6R80 in my 05

JST4FN

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I was only able to get a couple roll on 2-3 shifts this morning. Both times it did not flare but I'm only on 8 psi right now though (somewhere around 700hp). My WOT shift **firmness**is 130 something going off of memory. Where are you guys at?
 
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429244

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I usually do wear a jacket/gloves when using the bottle but was only shooting a little 75shot ... I'll start working toward the 250shot I was hitting the T56 with now that I've sorted a couple other issues out I had with the controller.

I hope you guys talking to Karl get better results than I did, I called him to ask about a 1/2 sec dead spot when launching [which killed my 60'] and a couple other issues I was getting when I 1st tracked the 6R. I've made several changes trying to help the 2/3 flare but nothing has made any difference so far.

I figured out the dead spot was from having the torque converter locked in ALL GEARS when WOT. That setting is under the TCC setup. Changing it to 2nd-6th only WOT I went from a 1.7 60' to 1.49. I've also got a fairly tight converter as it starts pushing thru the tires footbraking at 2600rpm ,, but it does light off like a rattlesnake after releasing the brakes.

I'm still running Hoosier slicks ,, I need to get a set of drag radials and if I can get them to hook I can see cutting 1,3xx 60's with a healthy shot.

As far a fixing flare issues, I know the 6R solenoids are flow matched when the tranny is built and Ford warns you are supposed to run a shift strategy that matches the solenoid strategy or transmission damage will occur, so this needs to be corrected...


.

The eighth mile track where I race wants a jacket at 7.49. I am pretty sure they check for transmission blanket at 6.99.
As for talking to Karl, I emailed him Tuesday. I still don't have a response.
I have my TCC lock in 2-6th as well. I was going to try 3-6th but ran out of time. My stock converter only allows me to leave at about 1500.
As for shift solenoids, I thought 2013 transmissions had the latest solenoids. I wonder if that matters for Quick 6. When you order the Quick 6, you are told only to get a 2011 or newer transmission. There is no mention of updating the solenoids or lead frame. I wonder if it learns the different solenoids?

I was only able to get a couple roll on 2-3 shifts this morning. Both times it did not flare but I'm only on 8 psi right now though (somewhere around 700hp). My WOT shift pressure is 130 something going off of memory. Where are you guys at?

WOT = 197 psi
40% = 180 psi
20% = 134 psi
I have not changed these settings. They are part of the Firm Shift shiftware.
 

JST4FN

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WOT = 197 psi
40% = 180 psi
20% = 134 psi
I have not changed these settings. They are part of the Firm Shift shiftware.

Sorry I was referring to the shift firmness in my earlier post not the line pressure. My line pressure is the same as above.

Thanks Mike
 

El_Chemo

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Hows it going guys. Ive been following this thread for months now and finally decided to join the forum although I don't have a s197. I have a 88 gt and 00 Lightning.

Anyways, I'm gathering parts for a 6r80 swap for my Lightning. Seems like all I need now is a custom driveshaft and the tcu and a cooler.

Just wondering what trans cooler are you guys using? Will I be fine using a stock 13/14 f150 trans cooler? Or should I buy the expensive $500 kit that PBH(?) Has? I've read that the 6r80 has some kind of thermostat that opens up at 195, is this true? Thanks in advanced guys
 

jodadejss06gt

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I think the thermostat is 175* IIRC. I have the PBH adapter to the trans that gives you AN fittings off of it. I have these running to a B&M supercooler mounted under my spare tire area. To buy the lines and cooler brand new off a mustang are a few hundred I believe. If PBH makes a 500 kit that gives you a whole trans cooling system, I'd do that. I spent more than 500 for cooler, brackets, lines, and fittings.
 

El_Chemo

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I think the thermostat is 175* IIRC. I have the PBH adapter to the trans that gives you AN fittings off of it. I have these running to a B&M supercooler mounted under my spare tire area. To buy the lines and cooler brand new off a mustang are a few hundred I believe. If PBH makes a 500 kit that gives you a whole trans cooling system, I'd do that. I spent more than 500 for cooler, brackets, lines, and fittings.

Right on. Thanks for the reply.

Well the thing with the cooler kit from PBH is that they don't include the adapter for the an fittings. So that's another 130 to add to the 500. I thought it might be cheaper to just buy the adapter from PBH and run my own lines to a oem 13/14 f150 trans cooler. Besides the an adapter, I don't think ill need anything special.

I thought of running the superduty cooler for the 6.7 (I believe or 6.0 diesel) but I dont know if it will be too big of a cooler for the trans.
 

sportinawoody

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Any of you have any resource of good information on what these transmissions like as far as line pressures, tcc controls and whatnot for different HP levels off and on wot?
 
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jodadejss06gt

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NOTICE!!!!!
There is a new version of the software up on the website. This incorporates new power levels for the trans and tailors pressures based on that. It is actually a step above what Karl had given me a few weeks back(based on what he told me in an email). I have yet to load it in my car yet.



I've been interested in the above. I wonder if you threw a tuner like Lund a few bucks they'd help come up with a really good calibration for the trans.
 

sportinawoody

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I just confirmed that there is no difference in pressures or firmness settings comparing v5.13 to v5.13a street firm 6000 and other than the power level option I see no changes to the baseline tune file. it is possible to open 2 simultaneous shiftware windows to compare. so what did 5.13a really do is what I'm getting at because I cant see what they advertised so far. maybe you guys caught something I missed hopefully
 
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jodadejss06gt

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The only difference I am noticing is in the settings where you can select your transmission, 6r80, you can choose between power levels. Not sure exactly that changes based on your choice. Under 450hp, 450-750hp, and then over 750hp
 

Sonny08GT

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Right on. Thanks for the reply.

