Another "sneaky" coolant leak thread

Blue03Cobra

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2024
Posts
297
Reaction score
464
Location
Baton Rouge, La.
Tried to do the front-side (remove the TB and Alternator) repair, but was unsuccessful, so pulled the intake off and replaced the cracked elbow. Other forums (and posts) describe the slow leak and associated "gym sock smell", proved to be the diagnosis on my 2008. See the pics, as the engineers were nice enough to put a hole in the head cover, so the pathetically designed plastic elbow that would eventually crack and leak, to drain down the back of the engine. Many days, it didn't leak enough to even leave a spot, under the car, but would evaporate, before dripping. The smell was always there, however. I saw several videos, where owners used heater hose to circumvent the elbow, but they were all strangely bent and I went with the Motorcraft KT-92 replacement part and hose clamp as the fix. Hopefully, it'll last another 116K and/or 17 years ,before cracking/leaking again...

1000010939.jpg

1000010938.jpg

1000010937.jpg

1000010936.jpg

1000010934.jpg
 

Juanobe

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2026
Posts
2
Reaction score
4
Location
Washington
@Blue03Cobra It's been a while since you did this, , how is this holding up? I did this fix but found that I have to go in and replace the white plastic bit every 1-1.5 years (maybe 10,000 miles). I'm looking for a better solution, I've only found the L hose option, I suppose I'll try that.
 

Kev555

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
374
Reaction score
170
Location
Ireland
@Blue03Cobra It's been a while since you did this, , how is this holding up? I did this fix but found that I have to go in and replace the white plastic bit every 1-1.5 years (maybe 10,000 miles). I'm looking for a better solution, I've only found the L hose option, I suppose I'll try that.

IMG_20250322_151201652_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250322_113513105_HDR.jpg

IMG_20250322_104414283_HDR.jpg
If you go to a hose supplier they should have lengths of right size of hose with 90 degree angle. do away with those plastic fittings completely
 

Blue03Cobra

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2024
Posts
297
Reaction score
464
Location
Baton Rouge, La.
No leaks on mine, since the fix. It was leaking from the compression fitting on the original plastic elbow...methinks the hose clamp is better. If you're willing to cut both ends and then flaring the pipes, I agree that a zero plastic replacement is probably better, but so far, so good for me.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM

FYI......................

There does exist a metal aftermarket replacement version of this plastic hot side heater hose connector for our 05-10 S197's................made by Dorman Products. Designed to meet\exceed OEM specs...........

The fact that this part is made of the same metal alloy as the engine's crossover pipe is a BIG plus IMHO.

The piece I'm gonna get as I'm suspecting that mine is starting to leak..........been noticing my coolant level won't stay between the lines over a period of time..........never drops below 1\2" below the lower cold fill line but also can't see\smell any evidence of coolant leaking anywhere.......yet. Have already replaced the surge tank filler cap (17 yr old original......) 1st due to me finding evidence last summer of coolant coming out under the cap (from system pressure relief....) after datalogging w\ WOT hits........stopped that 1 but am suspecting this area off the crossover pipe (also the 17-yr old original part........) is next.

Posted for informational purposes..............
 

Kev555

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
374
Reaction score
170
Location
Ireland
No leaks on mine, since the fix. It was leaking from the compression fitting on the original plastic elbow...methinks the hose clamp is better. If you're willing to cut both ends and then flaring the pipes, I agree that a zero plastic replacement is probably better, but so far, so good for me.
Them plastic quick connectors are ok for a long time usually but start to leak with a combination of age and heat making them brittle. There's a bit of a flare on the pipe the plastic elbow clips onto but none on the cut bit. The cut pipe on the opposite end is strong enough to support a jubilee clip good and tight and doesn't need flaring in my opinion.
 

Kev555

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
374
Reaction score
170
Location
Ireland

FYI......................

There does exist a metal aftermarket replacement version of this plastic hot side heater hose connector for our 05-10 S197's................made by Dorman Products. Designed to meet\exceed OEM specs...........

The fact that this part is made of the same metal alloy as the engine's crossover pipe is a BIG plus IMHO.

