McLeod clutch line install help.

[golkhl]

Going to be installing a McLeod clutch line soon, what is recommended for the threads that connect the line to the fittings? Teflon tape, or permatex high temp thread sealant? Also for anyone that has done this install, any tips, tricks, advice?

 

[pics06gtstang]

not needed , the aftermarket clutch lines just push in and the lock clip
holds them in !
No teflon or tape ( it wonders to bad places ), always use red lock tit .

 

[golkhl]

The McLeod line must be assembled before install. Do i install the threaded ends dry, or does it require a thread sealant?

 

[skwerl]

The threads are not where the seal is. The seal is on the tapered part of the tip. No thread sealant necessary. Assemble like any other hydraulic line, simply torque properly and go.

 

[golkhl]

Sounds good, thank you skwerl.

 

[JeremyH]

+1 no sealant required.

 

[BruceH]

FWIW pipe threads are designed to seal when torqued without any other goop needed. To really insure a good seal I'd torque it once, back off, and torque a second time. This distorts the threads close to where they should be on the first torque and insures a leak proof junction on the second torque.

If you don't have a torque called out there are a few options on how to select the correct value. One is to search the thread pitch and diameter, something will come up for hydraulic fittings. If that doesn't help then there is the two flats method. On a 6 sided B nut you finger tighten until the shoulder makes contact, once the shoulder is engaged turn the nut an additional two flats or 120 degrees.

If there is any kind of rubber or other insert/gasket involved (anything other than metal to metal) then don't do the two flats method, it will destroy an o ring or other gasket. Likewise if brass or some other soft alloy is involved you will need to contact the manufacturer for proper torque value.

 

[JUSTA3V]

Are you talking about NPT Bruce? National pipe thread?

Because working in the oilfield for 20 years we always used Teflon tape to seal NPT threads.

 

[BruceH]

Are you talking about NPT Bruce? National pipe thread?

Because working in the oilfield for 20 years we always used Teflon tape to seal NPT threads.

I sure did type pipe thread didn't I? Lol. I was thinking one thing and typing another. What are the threads used for holding hydraulic or air pressure, are they UNC?

 

[golkhl]

Thank you for the info., will be doing the install monday.

 

[cgornowich]

I added this exact line set to my Mustang two days ago. The hardest thing is simply accessing the connections. The right angle one at the slave cylinder is easiest with a long, right angle pick. I removed this piece, and installed it on to the new line set, and lowered into place from the top, then crawled under the car and attached the right angle piece to the slave cylinder. As for the top connection, I found unbolting the AC accumulator (I think that's what it it) and sliding it out of the way helpful. Use duct tape on the holes in the sheet metal so if you drop the clip it does mean you remove the fender (don't ask why...). Lastly, you really have to push the connector into the fitting at the firewall, and a nice long handle set of pliers is helpful. If you don't get it in all the way the clip may still seem to set and once you press the brake pedal, brake fluid shoots everywhere (don't ask why here either...). I can't really tell much difference, but I'm still getting used to the new T56 and crate motor, so it's hard to tell. Good Luck!

 

[nawagner]

I added this exact line set to my Mustang two days ago. The hardest thing is simply accessing the connections. The right angle one at the slave cylinder is easiest with a long, right angle pick. I removed this piece, and installed it on to the new line set, and lowered into place from the top, then crawled under the car and attached the right angle piece to the slave cylinder. As for the top connection, I found unbolting the AC accumulator (I think that's what it it) and sliding it out of the way helpful. Use duct tape on the holes in the sheet metal so if you drop the clip it does mean you remove the fender (don't ask why...). Lastly, you really have to push the connector into the fitting at the firewall, and a nice long handle set of pliers is helpful. If you don't get it in all the way the clip may still seem to set and once you press the brake pedal, brake fluid shoots everywhere (don't ask why here either...). I can't really tell much difference, but I'm still getting used to the new T56 and crate motor, so it's hard to tell. Good Luck!

This, and make sure you don't lose either of the clips. You can't buy them without buying an entire assembly.

 

[golkhl]

Thank you for the tips, i bought a pair of long needle nose pliers and a pick tool set. If this line does not cure my lockout condition, next up will be a new clutch master cylinder, and from what i have been reading online, it is another nightmare install. Thanks again for the tips/tricks for the line install.

 

[skwerl]

No, the ultimate fix is a T56 swap. Let me know when you get that done and I'll buy your car from you.

 

[BruceH]

Thank you for the tips, i bought a pair of long needle nose pliers and a pick tool set. If this line does not cure my lockout condition, next up will be a new clutch master cylinder, and from what i have been reading online, it is another nightmare install. Thanks again for the tips/tricks for the line install.

The master cylinder isn't too bad. Just do yourself a favor and unbolt the pedal assembly right away instead of trying to find ways around it.

 

[golkhl]

Got the clutch line installed today, did not do much to help the third gear high rpm lockout condition. And now it is locking me out of second gear downshifts(at anything other than low rpm/low speed shifts) in the 30 mile spirited test drive i just returned from? Could this lockout be caused by a bad clutch master or clutch slave? Or might it be time for a new clutch? Clutch is not slipping, and there is no gear grind, just getting the dreaded lockout.

Already put fresh synchromesh in the trans., have CHE brace and limiters, mgw shifter, braided clutch line. Not sure where to go from here. Would love to do a 6 speed swap, but dont have the money, desire, or time to do it.

 

[skwerl]

Give it a few days. Since there's no bleeder on the clutch slave, it can take weeks for the air bubbles to work out of the line and give you full disengagement when you depress the pedal. You'll get 2nd gear back in a hundred miles.

 

[Gabe]

Lost one of those little clips that hold the clutch fluid line when I installed my new McLeod line.

I know most people say you have to get a new line from the dealer to get the clips, but there's gotta be another way to get just the clips ...

Anybody ever find them?

 

[nawagner]

Lost one of those little clips that hold the clutch fluid line when I installed my new McLeod line.

I know most people say you have to get a new line from the dealer to get the clips, but there's gotta be another way to get just the clips ...

Anybody ever find them?

Not that I am aware. Search like hell to find the one you lost! Only other place I thought about was window struts or hatch struts on SUV's or hatchbacks may have a similar clip.

 

[Gabe]

I ended up finding the clip

The little bastard was hiding in the plastic tray thingy that protects the fuel lines: