Shooting for 11s N/A

GERMANSHEPERD

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For weight reduction I remove the passenger seat (4 bolts, 49 lbs) and I've replaced my K member with a BMR. There's a lot more I could do there but I want to keep it a street car that goes to the track, not a track car that's street legal.
my exact feelings
 

TheDarkPath

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OP, i didn't see cams, are you running stock still?

Yes, stock cams, stock heads, stock exhaust manifolds. My only "power" mods are Steeda UDP, C&L "street" intake, Pypes off-road H, and a dyno tune.

The Bama tune I had was pretty good. It netted 296 RWHP. The dyno tune improved the power/torque curves (middle mostly) but only added 4 peak RWHP and 6 RWTQ.
 

Blackbird1084

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With cai, tuner, o/r x-pipe, cmpd's, and gt500 tb (for future fi)It went [email protected] before udp's on Hoosier qtp's then [email protected] after udp's on street tires. It's got headers on it now but no udp's due to the harmonic balancer failing. I hope it traps around 107-108 (920Ft elevation) and I'm shooting for 12.4-12.5's on slicks. 12's on street tires is also a goal. Then I'm gonna spray it into the 11's lol.
 

Noclutch

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Yes, stock cams, stock heads, stock exhaust manifolds. My only "power" mods are Steeda UDP, C&L "street" intake, Pypes off-road H, and a dyno tune.

The Bama tune I had was pretty good. It netted 296 RWHP. The dyno tune improved the power/torque curves (middle mostly) but only added 4 peak RWHP and 6 RWTQ.


Cool. Getting a converter will net you what on the 60' do you think?

I see you have a suspension set up that brings you grip.

The stock converter never gets me going under a 1.93 on dr's and a 3800k I am betting will drop me .2 in the 60' to around 1.7xx which I hope will get me around a 12.6 on stock suspension. I have more to do yet and the going is slow here. I am having too much fun showing up at the track on stock tires and at stock weight and running against dr cars with stuff pulled out....but it is time to move on.

Please keep us informed, I like what you have done so far.
 

Sharad

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Cool. Getting a converter will net you what on the 60' do you think?

I see you have a suspension set up that brings you grip.

The stock converter never gets me going under a 1.93 on dr's and a 3800k I am betting will drop me .2 in the 60' to around 1.7xx which I hope will get me around a 12.6 on stock suspension. I have more to do yet and the going is slow here. I am having too much fun showing up at the track on stock tires and at stock weight and running against dr cars with stuff pulled out....but it is time to move on.

Please keep us informed, I like what you have done so far.

Yep. Even on an automatic, good suspension help out when you start adding power and leaving harder. Especially with an upgraded converter.
 

conexion914

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Yep. Even on an automatic, good suspension help out when you start adding power and leaving harder. Especially with an upgraded converter.

I agree with this.

I just recently put in a PTC Converter (stalls somewhere between 3000-3500, don't know for sure) and was cutting mid 1.9 to low 2.0 60' with a best of 1.919 on the stock converter. With just the PTC converter on 255/50/16 ET Streets my best 60' was a 1.806 and I was spinning a good bit. I blame the spin on weak burnouts due to a worn out differential, but I have a TrueTrac going in this Friday.

All I have for suspension mods are UPR LCA and CobraJet rear springs. I need to spend some time researching what's gonna be the best bang for the buck to get the car to not spin.

Good luck in hunting 11's N/A everyone!
 

TheDarkPath

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Cool. Getting a converter will net you what on the 60' do you think?

I see you have a suspension set up that brings you grip.

The stock converter never gets me going under a 1.93 on dr's and a 3800k I am betting will drop me .2 in the 60' to around 1.7xx which I hope will get me around a 12.6 on stock suspension. I have more to do yet and the going is slow here. I am having too much fun showing up at the track on stock tires and at stock weight and running against dr cars with stuff pulled out....but it is time to move on.

Please keep us informed, I like what you have done so far.

Thanks! I'll be posting updates soon as soon as I get the stall and retune finished up. I'll be out to the track the first Friday I'm free after that to get times. I honestly don't know what to expect as far as a 60' drop. I'm hoping for a .15 to .2 sec drop in 60' but we'll see.

