Help with Belt issue!

[KITT]

I have a 2.6KB on 18lbs. 8rib set up. 15%OD balancer, 3inch blower pulley, Thumper RRR HD tensioner, Meziere ELE water pump with idler pulley for the KB, still have AC and PS. My problem is this..... The power from the engine is pulling up on the tensioner of course and when I let off to shift it allows the tensioner to slap the tensioner idler into the AC pulley therefore sending the belt to hell and back! LOL It actually left a groove in the 76mm idler pulley. I traded out for a 70mm idler pulley but it fucked up another belt but didnt seem to hit as hard on the idler pulley. I feel as if a smaller idler like the 63mm that comes for the GT500 would solve it. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestion? It only does this in 1 and 2nd gear. I assume 3rd and 4th rev slower and it has time to catch up. I noticed the factory tensioner has a stop on the down stroke but the Thump piece does not. Anyway thanks for any help as I searched but found no one with this issue.

 

[weather man]

Sounds like you need a DOB tensioner. I know their is a thread around here telling how to build one. GMITCH is the expert.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Sounds like you need a DOB tensioner.

Or one of these!

Too bad that is the only one on the planet (prototype) and the production ones won't be ready till spring.

I just sent you a PM on the Frankentensioner though.

 

[luckychance]

adam at st motorsports makes one but its pricey

 

[KITT]

I like that fancy 10rib looking set up! Maybe this will be ready by spring.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I like that fancy 10rib looking set up! Maybe this will be ready by spring.

It will be ready by then. Testing is all done. I've been pounding its guts out for over a year now.

It will probably be a 12 rib setup though.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

No issues with belts doing that, but I'm using a standard size crank pulley on my KB.
Your tensioner may need to be upgraded, to prevent the slack from occurring.

I'm close to that issue on the driver side, where a smaller 70mm or smaller pulley for the top idler would give it more room.

 

[KITT]

It will be ready by then. Testing is all done. I've been pounding its guts out for over a year now.

It will probably be a 12 rib setup though.

This will probably be my fix. Any idea on the price for this? Who is selling it?

No issues with belts doing that, but I'm using a standard size crank pulley on my KB.
Your tensioner may need to be upgraded, to prevent the slack from occurring.

I'm close to that issue on the driver side, where a smaller 70mm or smaller pulley for the top idler would give it more room.

Ive got the Thump RRR HD tensioner now.

 

[stkjock]

Maybe u need a new spring or stiffer rate spring.

 

[KITT]

Maybe u need a new spring or stiffer rate spring.

Yes the Thump piece was mailed back to them today so they can check to see if I got a bad one!

 

[pullmeoverorange]

Thats what I need come on spring

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Yeah me too
I'm willing to be an early adopter...hope the price is going to be right!

 

[Department Of Boost]

hope the price is going to be right!

Me too

They won't be "cheap" though.

That being said I don't see why it has to cost much more than the Steeda/Whipple setup. Sorta.......

There will be a slight price increase over the Steeda/Whipple because Steeda has the advantage of buying off the shelf snouts from Whipple. We are making our own snout that has a larger bearing on the pulley end. And we only use the best bearings, seals, materials, etc. We tested a two piece "jumper" snout setup that re-used the KB snout and added the extra needed but it was hokey/cheezy. That idea went up on the wall of shame.

And unlike the Steeda/Whipple kits black oxide (that's code for rust) fasteners it will have stainless fasteners.

The thing that will make it noticeably more expensive than the Steeda/Whipple kit, and something that we don't see a way around is that it will use a ATI Superdamper. The Steeda/Whipple kit comes with an OEM style damper that is actually what they ship with their underdrive pulleys. At one point we were playing with the idea of using a OEM style damper but we didn't like the inconsistent runout when you put the lower blower pulley on (something the Steeda Whipple kits have problems with). And frankly those style dampers have no place on high dollar, high revvin, high HP motors anyway.


The thing that is going to suck is people that already have 8 rib kits, especially those with OD balancers, are probably going to want to convert back over to a 6 rib setup.

On the plus side you won't think about belts anymore. The belt in that picture has over 2500 very, very hard miles on it. And its in perfect shape. If we decide to go 12 rib (mostly because it would look cool) it will be even tougher.

 

[Diabolical!]

My Whipple 10 rib (non-steeda) solved all of my belt issues. Can't wait to see this KB setup hit the market. 12 ribs is just the kind of overkill I like to see!

 

[TexasBlownV8]

The thing that is going to suck is people that already have 8 rib kits, especially those with OD balancers, are probably going to want to convert back over to a 6 rib setup.

Yeah, that'd be me, although I'm using a stock-size IW balancer. I think the only 6-ribs I have left is the stock crank balancer, lol, and perhaps some idlers.

How will the different KB pulley sizes be addressed?
What affect, if any, will a raised (by 1") blower have on mounting? (I'm using a BBR methanol injection plate under the blower.)

Just some early questions; they can wait

 

[Department Of Boost]

Yeah, that'd be me, although I'm using a stock-size IW balancer. I think the only 6-ribs I have left is the stock crank balancer, lol, and perhaps some idlers.

How will the different KB pulley sizes be addressed?
What affect, if any, will a raised (by 1") blower have on mounting? (I'm using a BBR methanol injection plate under the blower.)

Just some early questions; they can wait

Good questions, we may not think of things that are better planned out now.

You would be getting a new 6 rib standard diameter ATI balancer (that has a 10 or 12 rib blower pulley bolted to it) anyway so you won’t need anything for that.

Pulley sizes will be available for everything from 8psi to the blowers max RPM of 18,000. Not exactly sure right now how the entire range will be covered though. It will either be with one size lower, a bunch of uppers and different length belts or multiple lowers, a bunch of uppers and one belt length. Probably the latter. If we go with the latter it looks like we can use an existing belt size which means people can get extras/replacements from their auto parts store opposed to us.

Provisions for the meth plate are easy as pie. You would just let me know before it gets boxed up and I would put an alternate (taller) mount plate and belt in the box.

Any questions or ideas let me know. This is a pretty complicated piece, we probably haven’t thought of everything.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Great!
I'm using a 2.75" upper pulley at this time.
Using standard size belts is a plus, IMO.

Any possible fitment/spacing issues with aftermarket tanks mounted to the radiator shroud? (distance between shroud and the setup).

 

[Department Of Boost]

Any possible fitment/spacing issues with aftermarket tanks mounted to the radiator shroud? (distance between shroud and the setup).

Things get closer but there are no clearance problems.

 

[psfracer]

Me too


The thing that will make it noticeably more expensive than the Steeda/Whipple kit, and something that we don't see a way around is that it will use a ATI Superdamper. The Steeda/Whipple kit comes with an OEM style damper that is actually what they ship with their underdrive pulleys. At one point we were playing with the idea of using a OEM style damper but we didn't like the inconsistent runout when you put the lower blower pulley on (something the Steeda Whipple kits have problems with). And frankly those style dampers have no place on high dollar, high revvin, high HP motors anyway.

This is very smart and I agree 100%. Another item to consider is if you have enough hp to run this kit, and you race, tech at the track is going to require you have an SFI balancer if you are 10.99 or quicker. The reliability factor for the belt would be worth it alone to me. When I was running 18 psi with a whipple a few years back, I would always bring two spare belts to every race. At $80 each it wasn't exactly cheap over time.

 

[KITT]

After using a laser alignment tool I found the power steering pulley was pressed on a lil to far. This looked perfect to the eye and a straight edge or the old string test. This has solved my belt issues so I thought I would share.