4.6 Rouchcharged engine temps?

[RocketcarX]

Remove the entire bumper and test drive it, I have a feeling it will still overheat.

 

[06monera96]

don't go by any OBD2 setting lol
Our car runs cruise anywhere between 190 to 200 and 210-220 on idle
IAT on my m90 is around 136 idle or 110-120 cruising (100 on a good day)
I also have the roush 9 bar, fluidyne 3 pass heat exchanger, svt upgraded ex-pump.
05 GT , stock thermostat
I also have my low speed fan to kick in at 195 and high speed at 210

 

[1950StangJump$]

don't go by any OBD2 setting lol
Our car runs cruise anywhere between 190 to 200 and 210-220 on idle
IAT on my m90 is around 136 idle or 110-120 cruising (100 on a good day)
I also have the roush 9 bar, fluidyne 3 pass heat exchanger, svt upgraded ex-pump.
05 GT , stock thermostat
I also have my low speed fan to kick in at 195 and high speed at 210

What ambient temps and how much boost leaves you with IATs of 136 idle and 110-120 cruising? I just installed a gauge to read IATs, and I'm trying to learn what's "normal" and what is not.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

Just curious if the OP has a vacuum boost gauge or just a boost gauge if any gauge at all to monitor vacuum/boost conditions. A vac/boost gauge allows you to see a whole lot more that is going on in the engine. Plus it is a nice thing to have if you start having problems and know the normal vacuum the car makes at idle. Makes chasing down vacuum leaks or eliminating vacuum as a culprit if an engine issue arises.

 

[JJ427R]

Just curious if the OP has a vacuum boost gauge or just a boost gauge if any gauge at all to monitor vacuum/boost conditions. A vac/boost gauge allows you to see a whole lot more that is going on in the engine. Plus it is a nice thing to have if you start having problems and know the normal vacuum the car makes at idle. Makes chasing down vacuum leaks or eliminating vacuum as a culprit if an engine issue arises.

I have the Roush vent pod boost gauge.

 

[Pentalab]

don't go by any OBD2 setting lol
Our car runs cruise anywhere between 190 to 200 and 210-220 on idle
IAT on my m90 is around 136 idle or 110-120 cruising (100 on a good day)
I also have the roush 9 bar, fluidyne 3 pass heat exchanger, svt upgraded ex-pump.
05 GT , stock thermostat
I also have my low speed fan to kick in at 195 and high speed at 210

What does your IAT's do when you mash the gas pedal on the HWY ?? My M90 drops from aprx 120 F..... down to a bit over 100 F.... with blower on.

 

[Mojo88]

How did you manage to get 23 psi ? The oem Hammer was like 14.5 psi. Did you use a smaller blower pulley / and or a bigger diam crank pulley ? Did you retain the oem airbox, or go to a cone style cai? Did you retain the oem twin 60mm tb... or use the bigger FRPP twin 65.... or VMP twin 67 ? That 2010 hammer was a beast. Sleeper car. Most made aprx 518-525 rwhp... in oem roush format.

Crank pulley setup is a real oddball, and I don't believe there is any alternative to the stock lower pulley. In fact, it's no longer even available (which is scary) even though the car is only a 2010. So the boost was upped by installing smaller Metco upper quick-change pulley. I bought the car last year and immediately had it tuned for an 'emission' tune and it peaked the dyno's boost readout at 25.6psi. So I went one size larger on the pulley to lower it a tad.

Stock airbox is gone. JLT CAI in place (see pic below). Throttle body is the FRPP single-plate Super Cobra Jet, rated for 1,797cfm.

Real fun car. Total sleeper. Thanks

 

[Pentalab]

I have the Roush vent pod boost gauge.

The roush vent pod boost gauge reads from -30 inches of mercury for vac.... then -29, etc, up to 0, then up to + 20 psi for boost. So it is a combo vac- boost gauge. It will show u what norm vac is at idle. It has a small narrow range for the 'zero' point. That's because the zero point can move a bit, depending on atmospheric pressure.

