2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[AutoXRacer]

First snag...

How the hell do you remove this damn spider pulley!!??

I understand its reversed threads, so I am applying torque clockwise.
Still it doesn't budge after applying penetrant oil and standing on the breaker bar. sigh

 

[skwerl]

BFH?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Finally took the motor out

After disassembling the motor trying to get to the valve covers...

Found gobbs of oil in the intake manifold...I will take the lower part apart to see how much oil really is sitting in the manifold.

Driver side head

Man that's a clean valve cover lol

Are these lines normal on the cams and roller rockers?

Passenger side

Clean cover

Exhaust ports

Passenger side

Does this indicate a gasket leak?

Take a look at the exhaust valves and let me know what you all think.

Driver side

Clutch

 

[AutoXRacer]

BFH?

BFH???

 

[BruceH]

Do the lines on your cams and rockers catch a fingernail? Can they be felt at all or are they just marks?

 

[AutoXRacer]

No, they are smooth... They can not be felt.

 

[BruceH]

No, they are smooth... They can not be felt.

No problem then. They are just pressure marks.

 

[one eyed willy]

Time to ditch those header gaskets, looks like perceys brand?..... Get some OEM MLS gaskets.

 

[05stroker]

BFH???

"Big Fucking Hammer"

No problem then. They are just pressure marks.

Yep.

Time to ditch those header gaskets, looks like perceys brand?..... Get some OEM MLS gaskets.

OEM are the best way to go on the headers.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Time to ditch those header gaskets, looks like perceys brand?..... Get some OEM MLS gaskets.

Yep, the are Perceys... I thought they were better than OEM????
I did not notice any exhaust leak sounds though.

What is OEM MLS?


Just bought a Craftsman 1/2" impact wrench...nothing.
Not sure what else to do, this one is rated to 580 ft/lbs...although I tested it on a few months road driven lug nut torqued to 100 ft/lbs and it took 2 seconds or so to break the torque, so if it was truly a 580 ft/lb impact it should have broken the torque instantly. No...?

Thinking about getting a bigger impact wrench. sigh

Not sure what else to do!!

 

[BruceH]

Yep, the are Perceys... I thought they were better than OEM????
I did not notice any exhaust leak sounds though.

What is OEM MLS?

Original Equipment Manufacturer Multi Layer Steel.

I think that part of it is because you used header bolts. More than likely they loosened up on you. Use factory studs wherever you can and stage 8 where a factory stud won't work. You can also use high temp rtv to seal up any surface imperfections.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Any comments on the exhaust valves? Do they look normal?

Whats the deal with the white colored valves?

 

[golkhl]

Did you try PB Blaster for the crank bolt? Did mine last week, sprayed it with PB Blaster and let sit overnight.

 

[one eyed willy]

Original Equipment Manufacturer Multi Layer Steel.

I think that part of it is because you used header bolts. More than likely they loosened up on you. Use factory studs wherever you can and stage 8 where a factory stud won't work. You can also use high temp rtv to seal up any surface imperfections.

OEM studs give a ton more clamping pressure! I tried using bolts and each one felt like it was going to strip before clamping down the gasket. With studs they go so far into the head there's no way to strip them, worse you could do is break a stud, which is unlikely if you torque to spec.

Those exhaust valves look normal to me, the black carbon lets you know your getting plenty of fuel. Exhaust valves probably get the hottest of anything besides the top of the pistons.

I'm more curious how your intake valves looked since it's been sitting? Now that you have the SC out of the way.

 

[DiMora]

That's a complete rebuild, you know?
If I were gonna do that, I'd just crate the bitch up and away it goes to JDM.
Let them figure it out.

I would look into the pricing of that option as well. Didn't JDM send you the block with the heads and blower already installed?

Problem with that is that JDM is already giving me grief about the tune saying its running rich and that's why I'm burning oil. That the rich tune has not let the rings seat.

So if I crate it up, they will charge me all the labor and parts to rebuild it.
The cost to ship it equals the cost to rebuild it locally.

