lets talk alignments, i just got mine done.

[deputyperk]

so on my 2008 i have frpp "p" springs, frpp dampeners, GT500 LCAs, and i used the stock dampener knuckle bolts. FRPP included the cam bolt incase adjustment was needed but i decided i prob wouldnt need it. you can be the judge of that though. so here are my specs....

Before

After

 

[deputyperk]

remmeber this is with no camber bolts or plates, do you think i still need them? will this setup wear tires fast?

 

[Vapour Trails]

I would call that moderate camber, you might see a bit of extra wear on the inside. I'm at -1.7 and saw slightly uneven wear, but nothing I would get alarmed about given I rotate front to back.

I'd like to see each side more or less even though.

 

[sean858]

Camber should be squarer. That setup will drift to the right a bit.

 

[Kaldar142]

Camber should be squarer. That setup will drift to the right a bit.

Camber won't really cause a car to pull, now caster and toe surely will. i agree though, camber should be closer together but not bad for no bolts / plates.

FWIW, i run -2.5 in my Stang have no excessive wear. If you corner hard often, the negative camber will actually help tire wear.

-2.4 front and -2.2 rear on my miata and no excessive inside wear.

Oddly enough, my Z06 with -2.0 F / -1.5 R is having tire wear issues, but i'm also running quite a bit of toe out.

 

[3vs197]

more than a half degree of cross camber can certainly cause a pull. i had mine at -1.8-2 and had wear issues and then switched to -1.2 and its all good. didn't notice a difference in handling. and what do you guys run for toe?

 

[sean858]

Uneven camber will surely cause a car to drift to the side that is the most positive or least negative but no it won't cause a pull. Caster can cause a pull but that's pretty rare. Toe will never really cause a pull or a drift unless something is pretty messed up or bent. Toe will cause the steering wheel off center more often than not.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Agreed on all points. Caster will certainly cause a pull if the split is large enough, cross-camber can also cause a pull, but not as strongly, and toe, because it's self-centering, will not cause a pull, but can cause dodgy behaviour. If you're carving corners on a regular basis, you're going to want around 1/8" toe-out, if not, around 1/16" toe-in will be the most stable, and cause the least wear. For a road-bound car, I would consider -1.2* camber to be the absolute max, and I would want the differential kept to under 0.2*. Please note that the factory does NOT allow for any adjustments other than toe, however, without slotting the struts or running camber plates or bolts, there is a little wiggle room there. Loosen the strut-to-knuckle bolts, and shove the strut around a bit and you can pick up a touch here and there, ditto with the four nuts on the strut bearing up top. Do that first, then set the toe.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

+1. I think the camber difference is a little too great. Within "specs", but the tires are actually at slightly different angles to the road now, with the -1.2* one at a steeper angle.

 

[3vs197]

generally speaking. more than .5 degrees of cross camber will cause a pull. i just did my alignment today and set camber to -1 degree, caster to 7.5 and toe to about -.02 degrees. should be perfect and not wear the tires at all.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I would call that moderate camber, you might see a bit of extra wear on the inside. I'm at -1.7 and saw slightly uneven wear, but nothing I would get alarmed about given I rotate front to back.

+1 this alignment with only -1.2 camber is not going to gain you much in performance on a road course. I would bump the negative camber to -1.7 (I use the same setting) which is a great compromise between daily driver and road course. IMHO, -1.7 is considered moderate.