Man Without a Country?

[jsimmonstx]

Oil pressure isn't needed for car to run without codes (I've already replaced it with aftermarket gauge).

Can't use the stock alternator, but adapting a 94/later shouldn't be an issue.

CHT sensor probably isn't needed either - a tuner can be used to turn off codes (from what I understand), but I might be able to retain the CHT sensor by drilling/tapping the a head and simply plugging it in. If any of that plan goes awry, I'll just rip out the dash and replace the cluster with all aftermarket stuff.

 

[lito]

I was no meaning codes, you will have codes, a lot of them, so many that you will have to turn the whole light off pretty sure, I meant dash, if you don't solve the CHT thing, you will have a weird display off engine temp and probably a red light and/or message center error, the same with the alternator and the oil stuff (if you grounded the wire your are probably good to go on the pressure side, level needs something similar). A 94 alternator is not PCM compatible.

 

[jsimmonstx]

I was no meaning codes, you will have codes, a lot of them, so many that you will have to turn the whole light off pretty sure, I meant dash, if you don't solve the CHT thing, you will have a weird display off engine temp and probably a red light and/or message center error, the same with the alternator and the oil stuff (if you grounded the wire your are probably good to go on the pressure side, level needs something similar). A 94 alternator is not PCM compatible.

We are already planning on turning off the check engine light. I don't know the nature of the CHT (does it go in a water passage or just into the aluminum?), but I'm certain we can get close to whatever it's supposed to read. He'll, I don't even know where it is on the stock engine, but I'm guessing driver's side near the front of the motor.

I grounded the oil sensor wire and don't get a light.

Regarding the alternator, the original one won't mount up (that I know of), so what would you suggest?

 

[lito]

It screws into the cylinder head but I don't think it touches coolant at all, probably fixing it to a hot section would do, is a matter of testing, just to find a way it settles around the middle so it won't bother you, think you will have your own coolant gauge.

The level sensor should be grounded to the signal ground is my guess.

The alternator is PCM controlled, probably a 3V unit would do, they share com and mon lines, the thing is that you need a big alternator (stock is big but do not recall how big, 160A probably) due to the EPAS.

 

[jsimmonstx]

It screws into the cylinder head but I don't think it touches coolant at all, probably fixing it to a hot section would do, is a matter of testing, just to find a way it settles around the middle so it won't bother you, think you will have your own coolant gauge.

Yeah, I already do have an aftermarket gauge, but I left the CHT connected because I thought it might throw the ECU into freak-out mode if I didn't keep it. I figured that since the ECU is only going to be used for the tach and EPAS, it didn't matter if the ECU threw codes (we're gonna turn all that stuff off with my tuner).

We're going to try to run without it, but if that doesn't work, well, I suppose we'll have to find a solution. The sensor itself checks the temperature of the metal and infers the coolant temperature, so if we wanted to keep it, we would simply drill/tap the back of one of the heads and we'd be golden.

BTW, I found this link regarding the Ford CHT - http://www.searchautoparts.com/moto...ng-fords-cylinder-head-temperature-cht-sensor

The level sensor should be grounded to the signal ground is my guess.

Are you talking about the fuel level? We're keeping the OEM fuel hats, and modifying the one on the passenger side to include a return line.

The alternator is PCM controlled, probably a 3V unit would do, they share com and mon lines, the thing is that you need a big alternator (stock is big but do not recall how big, 160A probably) due to the EPAS.

Wow, 160-amp.... I'm gonna have to look around and see if they even make one that big.

 

[lito]

PCM will not "freak out", ultimate test is the rolling downhill I told you, the thing is cluster may and message center with it, just suggesting so you wont have a christmas tree in front of you.

With level I refer to oil level, there is a sensor in the pan according to the manual.

Stock alt is 150A, EPAS has a huge in line fuse, it uses quite some power to help rotate the wheels stopped.

What you won't be able to avoid will be EVAP errors in your dash.

 

[jsimmonstx]

Stock alt is 150A, EPAS has a huge in line fuse, it uses quite some power to help rotate the wheels stopped.

Is that at idle or max? The 94-95 alt is 130 idle, 160 max.

With level I refer to oil level, there is a sensor in the pan according to the manual.

I found out that there's no indicator on the dash that says "low oil". All the sensor does is set the oil change warning counter (or some nonsense like that). It's not a problem to mod the pan to keep it, if necessary.

What you won't be able to avoid will be EVAP errors in your dash.

