Drag Times with NSR Cams

[2k05gt]

Last year I ran a Consistant 12.4-12.5 with this setup

JLT II CAI (93 Dyno Tune)
Steeda UDP's
Steeda CMDP
JBA Long Tube Headers
JBA Catted X-pipe
FRPP GTA Mufflers
FRPP 4.10 Gears
Spyder Aluminum DS
TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 Converter
CHE Lower Control Arm
Steeda Adj UCA
LPW Differential Cover Girdle
Eaton TrueTrac Locker
275/50x17 M&H Drag Radials

My Best 1/4 Mile Time to date is 12.299 @ 110.06 MPH at a DA of -100

Now I put in a new 5R55S and COMP 127200 NSR Cams,

and I struggled to get this time slip today..
60" - 1.914
330" - 5.424
1/8 - 8.318
MPH - 84.94
1000' -10.846
1/4 - 12.991
MPH - 104.91

Track Elevation: 552 feet above sea level
Air Temperature: 63.0 degrees F
Barometric Pressure: 29.94 inches Hg
Relative Humidty: 60 %
Density Altitude: 1074 feet
Relative Density: 96.9 %

The Car was horrable off the line, I stalled up to 2800 and the car Bogged the entire 60'+ 2 seconds lator it would take off.

I have no Idea what to do now, I switched back to my Dyno tune before cams and I had little improvment, the Air Fuel was at 11.8 I bumped it 6% Lean (Max) and that got me to 12.5 Since it's so Rich I added timing Both Global and for each rpm range, the knock sensors were reading 2900 on the Aeroforce guage.

My Tuner said that the NSR Cams do not require a Tune, he also fixed the O/D off Flashing light issue, said it had to do with the converter locking up and a sensative sensor needed to be adjusted.

So are NSR Cams a Waste, I lost 3/4 of a second ET with them..

I don't want to here "Get BBR" or Hot Rod Cams, Bla Bla, I heard this last year with the COMP Cams.

 

[US-1]

My Best 1/4 Mile Time to date is 12.299 @ 110.06 MPH at a DA of -100

12.99 @ 104.91
Density Altitude: 1074 feet
Relative Density: 96.9 %

Pretty big difference right there. Significant difference in conditions so you really can't compare. However....something else is going on.......

My Tuner said that the NSR Cams do not require a Tune....

And who is your tuner?

 

[Rygen]

I think you need to strap it down for a tune man.

 

[trill gear head]

another +1 for a tune. Case and point, Ford says their FRPP cams don't require cams but some people suffer from horrid idle/driving conditions and it all goes away while others do fine with the stock tune.

 

[2k05gt]

I am going to strap it down and get a tune from a Local, I just am trying to understand why the Mail order tuner would tell me that the NSR's do not require a Tune, yet I am running his Dyno Tune from a year ago before Cams and the Car Falls Flat on it's face. That tells me that they do require a tune, But I bet it can't be a Mail order tune, only a Dyno Tune will work.

 

[psfracer]

with a 3500 stall, you think you would still be ok, even with a more aggressive camshaft profile.

 

[2k05gt]

I think you need to strap it down for a tune man.

I am, I am just short on cash right now, after the Trans replacement and rebuilding the Engine in my Moms Saturn, I am Broke, so I am looking for a work around till I can get a dyno tune.
Tillman, Excessive and Woodbine are all around 300 - 400 for a dyno tune, this may have to wait till next month.

 

[dragpac]

have you checked your plugs,my sons 06 lost a 1/2 second and we couldn't figure it out thought it was in the tune and finally checked the plugs and one was cracked and the car seemed to run smooth but it was down on power.

 

[chad05gt]

changing cams... took me a while too, you have to change your driving; ALOT.

you are hard wired to run in a certin way.... a way you conditioned yourself to squeeze the most out of your last set up.


Now, you are starting over.

Its there, you just have to find it.

DA has ALOT to do with it as well...

A few more passes and better DA will be the only way to judge for sure...

 

[gmantheman]

All things being equal, you improved your E.T by about .20 to .25 seconds. A 12.99 with a D/A of 1100 to 1200' is about a 12.75 to 12.8 at sea level.

 

[2k05gt]

All things being equal, you improved your E.T by about .20 to .25 seconds. A 12.99 with a D/A of 1100 to 1200' is about a 12.75 to 12.8 at sea level.

My Best 1/4 Mile Time was 12.299 @ 110.06 MPH, No Improvment, 3/4 of a Second Loss and 5 miles per hour...

My Average ET's are 12.4 @ 108 at a 1000' DA so again 1/2 second loss

You don't need a tune to run with the cams but you need a tune if you want to race with them.

 

[2k05gt]

have you checked your plugs,my sons 06 lost a 1/2 second and we couldn't figure it out thought it was in the tune and finally checked the plugs and one was cracked and the car seemed to run smooth but it was down on power.

Yes I did today, I pulled them and they look fine, they are a year old.
I cleaned them and checked the gap and re-installed them. Same 2 sec hesitation from 1000 - 3000 RPM


There was this Article Someone pointed me too that peaked some interest since I just had the trans replaced...

