2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[AutoXRacer]

I'm having deja vu all over again, lol.

Haha...

Hey Bruce, what made you break up your setup...going back to NA and selling?

 

[BruceH]

Haha...

Hey Bruce, what made you break up your setup...going back to NA and selling?

Insanity.

 

[lito]

Insanity.

Quoted for truth, lol.

 

[DiMora]

Update!!

Well, you know those SOS coils I bought and wanted to try...?



EPIC FAIL

I tried to WOT it last night...at 4,500 RPM spark blowout/misfire!!!

Tried it a few times...

So this morning I re-installed the OEM FRPPs and all is back to normal. Nice clean pull all the way to 7,000 RPM.

Sigh...

Wondering if MSD is any better...???

I have yet to hear of aftermarket coils being good on this car from any manufacturer.

I also read the GMS ones suck.

I don't know about the Accel ones.

What do you find wrong with the OEM units?

 

[AutoXRacer]

I have yet to hear of aftermarket coils being good on this car from any manufacturer.

I also read the GMS ones suck.

I don't know about the Accel ones.

What do you find wrong with the OEM units?

I just feel the spark is weak. Especially at low RPM use.
Sure they work. But a stronger spark would be so much better; better fuel economy and power from a more complete burn.

It sucks having to run such tiny gaps (0.024").

While using the SOS coils, I could tell a difference in street driving. The motor felt stronger like it wasn't so easy to stall it. With the stock coils, it doesn't stall, but it acts like it will. This is when you are in traffic and just ease off the clutch to make the car move forward without throttle. With the SOS coils, the car just leaped forward, while with the stock coils, you have to feather the clutch.

I just don't understand whats so hard about making a stronger coil for our cars. We have the room for bigger coils if needed.

 

[muztangman93]

Ill say it 1 more time Ive had accell coils for quite awhile no issues with them for me

 

[AutoXRacer]

Ill say it 1 more time Ive had accell coils for quite awhile no issues with them for me

Did you feel a difference with them?
Driveability-wise, idle, etc...?

 

[muztangman93]

Who knows. They work fine I have 2 sets of oem ones for backups just in case. Only true way would be to do before and after dyno run. I know Ive seen a lot of people say with aluminum drive shaft they felt a huge difference that's a mod I did and never could tell a thing.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Just wanted to give a quick update on my struggles with this build/setup.

First off, let me just state once and for all; anyone wanting to build a high horsepower motor for a daily driver, DON'T DO IT!!!!!

If I were to do it all over again, I would just slap a Ford Racing aluminator 5.0L Coyote motor and call it a day. No supercharger, no turbo, nothing.
Just some nice cams, headers, and call it a day.

I'm at 9,800 miles and the motor is still consuming lots of oil. PCV system has been removed and replaced with two separate breather catch cans and a breather at the oil filler tube.

This weekend at the track (road course - The Ridge), oil gushed out the oil filler tube breather (Metco part). Looked like a quart of oil blew up in the passenger side engine bay.

I replaced the breather cap with the OEM, ran another session and this time the passenger side breather catch can blew some nasty brown (chocolate milk in color) milky fluid.

Mind you that I have approximately 2-3 feet of emission hose leading to the breather catch can which is mounted inside the fender wall. I had to empty the passenger side catch can after every session; approximately 5oz of fluid every time.

Is all this blow by normal?

For five 20 mins sessions, the motor burnt through 1.25 full quarts of oil.
No one else with a Mustang had to keep adding oil to their motors; stock nor modded.

My next attempt to resolve the catch can breather issue is to lengthen the distance the filter is from the catch can. Basically the filter clamps on the catch can, so I will add a hose about 1-2 feet long between the catch can and filter in hopes to reduce or eliminate the splashing of fluid out through the filter. I am considering maybe adding a brillo pad of some sort in the can.

BTW, after the track day, the oil smells like crap; very pungent smell. Even smells like its burnt.

 

[skwerl]

I'm sorry to hear this, Gerald. Sounds like there's still more undiscovered issues in that motor. I hope that when you do find them that JDM steps up and takes care of them.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I'm sorry to hear this, Gerald. Sounds like there's still more undiscovered issues in that motor. I hope that when you do find them that JDM steps up and takes care of them.

