How hard can you launch these cars?

wbt

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Doing a John Force burnout in my auto G8 GXP was never a problem, but as I've stated time after time, I'm still pretty much in the learning curve in racing manuals. I'd rather spend the money for a line lock versus a new clutch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltVqOLZ7xAg

I can understand that. The process looks like:

1. Wet the tires in the water box.
2. Pull forward some.
3. (With a 3.73) put the car in second, dump the clutch and hit the brakes.
4. Finish burnout by letting off the brakes and allowing the car to move forward.

Stage and go.

Because the tires are wet there is no harm to the clutch when beginning the burnout. A dry burnout is an obvious no go which will result in excessive differential clutch and driveline clutch wear.

That is my personal preference vs. using a line lock on these for the most part. Now if you get into a car that has race brakes at all 4 corners, much higher HP, etc., then a line lock is a necessity. :thumb2:
 

OLD_GOAT

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^ at what HP would you say line lock becomes necessary?

My joke was the the new Stangs come with 420 at the crank, that you buy the line lock first.

Actually, all kidding aside, IMHO, I don't have the patience to learn how to get a burnout, plus I've not run into anybody at the track that I would feel comfortable about giving me some coaching. As my linked video indicates, getting a John Force burnout in both my 05 GTO and 09 G8 GXP wasn't a problem at all. Now why did I need a John Force burnout on drag radials?

Let's go back to 12/3/2006 (http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2002434&postcount=1) and it was a cold night with great DA of around -1500. I was having all sorts of problems getting in a good run. One of my buddies who I really respect basically told me to quit f***ing around and do a good burnout. This was an 2005 auto GTO with bolt ons including a 3200 stall and Nitto 555R drag radials. I hooked like a mofo and beat my best ever time by about a tenth.

Since then, I've always been a big believer in getting a really good burnout on drag radials. I may be in the learning curve with the manual Mustang, but on at least 2 occasions my GTO was the fastest bolt on, and my G8 GXP was also the fastest bolt on. This isn't to brag or get involved in a pissing contest, but to show that getting a great burn out to heat up the drag radials has always paid off for me.

...........and at this point in owning my car, around 4 months and 4,000 miles, as far as racing goes I'm still in the learning stages. IMHO spending the $200 for the line lock and $150-200 for the install allows me to heat up the tires in a quick and simple manner. I've also talked to a couple of young guys who were having the same exact problem I was having and they will possibly buy a line lock each. After I get the drag radials, what good is it to have them if I can't heat them properly? The line lock makes this far easier to do. It's also embarrassing to get to the staging lanes and look like some sort of newbie racing wannabe trying to do a good burnout.

Then again, here is a funny story about some brake 'problems' I had one night.

*****************************************************

So, I needed a small allen wrench as I had broken one of mine. Before going to the local Home Depot, I put the old allen wrench in the cup holders and head on out. Since the allen wrench was one of the smaller sizes, I had to wrestle in the cup holder to finally get the old allen wrench out.

I found what I was looking for and got in the car to drive off. I noticed a bit of hesitation as I was backing up, and as I was leaving the lot, I noticed I had to use quite a bit of gas to get moving.

Heading out of the lot and on to a toll road feeder, it felt like the brakes were stuck. I finally made it to the nearest light, about a block or two away, and I could not move forward.

Try as I might, the car just wouldn't move. I turned the motor off and back on, still nothing. The light turned green and the car wouldn't move, and the tires started burning rubber, like I would at the track.

Sometimes it pays to hide the line lock switch better than I did on this car...............

Well........................that won't happen again. :thumb2:

P1020112.jpg
 
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Lupo222

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I suck at burnouts too. Whenever I dump the clutch, I can't get on the brake quick enough or the car just bogs and stalls so I avoid them. Haven't run my brand new DRs but I do have a grantelli line lock laying around waiting to go on the car
 

wbt

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It's all in practice. It takes no more learning to to a burnout without a line lock vs. with. Go through a process/routine, develop muscle memory around it and you are good.