One of the biggest mistakes after removing the front 02 sensors on a 05 and newer mustang is re-installing the wiring harness incorrectly. The result is an overly rich condition along with poor idle and part throttle acceleration. We receive calls for this after turbo installs, exhaust installs, clutch installs, and any other time a customer removes the front 02 harness. Ford has located your 02 harness in a location that makes it very easy to mistake the left for the right and vise versa. When you do this the computer will try to compensate the wrong bank of the engine for a 02 signal from the opposite bank. Not only will this make the car drive very terrible but it can make part throttle acceleration at times impossible.

Solution? Check out the image to the right to view the correct factory Ford routing of the 02 harness. You MUST use this routing or your engine will not run correctly. This is the first thing we have customers check after they have removed the front 02 sensors and then reinstalled them to find part throttle and idle engine issues. We have had cars shipped to us from as far as 12 hours away to find out this was what was causing all their troubles after they installed long tube headers. Take the time to confirm you wire the front 02's correctly and GOOD LUCK!

 

[*JZ*]

A: I'd be finding a new tuner, if he told you you don't need a tune

B: Give me a shout tomorrow and I'll see if we can get you a tune e-mailed over you to for your setup and you can test it out and see if it fixes the problem for you.

 

[gmantheman]

My Best 1/4 Mile Time was 12.299 @ 110.06 MPH, No Improvment, 3/4 of a Second Loss and 5 miles per hour...

My Average ET's are 12.4 @ 108 at a 1000' DA so again 1/2 second loss

You don't need a tune to run with the cams but you need a tune if you want to race with them.

I didn't the 12.4 in the top of your OP. I guess you do need a tune. Did you notice if you lost a great deal of low end tq?

 

[ShadyZealot]

I have those same NSR cams you do. Went from running 12.9 to now running 12.1. This was after the cam and longtube install. Feel like the car still has more in it too. All on a mail order tune from bama.

So i wouldnt say they are a waste.

 

[1fastpony]

That article from BrenSpeed is a big no shitter. The first thing I did since this is a hobby to me and not a life style or profession is to mark with a permanent marker each location.

Murphy's Law sometimes shadows me.

 

[KITT]

What gear you running? Maybe you need more gear for the cam? Its an Auto, Just floor it and go, so I dont feel its nothing to do with how your driving it. But a dyno tune will tell you everything and if your shifing to erly or to late. Good luck man

 

[h8imports]

I just ordered those same cams from Doug at BamaChips and He told me i would have to get a new tune when I got them in my car. So you do have to get them retuned. I'm sure Doug at BamaChips can do you a mail order tune.

 

[dragpac]

Last year I ran a Consistant 12.4-12.5 with this setup

JLT II CAI (93 Dyno Tune)
Steeda UDP's
Steeda CMDP
JBA Long Tube Headers
JBA Catted X-pipe
FRPP GTA Mufflers
FRPP 4.10 Gears
Spyder Aluminum DS
TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 Converter
CHE Lower Control Arm
Steeda Adj UCA
LPW Differential Cover Girdle
Eaton TrueTrac Locker
275/50x17 M&H Drag Radials

My Best 1/4 Mile Time to date is 12.299 @ 110.06 MPH at a DA of -100

Now I put in a new 5R55S and COMP 127200 NSR Cams,

and I struggled to get this time slip today..
60" - 1.914
330" - 5.424
1/8 - 8.318
MPH - 84.94
1000' -10.846
1/4 - 12.991
MPH - 104.91

Track Elevation: 552 feet above sea level
Air Temperature: 63.0 degrees F
Barometric Pressure: 29.94 inches Hg
Relative Humidty: 60 %
Density Altitude: 1074 feet
Relative Density: 96.9 %

The Car was horrable off the line, I stalled up to 2800 and the car Bogged the entire 60'+ 2 seconds lator it would take off.

I have no Idea what to do now, I switched back to my Dyno tune before cams and I had little improvment, the Air Fuel was at 11.8 I bumped it 6% Lean (Max) and that got me to 12.5 Since it's so Rich I added timing Both Global and for each rpm range, the knock sensors were reading 2900 on the Aeroforce guage.

My Tuner said that the NSR Cams do not require a Tune, he also fixed the O/D off Flashing light issue, said it had to do with the converter locking up and a sensative sensor needed to be adjusted.

So are NSR Cams a Waste, I lost 3/4 of a second ET with them..

I don't want to here "Get BBR" or Hot Rod Cams, Bla Bla, I heard this last year with the COMP Cams.

what rpmdo you shift at and do you leave it in drive or shift it manual

 

[terry5357]

I just ordered those same cams from Doug at BamaChips and He told me i would have to get a new tune when I got them in my car. So you do have to get them retuned. I'm sure Doug at BamaChips can do you a mail order tune.

I would definitely trust an email tune from Doug as a safe starting point no matter what my mods were.....thats a no shitter and for $60 - $70 yo can't beat that