If you Drag Race, PLEASE weld your axle tubes.

[Diabolical!]

You have to run a Metco LCA with their Relo Brackets.

I run UPR's rod end LCAs with Metco's relo brackets. I just had to machine 5/16" off of all 4 rear bushings to make them fit. I'm not knocking any other manufacturer's relo brackets (hell, I've got suspension components from just about every major name in the business), but Metco's relo brackets are excellent. The way they fit up and around the axle tube makes them rock solid with absolutely no need for welding. I really wanted an LCA with absolutely no give in the bushings, so I found a way to modify the UPR pieces to make them fit. (Excellent LCAs, by the way.) As for welding the axle tubes, Kelley is absolutely right. It's the best way to keep your axles where they belong. I had it done while I was getting the tabs for the BMR extreme antiroll welded in and it was worth it for the peace of mind alone.

 

[BMR Tech]

Good info sir.

 

[Tre06GTP1SC]

Thanks for the reminder! I read this thread and remembered I've been meaning to do this so I went to a buddies shop and got the job done.

BTW, I have full BMR suspension in the car to include the extreme anti roll bar. It gets driven on the street fully bolted together and have never had any issues. Couldn't be happier with the stuff. 60 ft's in the 1.5 range with QA1 shocks and Eibach drag springs.

 

[Sharad]

Being yall test your parts why not try a set on yalls car and see the results? Share the info with us, i love learning

I asked Jeremy about that yesterday. As you know, he has driven/tested cars all the way down to the 6s in the quarter mile. He said UPR specifically tested relo brackets on 5 different S197s, ranging from 13s to 9s in the quarter, and the relo brackets didn't improve the 60's.

There better be room. We just spent a bunch of money on a few '79 - '04 cars to roll out an entire suspension line.

Once we get to the new facility, I hope the R&D and Engineering on the Torque Arms and Watts Links for '79 - Current, will be expedited.

You won't get any competition from us on TAs and WLs.

Not do be dense, but could this problem occur during hard cornering, such as on a road course or autocross? Or is this mainly caused by launching hard with drag radials or slicks?

I haven't heard of anyone twisting the tubes on the road course or autocross, but I'm not saying it hasn't been done.

 

[Diabolical!]

Good info sir.

No problem. And for anyone wondering, here's proof that suspension components from different manufacturers can play nicely together:

Those are UPR rod-end LCAs mounted in Metco LCA relo brackets after minor fab work and BMR is making a cameo on the left. I also have suspension components by CHE, Strange, and eibach. I'm obviously not a brand loyalist, lol. I carefully look at the slight variations in parts by different manufacturers and decide what is best for me. The only thing that will kill a sale for me is bad customer service, and the guys I buy from are tops in that department.

 

[XtremeStang]

I twisted one tube dumping clutch at 6500 rpm on 10" slick twisted (50 times) one tube and lower control box started to twist also. This is what my local chassis guys did.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Diabolical!]

That's the most serious repair to the LCA front mount that I've ever seen.

 

[GeorgeInNePa]

I twisted one tube dumping clutch at 6500 rpm on 10" slick twisted (50 times) one tube and lower control box started to twist also. This is what my local chassis guys did.

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There's a guy that posts on modularfords that posted pics of what his local shop did. He has Grade8 bolts in those spots and one on the front side. It seemed like a neat idea and a solution to the complaints about welding two dissimilar metals (tube and housing).

 

[BMR Tech]

Or you can buy a 2013 GT500 Rear Axle Housing....I am sure it is cheap. lol

I am little concerned by, "increase axle tube diameter slightly for tighter fit"

Hmmmm..... So, the current cars have sloppy axle tubes?

 

[GeorgeInNePa]

Or you can buy a 2013 GT500 Rear Axle Housing....I am sure it is cheap. lol

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/bmrfabrication/AxleTube_Revision_GT500.jpg


I am little concerned by, "increase axle tube diameter slightly for tighter fit"

Hmmmm..... So, the current cars have sloppy axle tubes?

Word!

 

[GeorgeInNePa]

This is what jeremiahhussey posted over at MF:

"The guy that did this for me is a very well known rear axle guy in the area. We had success with axles done this way in many cars faster than any of us will likely ever run.

ITs a fine thread grade 8 bolt that is drilled and tapped. Its sticks just even with the inside of the tube and of course there is a lock washer on the outside. (No nut on the inside)

If you think about this it puts the tubes in a situation with the center section that will have to direct shear the pieces off, and with the exta pins being grade 8 it adds to that even more."

 

[Bud]

I thought my rear end felt sloppy

 

[Greg Hazlett]

I thought my rear end felt sloppy

Hope you're not a chick!

 

[rayS197]

HaHa! beat me to it. I hope he's not a he? Would be better for a she?

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Sounds like a bad day regardless of the sex....gulp.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I am little concerned by, "increase axle tube diameter slightly for tighter fit"

Hmmmm..... So, the current cars have sloppy axle tubes?

Not really.

Numbers are for (very simplified) illustration purposes only.

It's just a matter of the "standard" 8.8" axle tube press fit not having enough interference for what the GT500 requires. Think in terms of forcing a 3.002" OD tube into a 3.000" ID housing socket. Then make that tube 3.003" OD.

That's not the same thing as having an axle tube ID that's supposed to be 3.002" ±0.001" but only being 2.999" due to poor control of tolerance. Now THAT'S sloppy.


Norm

 

[Godzirra]

Ok so I'm pretty positive that mine is twisted. My rear toe on left side is .42 and on the right it's -.84 sooo it doesn't seem too too bad. Is it possible to weld them where they are at to prevent further twisting and use adjustable lca's to fix em being cockeyed? Because judging by the eye it doesn't look twisted so it's a minimal twisting ATM. Which I don't think would be too bad effect if just welded them as is then used adjustable lca. I may be wrong here but I'm no suspension guru.

 

[Norm Peterson]

That's not 'twisted', it's slightly 'bent' into an 0.42° "toe-out' condition, and the thrust angle is off (0.63°).

You can use adjustable-length LCAs to bring the thrust angle back to zero, but you'll still have the toe-out condition. There are ways of fixing the toe, but they either aren't available at car alignment shops or they involve heat (lots of it).

Out of curiosity and since you know what the rear toes are, what are the rear cambers?


Norm

 

[Godzirra]

-.1 on left and -.4 on right

 

[Godzirra]

My logic was if right side was twisted to where the lca mount sits closer to the front of the car, it would sit further back in wheel well therefore making it cockeyed and throwing toe off. Thus me thinking twisted out of pumpkin an not bent. Also I accidentally lost the hub centric ring on right side so maybe that's messing camber up. Bottom line is how expensive is it to fix this if it is possible. Is it possible to buy a whole new just axle tube and put it in? I'm assuming a guy who builds for rears should be able to fix this?