 

[Pentalab]

Crank pulley setup is a real oddball, and I don't believe there is any alternative to the stock lower pulley. In fact, it's no longer even available (which is scary) even though the car is only a 2010. So the boost was upped by installing smaller Metco upper quick-change pulley. I bought the car last year and immediately had it tuned for an 'emission' tune and it peaked the dyno's boost readout at 25.6psi. So I went one size larger on the pulley to lower it a tad.

Stock airbox is gone. JLT CAI in place (see pic below). Throttle body is the FRPP single-plate Super Cobra Jet, rated for 1,797cfm.

Real fun car. Total sleeper. Thanks

I forgot the later roush TVS setups used a dual fead / dual lower crank pulley setup. Are you saying the oem bone stock single crank pulley, like I have on my 2010, is no longer available ? I though roush had discontinued the dual fead setup..and only their single fead was available for the 2.3 TVS. 23 / 25.6 psi still seems like right over the top. My roush vent pod gauge jived with the local dyno shops' boost gauge. They had just temp tapped into one of the lines. Roush also makes a vent pod gauge that goes up to 30 psi. It too gets installed at the far left round vent. You still get air out of it too. It's angles slightly towards the driver. When the dash light dimmer is tweaked, it also tweaks the boost gauge.

 

[JJ427R]

When the dash light dimmer is tweaked, it also tweaks the boost gauge.

I have my interior lighting set to red, so I put a red bulb cover in my pod as well....

 

[Mojo88]

...... Are you saying the oem bone stock single crank pulley, like I have on my 2010, is no longer available ? I though roush had discontinued the dual fead setup..and only their single fead was available for the 2.3 TVS. .

If you have the "Spider" assembly pulley shown in my pic below, then pray you never need to buy a new one. I bought my 'Hammer' last year and the Spider assembly was bad (odd with only 19k miles). Getting it off the car was a horror show. I called Roush for tech tips and they helped me through the removal. There were some stripped threads that caused a lot of aggravation. I originally thought I could repair the assembly, but no joy.

So I called Roush again and asked to order a new one. I was prepared for a shock as I figured it would be EXPENSIVE. However, I was totally blown away when the Roush rep hesitated and then said "we don't have any more of those", so I said 'order me one please', and Roush rep said "they are no longer in stock anywhere and they are no longer being produced". Ugh, at that point I was up the creek without a paddle. The guy was nice, but he had no real solution for my dilemma. I emailed him some pics of the part and asked if he knew anyone who could repair it.

And then I get an unexpected call back from the Roush guy, and he asks for my address. He says he's gonna send me something and surprise me. So I give him my address and he sends me the Spider Assembly shown in the pic below. Yes, it was a used one, but it saved my bacon. And get this, they DIDN'T CHARGE ME ONE CENT! I was (and remain) incredibly impressed with Roush service. Those guys are awesome. I sent them some thank you gifts.

Sorry for long post and hijacking thread a bit, but it is all Roush related, so I thought you guys might be interested.

 

[JJ427R]

Good story, I've had great luck with the Roush support as well, I wish other vendors would get a clue... good customer support is getting hard to come by these days....

One of my first track days I broke a front sway bar bushing and lost all 4 center caps out of my wheels, they shrunk from heat and fell out...
Called Roush and told em exactly what happened, I received all the items free of charge....

plus they paid to have a dealer install the sway bar bushing (was under warranty)

 

[Pentalab]

Per Vorshlag racing, you are supposed to remove all 4 x center caps, when on a road course. If you don't they will melt, sorta like a salvador dali painting. (some of his paintings looked like the object was made from wax, then heated with a blow torch).

On my 2010 ( with roush suspension, including front / rear sway bars), I installed the steeda front sway bar chromolly steel tubes, which attach to the excess thread on the oem roush front sway bar bushing assy. That works good, stiffens up the front end, easy install. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-front-swaybar-mount-brace-555-8113.html

Also installed:
steeda front strut mounts, allows camber to be dialed in. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8120.html I have the camber maxed out at aprx -1.8 degs.

