new 4.6 3v stroker, ...go with 60lb, or 80lb oil pressure?

Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by Shakn68, Mar 3, 2021.

  1. Shakn68

    Shakn68 Junior Member

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    Need advice......Ready to assemble a fresh NA 4.6 3v aluminum block stroker with forged internals. Going with the Melling 10341 HP oil pump that is 20% higher volume, and gives you a choice of running the installed 80lb pressure spring like the 5.4's, or replacing with the included 60lb spring as originally in the 4.6's. Any thoughts or experiences one way or another? I have lightly ported OEM heads and do have some very, very fine scratches in the cam tower seats and caps. the machine shop said that is common, and not to worry. Can the 80lb pressure cause issues with the VCT components, phasers, etc. Please advise
     
  2. 2526Bullitt

    2526Bullitt forum member

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    I used the Ford Racing high volume oil pump (m-6600-f46) and I haven't had any issues with the VCT.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2021
    eighty6gt and Shakn68 like this.
  3. Shakn68

    Shakn68 Junior Member

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    Thanks 2526Bullitt, the FR m-6600-f46 was my first choice, but they've been discontinued from Ford, so I went with the Melling version of it. I'm also using the FR timing set.
     
  4. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    The recommended oil pressure is 75psi at 2000rpm so I suggest you go with the 80psi spring. Problems with the VCT stem from oil pressure (actually oil flow) that's too low rather than too high, since there's a minimum pressure required to keep the timing chain tensioners fully extended and for proper cam phaser function.
     
  5. Shakn68

    Shakn68 Junior Member

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    Thank you DDB for the detailed info. I appreciate your knowledge and your other informational posts on these matters.
    Any suggestions on cams? I have the common bolt-on's, tuner, 4.6 stroker, NA, 10.6CR, stock heads with ported exhaust, Comp Beehive .550 springs, Steeda charge motion delete plates, 3.73 gears, Auto trans with a Hughes 2500 stall converter. I was advised to go with a blower cam to better feed the extra cubes. Don't want to push anything past my current converter specs. More into torque than high RPM. Any advice?
     
  6. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    Since you already have upgraded valve springs, a stroker, and want torque over HP, I'd suggest the CompCams VSR stage 2 (127300). They'll behave similarly to a stage 1 cam on a stock displacement engine and will allow full VCT functionality i.e. no phaser limiters required.
    Alternatively you could opt for the SPR Stage 2 (127500) but they DO require phaser limiters due to the additional valve lift.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2021
  7. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    I finished a similar build a couple months ago. I installed the FR M-6600-F46 using the stock pickup and a moroso 8 qt pan. I was changing the oil the other day and only drained 3.5 qt. so I was/am pretty freaked out. Absolutely no leaks and no oil mixing with coolant, so I went to do a compression test last night and found oil on the threads of my plugs. I am taking it in to have a leak down test done next week. I am hoping it comes back normal. If it does, I plan to reinstall the stock pump.
     
  8. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    Shakn68. I would run the 80lb spring in that pump, especially with the heavier duty valve springs you’ve chosen. You might consider installing a set of Boundery (or other brand) billet steel gears in the pump and a billet steel crank sprocket as well. I’m thinking the 127300 is a very mild cam for a stroker with lightly ported heads and would lean towards the 127500 myself.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2021
  9. Mustang dog

    Mustang dog forum member

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    Lock or limit your phasers, you'll wish you did later on. Run a cam that requires springs, especially if you see any revs over 7k. Look at stainless valves, for this reason as well. Our oem valves do not like the heat, and the springs do not like the revs.
     
    GlassTop09 likes this.
  10. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    I would think twice about the FR oil pump upgrade. As I mentioned above, I have a similar build that I just finished in December. The engine seems to run fine (a little rich ) but she went through 3.5 qt of oil in < 1,000 mi. Original block, all new seals, 3.75 stroker crank, forged lower end, Manley pistons/rings, arp, etc. the heads an cam are stock, new valve seals, new springs, new phasers, new solenoids......so today I ran a leak down test on each cylinder and each one came back tight, < 5% loss.

    There are a few cases I came across where folks had installed high flow/pressure pumps and experienced significant oil loss, so I am probably going to replace the fr pump with stock pump and reuse the boundary gears I had installed.
     
  11. Badd GT

    Badd GT forum member

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    how do you think a high volume oil pump causes your engine to use oil?
     
  12. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    I’ve read it delivers oil throughout the engine faster than it can drain back.

    what else could it be?
     
  13. 2526Bullitt

    2526Bullitt forum member

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    I have the Ford Racing high volume pump (m-6600-f46) and haven't had any issues whatsoever. My engine is stock though.
     
  14. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    I know, I read great things about the high flow pumps. Running out of ideas
     
  15. Badd GT

    Badd GT forum member

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    In my mind, excessive oil consumption is either rings or valve guides/seals.
     
    eighty6gt likes this.
  16. 07 Boss

    07 Boss Senior Member

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    Well if you're not burning it up it can't just disappear. If your cylinders are good, and she's not leaking out anywhere, she is sucking it in through your PCV system.
     
    Midlife Crises likes this.
  17. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    I’m running the Ford Racing hi-volume pump with Boundary billet gears in my 3 valve. I beat on it pretty hard and frequently bang the rev limiter at 6,800. In 2,500 miles it dos not loose oil.
    If you lost 3.5 qts. of oil in less than 1,000 miles, there’s something wrong!
     
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  18. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    Agree...there is def something wrong. As I said no visible leaks and leak down test was very good. As 07boss suggested, I looked into the pcv valve. On my ‘10, it is sealed under the valve cover, so could not remove and shake. So I understand, if the pcv valve is stuck open (somehow) I would get continuous flow of crankcase vapors up into the manifold (by vacuum, + pressure, whatever). If the valve is clogged or cannot open, that would rule out the pcv as the cause of the oil loss. Is this more/less correct?

    appreciate the feedback
     
  19. rschmid123

    rschmid123 Junior Member

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    What kind of pressure should be supplied during the leak down test? 20, 60, 100 psi? Or is it irrelevant?
     
  20. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    The double gauge leak down tester my son has uses 100psi
     
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