With the stock converter, I got a 1.844 60' on my last time out to the track when I ran the 12.49. That was on the bigs and littles with Nitto 555r in the back. I launched around 2300 RPM with the car in D.

Little by little, I've added to my car to help cut down on ET but also with a mindset that I'm building towards something bigger later on and have the means to support it. I'm expecting that I'll probably have to tweak the suspension for more traction after the stall. I also have a set of 17 inch wheels with MT ET Street bias plys in case I need the added traction.

I ran a 12.95 on 18 inch wheels and street tires with UDP, off-road H, C&L intake, 93 octane tune, BMR LCAs, and tubular radiator support/swaybar delete. That was on a 1.94 60'. Hoping for 11s NA with stock heads/cams/manifolds. Next mod after the stall will probably be CMCV deletes.
 

TheDarkPath

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Thanks Matt D, ArtQ, and RedFire! As soon as I get some time to get back to the tuner to finish the tune and install the TC, I'll be making a trip to the track to see how she does.
 

Limetime

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Mad props if u get those times NA

But for the people with power adders and not running in the 11s seriously WTF
My little 67mm turbo setup with proper big's and littles on a 275/50/15 MT, Qa1 in the back with some BMR stuff netted me on my first pass a 11.4 then hit a 11.2 with a best 60ft of 1.51
 

2k05gt

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Hello all,

I'm currently in the process of getting a Circle D 3600 stall which will be installed and tuned for by the shop that just did my dyno tune the other day. I'm also trying to find some Steeda CMCV economy plates (they're not all that easy to find).

Since I ran the 12.49, I've put back on my off-road H pipe and the 1 piece Spydershaft driveshaft. I'm getting some vibrations still from 5000 rpms in 4th and beyond but it's not nearly as bad as it was before I did all the suspension work so I'm hoping it'll help at least a bit. Due to the vibrations, I don't expect the standard 2/10s in the 1/4 everyone tends to see.

With the mods in my signature, the things I've done since my last run, and the converter and CMCV delete plates, I'm hoping for an 11.9x pass my next trip out to the track (Royal Purple Raceway in Baytown). If I come up short of my goal, what should I do next to help bring down ET?

I want to keep the motor stock and my goal is 11s N/A. I don't like the $/hp of long tubes and plus the install is a PITA. If the CMCV deletes do what everyone has told me they do, I'll be perfectly happy with 310rwhp. I think 11s are possible as is with the mods above but ideas for next steps are something I'm running out of.


I have been trying to crack that nut for a while, and it's just out of reach.
My best is 12.29 @ 110, Average 12.3's @109. I have a 3500 Stall and 3600 lbs with driver.


My Current Mods Include:
JLT II Cold Air Intake
Comp 127300 XFI VSR 3V Camshafts
Comp Beehive Springs
Steeda Charge Motion Delete Plates
FRPP 4.10 Gears
TruTrac Locker
CHE Lower Control Arms
TCI Superstreet fighter 3500 stall
TCI Ratchet Shifter
Steeda Adj Upper Control Arm
Spyder One Piece Aluminum Drive Shaft
JBA Long Tube Headers
JBA Catted H-Pipe
FRPP Stingers

Next I need to Loose weight personally and in the car.
If I can get a good tune for the Cams and down to 3500 lb race weight I might get close.

But my car is hitting the 100,000 mile mark so I got to do it this year.

Good Luck, your going to need it. It might be eaiser just to buy a 2012 GT.

We had a Track rental last october and a guy came up from texas with his Kona Blue 2012. with just a tune (stock airbox), DR's and axle-backs he was running 12.1 and pulling the front tire off the ground.

7074eab31a720179.jpg
 
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rojizostang

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i'm pretty sure i could get a 12.0 if i go into the motor. i've been debating a set of juiced up heads, but i'm just not sure i'm willing to spend the coin to do it. right now the car is pretty quick at 12.22, but it still runs nice and is easy to drive in traffic and gets pretty good mpg (over 20 on the hwy). i may give up on the quest for 11's n/a
 

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