It's 100+ degrees, time to put a blower on!

[LAStang1234]

LOL holes have been drilled in that hood since the day I installed those hood pins. I had to remove the pins to remove my radiator cover while I was doing the install. Hadn't put them back on in that night picture. You'll note they are there in the daytime picture. Trust me, the only thing I'm scared to put a hole in is my block! Speaking of which, a smaller pulley isn't going to help me avoid that lol. The WG isn't even dumping the boost it's supposed to at the moment. I'm just glad it's still under 10psi with that pulley! When I get the WG issue under control, I'll figure if I can afford to step the pulley down again or not. Before then, I still have the VCT issue to contend with.

Haha ok, couldn't truthfully tell.

 

[Bad06stang]

Thanks man!

Carl Chastain at Dynojet Research does all my tuning. And of course was done on a Dynojet

lol awesome Carl lives in my neighborhood I have talked to the him a few times at midnight mayhem. I plan to have him tune my 5.0 in the future as well since I heard he is very good at what he does. Looks like he got fantastic numbers out of your car!

 

[702GT]

lol awesome Carl lives in my neighborhood I have talked to the him a few times at midnight mayhem. I plan to have him tune my 5.0 in the future as well since I heard he is very good at what he does. Looks like he got fantastic numbers out of your car!

He's never let me down. It just sucks everytime I bring him my car we have a technical hang up. Everybody else seems to have it easy LOL.

Just beware; whatever you build and read online, don't rely on it for solid power numbers. The dyno at Dynojet is a heartbreaker. Elevation and DA in Vegas is shit, not as bad as other places like Denver, but it plays against the power making game. To make it worse that dyno is ridiculously accurate. But if you know Carl, you probably already know this lol.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Yes but unfortunately it feels like I'm towing Darren's car behind me on the freeway. If I floor it Darren's car falls off the trailer, but if I just give it what it should need for passing it's like the trailer has a flat and it won't let me go!

That's funny right thurrrrr......I don't care who you are!!!!!!!!

Redeemed!!!!!

 

[702GT]

LOL Darren. At least I keep your car off the ground in metaphore's!

 

[MGT2009]

I'm confused...what is the purpose of running a wastegate on a centri blower?

 

[Wes06]

basically say you want 7 psi from 1.5k rpm to red line, if you put on a pulley that does 7psi up top it wont be 7 down low, so you run a pulley that is capable of 10-11 psi up top, run the wastegate to dump anything beyond 7psi, therefor you have 7 psi from start to finish. however it can start making excess heat i believe if you run to high a pulley for much lower pressure goal

 

[Kylar]

Awesome thread!! Great job on the install!!

Has anyone done this with a Vortech aftercooled setup? Thats what I am running, not sure where i could put a wastegate if i wanted to do this.

 

[BruceH]

You can only do it on a blow through setup. The waste gate has to be before the maf.

Awesome thread!! Great job on the install!!

Has anyone done this with a Vortech aftercooled setup? Thats what I am running, not sure where i could put a wastegate if i wanted to do this.

 

[702GT]

basically say you want 7 psi from 1.5k rpm to red line, if you put on a pulley that does 7psi up top it wont be 7 down low, so you run a pulley that is capable of 10-11 psi up top, run the wastegate to dump anything beyond 7psi, therefor you have 7 psi from start to finish. however it can start making excess heat i believe if you run to high a pulley for much lower pressure goal

What this guy said right here ^

As an added bonus the turbo guys give you the sideways WTF look when you put the pedal down and the bov shuts, then the wastegate opens LOL.

Awesome thread!! Great job on the install!!

Has anyone done this with a Vortech aftercooled setup? Thats what I am running, not sure where i could put a wastegate if i wanted to do this.