If your oem 3rd link on the differential is trashed, replace it with this. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-spherical-bearing-555-4104.html. I use a BMR adjustable UCA..and mating UCA mount. The UCA mount uses a poly bushing. You can't use a poly at both ends of the UCA. At least one end has to be able to articulate ( twist). If the front end of the UCA is a spherical, the back end can be the steeda spherical from above.... or the HD BMR poly. b

This item I bolted AND welded into place, stiffens rear end a bunch. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-frame-rail-torque-box-brace-555-5551.html One on each side of the car, made from CM. It's sorta like the BMR single tube brace, but with 2 x ecxtra tubes, to form a triangle. Then the bolted in only... BMR ( 1/4" thick steel plate) rear tunnel brace ( + mating nhra DS safety loop) fits like a glove BETWEEN the pair of steeda braces. What u end up with is one homogenous brace from extreme left of car to extreme right of car. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=142&superpro=0

What Ford calls the oem 'A arm brace' on the 2010 actually just ties the back end of the K frame together. The real deal BMR A arm brace actually does tie the A arms together. It sits several inches in front of.. (and parallel to) the oem ford A arm brace. BMR unit sits just aft of the oem eng oil drain plug. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=1&maincatid=22&catid=64 Steeda's version is called a 'g trac'.

Also installed the REAR steeda STB, which HAS to be welded in. Easy install. Slick, cuz it sits just above the carpet, and you still get to lift up rear cover,to get access to spare tire etc. Long boxes etc, simply side on the rear stb ( like with rear seats folded down, to handle a long box etc). RVS threaded on one end, comes with noise free sphericals. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-2005-2014-mustang-rear-shock-tower-brace-555-5750.html

Here is the front steeda STB that fits the M90 / TVS-2300, fits like a glove over any M90 setup on a 2010...like a 2010 427R https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-roush-supercharger-billet-strut-tower-brace-555-5726.html RVS threaded at one end. Slick part is its a snug fit over ALL FOUR strut holes. Most other front stbs only use the inboard pair of holes, and typ use slotted holes. There is only typ 26 ft lbs of tq on those studs..and they can slip/slide in the slotted holes of the typ STB. The steeda version can't budge. The overall length of the front stb can be adjusted, for a precise fit. Sphericals on each end. Also, either end can be removed, and swung up out of the way, like when I swapped to the bigger TB / swapping oem plugs for brisk plugs etc. ). Pix don't do it justice, its a very nice machined piece..and works good with the steeda front strut mounts.

This is the other steeda front stb that will fit over a M90 / TVS-2300..and is the one I use myself, it has a double offset. It will fit a 2010 which comes with the 'power dome hood'. Buddy on the roush forum put his light + go pro camera inside the eng bay. so we could see the clearances. STB clears blower, also clears hood. I informed steeda these 2 x stbs will clear the M90 and hood easily. Then they started flying off the shelves. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-whipple-billet-strut-tower-brace-555-5725.html Same deal, adjustable length, rvs threaded on one end, sphericals.

Ok, with one brace over the eng..and 4 x braces below the eng, it's solid. With the rear shock brace welded in, + BMR tunnel brace bolted in..and the pair of triangular steeda CM braces bolted and welded on either side, back end is solidified. It's an overall excellent set of stiffening mods. I drive my buddy's stang..which doesn't have any of this..and the difference is readily apparent. I use his car as a base reference..as I added suspension mods.

I replaced the oem DS with the DSS-DS, which is a 900 hp rated one piece, 3.5" aluminum DS. Uses a CV joint at back end. The weight saved, came back with the added bracing, so it comes out a wash, but that's a moot point. Other mods were the Eaton tru-trac LSD, http://www.vmpperformance.com/Eaton-31-Spline-TrueTrac-Differential-for-05-14-8-p/dts-913a561.htm and also a whiteline watts link. https://www.americanmuscle.com/whiteline-wattslink-0510.html The watts link was a big improvement over my previous adjustable BMR PHB. Back end of car no longer flails side to side as the suspension goes up /down. The oem PHB is useless, has to be replaced anyway, once car is lowered. (axle needs to be centered). All my BMR items are RED ( u can also get em in black). Sri for diatribe, but since we have the same car, and you track race your's, a lot of the above will be applicable.

 

[01yellerCobra]

If you have the "Spider" assembly pulley shown in my pic below, then pray you never need to buy a new one. I bought my 'Hammer' last year and the Spider assembly was bad (odd with only 19k miles). Getting it off the car was a horror show. I called Roush for tech tips and they helped me through the removal. There were some stripped threads that caused a lot of aggravation. I originally thought I could repair the assembly, but no joy.

