Clutch problems

[JeremyH]

Ok so I over nited my spacer from Ram to here and this is what I got. It looks to me like this is going to be perfect. Thanks Ram. Jermey I would highly suggest you to wait and let me put this in. Maybe it will save you some money on labor. All this has costed me was UPS +14.99 and my sweat. And well a few cuss words. LOL Im going to go start the process. Hopefully I can get xpipe, starter, torque limiter and driveshaft removed tonight.
View attachment 24964
View attachment 24965
View attachment 24966

Sweet man, yeah jegs wasnt in stock damnit lol, it says it wont ship till monday.

Look foward to your results!!! I think you will be in business!

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Summit has them in stock and so does RAM. I orded my directly from Ram in SC.

 

[19COBRA93]

Pic comparison between 07-09 GT500 clutch, and '10-12 GT500 clutch. They are significantly different which explains why Ford also requires the new short style slave cylinder when swapping in the '10 clutch into 07-09's.

The whole point to this post is to show that the depth of your clutch really matters when trying to figure out clutch engagement issues.

The '07-09 clutch (shorter) on the left, and '10-newer clutch (taller) on the right.

 

[bigray327]

I'll be curious to see the outcome of the shim thing. I've mentioned in a few other threads that my 6060/RXT/OEM slave setup is clunking really bad. I've been told it's the transmission, but I never believed that... I think the clutch is hanging and the clunking I'm hearing is when it releases.

 

[one eyed willy]

Pic comparison between 07-09 GT500 clutch, and '10-12 GT500 clutch. They are significantly different which explains why Ford also requires the new short style slave cylinder when swapping in the '10 clutch into 07-09's.

The whole point to this post is to show that the depth of your clutch really matters when trying to figure out clutch engagement issues.

The '07-09 clutch (shorter) on the left, and '10-newer clutch (taller) on the right.

thank you for that!!

now can someone measure a RST and RXT?

 

[redstangs9308gt]

I will, I have my 10spline rst out in the junk pile I can dig out. I have no progress to report as of tonight. I also have to work a full shift tomorrow so it will be sunday before I can start/finish my shim job.

 

[tbrock]

For those running the RST clutch don't rely on the instruction that come with the clutch. Their is another set of instructions online that has you do some measurements as the clutch is installed. see link http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5227

The McLeod tech we spoke to said that you really shouldn't have to take these measurements as they are "pre inspected" prior to being shipped, but occassionally one gets through that is off. Worth looking into.

The Ford tech put my car on the lift running and with the clutch depressed the rear tires would still move slowly and then stop, which means something (clutch or slave) isn't releasing.

 

[gil_t2]

Just use the work sheet i left on post 134, Easier yet just measure you old unit height , and compare to new. If replacing just clutch and PP, measure from FW face to PP fingers

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Update; Shim is in, I can immedately tell a difference(without bleeding clutch yet) a different in clutch pedal feel. I think it will ingage and disengage mid stroke of clutch pedal instead of right off the floor. NOTE>>>>>> DO NOT REUSE YOUR FACTORY LENGTH SLAVE BOLTS WITH SHIM!!!! Yes they will tread in but just not enough tread in to get em tq down. Just ask me what I just spent 2hrs doing.... but nothing a re-threader won't take care of and larger bolts. I wish I could say I am going to finish this tonight but 12hrs of driving a truck+this hobby I am ready to hit the floor. Going to get a few hours of rest and hit this back up around 4am.

 

[BruceH]

Update; Shim is in, I can immedately tell a difference(without bleeding clutch yet) a different in clutch pedal feel. I think it will ingage and disengage mid stroke of clutch pedal instead of right off the floor. NOTE>>>>>> DO NOT REUSE YOUR FACTORY LENGTH SLAVE BOLTS WITH SHIM!!!! Yes they will tread in but just not enough tread in to get em tq down. Just ask me what I just spent 2hrs doing.... but nothing a re-threader won't take care of and larger bolts. I wish I could say I am going to finish this tonight but 12hrs of driving a truck+this hobby I am ready to hit the floor. Going to get a few hours of rest and hit this back up around 4am.

I did the same thing back when I was experimenting with a shim. Just get the longer bolts. There will be enough threads to get a good torque because you only stripped the first 3 threads in the transmission.