Well the thing with the cooler kit from PBH is that they don't include the adapter for the an fittings. So that's another 130 to add to the 500. I thought it might be cheaper to just buy the adapter from PBH and run my own lines to a oem 13/14 f150 trans cooler. Besides the an adapter, I don't think ill need anything special.

I thought of running the superduty cooler for the 6.7 (I believe or 6.0 diesel) but I dont know if it will be too big of a cooler for the trans.

I used the Performance Automatic cooler kit from Summit #PA68506 it’s on sale now for $355 so far working great on my 08 Mustang
 

El_Chemo

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I used the Performance Automatic cooler kit from Summit #PA68506 it’s on sale now for $355 so far working great on my 08 Mustang
I ended up buying an oem trans cooler from a 2014 f150 through the dealership (dirt cheap) and ss braided hose and -an fittings from summit racing. All I need is the cooler line adapter from power by the hour. Getting that next week.

On a side note, just installed the 6r80 in my Lightning today. Getting closer every week to get it running
 

El_Chemo

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Ive got a question. I bought a floor shifter from a 2014 f150 with the intentions of retrofitting it and using the select shift manual mode and what not but it seems like it won't work as it ties in with the dash harness and then into the stock 5.0 pcm. Anyone have any suggestions as to what floor shifter I might be able to use from ford? Maybe from a s197 mustang? I don't recall reading anything on this but is the shift quick allowing us to do manual shifting? Thanks

Nevermind. I just went through the instructions manual on the shift quick and saw I can probably use it. Going to have email us shift on more info
 
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jodadejss06gt

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I just purchased a used 13-14 GT shifter for the select shift feature. I love the feature and it is very responsive. I used an f150 trans and but a mustang shifter. I had to purchase a mustang lever arm on the side of the trans(the piece that the cable hooks to). I initially flipped the f150 lever 180* but the ratio of pull with the GT shifter isn't the same. I found the correct one through Ford for $8. Works perfectly now.

F150 lever on left, mustang and part number on Right. shift lever.jpg
 

El_Chemo

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I just purchased a used 13-14 GT shifter for the select shift feature. I love the feature and it is very responsive. I used an f150 trans and but a mustang shifter. I had to purchase a mustang lever arm on the side of the trans(the piece that the cable hooks to). I initially flipped the f150 lever 180* but the ratio of pull with the GT shifter isn't the same. I found the correct one through Ford for $8. Works perfectly now.

F150 lever on left, mustang and part number on Right. View attachment 66038

Thanks for the info! Do you think I'd be better off with the gt shifter? I prefer the look of the f150 shifter but the f150 shifter has a manual mode and 1 and 2 gear. I think they would both be the same electronically and maybe I can just swap the shifter shaft to keep the f150's look. Time to experiment. Thanks
 
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jodadejss06gt

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I'd stay f150 if you like the looks and it works. All you need is to intercept the +/- button on the shifter to function the light blue and dark blue wires on quick 6. Nothing else goes to the controller from the shifter. Like I mentioned, the throw of the shifter is going to be off if you use GT shifter with f150 arm.
 

El_Chemo

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I'd stay f150 if you like the looks and it works. All you need is to intercept the +/- button on the shifter to function the light blue and dark blue wires on quick 6. Nothing else goes to the controller from the shifter. Like I mentioned, the throw of the shifter is going to be off if you use GT shifter with f150 arm.

Thank you a lot for your help.
Another question, sorry. How did you get your shifter to release so you can shift into drive or reverse from park? I looked everywhere possible last night for a wiring diagram but came up empty. I already saw which wires go to the lights, +/- button, and the od. Still Need to figure out what the remaning wires do or what theyre for. Thanks again
 

jodadejss06gt

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Great question....I believe 05 stroker posted an output diagram of the shifter a few pages back and which wire he wired everything to. During my wiring I wasn't able to figure that part out. I think it may have been a combination of me not having the car keyed on or something, but I ended up wiring the latch/release to the brake pedal. Every time I press the brake it fires that solenoid. Hopefully it never gives up the ghost. I know it isn't the best way but I was pressed for time and that is the way I chose.

so right now the car doesn't need to be on to get out of gear. Same as if it were a manual so I didn't see too much of an issue with it.
 

El_Chemo

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Great question....I believe 05 stroker posted an output diagram of the shifter a few pages back and which wire he wired everything to. During my wiring I wasn't able to figure that part out. I think it may have been a combination of me not having the car keyed on or something, but I ended up wiring the latch/release to the brake pedal. Every time I press the brake it fires that solenoid. Hopefully it never gives up the ghost. I know it isn't the best way but I was pressed for time and that is the way I chose.

so right now the car doesn't need to be on to get out of gear. Same as if it were a manual so I didn't see too much of an issue with it.

I see. My 88 gt is the same. Ill try to look up some diagrams of my truck to see which wires I need so it can only shift when the ignition is open and the brake pedal pressed as well. Thank you sir. I'm getting very anxious to finish this project
 

jodadejss06gt

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Yea I'm sure there is another wire on the shifter hook up harness that gives the proper voltage when those conditions are met, I just didn't do the right combination of things to find it.
 

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