The piece I'm gonna get as I'm suspecting that mine is starting to leak..........been noticing my coolant level won't stay between the lines over a period of time..........never drops below 1\2" below the lower cold fill line but also can't see\smell any evidence of coolant leaking anywhere.......yet. Have already replaced the surge tank filler cap (17 yr old original......) 1st due to me finding evidence last summer of coolant coming out under the cap (from system pressure relief....) after datalogging w\ WOT hits........stopped that 1 but am suspecting this area off the crossover pipe (also the 17-yr old original part........) is next.

Posted for informational purposes..............
If its only a small leak it will run down the back of the engine and off the bell housing at the flywheel usually. Mine only leaked after I parked it but not when running for some reason
 

Blue03Cobra

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2024
Posts
297
Reaction score
464
Location
Baton Rouge, La.
If its only a small leak it will run down the back of the engine and off the bell housing at the flywheel usually. Mine only leaked after I parked it but not when running for some reason
My experience exactly. I first suspected something due to the "wet gym socks" smell, coming from the engine bay. Probably only leaked when parked, due to being burned off/evaporated while running.
 

ghunt81

New parts on old junk!
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Posts
1,193
Reaction score
274
Location
Clarksburg, WV
Hey just curious but what size is the hose where it attaches to the plastic elbow?
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM
been noticing my coolant level won't stay between the lines over a period of time..........never drops below 1\2" below the lower cold fill line but also can't see\smell any evidence of coolant leaking anywhere.......yet. Have already replaced the surge tank filler cap (17 yr old original......) 1st due to me finding evidence last summer of coolant coming out under the cap (from system pressure relief....) after datalogging w\ WOT hits........stopped that 1 but am suspecting this area off the crossover pipe (also the 17-yr old original part........) is next.
Thought about this some more since last post, so I got my LED mechanic flashlight & popped hood this morning & set light up in flashlight mode (end LED lit only) & stuck it thru the gap on B1 side of IM between alternator & IM CMCV section to light up the valley area & found my verification\evidence of the leak.........saw a quarter-sized puddle of anti-freeze sitting in valley right under where this crossover connection would be located & no evidence of any anti-freeze running across valley to back of block thus this leak is in it's very early stages of failure..........most likely coming out during engine cool down cycle after shut off in very small drips........the exact same way my Mishimoto aluminum radiator's tank leaks showed up after 4+ yrs of service........no leaking showed up (slow drips) until engine shut off during cool down cycle of engine\cooling system then would quit after system cooled down enough to adequately relieve system pressure.

System was telling me that a leak was present..........just needed to follow up & do the necessary checks to find it.

Already have all the necessary parts on hand to fix this thus now is only a matter of when I want to do it.........but now am thinking about going further & replace both of the plastic heater hose connectors attached to the heater core at firewall as well "while I'm in there" (from all I can see, they are this same design--3\4" x 3\4"--as the 1 off the crossover) so this can be put fully to rest going forward.

Was taught to always try to be proactive instead of reactive....................so will be picking up 2 more of these metal connectors soon.
 

Samos3

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2022
Posts
651
Reaction score
420
Location
St. Louis
Absolutely, definitely replace those plastic connectors. Time and heat cycling really does a number on them.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM
Already have all the necessary parts on hand to fix this thus now is only a matter of when I want to do it.........but now am thinking about going further & replace both of the plastic heater hose connectors attached to the heater core at firewall as well "while I'm in there" (from all I can see, they are this same design--3\4" x 3\4"--as the 1 off the crossover) so this can be put fully to rest going forward.
FYI for those so interested........................

Just checked on all this so here's the part#'s for what you'll need to replace all 3 of the plastic heater hose connectors w\ Ford specific OE designed metal versions:
Dorman 800-418HP--2 for 3\4" x 3\4" hot side heater hose (crossover & heater core inlet side)
Dorman 800-416HP--1 for 5\8" x 5\8" cold side heater hose (heater core outlet return side)

Got 1 800-418HP (already have 1 in hand) & 1 800-416HP heater hose connector on order thru Amazon.........should have them tomorrow.
 

