Correct slave cylinder shim?

[Department Of Boost]

Do you think I would've felt the clutch not disengaging? Like I said above the shop said my blocking rings were shot due to a clutch disengagement issue. It shifted great with no issues right up til it started grinding into 2nd gear..

Thanks

Mine is right on the edge and needs to be shimmed. You can’t “feel” that it’s harder to shift unless you pay REAL close attention. Mine clutch disengages pretty well when things are cold, but when it heats up it has a slight drag to it when trying to get it into 1st and reverse. It will still shift when warm but it takes a tiny bit more finesse to snap quick ones off. I’m positive I’m not doing my trans any good.

I just got a 6060 so I get to start from scratch with that. This whole “shim to fit” thing is a HUGE PITA.

 

[Flapjack]

Still searching and can't find a thing. Even called Jegs and Summit.

Am I making the right assumption in that I can even use a shim on a stock slave cylinder, or do I need to have a Ram adjustable slave to use these? If not, how do the Ram adjustable work? Are they any good?

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[drive_55_not]

So where are you finding these different sizes to try? I just looked around and only found the Ram Clutches one. I'd like to start at .60 then .80 if needed.

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You can shim the stocker ..

I would also think you'd be grinding gears if your clutch wasn't engaging (disengaging) during shifts.

Tick Performance in Mooresville NC sells a .055 .. It's made out of unpainted steel for $15.

The 1st one I used was their .115 and I used it a template to cut out the other 2 I cut out of scrap aluminum.

If you've got an old slave you could trace an outline of the base and trim it to fit.


I wasn't having any shift issues,, The reason I used the shim was to prevent over-extending the slave. I removed the 1st shim and ran with out one ... the clutch worked fine on the street, 1st trip to the track un-shimmed and the slave blew on the 3-4 shift ...

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[frarmar]

Mine is right on the edge and needs to be shimmed. You can’t “feel” that it’s harder to shift unless you pay REAL close attention. Mine clutch disengages pretty well when things are cold, but when it heats up it has a slight drag to it when trying to get it into 1st and reverse. It will still shift when warm but it takes a tiny bit more finesse to snap quick ones off. I’m positive I’m not doing my trans any good.

I just got a 6060 so I get to start from scratch with that. This whole “shim to fit” thing is a HUGE PITA.

I never noticed anything. The only issue I ever had was it kept losing pedal pressure when the clutch was first installed. Pumping the pedal solved that, and it went away after a couple hundred miles.

It's definitely a PITA.. One of the reasons I got the Exedy clutch and flywheel was because no shim was required... lol Who knows.

 

[Flapjack]

You can shim the stocker.

Awesome. I've heard mixed reviews on the adjustable slave cylinders.

I would also think you'd be grinding gears if your clutch wasn't engaging (disengaging) during shifts.

Mostly hard to get out of gear into neutral, with the occasional grinding going into gear. Slow going into each gear as well. I've bled the system every way I know how...even had Ford do it once. No help.

Tick Performance in Mooresville NC sells a .055 .. It's made out of unpainted steel for $15.

Do you think that would be a good size to start at? If not, there is an awesome machinist in town who is super-reasonable.

The 1st one I used was their .115 and I used it a template to cut out the other 2 I cut out of scrap aluminum.

I'm assuming this is a pie job for a machinist, right?

If you've got an old slave you could trace an outline of the base and trim it to fit.

I have a brand new, unused slave in the garage. Haven't used it as the part # for the TR6060 (GT500) is different.

I wasn't having any shift issues,, The reason I used the shim was to prevent over-extending the slave. I removed the 1st shim and ran with out one ... the clutch worked fine on the street, 1st trip to the track un-shimmed and the slave blew on the 3-4 shift ....

Good to see there's another side benefit to this mod.

