GT500KR
Senior Member
thanks guys... got the trans out with help from a friend. really pisses me off when i paid someone to do what i didnt wanna do... all to have to do it myself again!! here is what i found
Chasing Superchager Belt Issues/Engine Knock/Clutch problems
- Thread starter GT500KR
- Start date
GT500KR
Senior Member
so i was like!!! yea!! this is it!! some how for some reason with only 2000ish miles on a new clutch it developed a hot spot and the pucks were hitting it making that knocking noise... end of story. call trans guy on monday reim him a new one and bam boom... so next night im driving 2 hours to my gf's and started thinking... it made that sound whether the clutch was in or out. so maybe its not it.
decide to pull the oil pan for shits and giggles... this is what i found
so as i swallowed my stomach again... i did what i had to and pulled the motor...
gettin her torn down
decide to pull the oil pan for shits and giggles... this is what i found
so as i swallowed my stomach again... i did what i had to and pulled the motor...
gettin her torn down
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
Any clue where the metal is from?
How much power were you pushing?
How much power were you pushing?
GT500KR
Senior Member
Just about 450 to the tires. I'll have to find my Dyno sheet.
Found the culprit....
Excellent cylinder wear
Found the culprit....
Excellent cylinder wear
GT500KR
Senior Member
Dropped the block off at the engine shop to get it going for the stroker kit.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
Oh no!!!!
So is the metal from the piston? Where did the metal come from?
So is the metal from the piston? Where did the metal come from?
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Damn.. sorry to hear this. You sir got lucky there (as far as the block goes). Lousy OEM rods. Atleast it did not break and window the block. You should inspect the block real close and make sure the rod did not hit and crack the block anywhere. If there are no contact marks on the rod you should be ok on the block.
On the bright side.. If you go Forged RA you are or should be able to hit the 600 mark easily.
So what are your plans moving forward? If you want to put a 13 TVS on that manifold let me know it is simple provided you have the fuel for it. Those blowers are pretty cheap and make a crapload of boost on the 3v with the DOB manifold.
Any real reason you want a stroker?
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help
On the bright side.. If you go Forged RA you are or should be able to hit the 600 mark easily.
So what are your plans moving forward? If you want to put a 13 TVS on that manifold let me know it is simple provided you have the fuel for it. Those blowers are pretty cheap and make a crapload of boost on the 3v with the DOB manifold.
Any real reason you want a stroker?
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help
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GT500KR
Senior Member
what is with a 13 TVS? is that stock on the new gt500? price? power? limits?
as of now im looking at maxing this blower out. i have cash for the engine build but not for a bigger fuel system trans rear end etc etc
does the 13 TVS bolt to our manifold?
thanks
id also like more info on going to 8 rib. Jason said he would make me a new pulley and id get a 10% overdrive balancer...
whats the farthest someone has pushed the blower we have?
thanks guys
GT500KR
Senior Member
another question...oil pump?? stock? bigger? let me know thanks
tmcolegr
It's All About the Build
are you planning on retaining the VCT?
GT500KR
Senior Member
yes
GT500KR
Senior Member
found my dyno sheet
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
The 2013 TVS will likely take you over what your fuel, trans, DS and rear end will hold. Your drivetrain would last for a while depending on how you drive but life definitely cut short.
We made 602 rwhp in the early stages with the frankenblower (only time we had it on the dyno). That was with a 2.65" pulley and the 10%OD shifting at 6500 (my VCT is locked out). IAT becomes the real issue. I was spinning it to just under 20,000 rpm lol. We did make some improvements to the rear wall that showed good results but no dyno data as we kinda lost interest at the moment. Simple porting really helps these things out a bunch tho. The OEM blower has a lot left behind as their OEM goals were met. I guess they just said "good enough".
The TVS on the other hand is WAY more efficient. You could tune one down but they are not cheap compared to the stock unit. I have seen new takeoffs go for as low as $1800 shipped. They do bolt right up. Only thing needed is a new pulley and a different hub as the offset is different on the TVS.