As Bruce stated, it has to be located before the MAF. Problem with the ebay wastegates seems to be spring accuracy and size. They are rather bulky. You could go with a Tial or similar quality compact wastegate, but you still only save so much space. I bounced the idea of welding an extension pipe to the boost pipe and locating the wastegate somewhere more clever, but I didn't want to push my time table. In theory you could get away with more "do's and don't's" for wastegates on a centri than you can with a wastegate on turbo. Turbo guys aren't trying to relieve pressure on a system, they're trying to control (or divert, usually) the volume of flow to the turbo so as not to spin the turbo more than desired. This is why they need optimal flow paths for the WG in their hot side piping. Such as a "y" design. You can get away with a perpendicular "T" fit up on a centri (how most BOV's are mounted) because we don't neccessarily care as much about volume as we do system pressure. As soon as the system bleeds pressure from any point, all pressure in the system is reduced. So in theory you could weld say 1-7/8" pipe right after the blower outlet and route it to a wastegate, and it should relieve pressure and allow for boost control. I'm just not positive on the math. No matter what, you do have to reduce enough volume in the system in order to reduce pressure. Pressure travels to the path it can escape the fastest with least resistance. As long as you're not a draw type MAF setup, it can be done.

 

[TotoGT06]

Gezz pulley/belt combos cost a good penny. About $200 for a new one

 

[Kylar]

You can only do it on a blow through setup. The waste gate has to be before the maf.

What this guy said right here ^

As an added bonus the turbo guys give you the sideways WTF look when you put the pedal down and the bov shuts, then the wastegate opens LOL.



As Bruce stated, it has to be located before the MAF. Problem with the ebay wastegates seems to be spring accuracy and size. They are rather bulky. You could go with a Tial or similar quality compact wastegate, but you still only save so much space. I bounced the idea of welding an extension pipe to the boost pipe and locating the wastegate somewhere more clever, but I didn't want to push my time table. In theory you could get away with more "do's and don't's" for wastegates on a centri than you can with a wastegate on turbo. Turbo guys aren't trying to relieve pressure on a system, they're trying to control (or divert, usually) the volume of flow to the turbo so as not to spin the turbo more than desired. This is why they need optimal flow paths for the WG in their hot side piping. Such as a "y" design. You can get away with a perpendicular "T" fit up on a centri (how most BOV's are mounted) because we don't neccessarily care as much about volume as we do system pressure. As soon as the system bleeds pressure from any point, all pressure in the system is reduced. So in theory you could weld say 1-7/8" pipe right after the blower outlet and route it to a wastegate, and it should relieve pressure and allow for boost control. I'm just not positive on the math. No matter what, you do have to reduce enough volume in the system in order to reduce pressure. Pressure travels to the path it can escape the fastest with least resistance. As long as you're not a draw type MAF setup, it can be done.

Awesome thanks for the info guys! Looks like ill have to wait until I can convert to a blow through style MAF as I am running the stock style now

 

[702GT]

Gezz pulley/belt combos cost a good penny. About $200 for a new one

$80 for my 4.00" pulley from JPC and 69-5/8" 8 rib belt from local auto parts store was $42. For the difference in belt lengths between the 4.25 and 4.00 pulley I probably could have just used the full adjustment of the procharger tensioner and kept the 70" belt on it. I didn't like being maxed out on the arm though.

 

[TotoGT06]

Too bad they don't have my 12 rib. Procharger and Brutespeed are the only ones I've seen selling them

 

[Ingwe]

Without a doubt the FRPP would extend the power range to the right and bump peak horsepower. It would also move where torque comes in to the right. It really was a tough decision. To make up for the FRPP's torque loss you've got to bring boost in sooner which means running even smaller pulleys or over-driving the crank pulley. I didn't want to try to bleed 20psi on a 7psi spring via WG just to see 7psi sooner. Also you start to do battle with higher IAT's running the smaller pulleys. Didn't make sense for my application when my goal was ~450whp/450wtq. The car makes 300ft/lbs by 2k/rpm, 400ft/lbs by 3k/rpm. It's a not so subtle swift kick in the ass lol, it feels so nice. Remember I used to make 320ft/lbs by 5,000rpm! Big change for me.

