lowering springs worth it on brembo package?

PBstallis

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will fords 1" lowering springs hurt the handling on brembo cars? I'm just assuming the brembo cars are equipped with specific springs and shocks and that if i lowered it would some how hurt handling, I'm hoping that some one will know the spring rates and such,

I came from a saturn ion redline and I know that when the new turbocharge cobalt came out that the stock springs on there where better than any aftermarket,so I'm thinking there maybe something similar here, and yes I feel this is for tech not chit chat
 
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J.Kidd

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will fords 1" lowering springs hurt the handling on brembo cars? I'm just assuming the brembo cars are equipped with specific springs and shocks and that if i lowered it would some how hurt handling, I'm hoping that some one will know the spring rates and such,

I came from a saturn ion redline and I know that when the new turbocharge cobalt came out that the stock springs on there where better than any aftermarket,so I'm thinking there maybe something similar here, and yes I feel this is for tech not chit chat

I don't believe the shocks/struts/springs are any different on a Brembo Package equipped car than on any other GT. I do know that the traction control programming has a more "aggressive" limit on the Brembo cars, but other than that, the brake equipment on the front and the special rims, I believe that is it.
 

Modshack

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will fords 1" lowering springs hurt the handling on brembo cars? I'm just assuming the brembo cars are equipped with specific springs and shocks and that if i lowered it would some how hurt handling, I'm hoping that some one will know the spring rates and such,

A few thing you should be aware of.... I have the FRPP 1" springs on my car. Handling and ride is generally improved, but I felt a better quality shock was necessary to properly deal with the increased spring rate, so eventually added Tokico "D" specs to the suspension and all is quite good now. There's a chance you'll need to add an adjustable Panhard bar as well as the rear axle will shift to the left 1/4-3/8ths of an inch. You'll also need to readjust the front Toe settings to accomodate the drop. The springs improve the looks quite a bit....Many folks just do it for that and don't care about the other changes necessary to make it right.

stripesig-vi.jpg
 

PBstallis

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A few thing you should be aware of.... I have the FRPP 1" springs on my car. Handling and ride is generally improved, but I felt a better quality shock was necessary to properly deal with the increased spring rate, so eventually added Tokico "D" specs to the suspension and all is quite good now. There's a chance you'll need to add an adjustable Panhard bar as well as the rear axle will shift to the left 1/4-3/8ths of an inch. You'll also need to readjust the front Toe settings to accomodate the drop. The springs improve the looks quite a bit....Many folks just do it for that and don't care about the other changes necessary to make it right.

stripesig-vi.jpg
so the brembo package doesn't have different springs or dampers than the base gt? and your saying I couldnt just install the drop springs and call it a day because the rear axle would be moved over? I just understand how the rear end moves from lowering
 

J.Kidd

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so the brembo package doesn't have different springs or dampers than the base gt? and your saying I couldnt just install the drop springs and call it a day because the rear axle would be moved over? I just understand how the rear end moves from lowering

Correct. The panhard bar is a just a bar that connects a bracket on the right side of the underbody and to a bracket on the left side of the axle housing. Its length is determined by centering the axle and ride height. If you think of the axle has the horizontal line on a triangle and the panhard bar as the hypotenuse, the distance between where the panhard bar attaches to the body and the axle will change when you change ride height (since the lowering springs lower the body). Since that bar is a set length based on the previous ride height, things shift to compensate.

OR

Take a yard stick and lean it against at wall so it touches 12" up from the floor. Mark where the other end is on the floor. Now slide it down the wall so it is only 11" up from the floor - the part on the floor MUST shift to allow that. If you have an adjustable piece, you can then maintain the point on the floor while raising and lowering the point on the wall.

Hope that is relatively understandable.
 

PBstallis

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Correct. The panhard bar is a just a bar that connects a bracket on the right side of the underbody and to a bracket on the left side of the axle housing. Its length is determined by centering the axle and ride height. If you think of the axle has the horizontal line on a triangle and the panhard bar as the hypotenuse, the distance between where the panhard bar attaches to the body and the axle will change when you change ride height (since the lowering springs lower the body). Since that bar is a set length based on the previous ride height, things shift to compensate.

