Code P0340 after cam install help

Garrett brittain

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I just installed Ford’s hot rod cams in my 2007 GT. The car hesitated to start at first but eventually started and it now idles and runs exactly how I’ve heard in videos, the idle is stable at 800 RPM and it runs fine while driving too, no overheating or oil pressure issues, the car seems like it’s okay. I also flashed a BAMA tune on the car before initial startup

However, I scanned the car for codes and I’ve got P0340 and P0344 which both have to do with camshaft position sensors.

has anyone else had this issue after doing cams? As with most codes in cars, the issue can be many different things. Any advice is appreciated
 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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If you haven't uploaded a new custom tune to your ECU that's had the cam timing advance/retard tables adjusted, that could be the reason why you have codes.
The man who can fix that for you is Manuel Pazo aka Lito who's something of a 3V tuning god. He's based in Venezuela and can write a custom e-mail tune for you based on your datalogs. His contact is [email protected]

http://www.tudyno.com/contacto.html
 

Garrett brittain

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If you haven't uploaded a new custom tune to your ECU that's had the cam timing advance/retard tables adjusted, that could be the reason why you have codes.
The man who can fix that for you is Manuel Pazo aka Lito who's something of a 3V tuning god. He's based in Venezuela and can write a custom e-mail tune for you based on your datalogs. His contact is [email protected]

http://www.tudyno.com/contacto.html

I did a Bama tune on the car before starting it up, I should’ve listed that in the post so that’s my fault
 

GlassTop09

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I just installed Ford’s hot rod cams in my 2007 GT. The car hesitated to start at first but eventually started and it now idles and runs exactly how I’ve heard in videos, the idle is stable at 800 RPM and it runs fine while driving too, no overheating or oil pressure issues, the car seems like it’s okay. I also flashed a BAMA tune on the car before initial startup

However, I scanned the car for codes and I’ve got P0340 and P0344 which both have to do with camshaft position sensors.

has anyone else had this issue after doing cams? As with most codes in cars, the issue can be many different things. Any advice is appreciated
Since you said you just installed cams, you might check the tone fingers on your cam phasers to see if any of them got bent inward causing a larger gap from the cam position sensor. This is not hard to do when R&R the cam phasers during cam swap IF you didn't pull the cam sensors out beforehand (ensure that the phaser fingers cleared the cam position sensor during R&R).

If any fingers got bent & opened the air gap between them & the cam position sensor this will throw off the signal & cause these DTC's.

If you weren't having these DTC's prior cam swap then this is a possibility............

Hope this helps.
 

07 Boss

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get a better tune file. may not be your issue, but you'll be better off all around.

I was thinking the same thing. Get a good tune first before throwing parts at it. Bama does not have the best rep when it comes to actual tuning with mods like cams.
 

Garrett brittain

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Since you said you just installed cams, you might check the tone fingers on your cam phasers to see if any of them got bent inward causing a larger gap from the cam position sensor. This is not hard to do when R&R the cam phasers during cam swap IF you didn't pull the cam sensors out beforehand (ensure that the phaser fingers cleared the cam position sensor during R&R).

If any fingers got bent & opened the air gap between them & the cam position sensor this will throw off the signal & cause these DTC's.

If you weren't having these DTC's prior cam swap then this is a possibility............

Hope this helps.

it seems like even though those fingers are thin, it would take a good amount of force to bend one of them, but I do understand how that could happen. I highly doubt it’s what happened to my car but if nothing else solves the issue I guess I’ll be pulling the covers back off and checking them, thanks for your response
 

CGGuy09

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Yikes, that's not fun.

The easiest thing to do would be to reach out to Bama. I've been researching tunes a lot lately and it seems Bama is usually willing to go back and re-do their tunes if a customer reports a problem.

Hopefully that's the solution, because that would be the easiest.

Keep us updated. I'm planning on doing this mod in the next couple months & I was planning on going with a Bama tune.

Best of luck!
 

CGGuy09

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Why would you do that when Lito is available?
I don't want to detract from @Garrett brittain 's post...But, I plan on doing little additions at a time to my car. Throttle Body one month. Cams six months later. Long headers some time next year. Each addition will require a tune.

Not looking to drop $600+ over small tunes over time. Maybe when I'm done tuning, I'll get it dyno'd or pay out more money

The tunes for life is an attractive feature. So far, I've only noted Bama offering that deal. If there was another, I'd be interested.
 

Laga

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Lito charges one fee. Similar to tunes for life. Unless go go FI or E85. It was an additional $50 to do my E85 tune.
Do a search here. Bama tunes have a bad reputation. I’m gonna go OK for dinner OK OK
 

Midlife Crises

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Buy the headers and hang them on the wall. Buy the throttle body if you must and leave it in the box and when you can afford the cams pick them up and don’t forget a cold air inlet. Install all the parts at the same time with a Lito tune and you won’t need “free tunes for life”.
 

07 Boss

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I don't want to detract from @Garrett brittain 's post...But, I plan on doing little additions at a time to my car. Throttle Body one month. Cams six months later. Long headers some time next year. Each addition will require a tune.