The 8 rib conversion can actually get quite expensive depending on the direction you go. I chose to use all dual bearing thump pulleys for the smooth idlers. To do that the tensioner has to be machined some also and not all shops are able to do this (I had to outsource that). The rest of the parts are pretty easy to find tho. All in all I bet I have $1500 in my 8 rib conversion including the IW OD pulley (most expensive part). There are a couple idlers and such that need to be shimmed also to get proper alignment. A 6 rib belt will take more misalignment than the 8 rib did. This is the main reason I chose a special alt pulley. I really went out of my way to find a correct alt pulley that was clutched. I could have made the other 8 rib alt pulley (clutched also) work but chose to do it right and avoided shimming that. Plus the one I now use is larger (underdrive for the alt) so the alt is back to factory rpm and a little less parasitic drag is a plus (not that it really matters on my setup lol). To get a clutched pulley with the correct offset (to avoid shimming) I only found ONE this ONE. It is off a Mercedes truck that is not imported to the US. That pulley alone is over $200. I think link did his much cheaper and has zero problems with his. I tend to go max overkill lol.
I think Link is around 600 now with his setup and other than the forged internals it was on the cheap.
As far as some added insurance.. go with the TSS gears for the oil pump. Easier to do it now and not worry about it.
We made 602 rwhp in the early stages with the frankenblower (only time we had it on the dyno). That was with a 2.65" pulley and the 10%OD shifting at 6500 (my VCT is locked out). IAT becomes the real issue. I was spinning it to just under 20,000 rpm lol. We did make some improvements to the rear wall that showed good results but no dyno data as we kinda lost interest at the moment. Simple porting really helps these things out a bunch tho. The OEM blower has a lot left behind as their OEM goals were met. I guess they just said "good enough".
The TVS on the other hand is WAY more efficient. You could tune one down but they are not cheap compared to the stock unit. I have seen new takeoffs go for as low as $1800 shipped. They do bolt right up. Only thing needed is a new pulley and a different hub as the offset is different on the TVS.
The 8 rib conversion can actually get quite expensive depending on the direction you go. I chose to use all dual bearing thump pulleys for the smooth idlers. To do that the tensioner has to be machined some also and not all shops are able to do this (I had to outsource that). The rest of the parts are pretty easy to find tho. All in all I bet I have $1500 in my 8 rib conversion including the IW OD pulley (most expensive part). There are a couple idlers and such that need to be shimmed also to get proper alignment. A 6 rib belt will take more misalignment than the 8 rib did. This is the main reason I chose a special alt pulley. I really went out of my way to find a correct alt pulley that was clutched. I could have made the other 8 rib alt pulley (clutched also) work but chose to do it right and avoided shimming that. Plus the one I now use is larger (underdrive for the alt) so the alt is back to factory rpm and a little less parasitic drag is a plus (not that it really matters on my setup lol). To get a clutched pulley with the correct offset (to avoid shimming) I only found ONE this ONE. It is off a Mercedes truck that is not imported to the US. That pulley alone is over $200. I think link did his much cheaper and has zero problems with his. I tend to go max overkill lol.
I think Link is around 600 now with his setup and other than the forged internals it was on the cheap.
As far as some added insurance.. go with the TSS gears for the oil pump. Easier to do it now and not worry about it.
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GT500KR
Senior Member
ok awesome thanks
what needs machined on the tensioner? i have my own shop.
i have thought about making a stand alone belt setup for my blower? 8 or 10 rib? yea or na? pain in ass of course but i have the ability to do this...
what needs machined on the tensioner? i have my own shop.
i have thought about making a stand alone belt setup for my blower? 8 or 10 rib? yea or na? pain in ass of course but i have the ability to do this...
GT500KR
Senior Member
you said TSS gears?? that replaces the gears that are in my stock pump now? thanks
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
The step on the tensioner that the pulley rides on. It is a two stage deal to machine down. Only needed if using the dual bearing 76mm idler on the tensioner. If you do not machine it down it will hit the front cover as the offset of the thump idler is different. My alignment is spot on now. I did machine down the head of the tensioner bolt just for some added clearance. Not hard, we were not setup in our shop to mill down the tensioner. I will get spec if you like but the dual bearing tensioner pulley needs to move away from the front cover
Yes. Triangle Speed Shop makes excellent gears. Some people have had OEM gears fail on high hp cars in the past. Those fail, so does your motor!
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05moneypit
Member
Did you by chance go buy a lottery ticket? That is amazing you didn't window that block.
Lee
Lee
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
That was his prize! Well, if you can call it that. Plus, the heads are usually damaged when a rod breaks...
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tmcolegr
It's All About the Build
I suggest starting off with FRPP's M-6600-F46 oil pump which has the billet back plate in addition to using TSS billet oil pump gears
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GT500KR
Senior Member
So question could I use just the gears in my stock pump housing.... is the FRPP pump a better housing?
Billet steel back no on a stock pump? Thanks guys
Billet steel back no on a stock pump? Thanks guys
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