Shifting at high rpm’s

vxr500

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So I know this is a pretty old subject with these cars. I just want to hear from some people that actually found a way to remedy it.

My 2010 GT, has the stock shifter with the Saleen shifter block added. The Saleen block did shorten the shift throw, but also made it notchier-which I know is a trade off sometimes. But it also enhanced the high rpm lockout in 1-2, and 2-3. At lower speeds/rpm it’s fine. No grinding or crunching, just an unwillingness to go in unless I go real easy…no hurried shifts. I changed my trans fluid, but no change.

What is a sure fire way to get rid of this? I know that blowfish bracket is no longer available. My plan is to trash the shifter I have and get an MGW. Also maybe a new trans mount? Does anyone make a poly one? I heard motor mounts might help too?

It really takes the fun out of driving the car. Any feedback is appreciated.
 

Juice

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In short, its the clutch not fully releasing.
It could also be a clutch that is near end of its life. As a diaphram clutch wears, the pedal pressure increases and stresses other parts of the system. Adding to not fully releasing clutch. I have read that a braided clutch line may help, as it will not expand.
So, how far off the clutch friction point off the floor? How many miles on the clutch?
Definitely measure for the correct shim stack when you pull the trans.
Note: continued use with shift lockout can damage the syncros or shift forks.
 

weather man

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TR-6060 out of a GT500 or Magnum XL. I went the used GT500 route.
 

vxr500

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In short, its the clutch not fully releasing.
It could also be a clutch that is near end of its life. As a diaphram clutch wears, the pedal pressure increases and stresses other parts of the system. Adding to not fully releasing clutch. I have read that a braided clutch line may help, as it will not expand.
So, how far off the clutch friction point off the floor? How many miles on the clutch?
Definitely measure for the correct shim stack when you pull the trans.
Note: continued use with shift lockout can damage the syncros or shift forks.

I have considered this. The clutch catches a little on the higher side, but doesn’t slip. I have almost 100k on the car now and I’m pretty sure it’s the original clutch (bought used). I’ll also look into that braided line.
 

vxr500

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I realize, but there’s a lot of conflicting information. Like those Che limiters. I’ve read some that didn’t notice much of a difference, some that broke the trans case, some that it really helped. I did look into those as a possible solution.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I've never had a problem shifting at high rpm since the day I bought my car almost nine years ago. Back then it was bone stock with the stock shifter. For the last 8 years it's had a McLeod RXT clutch, McLeod billet steel flywheel, McLeod braided clutch line, and Barton short throw shifter. The engine and TR3650 trans mounts are still the original stock units, and shifting at 6000+rpm is a breeze. If anything, gearshifts seem to be smoother at higher rpm and the mileage is 97k.
I suggest you try a braided steel clutch line as the first measure and if you're intent on a short throw shifter, I'd highly recommend the Barton. It can be a little notchy but it'll reward you with solid, meaty throws.
 

Juice

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I have considered this. The clutch catches a little on the higher side, but doesn’t slip. I have almost 100k on the car now and I’m pretty sure it’s the original clutch (bought used). I’ll also look into that braided line.

My stock clutch gave out at 106,000 miles.
 

whitmanink

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yea im the same as dino,,, but my car had 160,000 miles on her,, always shifted fine above 5,900 rpm ,never had an issue or a grind
 

Midlife Crises

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I guess I’m in that “didn’t shift well” category. My 2010 was fine with normal, calm shifting but became difficult to shift above 5,500 rpm or so. An MGW shifter felt more solid but didn’t really help the high rpm shifting. When I killed the synchros in the 3650 a T56 magnum with a carefully set up clutch solved the shifting problems. I believe the clutch dragging is responsible for most of the shifting problems encountered in the S197.
 

09brian0

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As a heads up, for guys who have that saleen shift block,
When i put in a ford racing 1 piece 3.5 “ one piece drive shaft,
The shift block hits the rubber spline joint cover and tears it up on the 2 4 shift. i found out the hard way
 

vxr500

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So update, I put in a Barton shifter, and it seemed to help slightly. I can shift a little quicker than before, but the lockout is still there.

I’m going to pick up those Che limiters over the winter and see if they help. But should I get motor mounts at the same time?

After that, probably a clutch, flywheel and steel line next year.
 

AHaze

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The limiters and poly motor mounts basically do the same thing for shifter alignment, pick one or the other. I went with the mounts because I saw no reason to add extra components (and weight).
 

86GT351

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So I know this is a pretty old subject with these cars. I just want to hear from some people that actually found a way to remedy it.

