ZmanM3
The Evil One
Is it done yet?
Short Blockectomy has started
- Thread starter 94tbird
- Start date
ZmanM3
The Evil One
DirtyDogOfTheDesert
Senior Member
Ron,
I spoke with Don Campbell today about the side clearance on the rods and some people's concerns here about it, and he is confident everything is fine. Ford specs are tighter than what your engine was built to, but you are not running a Ford crank or Ford rods. The spec on a steel H-beam rod whether is be Manley or Eagle both state .015-.025 side to side clearance. Yours being at .022 is within spec. Furthermore, Campbell Automotive did NOT do any extra machining on those rods to open the side clearance up to .022. That is where is was at from the original build when it came from JDM.
Happy building, now get it finished!
I spoke with Don Campbell today about the side clearance on the rods and some people's concerns here about it, and he is confident everything is fine. Ford specs are tighter than what your engine was built to, but you are not running a Ford crank or Ford rods. The spec on a steel H-beam rod whether is be Manley or Eagle both state .015-.025 side to side clearance. Yours being at .022 is within spec. Furthermore, Campbell Automotive did NOT do any extra machining on those rods to open the side clearance up to .022. That is where is was at from the original build when it came from JDM.
Happy building, now get it finished!
US-1
Banned
Better run 10-30 or 10-40 oil.
SD can you explain please
US-1
Banned
At the risk of being called a jealous asshole again.............. 
In the most simplistic of terms....the larger the clearances the thicker the oil needed to protect the components.
In the most simplistic of terms....the larger the clearances the thicker the oil needed to protect the components.
At the risk of being called a jealous asshole again..............
In the most simplistic of terms....the larger the clearances the thicker the oil needed to protect the components.
thank you Mr. Jealous A-hole....
DirtyDogOfTheDesert
Senior Member
10-40 is what has been recommended and that's what I'm sure Ron will run!
US-1
Banned
Figured as much.
Natural1
all around duguder
Lookin' good bro!
psfracer
billy badass
What was wrong with the old motor? Can you sell it?
Nevermind, I saw that you posted the motor was making a noise you could not identify---so replace it now before all your other parts become at risk. That and SDs dog can build motors. Who knew?
Nevermind, I saw that you posted the motor was making a noise you could not identify---so replace it now before all your other parts become at risk. That and SDs dog can build motors. Who knew?
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yea paul, the noise. it was off again and on again but i could hear it over the running motor and exhaust when it was there. plus id rather just have larry h out of the picture, and also needed new bearings all around aswell from the oil pump failure, so all things added up, this made the most sense. I am going to eventually strip it down, bore and stroke it to be a replica of the motor going in
ZmanM3
The Evil One
I bet you can't wait to have it running again.
joedls
Dragracer wannabe
Looking good, Ron!!!
ocpony
Member
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This is what .005 clearance on my crank yielded on my Eagle 4340 Stroker kit in a new FRPP block. I run a PI convertor and this happened with about 525Rhp. after about 8 or 9 dyno runs when were tuning it. It was fine (on the dyno) until I ran it WOT in fourth on the highway on the way home from the tuner. Felt a strange vibration at about 5500rpm so I shut it down fast. I had a knock until I got it home (500 + miles from tuner) and tore it down. We had to grind the crank thrust surface to smooth up the wear surface after the tear down. On the rebuild we wound up with .012 clearance do to the grinding. The motor has since seen at least 560+ to the wheels (13 to 16 # of boost) and was run in the Texes mile to 180mph with no motor issues. (tranny is another story tho)
These were cleavite H bearings (which were still in good shape other than the thrust face.
I am not saying you will have problems but just want to provide you with my experience so you are informed. You have a different crank and rods so it may be fine. I did get confirmation from several mod motor builders including Livernois that they use .008 to .013 for crank endplay clearance. They prefer to be a little on the looser side as the hp increases. Remember stock specs are for stock motors, not ones producing 2 to 3 times as much hp over stock.
Hopefully it will not be an issue. BTW my side clearance was .019 to .021 and I run 20w50 mobile 1. I had to get new rings (new bearing also) and have the motor rehoned since I had about 1700 miles on it at the time the thrust bearing siezed. Cost me another $800 and my time to R & I and tear down and reassemble the motor.
Pics of the your motor look great and I know what it takes to tear them down and install them as I did mine all by myself.
Here are some shots of the thrust bearing. It siezed the thrust washer and stacked it with the bearing thrust face. I also am providing pics of the clearance I had using the stock windage tray. I don't see how it could have been hitting but again it is a different crank and rods.
The first pic of the windage tray shows the stock tray in place and how close it is to the crank and has the canton one just sitting on top of the stock one. I decided to use the stock one since the canton tray was so far from the crank and it blocks the oil drainbacks on one side of the motor causing the oil to drain on top of the windage tray innstead of straight to the oil pan.
Hope this is helpful to you or anyone else on here.
These were cleavite H bearings (which were still in good shape other than the thrust face.
I am not saying you will have problems but just want to provide you with my experience so you are informed. You have a different crank and rods so it may be fine. I did get confirmation from several mod motor builders including Livernois that they use .008 to .013 for crank endplay clearance. They prefer to be a little on the looser side as the hp increases. Remember stock specs are for stock motors, not ones producing 2 to 3 times as much hp over stock.
Hopefully it will not be an issue. BTW my side clearance was .019 to .021 and I run 20w50 mobile 1. I had to get new rings (new bearing also) and have the motor rehoned since I had about 1700 miles on it at the time the thrust bearing siezed. Cost me another $800 and my time to R & I and tear down and reassemble the motor.
Pics of the your motor look great and I know what it takes to tear them down and install them as I did mine all by myself.
Here are some shots of the thrust bearing. It siezed the thrust washer and stacked it with the bearing thrust face. I also am providing pics of the clearance I had using the stock windage tray. I don't see how it could have been hitting but again it is a different crank and rods.
The first pic of the windage tray shows the stock tray in place and how close it is to the crank and has the canton one just sitting on top of the stock one. I decided to use the stock one since the canton tray was so far from the crank and it blocks the oil drainbacks on one side of the motor causing the oil to drain on top of the windage tray innstead of straight to the oil pan.
Hope this is helpful to you or anyone else on here.
Attachments
Vapour Trails
The Renaissance Man
Well, that's not good news at all (SD called it exactly). Is a complete disassembly required to increase the end play?
Does the situation change when a manual tranmission is used?
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Natural1
all around duguder
Yes, you can run tighter thrust clearances on a stick. The added clearance should be universal but it would be necessary if your converter baloons. No need to "open the can" again, as this has already been discussed.
Note the italics.
Note the italics.
US-1
Banned
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