We have not given you grief or said anything about your tune, just that we feel the engine is getting too much fuel because your pistons are super clean from seeing the pictures you posted. We have not discussed cost of our labor or parts if you were to send it back to us. I've said it several times now, your next step is to take the engine out and take the heads off see what is going on. Weather that is done by you, us, or someone else until the engine is out and apart you are just speculating. I have told you if there is a problem with the heads we will figure something out to try and help you, I don't know what though because the problem has not been discovered yet.

You ran the break in oil way too long, your getting too much fuel into the cylinders some how, the engine is ventilated with a breather setup we do not recommend. You have had a consumption problem for several thousand miles and have not taken the engine out to see what the problem is like us and many others have suggested. I know you take pride and care about this car, do it a favor and lets try to figure out whats going on by taking the right measures and getting the engine opened up. No matter how many times you post and ask questions until this is done its all speculation!

JimIII

Oh boy...here we go.

I seem to recall Gerald not wanting to run any tune other than the JDM tune for warranty reasons, and I recall him following the JDM recommended break-in procedure, and that he was not able to get a JDM tune in a timely manner, and when he did, it would not run correctly...so he switched to a Lito tune.

But...I'm getting old, and my memory may be failing me, but that's my Cliff's notes version.

And now the thing is guzzling oil like a drunk at an open bar...

I feel for you, Gerald.

I'd probably rebuild it myself this time...that way you know it it done right. I'd pull the pistons, rehone it if necessary (have the block inspected by a local pro), and re-ring the whole shebang after gapping the rings yourself. If you are adding new heads, now is the time. After it is back together, I'd drive it like I stole it to break it in correctly.

I'd also add either E85 or meth. You've come this far...why hold back?

 

[eddieval5]

Yep, the are Perceys... I thought they were better than OEM????
I did not notice any exhaust leak sounds though.

What is OEM MLS?


Just bought a Craftsman 1/2" impact wrench...nothing.
Not sure what else to do, this one is rated to 580 ft/lbs...although I tested it on a few months road driven lug nut torqued to 100 ft/lbs and it took 2 seconds or so to break the torque, so if it was truly a 580 ft/lb impact it should have broken the torque instantly. No...?

Thinking about getting a bigger impact wrench. sigh

Not sure what else to do!!

My Cornwell 1/2 has a breakaway of 1200ftlbs maybe try finding a friend with one of those and give it a try.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Wow, 1200ft/lbs!!!

Just ordered up another impact gun from Sears... 711 ft/lbs. Hopefully this one will do it. Otherwise, will need to find a Cornwell... lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

Still struggling with this pulley removal.

Seeing how difficult it is to remove, I am thinking I may not re-install this setup.
The engine serpentine belt is locked in there, behind this spider pulley/blower pulley.
The motor only has 10K miles and its this hard to remove. Imagine trying to service the serpentine belt...how the hell are you supposed to replace it???

You would have to remove fan, radiator, hoses, etc...just to get enough access to get something in there to remove this pulley. Crazy!! Who comes up with these retarded designs!!??

I think the Metco setup is in my future... sigh
As soon as I can remove this POS!!!!

 

[tigerhonaker]

Still struggling with this pulley removal.

Seeing how difficult it is to remove, I am thinking I may not re-install this setup.
The engine serpentine belt is locked in there, behind this spider pulley/blower pulley.
The motor only has 10K miles and its this hard to remove. Imagine trying to service the serpentine belt...how the hell are you supposed to replace it???

You would have to remove fan, radiator, hoses, etc...just to get enough access to get something in there to remove this pulley. Crazy!! Who comes up with these retarded designs!!??

I think the Metco setup is in my future... sigh
As soon as I can remove this POS!!!!

Gerald ...

Sorry buddy your having so much trouble with all that.




Terry

 

[AutoXRacer]

Interesting:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/582428-removing-stock-lower-pulley.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ower-crank-pulley-w-engine-trans-out-car.html