414.jpeg
 

BM08

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Something I’m very confused about is that when I first got the car it wasn’t like that but the rear suspension start to make a cracking noise I changed lower and upper control arms and the Panhard bar
 

BM08

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Another thing the type of lowering control arm on the vehicle weren’t oem that had some sort of relocation bracket and unfortunately I tossed them out
 

Midlife Crises

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Just looking at the finder gap on the rear of your car it looks like you are lowered 1 1/2 to 2 inches. That much drop requires relocation brackets to correct the angle of the lower control arms and an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axle in the chassis. An adjustable upper control arm will let you correct the pinion angle.
By the way, I see you are missing a lug nut. What else is loose?
 

Candy10

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Take this car to a shop immediately. A car lowered that much needs an adjustable upper arm, and relocations brackets for the lowers. Based on the clearance arm you bought, it seems you are trying to do this as cheaply as possible. But it isnt any cheaper to do it over and over again rather than the right way the first time
 

GriffX

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And, you get a wobble feel in the rear if you have frequent contact with the bump stop. That combined with the LCA angle going up instead of down makes a car unstable.
I don't think that this is a wrong grease damage. Not sure if if this is possible, but I can think of a contact of the UCA with the underbody destroying the bushing (?) I remember that the early S197 had an additional bump stop at the UCA.
 

JC SSP

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Why would you throw out the relocation brackets?
 

BM08

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Just looking at the finder gap on the rear of your car it looks like you are lowered 1 1/2 to 2 inches. That much drop requires relocation brackets to correct the angle of the lower control arms and an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axle in the chassis. An adjustable upper control arm will let you correct the pinion angle.
By the way, I see you are missing a lug nut. What else is loose?
That’s stud has some bent threads on them that’s why I’m missing that lug nut
 

BM08

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So I want to do this right way instead of the cheaper way what exactly would I need? To fix this issue I saw the reply about saying about the relocation brackets adjustable UCA and adjustable panhard bar
 

JC SSP

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I have a set of new brackets... Unfortunately sold the upper and panhard long time ago.

1761310571397.png
 

BM08

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Ima just buy everything new that’s why I want to know exactly what I would need to fix this issue
 
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