By then, the warranty will be expired... sigh


I am telling you... If I would be recovered from all the expenses with this build, I would just order a 5.0L Coyote motor and slap it in; no blower!!

Just some wicked cams and some headers and call it a day.

I wouldn't be the fastest car on the track, but I would be stress free!!

I really need to do a compression check since its quick.
The leak down is a little more involved.

 

[BruceH]

My offer still stands to help assemble the motor if you decide to do a tear down, bore and hone. You might only need a hone and rings. It really sounds to me like you missed your chance at break in. I know you were following directions.

 

[muztangman93]

Sounds like alot of us. I love the idea of making big power and Im already as I would say pot commited like in poker. Ill continue to do things to finish what I started when money is avaliable for e85 and better transmission and rear end, But if I could do it all over again I would have left mine with the d1 procharger on there and stock motor. I would have saved alot of coin that I could have built a pole barn with. I cant take off in first gear and give it much gas it will spin if on street tires cant even go wot in 2nd gear so to go fast I have to start in 3rd gear roll wich takes a bit to pull boost so feels slow again. Was a hell of alot better being able to hook up before and feeling all the gears then it was to spend a ton of money to know it is capable of alot but not on the street where I only drive mine.

 

[TrackWhore]

My offer still stands to help assemble the motor if you decide to do a tear down, bore and hone. You might only need a hone and rings. It really sounds to me like you missed your chance at break in. I know you were following directions.

My thoughts exactly. Sounds to me like the rings never seated. Had the same thing happen to me on my Subaru years back. That thing would eat up a quart every tank of gas.

Sorry to hear that you're having troubles.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So you're saying if you miss your break in window that's it...?
It will never break in?



On another note...is this something to worry about...?
This wasn't happening earlier; readings used to be solid - needle was steady.
Not sure when it started to vibrate like that.

Is it the gauge or the oil pressure???

Video:

 

[BruceH]

There is only one shot AFAIK. Once the machined surface peaks are rolled over instead of machined by the rings that's it.

What's the stuff they used to put in the intake of old diesel motors to help with break in? Was it mica? I wouldn't do it but people have put "pixie dust" into the air intake when a motor didn't break in. One of the old machine companies supplied it with new equipment. This was a long time ago when machining operations weren't as precise as they are now.

It sounds like you have ruled out all the other sources of oil consumption. The only thing left that I can think of would be if you were overfilling it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I spoke with Total Seal and they suggest the block was improperly prepped. Meaning the honing process was missed some how.

What they suggested before taking anything apart is to buy some Johnson Evinrude Engine Tune Up; its basically de-carbonizer.

Total Seal claims to have heard my story a million times and in most cases, the Johnson Evinrude trick works. As they believe I may have "glazed" a cylinder or several due to lack of proper tuning.

So they suggest for me to buy two cans and give it a try. Its basically the same procedure as the Sea Foam stuff when sucking it through vacuum; but this stuff is actually sprayed in.

Once the whole can is consumed (caution was given of huge amounts of smoke) take the car out and hammer it to break apart the carbon (in my case clean off the glaze on the cylinder walls) and flush it out.

They don't guarantee with will work, but insisted its worth trying before tearing anything part.

They did warn me that Ford Racing has issues with cylinder walls and not being prepped properly from the factory. That any knowledgeable builder should always do their own honing prior to assembly.

So we'll see if this works.

I also ordered a compression and leak down testers.
Wonder if I should wait for the compression tester to come in, record results, de-carbonize, then take another reading.

 

[skwerl]

Breaking in a new motor by driving like Grandma on her way to church results in a motor that prefers to be driven by Grandma on her way to church.

Different situation but when I get new chainsaws I wait until I have a big removal to put them in service. Breaking in the saws by working the dog shit out of them results in a saw that performs stronger for its entire service life. I've broken in saws gently and they are usually way down on power in comparison.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I wish I could have done that...and done it.

But with the crappy tune I was given...there was no chance.

 

[08fordgt]

My guess wud also b the piston rings.