That $350-$400 spent on a line lock would buy just about everything needed to get the rear suspension setup which will result in better traction. I look at the most effective/efficient manner on where to spend money and think the results achieved to date speak for themselves. No line lock on either car and no plans to put one on.

Just my input on the overall topic which is focused on s197's.

You run 1,000HP and you probably need a line lock. ;)

BTW - for a manual trans car you should be running bias ply slicks, not drag radials FWIW.
 

Clipboard

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Push clutch in with left foot
Push on break with toe of right
Rev with the heel of your right foot
Let go of clutch and transfer left foot to break
Etc...

Heel toe that monster
 

fdjizm

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It's all in practice. It takes no more learning to to a burnout without a line lock vs. with. Go through a process/routine, develop muscle memory around it and you are good.

That $350-$400 spent on a line lock would buy just about everything needed to get the rear suspension setup which will result in better traction. I look at the most effective/efficient manner on where to spend money and think the results achieved to date speak for themselves. No line lock on either car and no plans to put one on.

Just my input on the overall topic which is focused on s197's.

You run 1,000HP and you probably need a line lock. ;)

BTW - for a manual trans car you should be running bias ply slicks, not drag radials FWIW.


I used to burnout without a linelock for a while, mastered the brake stand like a boss.
Killed the rear pads, rotors... I bought my line lock for $160 and installed it with the help of a friend, and I love it!
Not sure who spent 400 on a linelock? lol
 

Lupo222

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I used to burnout without a linelock for a while, mastered the brake stand like a boss.
Killed the rear pads, rotors... I bought my line lock for $160 and installed it with the help of a friend, and I love it!
Not sure who spent 400 on a linelock? lol

They were counting installation too
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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I used to burnout without a linelock for a while, mastered the brake stand like a boss.
Killed the rear pads, rotors... I bought my line lock for $160 and installed it with the help of a friend, and I love it!
Not sure who spent 400 on a linelock? lol

Yep. Preserving the rear pads and rotors is more than enough reason to justify them. Not sure of the reason why the line locks are being made out to be ineffective or something. Their prices of 150 to 180 will save you years of rotors and pads if you race enough. I also enjoy then idea of the engine spinning freely. Not being forced to push through the resistance of of the brakes.
 

wbt

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Yep. Preserving the rear pads and rotors is more than enough reason to justify them. Not sure of the reason why the line locks are being made out to be ineffective or something. Their prices of 150 to 180 will save you years of rotors and pads if you race enough. I also enjoy then idea of the engine spinning freely. Not being forced to push through the resistance of of the brakes.

My point was there are alternatives that may be a better bang for the buck which yield better results. The average owner may hit the track 2-3 times a year. That isn't enough passes to blow through pads or rotors.
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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My point was there are alternatives that may be a better bang for the buck which yield better results. The average owner may hit the track 2-3 times a year. That isn't enough passes to blow through pads or rotors.

Well that average we really don't now but I know what you're saying but that does not make the line lock less useful. The line lock to me is not even a 'bang for buck' type of mod. I see it as a functional preventative accessory. But again, I understand what you're saying, but in my personal taste, the benefit of less stress on the engine is something I'd pay twice the price of a line lock for.
 

Blackbird1084

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Line locks are a must for anybody that goes to the track more than a couple of times a year. I'm putting one in my TA and soon my 06'.
 

BMR Tech

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Our car has hundreds of passes on it with no line-lock, we have plenty of brake left.

I do want to put a line-lock on it though...
 

Godzirra

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I launch at 6500
Mt et street 28x12.5
Bolt on 5.0 with 150 shot
Best is 1.52. Average 1.65-1.7 but we have shitty track prep
My car is manual with 3.55 gears. I completely broke the factory trakloc diff after 60ish passes
 

Godzirra

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Our car has hundreds of passes on it with no line-lock, we have plenty of brake left.

I do want to put a line-lock on it though...

My car has 27k miles and around 90 passes, around 70 of them with no line lock. My left rear brakes are toast. No pad left
 

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