Best brand oil catch can

06JET

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I want a catch can and have FI. I am just pulling off the passenger side now just as the procharger directions had it set up. So if I get one with a check valve I can hook it up just like factory on the driver's side? Just cruising around not in boost it will draw oil vapor into it but under boost it will close and the motor will vent on the passenger side? Do I leave the passenger side connected to the intake tube before the procharger for just when it is in boost? I haven't ran a catch can before and I just want to make sure I understand what will work and not screw it up. Thanks
 

08MustangDude

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$40.00 Catch Can:

PRODUCT:
cc_r00_product_22e6ce0aee2d5976e492373f240cfa3e02398ec2.jpg



Measuring hoses and checking for kinks and such:
cc_r0510_35d9e8d50c9cbfeb9b74cc0bb335eb7e66a216b3.jpg


Cut my original PCV hard line to make quick disconnects for the braided hose:
cc_r0610_ad30021bfd05d95230eedebee06491d294f19829.jpg


cc_r1010_6bf50883f4be1045afce19ac1f309b76973b227d.jpg



Put the quick disconnects on the hoses:
cc_r0910_2ce6db9440adae83f5b1be6c15aa11fff2dc2595.jpg


cc_r1210_3759985b305e1d0114e5a757ff177f12f3127243.jpg



ALL DONE:
cc_r1310_2215eb08f2a0622281bd35ff27301a23d6b0a678.jpg

cc_r1410_7a97ea69d36c49a15649d1b6f5eebfb62e88a648.jpg



This was what was in the other one ~2000 miles:
cc_r1610_3fd409e1419d1476ea92792f7b30e79e6defb084.jpg


10AN Braided line was just under $3.00 a foot on eBay.

Catch can was $24.00 on eBay, and is baffled for steel wool. The baffle is about 1.5" in
diameter. It unscrews and you have about a .5" of height to put the material in.

The black one, they sent me a new kit for free when the bracket broke on the red one.

Update:
How to properly baffle the catch can:

I order catch cans with removable baffles, and they are empty when you get them:
ccb01_baffle_add23fcee04900559eef64f04279f5121c7f52a0.jpg


Stainless Mesh:
ccb02_baffle_stainlessmesh_c387c2ede10ed7641df1de339858a32c773f6b20.jpg


Baffle opened:
ccb03_baffleopen_cca82e6d1d4922216c5eb436456fc1022d736eae.jpg


Stuff some mesh into the baffle:
ccb04_bafflefilled_14bb832074094b97215384f081a08afe594efb5e.jpg


Close it back up:
ccb05_baffletogethertop_2967f4e8f61f4f62523d57c227cf507c1eb57a78.jpg

ccb06_baffletogetherbottom_70dd5892ca0705e90123c7bccc3ad18b3f4d4f8d.jpg


This baffle screws into the top of the catch can:
cc_r00_product_b_89819d5be8b772f9f30ea9d6b56ddba79770a495.jpg


The stainless mesh helps to better separate the oil, so more of it is removed from the vapors.

The issue with some cheap catch cans, is that they position both the inlet and outlet ports too close
together and with no separation inside, leads to a fairly useless setup when it comes to separating
oil and vapors. Make sure it has a baffle!
 
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06 T-RED S/C GT

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I've used JLT, Bob's Autosports and UPR's 4-chamber design. Out of those 3 catch cans, I've had the best results with the UPR 4-chamber design which also includes an inline one-way check valve. Needless to say, haven't looked back ever since.
 

08MustangDude

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You would only need something like that on forced induction motors. A one-way check
valve isn't required for NA applications. The PCV isn't even check-valved on my engine.
For a simple catch can, that's the way to go. I put one on my Trans Vent line too.
 

06 T-RED S/C GT

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I forgot to mention that my application is forced induction, therefore the one-way check valve is required. For your application, however, the one-way check valve isn't necessary nor required being that your motor is NA. Also, none of the PCV's on the 4.6L 3 valves are checked-valved nor function like a traditional PCV valve.