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[Department Of Boost]

When I put my TR-6060 in I'm going to shim the stock slave .125 and if that ends up being too much dial it back with that Ram adjuster thing. We'll see how that works.
http://www.ramclutches.com/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=677

Just helped a friend with his 3650 and we shimmed the stock slave .125 and its FANTASTIC. I drove his 2010 GT with a Spec Stage II+, my 2010 GT which is stone stock and my 2007 GT with a Spec Stage III+ all in the same day and the shimmed slave was better than the other two cars by a long shot.

 

[Flapjack]

When I put my TR-6060 in I'm going to shim the stock slave .125 and if that ends up being too much dial it back with that Ram adjuster thing. We'll see how that works.
http://www.ramclutches.com/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=677

Just helped a friend with his 3650 and we shimmed the stock slave .125 and its FANTASTIC. I drove his 2010 GT with a Spec Stage II+, my 2010 GT which is stone stock and my 2007 GT with a Spec Stage III+ all in the same day and the shimmed slave was better than the other two cars by a long shot.

Do you think that's what is best for the V6/GT slave cylinder? I have the actual GT500 part, which is different (IIRC).

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[Department Of Boost]

Do you think that's what is best for the V6/GT slave cylinder? I have the actual GT500 part, which is different (IIRC).

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What trans are you running? I'm not sure I understand the question??

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[TurboX]

I am very interested in this setup, do you have a list of parts or some specs and please, more pictures.

 

[Flapjack]

What trans are you running? I'm not sure I understand the question??

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I have a TR6060. I was told the only difference between the GT500 slave cylinder and the V6/GT one was the amount of "release" (for lack of a better term).

You mentioned putting that shim in your friends GT w/3650 and that it was perfect, and that you would try using the stock (GT) slave cylinder with the .125 shim.

The way I see it, my issue could either be 1) something is wrong with my GT500 slave cylinder (even though it's acted this way from day one), or 2) I simply need a shim to get the shiftability I want.

I was asking if your approach would be a good approach for me, since it would replace the slave cylinder (even thought it is a V6/GT one) as well as putting a shim into play. I could try a shim on my current GT500 slave cylinder, but if it's the slave itself that is bad, I may blame it on the wrong sized shim and get stuck in a loop of troubleshooting (which would suck, considering the amount of work putting a shim in would be). My only other question on trying your approach is the RAM thing. I thought their piece replaced the entire slave cylinder/TOB?

I'll have the engine out to drop in the forged block (when my back heals), so this is the right time to do something about my dissatisfaction with my shifting. Just want to make sure I'm going about it the right way.

I could also sell my new V6/GT TOB and get another GT500 one to try. But I'd probably use a thinner (harder to find) shim to go alone with it.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I have a TR6060. I was told the only difference between the GT500 slave cylinder and the V6/GT one was the amount of "release" (for lack of a better term).

You mentioned putting that shim in your friends GT w/3650 and that it was perfect, and that you would try using the stock (GT) slave cylinder with the .125 shim.

The way I see it, my issue could either be 1) something is wrong with my GT500 slave cylinder (even though it's acted this way from day one), or 2) I simply need a shim to get the shiftability I want.

I was asking if your approach would be a good approach for me, since it would replace the slave cylinder (even thought it is a V6/GT one) as well as putting a shim into play. I could try a shim on my current GT500 slave cylinder, but if it's the slave itself that is bad, I may blame it on the wrong sized shim and get stuck in a loop of troubleshooting (which would suck, considering the amount of work putting a shim in would be). My only other question on trying your approach is the RAM thing. I thought their piece replaced the entire slave cylinder/TOB?

I'll have the engine out to drop in the forged block (when my back heals), so this is the right time to do something about my dissatisfaction with my shifting. Just want to make sure I'm going about it the right way.

I could also sell my new V6/GT TOB and get another GT500 one to try. But I'd probably use a thinner (harder to find) shim to go alone with it.

Ok, that makes sense.