If that doesn't work and you can't find a kit locally I have a helicoil M6x1 repair kit with 12 repair coils. I can get it out priority mail all I ask of you is to send it back. I ordered it right after I stripped the bolt, then went down to the parts store and got longer bolts which solved the problem.

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Thanks for the offer. I used what I call a "re thread er" it worked pretty good. I was lucky I had some larger/longer bolts.

 

[JeremyH]

Sweet. Longer bolts it is, look foward to hearing more.

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Alrighty, I might have some air in my slave, I am unsure at this point but, last time(b4 shim) I would try to put it in gear up on jack stands the tires would start to turn and turn and turn and turn and wouldn't stop turning untill I put small amount of pressure on the park brake. OK, this go around, up on jack stands, putting it into gear, the rear wheels will slightly turn, maybe a half a rotation then stop. I think I could have used a slightly thicker shim, but with that said I may have small amounts of air in my slave, because I haven't pumped the pedal not once, just put vaccum on it over night. If I had to do a shim vs non shim comparasion of my clutch pedal. I would say engagement was on the floor without shim, almost like the pedal wasn't depressing enough for proper engagment and disengagement. With the shim, engagement/disengagment is starting about middle of the stroke of the clutch pedal. Full engagement/disengage is now accuring slightly very slightly before the pedal hits the floor. So was this worth it. Hell yes. I just want to say Mcleod might make some good products but they should have their applications nailed down by now and should know what applications needs shims and what doesn't. Wake the fuck up Mcloed. Thanks for 2 weekends of work to get one job done right. Good luck Jermey hope you get your shit lined out. My 2cents

 

[gil_t2]

You will get a little wheel spin when jacked up, remember even when out of gear the input shaft is still spinning the counter shaft. You should have 1" free play in clutch pedal at top. I am glad it worked for you, mine is perfect.

 

[JeremyH]

Good to hear! Do they have a slightly thicker shim? May go ahead and grab a thicker one since the other ones taking so long anyway.

 

[tbrock]

Update; Shim is in, I can immedately tell a difference(without bleeding clutch yet) a different in clutch pedal feel. I think it will ingage and disengage mid stroke of clutch pedal instead of right off the floor. NOTE>>>>>> DO NOT REUSE YOUR FACTORY LENGTH SLAVE BOLTS WITH SHIM!!!! Yes they will tread in but just not enough tread in to get em tq down. Just ask me what I just spent 2hrs doing.... but nothing a re-threader won't take care of and larger bolts. I wish I could say I am going to finish this tonight but 12hrs of driving a truck+this hobby I am ready to hit the floor. Going to get a few hours of rest and hit this back up around 4am.

How much longer did/can you go?

Thanks can't wait until tomorrow when the shop opens back up so I can get mine rolling again.

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Well first test drive, and love it. Shim 100% made it better. Now I just got to get that idle/coast/stall issue fixed. Side note it almost puts me in mind of how my 93 5.0 gt shifted/engaged. LOVE IT

 

[tbrock]

Just use the work sheet i left on post 134, Easier yet just measure you old unit height , and compare to new. If replacing just clutch and PP, measure from FW face to PP fingers

What I am referencing is specific to the RST/RXT and making sure the clutch plates move freely enough. They are supposed to be checked/inspected and so in the box they don't include instructions on how to measure to make sure that the clutch is setup properely. Online however they have a different procedure that actually talks of shimming the plates if the correct tolerances are not found.

IMO better to be safe prior to putting everything back together rather than go through the time and expense of tearing it down again. I wish we would have had the info you referenced and this McLeod instruction sheet when we did mine. As I am now paying to have it tore down to check all of these tolerances/measurement. Major PITA!

 

[gil_t2]

What I am referencing is specific to the RST/RXT and making sure the clutch plates move freely enough. They are supposed to be checked/inspected and so in the box they don't include instructions on how to measure to make sure that the clutch is setup properely. Online however they have a different procedure that actually talks of shimming the plates if the correct tolerances are not found.

IMO better to be safe prior to putting everything back together rather than go through the time and expense of tearing it down again. I wish we would have had the info you referenced and this McLeod instruction sheet when we did mine. As I am now paying to have it tore down to check all of these tolerances/measurement. Major PITA!

My bad i misunderstood, i read it again and i see what you ment.

 

[explict]

Out of curiosity why thickness was the shim?
Also how long and what size bolts did you use instead of the stock ones? I would like to know this before I tear my car apart.