Poor Air flow trough 2010up grille...

brasil

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while detailing my 2010 GT today, I came to the grille and was thinking about the little area were the air can go trough towards the radiator.

So I wonder if there is a possibilty to open up more of these honeycomb slots, to increase the airflow...

My idea is to open all of the "closed / blocked " honeycombs...

Good idea ? or waste of time ??
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Bad idea. Part of the upper grille is blocked off for a good reason so leave it well alone. There's plenty enough airflow to the radiator through the lower bumper grille to keep the engine cool.
 

brasil

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thank you guys for your fast answers...

So I will leave the grille alone.
 

GriffX

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I made a DIY flat undertray under the engine, so with reduced airflow to the ground and have no heat issues. Your 2010 should have the plate with air vents and increase airflow through the radiator.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I made a DIY flat undertray under the engine, so with reduced airflow to the ground and have no heat issues. Your 2010 should have the plate with air vents and increase airflow through the radiator.
The purpose of the louvred under tray is for the airflow underneath the car to create a low pressure area in the louvres that draws hot air away from behind the radiator, thus increasing its efficiency.
The front aero mods I've done on my car not only reduced drag but, more importantly, reduce lift.

1753861445273.jpeg


Another welcome effect is improved highway fuel economy.
 

Pentalab

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I have a 2010 GT auto with the small Roush M90 blower. The oem upper grille is 80% blocked off. (mostly closed off honeycombs + upper foglamps, black pony dead center, etc).
I tossed the oem upper grille and replaced it with the 7 bar upper grille....(mounts in 6 places). This 7 bar upper grille mod also eliminates the upper foglamps. Forget who made it at the time, but also installed the offset top radiator cover. That too puts more air through the upper portion of the Roush HE. The HE on the 2010 Roush PD blowers is full sized, both top to bottom, and also left to right. The same HE on the M90 is also used on the bigger Roush TVS-2300 blower setups.

With the 7 bar upper grille, the upper portion of the Roush HE gets way more air through it. It also eliminates the 2 x 90 deg bends into the ...'snorkel' that feeds the oem airbox. With the oem upper grille, you can't even see the 'snorkel'. With the 7 bar upper grille installed, airflow is now straight into the 'snorkel' and a slight increase in boost results.

I don't get any high speed front end lift....even at 137 mph. The 2010 cars came with an undertray that goes all the way back to the engine, and then some. It has to be removed to access the eng oil filter. Also installed the CDC lower grille, which puts more airflow through the lower grille. (the CDC lower grille also has the option for front brake cooling, so in went the 14" dust shields + 2.5" silicone hoses from new lower grille to dust shields. No more brake stink). The CDC lower grille slides in on top of the oem lower grille, and is angled downwards. Front end of car was lowered 1". (it's now only 1/2"). Eng was lowered 1/4" via the steeda eng mounts. Ceramic coated JBA LT's (catted H) put the new cats below the front seats, oem cats were at the base of the eng bay. Ok, no more eng bay heat issues. Eng bay temps dropped 40F (measured).

The poor 5R55S auto tranny would go from 170F to 200F in mere seconds on the hwy with blower on. So in went the B+M auto tranny cooler (bar+ plate type), and mounted directly below the oem Ford auto tranny cooler (tube + fin type). The 2 x auto tranny coolers are plumbed in series. On the 2010, the auto tranny coolers are sandwiched between the eng rad and the AC rad. Both tranny coolers are only 3/4" thick. The Roush HE is huge, and sits in front of everything... including the power steering rad. Ok, now auto tranny temps with blower on, increases to 171 F....and sometime 172F...problem solved. Previous to that, I installed the PA deeper pan on the 5R55S, which is very thick, and ribbed aluminum...and holds an extra 4 qts of auto tranny fluid. Also had installed the JDM catch can for the 5R55S...neither mod reduced temps. The fix was the 2nd auto tranny rad.

Point here is, with the extra large auto tranny cooler + Roush HE (+ eng rad, AC rad, power steering rad), you need a lot of air through the entire mess to be effective. I have a total of 6 x rads to get air through.

Talk to any of the road course folks. They either remove the oem upper grill entirely or replace it with the 9 bar grille (05-09 cars) or 7 bar grille on the 2010. The 13/14 GT-500's don't even have an upper grille.
 
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brasil

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@ Griffix
I think aluminium is not the right material to make such a plate. I would try to find some pvc plates... perhaps a visitation at "Bauhaus " will show up some good materials. They stock a lot of good stuff for "us " ...
 

Pentalab

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@ Griffix
I think aluminium is not the right material to make such a plate. I would try to find some pvc plates... perhaps a visitation at "Bauhaus " will show up some good materials. They stock a lot of good stuff for "us " ...
Aluminum plate is relatively easy to work with. It can be shaped, bent, rolled, folded, bolted, riveted, heliarc welded etc. It won't rust, it's light..... and depending on alloy, it's very strong, like 40 ksi yield strength for 6061-T6 alloy. You can get it in virtually any thickness you want.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Oh yes, my car is very stable now 75+ MPH. Like your plate around the oil pan, will try to invent something similar. I guess it is aluminum?
No it's a light composite material.
Note my custom air deflectors in front of the wheels. They too reduce lift and drag when correctly designed and positioned by limiting airflow into the wheel wells.
 
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GriffX

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@ Griffix
I think aluminium is not the right material to make such a plate. I would try to find some pvc plates... perhaps a visitation at "Bauhaus " will show up some good materials. They stock a lot of good stuff for "us " ...
In general I use ABS (3/4 mm) but the sheet around the oil pan has special needs. It must be stiff and heat resistent. You must cut out the part where it would touch the oil pan, so it must be stiff. I was thinking to use aluminium composite sheets but wasn't sure about the heat resistance. The flexibility of ABS at my DIY rear diffuser made me some headache (now I know why they use carbon fiber composite). If you want to make parts for yourself s-polytec is the cheapes I found in Germany.

No it's a light composite material.
Note my custom air deflectors in front of the wheels. They too reduce lift and drag when correctly designed and positioned by limiting airflow into the wheel wells.
Thanks, I copied the Mercedes air deflector flaps in front of the wheel instead of the air dam you choose. I must design parts for speed up to 140 mph so careful with parts in direct air flow.

BTW, the wind noise is reduced with a flat underbody also.
 

brasil

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sounds like I need to put my car on the lift again...to observe the underbody. And to make some "corrections " also.

" A Drivers work is never done "
 

GriffX

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sounds like I need to put my car on the lift again...to observe the underbody. And to make some "corrections " also.

" A Drivers work is never done "
You will never guess what my best mod was and I wish I had done this in the first month - noise insulation of the trunk and quarter panels. And I never thought how noise can be exhausting on long trips. Tire and wind noise. The stuff from adms-shop is awsome. I have a long thread about it somewhere here.
 

brasil

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... I have a 2010 Mustang. when I compare him with the 2008 Mustang, there is a improvement with the noise level . But the idea to buy some stuff at the AMDS shop..is a good one. I already bought stuff there... good prices also.
 

GriffX

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2010+ they improved some insulation at transmission tunnel and in the trunk. And, the new front sway bar bushings are a way quieter together with the bigger UCA in the rear. The wind noise is reduced from the better aerodynamics and so on.
Interestingly the S550 was not improved. I saw a disassemble video and it looks like the 2011+.
 
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