The only time you would run a non check valved can would be on a naturally aspirated setup. The pcv valve is a spring loaded plunger valve that is shut under manifold vaccum and opens when vac is low (wot) to vent crankcase pressure. It is not a one direction pressure checkvalve.

I'm trying to not repeat myself over and over but as I mentioned the PVC no longer functions as designed when your boosted. Again watch the video I posted maybe that will help you better. The pcv is not a checkvalve and was never designed to have to fight boost pressure coming from the manifold going into the valve cover through the pcv valve. It functions the opposite way when na vac greater than 2-4" in the manifold going through the line to the pcv valve pulls out the plunger and shuts it.

So yes 100% if your driver side setup is closed and you have boost you want a check valve to protect the engine from that pressure.

The cfm cap breather does help to vent the case but does nothing in the way of keeping you from forcing air from the manifold through the hose through your can and past the pcv and back into the case when your in boost. This pressure actually forces the pcv full open(plunger all the way in)when your in boost. Which you dont want as now instead of venting case your forcing air in past the plunger and valve seat of the pcv. An actual checkvalve would prevent this.
 

GlassTop09

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So why is it, when I switched from Ford 5W-20 dino oil.... to 100% synthetic RP 5W-30 HPS, that the amount collected in the catch can dropped 80-90% ?? This is immediately after the oil type change, been like that for years now. I dunno know if it's cuz the RP is 100% synthetic, and / or some special proprietary ingredient in their formulation..like the 'snyerlec' and loads of ZDP they use.
Conventional motor oil (or dino oil as referred to here) is mostly petroleum based (made from crude oil stocks) and when this oil is agitated from air\gasses being blown thru it (such as blow by from compression, power stroke passing thru the oil ring glands on the pistons into the crankcase) or from agitation from being slung off rotating parts & splashed into the passing air flow (blow by moving towards the vents) while hot it tends to foam up (or vaporize--flash off) making it easier to be carried out in the air stream thru the PCV system. 100% synthetic oil is entirely created from non crude oil stocks (like natural gas & coal but there are others also) & is formulated to be much more resistant to vaporization\flash off\foaming while hot when air is blown thru it or is agitated from being slung off rotating parts so it is much harder for the blow by air stream to carry it out under similar operating conditions thus you'll see less of it collected. Also w\ 100% synthetic oils, the heavier the hot viscosity grade is (the 20, 30, 40, 50 side) the resistance factor goes up even higher so it is even more resistant to vaporization\flash off when agitated or blown thru as the higher grades at 40 & up are formulated w\ severe duty use in mind (engines that operate using extremely high CR's, higher oil operating temps or are usually under some type of FI, like industrial diesels, racing engines, etc). As long as the oil has the same cold viscosity flow certification (the W side) of 5 it will be at the same cold viscosity rating & flow thru the same tolerances while cold regardless of the hot viscosity rating (thus multi-viscosity or multi-vis).

I run MotorCraft 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil in my cars (NA). I also have an ADD W-1 V3 oil catch can hooked up on the driver's side PCV system in my Mustang & hardly ever more than a 1\4" of oil is accumulated in it between oil changes (5,000 mi or 6 mos, whichever comes 1st). I took it to the Ford dealership to have car serviced last time & forgot to tell them to use MC 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil so they put in the OE spec MC 5W-20 Blend (50% dino, 50% synthetic). After approx. 3 mos I started noticing the oil level in my catch can (ADD W-1 cans have a dipstick) was rising faster than prior.....checked the service sheet & caught that. So I make sure from now on to instruct them to use MC 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil in my '09 Mustang and my '09 Lincoln MKS as well (the original Ford oil engineering design spec of these Modular engines was 5W-30), but since '04 due to the newer CAFE stds handed down from US gov Ford found that by switching to 5W-20 Blend oil this helped these engines become more fuel efficient by reducing the frictional coeff on all moving/rotating parts (yes oil does induce some frictional drag depending on the film strength & 1 of the benefits of synthetic oil vs dino oil is it's lubricating efficiency...less frictional drag meaning "slicker" for a better description....also why these 4.6L engines can rack up very high mileage runs w\o many mechanical issues as long as they are serviced regularly AND use at minimum a blended oil) but still would allow the piston rings to properly seat into the cylinder walls. Once the rings are properly seated there is no more need\reason to use a blended oil w\ these Modular engines....100% or full synthetic oil provides the absolute best lubricating properties (reducing frictional drag as well as foaming\vaporization resistance among others) you can get in a motor oil today. Today's synthetic oils are NOT the same as they were years ago....for the better.

