Eibach Multi Pro R2

Department Of Boost

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Let's say he put it on, didn't have the rubbing issue in front.

The rubbing issue that youre talking about I assume is with the front wheels rubbing the coilovers? If so I have that problem. I had to slide the knuckle all the way out and my camber all the way in to prevent it.

The rubbing issue is the same kind of issue that you run into when you put any aftermarket part next to another. Once you start doing that and things don’t fit perfectly it is the responsibility of the builder to solve it. The Eibach’s will not rub with stock or close to stock size wheels and tires. But when you get some fat tires and rims on there without just the right offset they can rub.

It’s easy to rectify though. You can simply grind the swaybar bracket clamp or take it off and machine it. I went with the latter.

That being said they could have been made so there would not be a clearance issue even with fat wheels/tires.

And along with Eibach’s needing to “fix” the strut mount so it has a bearing, load them up with more appropriate spring rates they should have a step in the instructions that says to check tire clearance.
 

steve13gt

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Eibach did mention if I wanted to add a bearing, they offer a bearing that goes between the spring and spring mount. however its for race applications only as its completely exposed to the elements and needs constant attention
 

Department Of Boost

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Eibach did mention if I wanted to add a bearing, they offer a bearing that goes between the spring and spring mount. however its for race applications only as its completely exposed to the elements and needs constant attention

I wouldn't run without one, but I would run Eibach's either. Get some Maximum Motorsport plates and be done with it.
 

BlackMamba03

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What I'm driving - Nothing yet. :) Building a 2008 for CP Autox.
Where did I get them - Bought them used from Sam Mammano. I'm at least the third owner. They spent time on a Touring RR car. Not sure where else.

I'm looking at getting some double or triple adjustable with piggyback resevoirs from JRZ. Just waiting for them to email me back on if they've got anything for the 2011+ GT's.
 

Norm Peterson

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The rear bar stock and from Eibach for the 2011+ car is BIGGER than it was for the old car, so adding more spring isn't they way to go.
That much I agree with.

What I don't know is if a suggestion for a softer rear bar is buried in "the fine print", or whether the extra rear roll stiffness was intentional for dragstrip reasons (not a very efficient way of going about that, though).

Or even if they just cribbed the wrong numbers off that MVMS file that's been floating 'round the 'net (which look more than a little strange unless there's a ton of OE bushing-induced wheel rate they're not talking about), called them good, and ran with it from there.


Norm
 
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5.0_SD

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I'm looking at getting some double or triple adjustable with piggyback resevoirs from JRZ. Just waiting for them to email me back on if they've got anything for the 2011+ GT's.
Eagerly awaiting your return email from JRZ
 

Sam Strano

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I'm looking at getting some double or triple adjustable with piggyback resevoirs from JRZ. Just waiting for them to email me back on if they've got anything for the 2011+ GT's.

FWIW I can do Motion Control Suspension (MCS) for the car... They have both 2 and 3-way (low and high speed compression + rebound) adjustables for the Mustang. $6100 and $7600 respectively... although I have some room but I can't and won't quote that over email or forums.

Who is MCS? It's all the guys that were formally Moton USA before Moton Europe up and sold the name and such to AST. They have been proving themselves autocrossing, but you'll also find that race shops and teams use them too, places like GMG, and Fall-line, Katech, BimmerWorld, etc.
 

LS1EATINPONY

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The rubbing issue is the same kind of issue that you run into when you put any aftermarket part next to another. Once you start doing that and things don’t fit perfectly it is the responsibility of the builder to solve it. The Eibach’s will not rub with stock or close to stock size wheels and tires. But when you get some fat tires and rims on there without just the right offset they can rub.

It’s easy to rectify though. You can simply grind the swaybar bracket clamp or take it off and machine it. I went with the latter.

That being said they could have been made so there would not be a clearance issue even with fat wheels/tires.

And along with Eibach’s needing to “fix” the strut mount so it has a bearing, load them up with more appropriate spring rates they should have a step in the instructions that says to check tire clearance.
Pics of machining? I have gt500 wheels on right now but I also run RPF1s (same size and offset as gt500 wheels). I'm not really understanding what you're talking about. Sorry if I sound like a complete idiot
 

Department Of Boost

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Pics of machining? I have gt500 wheels on right now but I also run RPF1s (same size and offset as gt500 wheels). I'm not really understanding what you're talking about. Sorry if I sound like a complete idiot

I first ground it down with a grinder while the strut was still on the car and it was doing just fine. But because I was doing a track day I didn’t want to worry about it at all under high deflection and we machined that part out of it.

