Regarding arh 1 3/4 for low rpm power.

[mach828]

Sell your mustang and pick up a turbo diesel this way you can drive it under 2,500 and have plenty of grunt babying the throttle.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Put a 3.5L EcoBoost out of a F-150 in it.

 

[jolambright]

No. But I defy you to find anything that made more power (more than let's say 3-5, which you can't feel) under 3000prm's switching to big tube LT's.

LT's will in some cases increase midrange power if they are designed really well. But low end, no.

Considering my first post said I am unable to find a dyno that shows below 2.5k and asked if anyone has experience with that particular exhaust setup, I challenge you instead to find actual proof of either someone who tried them or an actual dyno below 2.5. If I had the proof I wouldn't have needed to post this thread. 3-5 more is something that I cant feel but it is still higher than the stock headers if it stays above at all levels. I could deal with that because as soon as it hits above 3k it would have much more power.

 

[i am ryan]

Considering my first post said I am unable to find a dyno that shows below 2.5k and asked if anyone has experience with that particular exhaust setup, I challenge you instead to find actual proof of either someone who tried them or an actual dyno below 2.5. If I had the proof I wouldn't have needed to post this thread. 3-5 more is something that I cant feel but it is still higher than the stock headers if it stays above at all levels. I could deal with that because as soon as it hits above 3k it would have much more power.

But you're whole purpose of the thread is to achieve low rpm "grunt." It seems like you've kinda made up your mind either way. Be sure to update the thread with your dyno numbers when you get it all put together.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Considering my first post said I am unable to find a dyno that shows below 2.5k and asked if anyone has experience with that particular exhaust setup, I challenge you instead to find actual proof of either someone who tried them or an actual dyno below 2.5. If I had the proof I wouldn't have needed to post this thread. 3-5 more is something that I cant feel but it is still higher than the stock headers if it stays above at all levels. I could deal with that because as soon as it hits above 3k it would have much more power.

I'm not trying to be combative here. Just trying to demonstrate that what you're looking to do the way you want to do it is cost prohibitive or not going to work.

 

[jolambright]

But you're whole purpose of the thread is to achieve low rpm "grunt." It seems like you've kinda made up your mind either way. Be sure to update the thread with your dyno numbers when you get it all put together.

You are correct, I am looking for more low end grunt than the stock exhaust. If the aftermarket headers give it more low end grunt then I have achieved that. It may not gain as much down low than it will at mid or high rpm range but its still more low end. It may not be as much as I want but it is still better than not gaining any or worse losing some.


If/when I do use that set I will update the thread. Even if it is a year around I will update it so other people can know the results.

 

[jolambright]

I'm not trying to be combative here. Just trying to demonstrate that what you're looking to do the way you want to do it is cost prohibitive or not going to work.

I don't mind spending the 2k on the exhaust if I knew it worked for what I wanted. Considering what I have done with my car if I was worried about cost I wouldn't have done any of it. I would rather spend the money to have what I want than spending less or none being unhappy for settling for something that I did not really want.

Sorry for the double post.

 

[i am ryan]

You are correct, I am looking for more low end grunt than the stock exhaust. If the aftermarket headers give it more low end grunt then I have achieved that. It may not gain as much down low than it will at mid or high rpm range but its still more low end. It may not be as much as I want but it is still better than not gaining any or worse losing some.


If/when I do use that set I will update the thread. Even if it is a year around I will update it so other people can know the results.

I think the point is that you'll spend $2k on exhaust specifically to gain down low and the amount of power you're gaining is so little that it would be akin to taking the car out at night versus during the day. If you're justifying it by saying that you're also getting power across the whole power band, then you should be looking into a larger intercooler or weight reduction.

 

[jolambright]

I think the point is that you'll spend $2k on exhaust specifically to gain down low and the amount of power you're gaining is so little that it would be akin to taking the car out at night versus during the day. If you're justifying it by saying that you're also getting power across the whole power band, then you should be looking into a larger intercooler or weight reduction.

Not too familiar with the coolers that come with the Vortech S-3 so why would I need a larger one?
Does it not work that well? Or do you mean by getting a better one can push the engine harder to have more low end. That is also why I am getting the aluminator so I don't have to worry about stressing the engine as much.

I am already running 1 piece alum driveshaft from dynotech for as far as the weight reduction. I thought about getting seats with the bracket being lighter but I couldn't find seats that I liked that also come with the airbags that will work with the stock setup. Any other suggestions without messing with inside the cabin or messing with the comfort of the vehicle.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Stock Yote - 274 ft lb @ 2,000rpm

Stock Yote with LT's/off road X and mufflers - 276ft lb @ 2,000rpm. $1000/ft lb.

Stock Yote with PD blower - 388ft lb @ 2,000rpm. $43.86/ ft lb.

 

[jolambright]

Stock Yote - 274 ft lb @ 2,000rpm

Stock Yote with LT's/off road X and mufflers - 276ft lb @ 2,000rpm. $1000/ft lb.

Stock Yote with PD blower - 388ft lb @ 2,000rpm. $43.86/ ft lb.

Cool info, where is it from?
Does it say which primary size of LT's and if they have the data with a catted H pipe which help with more low end?

 

[Department Of Boost]

Cool info, where is it from?
Does it say which primary size of LT's and if they have the data with a catted H pipe which help with more low end?

Off of dyno graphs I have on file.

1 7/8 headers, no cats.

Cats don't make torque.

 

[jolambright]

Off of dyno graphs I have on file.