Hope this helps.
 

ghunt81

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I've been running full synthetic on my car since I bought it and still getting a ton in the catch can. Would hate to see how much would be in there on dino oil.
 

08MustangDude

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I had one on my former '13 TDI, and I used Rotella T6, and the catch can
would fill up almost three times between oil changes. I switched to an
even CHEAPER diesel motor oil, DELO400, and the can barely filled
up once between oil changes. So, the oil properties have a LOT to do with
how much blow-by you get. I was just amazed at the reduction simply
by switching brands. So, my current 2.5 I5 can run 0W, 5W, and 10W40.
I will put 5 quarts of Euro spec xW40, then the rest with the DEL0400 5W40
and it has also reduced oil consumption in that engine...
 

Pentalab

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I've been running full synthetic on my car since I bought it and still getting a ton in the catch can. Would hate to see how much would be in there on dino oil.

What brand synthetic ?
 

ghunt81

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Running Supertech Synthetic now but it wasn't any different when I was using Mobil 1.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Just installed a pair of $25 billet aluminum Ebay catch cans yesterday. I inserted a Scotch Brite stainless steel scrubber inside each of them as a filter media, made custom mounting brackets, added lengths of 3/8" rubber hose on passenger side, plus lengths of 5/8" rubber hose on the driver's side. All went together very easily.

Catch Can Left.jpg Catch Can Right.jpg Engine.jpg
 
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JEWC_Motorsports

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So many threads on this already.... UPR /thread. If you have a direct injection engine some manufactures even recommend adding a catch can in the owners manual and running a top tier gasoline.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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If you have a direct injection engine some manufactures even recommend adding a catch can in the owners manual

The bastards are so cheap that they can't even be bothered to fit one on each car from the factory in case it eats into their corporate profits.
 

08MustangDude

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NO NO NO, do not use Scotch Brite pads! They will deteriorate, AND
where do you think those particles are going to end up? It may be
a little, but what do you use scotch brite pads for? SANDING...

Show us what you used, just in case. IF it's all steel mesh, that's
fine, but if it is an actual scotch brite pad, that's not good.

Why would you bracket to the strut tower when there is a perch
already there?
tc03_t10.jpg

The RED one on the left... That's my trans-vent line catch. I had used that one for the
oil catch originally, perfect spot for one. Just saying... The mount is already there for you.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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NO NO NO, do not use Scotch Brite pads! They will deteriorate, AND
where do you think those particles are going to end up? It may be
a little, but what do you use scotch brite pads for? SANDING...

Show us what you used, just in case. IF it's all steel mesh, that's
fine, but if it is an actual scotch brite pad, that's not good.

Why would you bracket to the strut tower when there is a perch
already there?

You're thinking of those green pads. I used the same stainless steel wool that you used.

61K4ISc0kZL.jpg


I decided to fix the bracket to the passenger side strut tower 'cause that gave me the best angle to route the hoses from the catch can.
 
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08MustangDude

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I had mine there:
cc16_r10.jpg

Direct lines to the PCV and INTAKE, just longer than yours... But, as you can see above
I moved it to the intake plenum, and are using ^That for the Auto trans catch can.

I didn't think that they called steel wool, scotch brite pads... WE have green,
red, gray, and black, different grits... Use them to scuff plastics or metals
for paint prep.
 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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Your V6 PCV and intake manifold vacuum port are on the passenger side so that arrangement is similar to what I have on the driver's side.
Sorry it's my fault for not making it clear from the outset that I used stainless steel scrubbers which I know to be safe. :) I've edited my original post to reflect that.
 

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