And before you ask. No, it won’t move because it only has one pinch bolt. The collar is threaded on to the strut then pinched.

IMG_2328.jpg



IMG_2329.jpg
 

Norm Peterson

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I have gt500 wheels on right now but I also run RPF1s (same size and offset as gt500 wheels). I'm not really understanding what you're talking about. Sorry if I sound like a complete idiot
The GT500 wheel runs about 5/16" deeper backspacing than the OE "regular GT" 18" wheel. Essentially, it's an aftermarket product for the S197 chasssi - even on the GT500's where it was stock (I'm betting that Ford was crowding an internal standard or two to get that extra inch of wheel width for the GT500).

FWIW, there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the inside flanges of the GT500 wheels and the Koni Sports. I'd go out and get you a measurement except that I swapped back to my winter setup a couple of days ago.

Then you added the coilovers . . . a second step away from the OE GT, that may or may not have considered the same size and offset wheels that you're running. This doesn't make the coilovers "wrong". Just that there can be unverified combinations.


Norm
 
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OkieSnuffBox

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This doesn't make the coilovers "wrong". Just that there can be unverified combinations.


Norm

See this is strange to me, that a company would design coilovers and not have extra room for wheel/tires as a consideration for the design spec.

That was one of the big reasons on older BMW's we always switched to coilovers. Dramatic improvement for inboard wheel/tire clearance.

Or am I misunderstanding.
 

DILYSI Dave

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FWIW I can do Motion Control Suspension (MCS) for the car... They have both 2 and 3-way (low and high speed compression + rebound) adjustables for the Mustang. $6100 and $7600 respectively... although I have some room but I can't and won't quote that over email or forums.

Who is MCS? It's all the guys that were formally Moton USA before Moton Europe up and sold the name and such to AST. They have been proving themselves autocrossing, but you'll also find that race shops and teams use them too, places like GMG, and Fall-line, Katech, BimmerWorld, etc.

Yep - MCS seems like the real deal. Just one more generation down the JRZ -> Moton lineage.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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See this is strange to me, that a company would design coilovers and not have extra room for wheel/tires as a consideration for the design spec.

That was one of the big reasons on older BMW's we always switched to coilovers. Dramatic improvement for inboard wheel/tire clearance..

Yea, you are on the right track. And to continue on your BMW example, we went to great lengths to be able to run much wider than stock wheels on late model BMWs, and it took the right coilovers and proper spring lengths and swaybar brackets oriented the designed the right way to make this work. One of the common faults of many BMW coilovers was much worse wheel clearance. And of course it isn't strictly just BMW coilovers that have this issue.

Take the E36 M3 shown below. Comes with 17x7.5" front wheels and 225mm wide tires, which are too narrow. Even with stock struts you can fit 8.5" wide wheels up front, but they stagger the wheel widths to ensure massive understeer - safer for the common dirver, but always worse for racing. Nobody with a clue uses "staggered wheels" for racing until they have obscene rear wheel drive power disparities. When we started racing the M3 shown we were using TCKline/Koni double adjustable twin tube coilovers and a 17x8.5" wheel with a 255mm tire. Luckily the folks at TCKline knew one of the tricks to making cars handle included running wider wheels and tires than stock, so they made their coilover strut housing and offered the proper length spring packages to fit the most tire inboard.

CIMG3698-S.jpg
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Left: M3 on 17x8.5" Kosei wheels. Right: M3 on 17x9.5" CCW wheels

This allowed us to replace the stock 7.5" wide front wheels with 8.5" wheels, then 9" wide wheels, then 9.5" wheels, and eventually 18x10" wheels shown above - all under stock fender contours. The car was faster and more competitive each time we upped the wheel width, just like we've seen on the S197, where we've gone from 8" to 9" to 10" to 11" to 12" wide wheels. It got faster every time.

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M3 on 18x10" wheels and 265 then 275mm rubber

Everyone on the internet said it couldn't be done, but we made it happen. The wheels fit, the car was legal, and it was fast. To make other brands of coilovers fit like that would have taken tremendous effort, and in some cases a clean slate redesign. When we flew to Holland in 2006 to negotiate being the North American AST distributor we had already tested their coilovers, which had the same terrible wheel clearance issues that many other coilovers for these cars had - less wheel room.