I'm planning on using a GT500 slave (a new OEM one) when I put my 6060 in. I'll do some measuring first but I plan on shimming it .125 right off the bat and see what happens. If the shim is too much and I am understanding how that Ram "adjuster" works I should be able to simply run it in-line and then dial the pedal engagement point so I am 100% sure that the clutch is completely dis-engaging.

My clutch line(s) are all custom though so jumping that Ram adjuster thing in would be a piece of cake. You wouldn't be able to jump that Ram thing into the stock or FRPP line, but it may work (with some additional fittings) with the JPC clutch line.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I am very interested in this setup, do you have a list of parts or some specs and please, more pictures.

That's actually a pic of my trans. 908SSP's is almost identical. Both of our setups are 100% custom machined on the spot (when we had our transmissions out) and we used fittings, etc we had on hand. There is another "block" on the firewall with the bleeder screws. It couldn't be re-created without having a trans out. We didn't make any drawings or anything. Sorry.

 

[Flapjack]

Ok, that makes sense.

I'm planning on using a GT500 slave (a new OEM one) when I put my 6060 in. I'll do some measuring first but I plan on shimming it .125 right off the bat and see what happens. If the shim is too much and I am understanding how that Ram "adjuster" works I should be able to simply run it in-line and then dial the pedal engagement point so I am 100% sure that the clutch is completely dis-engaging.

My clutch line(s) are all custom though so jumping that Ram adjuster thing in would be a piece of cake. You wouldn't be able to jump that Ram thing into the stock or FRPP line, but it may work (with some additional fittings) with the JPC clutch line.

So what is the RAM part number of the adjuster you're talking about?

Based on this thread, .125 sounds high. Someone else in this thread (with a TR6060) said they started at 1.15, then went down to .080, then down to .060, which was perfect.

 

[Department Of Boost]

So what is the RAM part number of the adjuster you're talking about?

In post #27 I linked it. Here it is again.
http://www.ramclutches.com/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=677

Based on this thread, .125 sounds high. Someone else in this thread (with a TR6060) said they started at 1.15, then went down to .080, then down to .060, which was perfect.

That's the beauty of the Ram adjuster. You can "Over-shim" the slave and if it ends up being too much dial it back with the Ram adjuster to behave as if you are using a thinner shim......without having to pull the trans again.

I'll spend $140 for the Ram adjuster to not have to pull the trans and re-shim it once, let alone 2-3 times.

 

[gil_t2]

I use the ram products, but have not used the adjusted yet. looks cool, I think you guys are making more of this than needed. The more you add to the system { adjusters, bleeding systems}, the more things to have possible problems with. The bleeding setup looks great, but to many fittings to leak. I have never needed any shims when installing all OEM parts, When using any combination of OEM, aftermarket parts. simple measuring and using the proper shim aways worked. Ram has a very good work sheet for measuring preload, or use Fords instructions. As far as bleeding the sys, hand Vacuum pump works every time, takes 5 minuts. And vacuum bleeding will show you any leaks, if the sys will not hold 15" of vacuum.

 

[908ssp]

The ram work sheet only applies if the throw or distance that the fingers move on the pressure plate is always the same. Unfortunately they are not. They should be I grant you that but the well laid plans of mice and men...

 

[gil_t2]

The ram work sheet only applies if the throw or distance that the fingers move on the pressure plate is always the same. Unfortunately they are not. They should be I grant you that but the well laid plans of mice and men...

That is true, The ram work sheet is just a nice visual to make it easy, and to wright down the measurements. It's the same as fords instructions. As long as the preload is with in spec, any difference in the travel of the PP fingers would be insignificant, with a few exceptions. It is still better than blindly putting a shim in, and put it together hopping you used the correct one. There will alway be a couple that will drive you crazy. Look at the problems with the Mcleod Rst this past summer.

 

[908ssp]

I ended up with a .125" shim for my Spec II+ clutch everything else is stock. And it shifts better than new now.