JC SSP

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Posts
2,283
Reaction score
1,353
Location
FL
Please post pics and any install tips when you can… this would be a good info for future.
 

ghunt81

New parts on old junk!
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Posts
1,193
Reaction score
274
Location
Clarksburg, WV
With those Dorman elbows, do you just plumb with regular heater hose? I haven't been into mine yet, and trying to look at some of the diagrams online is very confusing.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM
Got 1 800-418HP (already have 1 in hand) & 1 800-416HP heater hose connector on order thru Amazon.........should have them tomorrow.

Please post pics and any install tips when you can… this would be a good info for future.

Got the parts this afternoon thus I started the 1st part of this upcoming job by removing the 2 plastic connectors from a spare set of 05-10 GT S197 heater core side heater hoses I'd bought used off a low mileage part out on EBay some 5 yrs ago (as I said in prior post, being proactive instead of reactive........FYI, also have the entire setup in hand as well as a spare if the need came to replacing the whole thing..........so I was already prepared for this exact scenario...........recently discovered the metal version connectors which redirected my preplanned repair process........).

Removing the crimp clamps is fairly easy if you have a Dremel w\ a cutter wheel.........just slowly cut across the crimp clamp using 1 of the crimp risers (farthest away from the heater hose underneath.......) until you just start to see that you're starting to cut thru, then use a sharp chisel w\ hammer to finish the split & spread it open to release the tension & pull the connector out w\o damaging the hose underneath.

Then install the new metal connectors & use the clamp of your choice..............I choose to use properly sized 30 psi constant tension band spring clamps rated for radiator\heater service......like the OEM's use...........all accessible on Amazon.

Pictures provided below.................

Will be using the same removal\reinstall process at the 3\4" hot side crossover end once I remove the IM to get it out of the way.............the firewall end is easy..........simply just remove the old hoses & install the newly modified ones..........if the old hoses still check out to be good, will then pick up 3 more metal connectors & convert them for spares & build a new 3\4" crossover section to have on hand for a spare as well........so going forward it'll be very easy to R&R the crossover section w\ the IM still installed...........even though they'll most likely not be needed.

Then, if the parts aren't too brittle, will salvage the white latch clips from the old plastic connectors to have on hand for spares as well. Also have a new CHT sensor on hand to replace the old sensor as well while I have the IM off to finish this up (have noted when running several Forscan KOEO sensor self-checks that the 17 yr old original CHT sensor keeps setting off a low-current pending fault code thus had already picked up a new FoMoCo replacement CHT sensor for whenever I had to remove this IM again.........another 1 of those "while you're in there" things...........).

Now it's only a matter of when I decide to do this...........again to be proactive & resolve all this up front before it strands me or cause further unnecessary engine damage.

With those Dorman elbows, do you just plumb with regular heater hose? I haven't been into mine yet, and trying to look at some of the diagrams online is very confusing.
Yeah, you can use std bulk 3\4" ID heater hose for the hot side, std bulk 5\8" ID heater hose for the cold side if you desire to replace all of the hose sections........or, if your existing formed heater hose sections are still in good condition--still pliable & w\o any signs of cracking, IMHO, just replace the connectors & call it a day. IMHO, I wouldn't replace the metal sections unless they actually fail.........if this metal section ain't broke, don't fix it. I've yet to find a post showing the hoses\metal tubing sections actually failing.......only the plastic connectors.........mostly the 1 at the crossover but have seen videos of where 1 of the plastic heater core connectors failed during a dyno WOT pull.

Up to you as to which direction you decide to take.

Hope this helps.

IMG_1460A.JPG

IMG_1461A.JPG

IMG_1462A.JPG
 

ghunt81

New parts on old junk!
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Posts
1,193
Reaction score
274
Location
Clarksburg, WV
Yes that does help. I was wanting to know what size the line under the intake manifold was anyway. Trying to rig up an Explorer crossover to work and I will have to put an elbow and nipple on it.
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM
Got the parts this afternoon thus I started the 1st part of this upcoming job by removing the 2 plastic connectors from a spare set of 05-10 GT S197 heater core side heater hoses I'd bought used off a low mileage part out on EBay some 5 yrs ago (as I said in prior post, being proactive instead of reactive........FYI, also have the entire setup in hand as well as a spare if the need came to replacing the whole thing..........so I was already prepared for this exact scenario...........recently discovered the metal version connectors which redirected my preplanned repair process........).