Sometimes shock makers have a set of variables they work with but don't take everything into consideration, like how different markets (overseas) have different forms of racing, and some racers use wildly different wheel and tire combinations than stock. In Europe there wasn't anything like HPDE, Club level road racing, nor autocrossing. They had weird TUV standards and their customers were either "street pimps" or pro level racers or rallye guys.

When we showed them what American racing was, and explained that their coilovers had too much "stuff" in the way to use anything wider than the wimpy stock 7.5" wheel, they listened. We worked with AST Holland to redesign their "Sportline 1" strut housings completely, and ditching the tender spring, and making a new swaybar bracket. This allowed us to run a shorter spring package, moved the swaybar out of the way, and let us push the wheels inboard another inch and a half. Then we made ever wider custom wheels and then worked with D-Force to make production wheels for these cars so that an 18x10" wheel could fit under the stock fenders, and maximized tire, and won a lot of races with that car.

And we've been doing the same thing with the S197 Mustang the past two years. I am never satisfied with just "buying what is out there" and living with what others offer. There are so many aftermarket parts that are just flat wrong, or poorly made, or that miss these huge variables. Like Eibach has obviously done here. We even modified our Moton Club Sport coilovers to fit more wheel room, because they had giant slots in the lower strut mounts that would always slip, because they made them wrong (yes, the same folks that put the old company in bankruptcy and then started MCS, with the same old drawings and old ideas). The new owners of Moton (who also own AST) have made substantial changes, updates and fixes to the old designs, and it shows. Just because a brand is "well known" and their parts costs LOTS of money doesn't always mean that their stuff will work properly in your situation. Always question everything.

DSC_0692-S.jpg
DSC_0693-S.jpg


So yes, shock makers sometimes miss these variables. Especially Chinese built shocks, like these Eibachs. The spring rates they have are all kinds of wrong, and the top mounts are terrible, and the swaybar bracket is done the worst way possible - a screw on type bracket (that can rotate and screw up a wheel) AND with a giant chunk of metal right where the wheel needs to sit. So many mistakes it is hard to list them all. But they are cheap! And have lots of knobs and hoses and shiny bits, so people buy them. And they say "built in America", and people believe that lie.

So OkieSnuffBox was right - shock makers shouldn't make these fundamental mistakes. There is no excuse for it. But it happens. Learn from others, and remember not only "You get what you pay for" but that sometimes even the big dogs get it wrong. And while I won't ever claim to know everything, but I know enough to always check everything.

Cheers,
 

jymontoya

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... like these Eibachs. The spring rates they have are all kinds of wrong, and the top mounts are terrible, and the swaybar bracket is done the worst way possible - a screw on type bracket (that can rotate and screw up a wheel) AND with a giant chunk of metal right where the wheel needs to sit. So many mistakes it is hard to list them all. But they are cheap! And have lots of knobs and hoses and shiny bits, so people buy them. And they say "built in America", and people believe that lie.


Some people have a hard time with the TRUTH. Preach it Brother!
 

Sam Strano

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My own set as well as all the sets of AST's I sold (and I'm sure Dave Lowum can vouch for this), had a sway bar bracket that was of a very similar design where it was a tab welded to a collar that was pinched onto the threaded portion of the strut. Also they did not have the angle build in either, so when the strut was in the car, there was a lot of angle on the upper end of the pivot of the sway bar link. We should be fair about pointing out things like this. IF AST has changed this, great and I'm glad to know it, but the original solution wasn't even that good. Now that I think about it, it was also not recessed to the rear of the strut, but actually was on the centerline of the strut when viewed from the front or back.

As for the rates. 225/200, there or there about is not at all a weird setup (if it's front/rear and not the other way around) for a nice street setup. I'm not a huge fan of these for other reasons, but spring rate is not one. They are building a kit to make the most folks happy, they aren't building a hard core race kit. Even at that, there are those that compete and win using softer rates (though stiffer than this) than what others think is correct. I know Terry runs stiffer in front and softer in back than what I opted for. To each his own, doesn't make what they did *wrong*. In fact I think what they were trying to do was exactly what a major company has to do for the general public. And I run rates like that all the time on street cars, and many folks here on this site, really like the result. Do I run more on a competition car? Yep. Did we set Dave Lowum's car up with more rate? Yep (BTW, he has, and sold him and helped him setup his AST's. I mention this because I just don't want to hear I have some issue with higher rates, the dampers, whatever).