OR

Take a yard stick and lean it against at wall so it touches 12" up from the floor. Mark where the other end is on the floor. Now slide it down the wall so it is only 11" up from the floor - the part on the floor MUST shift to allow that. If you have an adjustable piece, you can then maintain the point on the floor while raising and lowering the point on the wall.

Hope that is relatively understandable.
yeah u made it real simple for to understand thankyou
what I dont understand then is why in fords handling pack that I'm thinking of getting they dont mention anything about that or have anything to address this issue
 

Sam Strano

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Don't worry about wrecking the handling if you lower the car. You could if you just randomly pick parts.... but I've done a number of cars (and I myself own a 2011 Brembo car), as well as know the springs rates and the rates of most of the lowering springs.

Generally the front springs will go up more in rate than the rears but that does vary as some companies us a very stiff rear spring. I prefer something little more sane, and I do a lot of Steeda Sports (just got a big shipment in yesterday in fact). Please note there are two versions of those springs and most places sell them interchangeably. I will only use one version of them for a number of reasons (weight, spring rate, quality control).

I also know the stock spring rates and how they stack up and how the car acts on them in comparison.

Happy to help if you want to give me a call. I can also talk with you about other items the panhard bars and anything else you'd like.
 

Intervention

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I love my 1" lowering springs. Couldn't be happier

DSC_000512.jpg


They are the Steeda Ultralites
 

JDM74

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Don't worry about wrecking the handling if you lower the car. You could if you just randomly pick parts.... but I've done a number of cars (and I myself own a 2011 Brembo car), as well as know the springs rates and the rates of most of the lowering springs.

Generally the front springs will go up more in rate than the rears but that does vary as some companies us a very stiff rear spring. I prefer something little more sane, and I do a lot of Steeda Sports (just got a big shipment in yesterday in fact). Please note there are two versions of those springs and most places sell them interchangeably. I will only use one version of them for a number of reasons (weight, spring rate, quality control).

I also know the stock spring rates and how they stack up and how the car acts on them in comparison.

Happy to help if you want to give me a call. I can also talk with you about other items the panhard bars and anything else you'd like.

I got the Steeda Sports as reccomended by sam and I couldn't be happier. The ride is not harsh and I gave up nothing but the 4x4 stance from the stock springs. I did put on a UMI adjustable panhard bar to re-center the axle.

frontview2011big.jpg
 

Greg Hazlett

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Jason-your car looks great! Love that color..hmmm..think I am biased?
 

PBstallis

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Don't worry about wrecking the handling if you lower the car. You could if you just randomly pick parts.... but I've done a number of cars (and I myself own a 2011 Brembo car), as well as know the springs rates and the rates of most of the lowering springs.

Generally the front springs will go up more in rate than the rears but that does vary as some companies us a very stiff rear spring. I prefer something little more sane, and I do a lot of Steeda Sports (just got a big shipment in yesterday in fact). Please note there are two versions of those springs and most places sell them interchangeably. I will only use one version of them for a number of reasons (weight, spring rate, quality control).

I also know the stock spring rates and how they stack up and how the car acts on them in comparison.

Happy to help if you want to give me a call. I can also talk with you about other items the panhard bars and anything else you'd like.
I'll be giving you a call next week sometime
 

GroverDill

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Guys with the 1" lowering springs.

Will I need C/C plates?
Can I add the APHB later without problem?
Stock shocks/struts ok?

I am trying to go slow with the mods yet give the car the few small missing touches that Ford did not.

I have a JLT and Brenspeed tune in the mail, I want to lower it just a little as this car is going to get driven a lot.

Which springs offer a nice ride with a perfomance feel? I had a Mach 1 and a TBSS and I ruined them both by lowering them. They looked great but the ride was horrible in both. Simply put I will not give up ride quality for looks in this car. I am worried I will mess it up changing any suspension parts. I alos dont want to spend a ton of cash if not needed.

If it matters the car is a BBP car and I will be keeping the stock wheels.
 

Twinscrewgt

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the panhard bar isnt crucial... its just your rear end wont be centered. CC plates should always be a must unless you want wear on your tires, Shocks and struts will be fine.
 

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