My 2010 GT, has the stock shifter with the Saleen shifter block added. The Saleen block did shorten the shift throw, but also made it notchier-which I know is a trade off sometimes. But it also enhanced the high rpm lockout in 1-2, and 2-3. At lower speeds/rpm it’s fine. No grinding or crunching, just an unwillingness to go in unless I go real easy…no hurried shifts. I changed my trans fluid, but no change.

What is a sure fire way to get rid of this? I know that blowfish bracket is no longer available. My plan is to trash the shifter I have and get an MGW. Also maybe a new trans mount? Does anyone make a poly one? I heard motor mounts might help too?

It really takes the fun out of driving the car. Any feedback is appreciated.
The most important question is........What do you consider high RPM? Any conventional synchronized transmission gets locked out when trying to shift. It can be caused by the pressure plate fingers collapsing and not allowing 100% proper clutch function.
 

2526Bullitt

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I personally noticed a huge improvement on my 2008 Bullitt when I replaced the clutch, flywheel ( i used ram cltuches and lightened flywheel), throw out bearing (FORD or quality brand for throw out bearing) and added shims to the back of the throw out bearing.
 
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Pentalab

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I saw a noticeable improvement after installing the Steeda motor mounts.

I installed steeda motor mounts on my 2010 GT, at the same time as my JBA LT's were installed. The steeda eng mounts work superb...vs the oem gel filled eng mounts. On the 05-10 4.6 engs, the steeda eng mounts came with 4 x red mounts and 2 x black mounts. The red ones are a slightly softer durometer..vs the black ones. I used one red and one black one, on each side. (on driver's side, the black is on top..and red is on the bottom)..... On pass side, red is on top, and black is on the bottom.

The steeda eng mounts allow for a stock eng height, OR lower the engine in 1/4" increments...down to a 3/4" drop. IE: 1/4" - 1/2" - 3/4". I used the 1/4" drop option. This allowed the steeda STB to clear the Roush CAI. Go too low, and you may well have clearance issues between the primary tube on #8 and the steering shaft. The 1/4" eng drop also lowered the center of gravity (CG) a bit. Note, the oem eng mount heat shields are re-used
 

86GT351

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I installed steeda motor mounts on my 2010 GT, at the same time as my JBA LT's were installed. The steeda eng mounts work superb...vs the oem gel filled eng mounts. On the 05-10 4.6 engs, the steeda eng mounts came with 4 x red mounts and 2 x black mounts. The red ones are a slightly softer durometer..vs the black ones. I used one red and one black one, on each side. (on driver's side, the black is on top..and red is on the bottom)..... On pass side, red is on top, and black is on the bottom.

The steeda eng mounts allow for a stock eng height, OR lower the engine in 1/4" increments...down to a 3/4" drop. IE: 1/4" - 1/2" - 3/4". I used the 1/4" drop option. This allowed the steeda STB to clear the Roush CAI. Go too low, and you may well have clearance issues between the primary tube on #8 and the steering shaft. The 1/4" eng drop also lowered the center of gravity (CG) a bit. Note, the oem eng mount heat shields are re-used
So basically what you are saying is with the aftermarket adjustable mounts you were able to correct the factory drivetrain dynamic to solve a problem. Sad how the aftermarket world tends to do things like that.
 

Pentalab

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So basically what you are saying is with the aftermarket adjustable mounts you were able to correct the factory drivetrain dynamic to solve a problem. Sad how the aftermarket world tends to do things like that.

The oem hydra mounts are made for minimal to zero NVH. Works good, but the entire engine flops side to side, lifting on the driver's side upon acceleration. I have an automatic, so shifting is a non issue.

JBA, who makes the LT's sez in their install manual, they recommend replacing the oem eng mounts with the steeda version. Several other makers also make similar eng mounts.

With the steeda eng mounts installed, it increased NVH, but only a tiny bit...and only over an extremely narrow RPM range, like 625-650 rpm. ( stock, the eng idles at 600 rpm, with tranny in..'drive'..and foot on the brake). VMP re-tuned the eng..and in the process, it now ides at 750 rpm, again, tranny in..'drive'..and foot on brake. No more NVH, since I'm never in the 625-650 range.

With oem eng mounts, the steeda STB would slightly touch and crease the top of the roush CAI oval rubber tube on my small M90 blower setup. With eng lowered 1/4", it just clears nicely.

Local Ford dealer installed the LT's and eng mounts, and was quite impressed with the results.
 

vxr500

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The most important question is........What do you consider high RPM? Any conventional synchronized transmission gets locked out when trying to shift. It can be caused by the pressure plate fingers collapsing and not allowing 100% proper clutch function.

Around 6-6500 rpm
 

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