1 7/8 headers, no cats.

Cats don't make torque.

Why not just post the file?

Was it an X or H.

I read that cats can help with scavenging but hurt higher up.

 

[Unreal]

Apples and oranges.^^^^^^

Unreal - Come on man, using your car as an example of how his 550-600hp 302cu in Mustang will run is well.................... stupid.

OP - the car he is talking about is a 1100hp 427cu in Corvette. He has low end torque because that is what happens when you are making 1100hp up top. He also has a huge displacement advantage, which will produce more torque.

I can tell you from experience driving centri Yote cars in the 550-600hp range that you will not see a noticeable seat of the pants improvement in power under 3750rpm. Hell, even the PD blowers are a little "soft" on the Yote when compared to the 3v.

You got your answer. And that answer is PD blower. It is the first, second and third best option to get to your goals.

-Headers will not improve you low end.

-A centri blower will hardly change your low end at all.

Those are the facts.

Yes, you are spot on, but saying a centri can't make low end was all I was clarifying. They can make more than enough low end to spin tires just about anywhere. That might not be a stock displacement 5.0. Either way I make more torque at 2k than a stock 427 at peak torque, even with a low compression motor, so saying a centri doesn't add anything down low isn't accurate. It doesn't add anywhere near what a PD does, but it does help everywhere.

Ysi, 2" headers, 7L LS motor. The 1100 is actually low because I had to pull all the timing out to not max the dyno out. Kept maxing it out and getting no reading so pulled it back just to get a reading.

For low end grunt, a PD or even a small turbo spec'd to come on hard early in RPM range is where it is at.

 

[mach828]

Those PD results are also off a WOT hit. There isn't to be any gain babying the throttle off a stop light. Go slap a 6.2L truck engine in it with 20" intake runners if you want some extra low end. Then spec the cams for a 1,500-4,500 powerband.

How is a restriction, like cats, after the headers going to help increase power.........come on

 

[i am ryan]

Why not just post the file?

Was it an X or H.

I read that cats can help with scavenging but hurt higher up.

Wow. You're missing the point entirely. Did you not look at those numbers? It costs 22x MORE per ftlb of TQ with headers and you would still have 112 ftlb of TQ LESS. I can't tell if you're just trying to prove that you can get 1/2HP in the low end to prove a point or if you actually believe that it's a smart decision. If you don't understand intercoolers and spending $2k for 2HP is a good idea to you then I see absolutely no reason to be driving a boosted car.

 

[jolambright]

Wow. You're missing the point entirely. Did you not look at those numbers? It costs 22x MORE per ftlb of TQ with headers and you would still have 112 ftlb of TQ LESS. I can't tell if you're just trying to prove that you can get 1/2HP in the low end to prove a point or if you actually believe that it's a smart decision. If you don't understand intercoolers and spending $2k for 2HP is a good idea to you then I see absolutely no reason to be driving a boosted car.

I don't care about the cost. I have already said.
So because I don't understand fully about something on a car then I shouldn't be driving it boosted?
Not everyone drives their vehicles the same, but everyone loves power when they hit on the gas. A lot of people try to mod their vehicles for their driving styles and if they can get components to do that and add power then good for them even if it costs more and the cost is higher than another way.
My post didn't say the cheapest way.

 

[i am ryan]

I don't care about the cost. I have already said.
So because I don't understand fully about something on a car then I shouldn't be driving it boosted?
Not everyone drives their vehicles the same, but everyone loves power when they hit on the gas. A lot of people try to mod their vehicles for their driving styles and if they can get components to do that and add power then good for them even if it costs more and the cost is higher than another way.
My post didn't say the cheapest way.

Not having a basic understanding of how these systems work is what causes people to lose motors, even the almighty Aluminator. As far as cheapest/cost, we're way past that part of the conversation. At this point we're strictly talking about efficiency; cost just also happens to be a factor because we exist on Earth and use currency to as a way to acquire goods.

You're looking for evidence that supports the claim that centri+LTHs will produce an efficient and reasonable comparison to going with a PD blower and that evidence just doesn't exist. For what you're looking for for your car, a PD blower with the CDC shaker fabbed up to the hood is the way to go.

 

[Department Of Boost]

They can make more than enough low end to spin tires just about anywhere.

A Yote with a Centri making 500-600hp will not spin the tires in 2nd gear at 2000rpm.

 

[jolambright]

Not having a basic understanding of how these systems work is what causes people to lose motors, even the almighty Aluminator. As far as cheapest/cost, we're way past that part of the conversation. At this point we're strictly talking about efficiency; cost just also happens to be a factor because we exist on Earth and use currency to as a way to acquire goods.

You're looking for evidence that supports the claim that centri+LTHs will produce an efficient and reasonable comparison to going with a PD blower and that evidence just doesn't exist. For what you're looking for for your car, a PD blower with the CDC shaker fabbed up to the hood is the way to go.

Show me an Aluminator with billet pump gears that has blown used under 800hp that is setup correctly. Unless if on cold start your abusing it a great deal I would like to see an article where one was destroyed in a short amount of time driven soft and correct until it is warmed up. Considering I baby my car a lot at first I doubt it will ever have issues unless something is wrong with the motor itself due installation error or I received a motor with something wrong with it.

I never compared with the PD at first and I still know it won't produce as much power as that. I just want the setup to work to be a decent amount of power over stock with the way I want the car to work. There are other reasons that I don't want to use a PD but I doubt anyone here would care to know considering how this thread is going.