I ran 18x10 and 18x10.5" fronts on my 5.0 when I ran ESP part time in 2011 with a good old set of Koni's on it. They didn't stick out at all, no trickery required, no custom wheels required. In fact my avatar is my 2011 5.0 on those 18x10.5's with 315 Hoosier's mounted on regular old Koni Sports.
 

zquez

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What kind of rates were you running with the Koni's? I've got Tokico's but I need more spring than my BMR springs have. Im not competing and only do track days so Im having a hard time spending 5k on shocks and struts, although I would happily step up to something intermediate if I had the money.
 

SoundGuyDave

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I can confirm everything Sam said above... The swaybar tabs on the struts are indeed threaded, locked in place with a pinch bolt (works perfectly fine, BTW, under some SERIOUSLY high stresses!), and the only thing I did was to remove one, flip it upside down, and re-install it, just to get the pinch bolts on the side away from the wheel. No drama, no machining, no trickery. Granted, I'm limited to 9.5" wheels, but I have had a set of 18x9.5 +50 offset wheels on there with no clearance issues.

Also, the bracket does indeed sit on the centerline of the strut. Again, no clearance issues, no drama, after three years of HARD tracking.

Sam indeed did sell me the AST setup I use, and did indeed provide INVALUABLE setup info and suggestions. The spring rates were perfect before I went and started changing the car around a bunch, so now I'm in the hunt for some heavier fronts, probably in the 500-600lb range, but that has NOTHING to do with the rates Sam recommended.

Oh, a quick note on spring rates: In "Tune To Win," the author recommends the lightest spring rates you can use and still keep the car from bottoming out on that particular track. I honestly don't have the time or gumption to be swapping around springs on a track-to-track basis, so I'm shooting for a little heavier than is probably optimal for most tracks, to compensate for one pretty choppy one. Again, not a "Sam is afraid of high spring rates" deal. In interest of full disclosure, though, when we were talking spring rates, it was with for a pure competition car, that saw extremely limited street usage, and that the street component should be ignored. Even then, the 350/300 rates are still livable, as long as you dial down the dampers.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again... Losing access to the tech from Sam simply isn't worth the $1.48 that you MIGHT save by trolling the web for the absolute lowest price. All dampers aren't created equal, which is why the AST/Moton/Sachs/Multimatic stuff costs what it does, and Eibach/Koni/Tein cost what they do. In that same way, all post-sales tech is CERTAINLY not created equal, either! If you're in the market for suspension bits, do yourself a favor, and give Sam a call. I did, and I approve this message... ;-)
 

modernbeat

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Oh, a quick note on spring rates: In "Tune To Win," the author recommends the lightest spring rates you can use and still keep the car from bottoming out on that particular track.

That is true for spring rates. But when you lower the car to achieve a better CG and add some aero downforce, the spring rates have to be quite a bit stiffer to keep it from bottoming out.

And if you autocross instead of track it, our testing has found that tuning for quick transitions instead of ultimate grip gives faster course times. And those quick transitions come from some fairly stiff springs.

The stiff springs we use also aren't the most evil things in the world. Using quality large piston dampers that can control those rates at the suspension speed that you see during competition can still provide a decent street ride. Something that small piston twin tube dampers can't quite deliver.
 

steve13gt

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FROM EIBACH, just putting it out there, not saying its true, or that I believe them

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After a bit of research I have also found the OEM spring rates for the 11-13 models. In 2011 Ford moved to a softer rate, while increasing to larger OEM sway bars.
Stock Rates
Front = 122lbs
Rear = 154lbs

As discussed before Spring rates are best tuned to the environment that you are driving the car and your personal liking.
The supplied rates are a 100lb increase from OEM plus the 10 clicks of compression will be more than enough to use as a “baseline” to see if you will need to change the rates down the line
Front = 225lbs
Rear = 250lbs

I will be putting this together tomorrow morning and shipping before the weekend. Hopefully this new spring setup will get you more of what you are looking for.

Thank you.
 

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