So I called Roush again and asked to order a new one. I was prepared for a shock as I figured it would be EXPENSIVE. However, I was totally blown away when the Roush rep hesitated and then said "we don't have any more of those", so I said 'order me one please', and Roush rep said "they are no longer in stock anywhere and they are no longer being produced". Ugh, at that point I was up the creek without a paddle. The guy was nice, but he had no real solution for my dilemma. I emailed him some pics of the part and asked if he knew anyone who could repair it.

And then I get an unexpected call back from the Roush guy, and he asks for my address. He says he's gonna send me something and surprise me. So I give him my address and he sends me the Spider Assembly shown in the pic below. Yes, it was a used one, but it saved my bacon. And get this, they DIDN'T CHARGE ME ONE CENT! I was (and remain) incredibly impressed with Roush service. Those guys are awesome. I sent them some thank you gifts.

Sorry for long post and hijacking thread a bit, but it is all Roush related, so I thought you guys might be interested.

You wouldn't happen to still have your old one would you? That looks awfully similar to the lower on my 04 Cobra.

 

[JJ427R]

Per Vorshlag racing, you are supposed to remove all 4 x center caps, when on a road course. If you don't they will melt, sorta like a salvador dali painting. (some of his paintings looked like the object was made from wax, then heated with a blow torch).

I always do remove them now, once was enough.... Amazing how many cars I see at the track with them and they don't loose em', now I always tell guys to take em' out...

You've done more to your car than I care too, my driving ability does not call for that yet.... Only other suspension/driveline mods I have are Kenny Brown Matrix Brace and Jacking rails.

Here's a video of me at BIR last fall....

 

[Pentalab]

I always do remove them now, once was enough.... Amazing how many cars I see at the track with them and they don't loose em', now I always tell guys to take em' out...

You've done more to your car than I care too, my driving ability does not call for that yet.... Only other suspension/driveline mods I have are Kenny Brown Matrix Brace and Jacking rails.

Here's a video of me at BIR last fall....

Excellent video, hats off to you. My various suspension mods were more of an ongoing experiment than anything else. I bought the various bits over a 2-3 year period, waiting for stuff to come on sale if possible. Then installing it in groups where it makes sense. IE: tru-trac / watts link installed at the same time. The steeda strut mounts with the adjustable camber work superb, problem was... had to take it all apart, to get the old oem ones out, which required removal of roush struts + springs, then install steeda strut mount, put back in the roush springs / struts..then do yet another wheel alignment, etc. I wish I knew back then, what I know now. I could have saved a lot of time. I spent most of my time trying to separate wheat from chaff. I bought the car 3rd hand, so the mods were...'affordable'.
IF you want a stiffer front + rear end, the mods actually work. Problem is, you have to do all of em to see the net benefit. 4 braces on the back end..and 5 on the front end will work, but just 1 on the rear and 1 on the front results in minimal gains..and mixed results. I drive my buddy's car, and his + mine are like apples + oranges. So the experiment worked, albeit was a lot of $$ + effort + time.

 

[JJ427R]

Update on cooling: removed the Mishimoto Trans cooler I had and replaced with B&M racing 20,500 btu, along with the factory cooler. We were also able to get the 2 plastic shrouds on each side of the radiator cut to fit "partially" back in. Installed Roush 7 Bar upper grille. Have not had a chance to really test it but drove it just a bit today, 75 and humid here today, trans temp did not go over 150, engine temp was still up at about 200. Road America in a few weeks will be the true test if it works....

 

[Pentalab]

Update on cooling: removed the Mishimoto Trans cooler I had and replaced with B&M racing 20,500 btu, along with the factory cooler. We were also able to get the 2 plastic shrouds on each side of the radiator cut to fit "partially" back in. Installed Roush 7 Bar upper grille. Have not had a chance to really test it but drove it just a bit today, 75 and humid here today, trans temp did not go over 150, engine temp was still up at about 200. Road America in a few weeks will be the true test if it works....

This should prove interesting. I'm looking forward to your results. Even with the 2 x plastic shrouds partially back in, at least with the 7 bar grille, it will get more air into the upper grille opening.