Removing the crimp clamps is fairly easy if you have a Dremel w\ a cutter wheel.........just slowly cut across the crimp clamp using 1 of the crimp risers (farthest away from the heater hose underneath.......) until you just start to see that you're starting to cut thru, then use a sharp chisel w\ hammer to finish the split & spread it open to release the tension & pull the connector out w\o damaging the hose underneath.

Then install the new metal connectors & use the clamp of your choice..............I choose to use properly sized 30 psi constant tension band spring clamps rated for radiator\heater service......like the OEM's use...........all accessible on Amazon.

Pictures provided below.................

Will be using the same removal\reinstall process at the 3\4" hot side crossover end once I remove the IM to get it out of the way.............the firewall end is easy..........simply just remove the old hoses & install the newly modified ones..........if the old hoses still check out to be good, will then pick up 3 more metal connectors & convert them for spares & build a new 3\4" crossover section to have on hand for a spare as well........so going forward it'll be very easy to R&R the crossover section w\ the IM still installed...........even though they'll most likely not be needed.

Then, if the parts aren't too brittle, will salvage the white latch clips from the old plastic connectors to have on hand for spares as well. Also have a new CHT sensor on hand to replace the old sensor as well while I have the IM off to finish this up (have noted when running several Forscan KOEO sensor self-checks that the 17 yr old original CHT sensor keeps setting off a low-current pending fault code thus had already picked up a new FoMoCo replacement CHT sensor for whenever I had to remove this IM again.........another 1 of those "while you're in there" things...........).

Now it's only a matter of when I decide to do this...........again to be proactive & resolve all this up front before it strands me or cause further unnecessary engine damage.


Yeah, you can use std bulk 3\4" ID heater hose for the hot side, std bulk 5\8" ID heater hose for the cold side if you desire to replace all of the hose sections........or, if your existing formed heater hose sections are still in good condition--still pliable & w\o any signs of cracking, IMHO, just replace the connectors & call it a day. IMHO, I wouldn't replace the metal sections unless they actually fail.........if this metal section ain't broke, don't fix it. I've yet to find a post showing the hoses\metal tubing sections actually failing.......only the plastic connectors.........mostly the 1 at the crossover but have seen videos of where 1 of the plastic heater core connectors failed during a dyno WOT pull.

Up to you as to which direction you decide to take.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 114696

View attachment 114697

View attachment 114698
Read here for final installation: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/w...ur-mustang-today.56419/page-1432#posts-28,625 & 28,628
 

GlassTop09

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
1,361
Reaction score
834
Location
Farmington, NM
Also have a new CHT sensor on hand to replace the old sensor as well while I have the IM off to finish this up (have noted when running several Forscan KOEO sensor self-checks that the 17 yr old original CHT sensor keeps setting off a low-current pending fault code thus had already picked up a new FoMoCo replacement CHT sensor for whenever I had to remove this IM again.........another 1 of those "while you're in there" things...........).
FYI for those so interested.................

Just got done running Forscan KOEO system self-checks on cold engine & KOER system self-checks on fully warmed up engine since work was completed...........both tests came back clean, so all sensors\systems now tests operationally sound on her.

This confirms the old Ford CHT sensor is indeed a 1 time install\use item & needs the crush tip to be in place to read accurately across full scale (why the old CHT sensor was setting off low current pending fault codes during Forscan KOEO tests.......crush tip was missing due to me removing this sensor a few yrs back to inspect it & reinstalled it w\ this crush tip missing thus it threw off the low current output from sensor.......).

Engine coolant level was solid in the center of the cold fill level range & was slightly over the top line once engine was fully up to temp, block valley was dry, heater was blowing very hot air so all is testing to be sound, so this is a wrap.

The Dorman metal heater hose connectors are, IMHO, a must get replacement item for these 4.6L 3V V8's.

:beer:
 
Back
Top