EVAP? You mean from the charcoal canister? How am I gonna get EVAP errors when I'm keeping the fuel system essentially unchanged (adding a return line and turning off the stock regulator)?

 

[lito]

I don't know what is the spec, that's Ford spec, is bigger than a 3V which was bigger than a 2V one.

The EVAP is not only related to the fuel system, is related to the engine too, the fumes are burnt by the engine, that is why you have a valve that is duty cycled for this, if you don't solve this (probably just can't) you will have the check gas cap or similar messages on the message center every time. Don't know if the PCM will DC the valve with the engine off.

 

[jsimmonstx]

I don't know what is the spec, that's Ford spec, is bigger than a 3V which was bigger than a 2V one.

The EVAP is not only related to the fuel system, is related to the engine too, the fumes are burnt by the engine, that is why you have a valve that is duty cycled for this, if you don't solve this (probably just can't) you will have the check gas cap or similar messages on the message center every time. Don't know if the PCM will DC the valve with the engine off.

You're gonna have to be a lot more specific, because I'm at a complete loss as to what systems are in place, and only have the exploded parts diagrams from a Ford parts site to go by.

When you say "have a valve", are you talking about the purge valve in the emissions system?

I suppose that if I get such an indicator on the instrument cluster, I could just paint over the offending indicator with some flat black paint and call it a day...

 

[jsimmonstx]

Ordered QuickFuel BQD-850 carb, water pump and assorted AN fittings.

I've now ordered pretty much everything for the engine except pulleys and brackets.

 

[jsimmonstx]

Parts I ordered last week have been delivered. Gonna go check it out after work.

EDIT ===============

Everything except the block, and I still haven't received the rotating assembly.

 

[claudermilk]

Right, so nothing important....

 

[jsimmonstx]

Right, so nothing important....

Well, without the little parts, the big parts don't mean squat...

 

[jsimmonstx]

A couple of notes for those who want to do the same swap:

0) A little note regarding the Accufab BT210 headers - if you're using AFR heads, there are two bolt patterns on the exhaust side. If you get the BT210 headers, you have a choice of which bolt pattern to use. If you choose the wider bolt pattern (to avoid having to dimple the primaries at the flange), it's going to cost an extra $45 for the headers. On a side note, off-the-shelf headers typically aren't available for the wider bolt pattern, and that's why it's so hard to find appropriate headers (in terms of primary size). Accufab builds the headers when they're ordered

1) If you go with the BMR 351w engine swap K-member, you will not be able to keep the EPAS because it's simply too big to fit between the two oil pan humps that fall on either side of the K-member cross bar. At this point, you have two options for steering - a) 2005-2010 hydraulic steering, or b) a manual steering rack (#FR1515) from Flaming River. If you go with the manual rack, be aware that you also need to purchase a steering shaft u-joint (#FR1709DD) to mate the rack to the steering shaft. Both of the listed options will cost about the same, so money isn't really a factor in the decision-making process..

 

[psfracer]

^^^I went with the flaming river rack. In parking lots it can be a challenge but its not too bad because of the skinnys that I run up front. But in a street car with wide rubber up front, it could be a lot harder. Just keep that in mind.

At speed manual steering on the road is absolutely fine. Just parking lots and tight spaces could pose issues.

 

[jsimmonstx]

^^^I went with the flaming river rack. In parking lots it can be a challenge but its not too bad because of the skinnys that I run up front. But in a street car with wide rubber up front, it could be a lot harder. Just keep that in mind.

At speed manual steering on the road is absolutely fine. Just parking lots and tight spaces could pose issues.

I used to drive a 65 fastback with manual steering, so I'm aware. I figure with an aluminum flywheel and heads, and a tubular k-member, I'm going to be removing a lot of weight from the front of the car. If it's too hard to steer, I supposed I'll eventually convert to hydraulic power steering.

 

[psfracer]

Yeah, its all relative. Young folks used to new cars would probably find it hard, but you and I used to the old cars its no big deal.

 

[jsimmonstx]

Yeah, its all relative. Young folks used to new cars would probably find it hard, but you and I used to the old cars its no big deal.

Yeah, them young-uns'....

 

[NEMustang]

Nascar Yates/Penske 362

Just found this thread...subscribed!

Here is my brother's S197 with 830HP AT 9,000PRM Nascar Yates/Penske 362 ci:

 

[rojizostang]

more pics more pics /\/\