That 20.5 k btu tranny cooler is bigger than mine. And with your new one in series with the oem cooler... + 7 bar grille, I'm predicting your auto tranny temp issues will be a thing of the past.

I discovered that my boost increased by 1/2 psi after the 7 bar grille was installed. (cruising @ 50 mph on local hwy..... then mash it.) Mine went from 5.8 psi..up to 6.3 psi. Buddy in Wis, he has the smaller 2.49" pulley on his M90 (his car is also a 2010 automatic) . His boost is higher than mine cuz of the smaller pulley of course. He installed the 7 bar grille, and he tells me his boost also increased by 1/2 psi. With the 7 bar grille installed, you can now clearly see the 'snorkel' that feeds air into the cai...way over on the driver's side.

So take note, while testing, of eng temps, tranny temps, boost, etc, etc.

I was reading Vorshlag racing's latest blog (here on S197)... and they have experimented with Motul 5W-50, 100% synthetic (ester based) eng oil..with great results on their various other cars, bmw, etc, etc....and eng oil temps dropped 30 deg F... which is a bunch. They are going to try the same oil in their new S-550 car.

I stopped using Ford motorcraft oem 5W-20, since it's semi synthetic ( typ 2-5% synthetic and 95-98% dino oil). Replaced with Royal Purple 100% synthetic 5W-30 HPS. Also switched to FRPP oil filters. Doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes. I did note that from the low line ( small hole) to upper hole on the dipstick..is exactly 400 ml... or just under 1/2 qt. Also installed a JLT catch can on drivers side. Without it, you end up with eng oil all over the intercooler....and it also pools up in the manifold... oil also ends up inside the blower elbow..which is where the problem actually starts.. then also oil all over the rotor pack. Ends up a real mess, and also lowers the octane rating of your fuel.

Funny thing is, I installed the catch can years ago..and it collected quite a bit of crap. Like 2/3 full every few months of casual use. What pours out of the catch can looks like a chocolate milkshake. It's a mixture of unburnt fuel, eng oil, and lotsa condensation. That was when using oem motorcraft 5W-20 semi synthetic eng oil. After I switched to RP 5W-30 HPS, what is collected in the catch can looks like RP eng oil, no more choc shake ! And hardly any oil collected, just a bit in the bottom of the catch can. Other's on the roush forum noticed the same results when switching to any brand of 100% synthetic eng oil..go figure. I can't measure eng oil temps, so have no data as to whether eng oil temps drop or not...or if they do drop, by how much. Typ 100% synthetic is good for > 300 deg F. Semi synthetic is toast by 250 Deg F.

 

[JJ427R]

Just got back from a little cruise, a little cooler temps here today at about 70* my engine temp did not go over 190* usually stayed about 180, which is great, trans temp stayed at 150. Can't believe how those couple changes we did lowered the temp. My mechanic was quite surprised as well. He didn't think it would make that big of a change.

I will look at boost to see if increase next time I drive it and can get on it. I have a 2.49 pulley and is normally about 9lbs.

I use Valvoline 5-30 full synthetic, it's what it came with from Roush. I've been a faithful Valvoline user for 50+ years, never had an engine parts issue ever and vehicles with over 300,000 miles, so I'm hesitant to try anything else. I try to always use Fram filters. I am however considering switching to waterless coolant.

I don't have a catch can, could never find one to fit my car, nobody makes one for the 2010 with a M90. I 've got 50,000+ miles and never had an issue without it. Puffs out a little cloud of blue smoke once and a while when I start it, but it's never fouled my plugs or anything. Don't have any of the issues you described. At this point don't know why I'd need one.

If I need to boost my octane, say for a track day, I add this to get me between 93-95 ocatane.

http://race-gas.com/

 

[06monera96]

M90 @ 8lbs of boost.
94 fuel
20.5 degree of timing at the end of the spark table
making 438/438tq
Idle is 120-130 in traffic
Cruising 100-120
If I smash the gas it drops a good 20degreeF especially when I do a full 3rd 4th gear pull.
Local folks have seen my live stream XD I go pretty hard beat me how the car still run mint after 2 year, oil changes and only changing the spark plugs early (50k on them)