Drawing air from the rear engine bay didn't bother me. Sure it heat soaks standing still, so does the IC. As soon as you're rolling the air temps drop in the engine bay, and the IC does the rest. I see 110 IAT's with the A/C running driving 25-35mph when it's 103* ambient. Sitting at a light she climbs to 115-120*. The highest IAT's I've seen so far were on the dyno. It was 100* ambient and 115* IAT. A back to back pull yielded 127* IAT. The highest was 137* IAT. Haven't seen anything close to that on the street yet.

As far as gear choice, even BruceH said I should stay 4.10. But having driven on 4.10's for the past 5 years I was tired of the 3,000rpm freeway cruise. And with the big red race valve that blow dryer would get old real fast! My priorities changed, I wasn't concerned with making it as fast as it could possibly be, but as much fun as it could be! I should run 4.10's, it would bring more torque in down low, just doesn't give me the cruise I want. Personal choice.

I found pretty much the same with my D1SC iat wise. The rear mounting of the cai had no appreciable difference because the air goes through an intercooler.

A friend of mine contacted Procharger about the air intake location. They told him that they did fab up one that was mounted low in the bumper area. The result was a 5* drop in iat. Not enough to justify the cost of full scale production.

Like you said the Procharger doesn't come in slowly. The 4.1 drive ratio builds boost fairly quick, quicker than my Paxton at 3.6 did. I'd say the power felt like it came on about half way between where it did with the Paxton and Whipple. It's a nice powerband imo.

Good stuff. Thanks a lot for the info guys. Still gutted I didn't have the cash when Bruce was selling his set up.

 

[702GT]

Resurrecting this for an update on my VCT issues. I bought a 3v timing kit w/phasers and new solenoids from Tasca. Did the install last night. Here are some differences I noticed between my phasers and the new phasers. I feel this may be why they're out of control.


Original Phasers w/ Comp Limiters:

New Phasers installed:

If you notice the new phaser has a dowel holding the spring out. While my original phasers do not. As I wasn't there for the Comp Limiter install on my phasers, I can't be certain if the back plate was swapped without incident. I'm thinking that is where my VCT has lost function. Which means I've had no VCT control for the last 4 years and that is responsible for the issues I've had with my old N/A setup. Although I have no datalogs on hand to prove cam angle. I'll have to wait for my tuner to dig through them. We think because of the N/A cams and intake manifold I was running that it masked the issue. On my current setup the issue sticks out like Darren's car in a Walmart parking lot. You can't miss the powerband falling on it's face at 5200rpm on a 3v and not ask the question, WTF?

I'll be buttoning the car up tonight and taking it for a test run with the VCT back on in the tune, and see if it will hold the 2.5 degrees it's supposed to. If that all works out, it's back to the dyno again to let this D1 huff some numbers.

 

[BruceH]

It's a newer design. I noticed the same thing when I put my current motor together last fall. The older phasers I replaced didn't have it.

Resurrecting this for an update on my VCT issues. I bought a 3v timing kit w/phasers and new solenoids from Tasca. Did the install last night. Here are some differences I noticed between my phasers and the new phasers. I feel this may be why they're out of control.


Original Phasers w/ Comp Limiters:

New Phasers installed:

If you notice the new phaser has a dowel holding the spring out. While my original phasers do not. As I wasn't there for the Comp Limiter install on my phasers, I can't be certain if the back plate was swapped without incident. I'm thinking that is where my VCT has lost function. Which means I've had no VCT control for the last 4 years and that is responsible for the issues I've had with my old N/A setup. Although I have no datalogs on hand to prove cam angle. I'll have to wait for my tuner to dig through them. We think because of the N/A cams and intake manifold I was running that it masked the issue. On my current setup the issue sticks out like Darren's car in a Walmart parking lot. You can't miss the powerband falling on it's face at 5200rpm on a 3v and not ask the question, WTF?

I'll be buttoning the car up tonight and taking it for a test run with the VCT back on in the tune, and see if it will hold the 2.5 degrees it's supposed to. If that all works out, it's back to the dyno again to let this D1 huff some numbers.

 

[702GT]

Well shit.

 

[702GT]

For whatever reason, changing the phasers and/or solenoids worked. Took the car for a test run and saw VCT making good cam angle everywhere it should. So it's back to the dyno!