2013 GT nitrous install

[NoSlo5oH]

Ok nitrous users, I am ready to tap into the TPS wire. I have heard some say use the green wire with the purple stripe or the brown wire. I only want too cut one of these wires, so I am asking one last time, which one do I need to tap into? BTW, my WOT/RPM window switch can be programmed to use a rising or falling edge signal.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Here is a pic of the custom lines that Nitrous Outlet made for me. The 90 degree bends on the nozzle end of the hoses was definitely needed with the nozzle placement on the bottom of the intake tube.

 

[Need4Speed12]

Ok nitrous users, I am ready to tap into the TPS wire. I have heard some say use the green wire with the purple stripe or the brown wire. I only want too cut one of these wires, so I am asking one last time, which one do I need to tap into? BTW, my WOT/RPM window switch can be programmed to use a rising or falling edge signal.

I used the brown wire, has worked flawlessly from the day I set it up.

 

[DTL]

brown wire

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Brown wire it is then.

 

[Neal@]

I sure will and thanks for the speedy service on the custom lines that I ordered yesterday. You told me that you were going to build them as soon as we got off of the phone, but I didn't expect you to ship them the same day too! They're scheduled to be delivered tomorrow and that means I can continue with the install.

HAHA we like to get things done over here.

 

[D98GT]

I just used the brown wire as well; I should be finished with my install today after a few more wiring things are completed.

Then it's time to get the microedge programmed and let er rip

 

[NoSlo5oH]

I powered up the car for the first time since the nitrous install. I am still unsure if I programmed the wot/rpm window switch properly though. Here's what I did: Set the box to falling edge since I am using the brown tps wire. I programmed the box to 0000 on rpm and 0000 off rpm and set the tps to 4.1. When I press the accelerator the tps reading falls to 1.2 at about 85% throttle, but I don't hear the fuel and nitrous solenoids click. Am I not supposed to hear them without the engine running?

 

[D98GT]

I just had issues with the brown wire myself when trying to program mine so ended up going with the green/violet wire as the brown wire was sending some crazy signals.

Turn your ignition on (but not cranking) and power up your kit (do this while bottle/fuel is not on). Go WOT and you should hear the solenoids click.

The issue when I used the brown wire is that when I turned the ignition off before powering off the kit, it was sending it the signal to start spraying when the car was turned off. That could have been bad if I hadn't noticed it.

The issue with the other wire is it seems it sprays before 100% wot. I'll still do some more configuring on my wiring.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Thanks D98GT. I sure hope mine works with the brown wire. I am tired of fooling around with this wiring.

 

[D98GT]

Keep the thread updated with what you find out; it's frustrating to be ready to spray but being held up with some simple wiring haha

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Keep the thread updated with what you find out; it's frustrating to be ready to spray but being held up with some simple wiring haha

I will, but I won't be ready to spray the car for a while though. I still have to buy my bottle, bottle bracket, and Nano system before the install is complete.

 

[LOUDCOYOTE]

OP I havnt heard you say anything about the rpm wire you used for the rpm switch. where are you getting the tach signal from.
I also heard the wire to use is the grn/purp wire for the tps sensor.
I am also doing a second hand kit install, zex, so wont be dealing with a wot switch perse however It will need the signal for the box, the zex kit has a built in wot switch.
will also be using a rpm window switch so any info on where your tach signal came from will be appreciated.

 

[DTL]

You can pull the tach signal off of the pos. wire on any coil, I believe. Most instructions say to use cyl. #1 (and I did) but I've seen dynos read off any coil so I'm guessing that works too.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

OP I havnt heard you say anything about the rpm wire you used for the rpm switch. where are you getting the tach signal from.
I also heard the wire to use is the grn/purp wire for the tps sensor.
I am also doing a second hand kit install, zex, so wont be dealing with a wot switch perse however It will need the signal for the box, the zex kit has a built in wot switch.
will also be using a rpm window switch so any info on where your tach signal came from will be appreciated.

I forgot to mention that I did pick up the rpm signal from the #1 coil negative wire. I also turned off the on and off rpm settings in the window switch to bypass it for testing since the engine was not running. I used the brown TPS wire (falling edge) as that's what everyone else who had been down this road recommended.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Need4Speed, D98GT, and DTL,

If it's not too much trouble, can each of you guys perform the following test for me?

Turn your car's ignition on (do not start the engine and leave nitrous bottle closed), turn your nitrous arming switch on, and press the accelerator pedal to the floor to see if your nitrous and fuel solenoids click? You may have to set the on/off rpm settings on your window switches to 0000 first. My solenoids don't click when I do this and I'd like to verify whether or not this is normal and if the solenoids will only operate when the engine is running.

Thanks

 

[LOUDCOYOTE]

turning off the rpm switch may take out the ground or the voltage that the circuit needs to operate, you may have to bypass the relay all together if you wired it up that way.
throttle switch sees the set voltage then sends the positive. but has no negative to make it work
rpm switch sees the your engine rpm is in the rpm window then provides the negative. circuit is now active.
no rpm, no negative, no workie, gotta provide what ever the rpm window switch adds to the circuit

 

[D98GT]

Correct, without the window switch ruling it out, with the key in the on position and wot I get the solenoids to click as they are receiving the voltage when wot to make them hit.

Your window switch is likely over riding that as it's getting the voltage but isn't completing the circuit until your rpm is in the designated area.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

I had to drill a hole in the intake cover to clear the FPSS.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

Another pic of the intake cover.