Not looking to drop $600+ over small tunes over time. Maybe when I'm done tuning, I'll get it dyno'd or pay out more money

The tunes for life is an attractive feature. So far, I've only noted Bama offering that deal. If there was another, I'd be interested.


Doesn"t matter how good the deal is if you aren't satisfied with the product. DO NOT GO WITH BAMA.
 

Deon Lee

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I recently got a Lito tune on my 08 one n/a for basic bolt ons and hot rod cams plus I got a nitrous tune can’t beat it for $250. I told him from the get go I have the Ford racing manifold a set of longtubes and a gt500 twin 60mm tb sitting in the garage that I plan on putting on the car as soon as I get the time. He said that’s fine as I add them he will send me a new file each time for free. Only mod that will cost any extra for a later tune would be if I went with a different power adder and I believe that’s only like another $100. But bolt ons are free for life essentially
 

CGGuy09

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I recently got a Lito tune on my 08 one n/a for basic bolt ons and hot rod cams plus I got a nitrous tune can’t beat it for $250. I told him from the get go I have the Ford racing manifold a set of longtubes and a gt500 twin 60mm tb sitting in the garage that I plan on putting on the car as soon as I get the time. He said that’s fine as I add them he will send me a new file each time for free. Only mod that will cost any extra for a later tune would be if I went with a different power adder and I believe that’s only like another $100. But bolt ons are free for life essentially
Alright! You guys are bullies! Hahaha

I appreciate everyone’s input. I did more research and I think you boys are right.... Lito is likely the way to go.

I’ll be reaching out to our Venezuelan friends shortly.
 

Bullitt 4641

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I'm glad to see you've had a change of direction. I too, thought Bama tunes for life was the way to go; becuase I was also doing one mod at a time (as I could afford it). I put their tune in my car once and never went back to them. Instead, I turned to Brenspeed; and as long as I purchased my upgrades from them, they included the necessary tune. Until the Paxton; I purchased it from Brenspeed, and after some "quirks" they had no desire to help me out. I'm working with Lito now - very happy with his experience, knowledge and patience with my schedule, testing and logging.
 

Garrett brittain

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Well guys here’s my final consensus on this topic.

I’m not gonna lie, I’m very embarrassed to admit this..but I forgot to plug the passenger side cam sensor back in after the cam install. I say I did it but really it was my friend who helped me during the install, he plugged everything back in while I was transferring the tune to my sct device, I should’ve checked behind him but I didn’t. But my cam sensor codes are gone but the others remain.

I’m going to replace the alternator as soon as I’m back from vacation. I’m not sure which alternator to go with though, SR performance 130a sounds like a good deal but I’m not sure if I should go with the 200a version since I have the shaker 1000 system and want to boost my car in the future.

I did some reading and found that even a built car wouldn’t exceed 165 amps and that more powerful alternators have charging issues at low RPMs. I’m just gonna continue to do research and try to figure this part of the equation out.

As for my tune, I’ve decided to abandon BAMA and go with Lito. I contacted him about an estimate for a tune and he got back to me with a detailed sheet of exactly how much I’ll have to pay for a tune and future revisions and it seems too good to be true especially considering that Lito is renowned as the best remote tuner for these engines on the planet. Once my alt is in I’ll be beginning a tuning process with him to get the new cams dialed in and get as much power as I can.
 

GlassTop09

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I’m not gonna lie, I’m very embarrassed to admit this..but I forgot to plug the passenger side cam sensor back in after the cam install. I say I did it but really it was my friend who helped me during the install, he plugged everything back in while I was transferring the tune to my sct device, I should’ve checked behind him but I didn’t. But my cam sensor codes are gone but the others remain.
Glad that you got that part figured out.
:beer:
 

Laga

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Well guys here’s my final consensus on this topic.

I’m not gonna lie, I’m very embarrassed to admit this..but I forgot to plug the passenger side cam sensor back in after the cam install. I say I did it but really it was my friend who helped me during the install, he plugged everything back in while I was transferring the tune to my sct device, I should’ve checked behind him but I didn’t. But my cam sensor codes are gone but the others remain.

I’m going to replace the alternator as soon as I’m back from vacation. I’m not sure which alternator to go with though, SR performance 130a sounds like a good deal but I’m not sure if I should go with the 200a version since I have the shaker 1000 system and want to boost my car in the future.

I did some reading and found that even a built car wouldn’t exceed 165 amps and that more powerful alternators have charging issues at low RPMs. I’m just gonna continue to do research and try to figure this part of the equation out.

As for my tune, I’ve decided to abandon BAMA and go with Lito. I contacted him about an estimate for a tune and he got back to me with a detailed sheet of exactly how much I’ll have to pay for a tune and future revisions and it seems too good to be true especially considering that Lito is renowned as the best remote tuner for these engines on the planet. Once my alt is in I’ll be beginning a tuning process with him to get the new cams dialed in and get as much power as I can.
I have a 200 amp alternator, plus an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge that displays the voltage going to the battery in digital format. It never has a problem charging at low RPM’s and I have a lot of added electrical components.
Told ya Lito was the way to go.
 

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