St-xta coil overs? Opinions???

[Apex50]

Ground Control offers an coilover conversion to the bilsteins.
We ran the AST 4150's on the Boss with Hyperco springs and Ground Control CC plates and was very happy with the adjustability and comfort of them.

We did just pick up a few higher end companies last week as we plan to build a car once I get back to the states. Should be fun and is convenient we can rent out NCCAR basically anytime we want to test everything out.

NCCAR is a great resource for testing, super cheap considering the track time. We tested our chumpcar out there over the summer. The constant radius turns are a little boring though.

 

[Bingo]

So one actual post on the qualities of the ST-XTA coilover in 80 total posts? Anyone have anything else?

 

[todcp]

It seems no one here is using them. From what I see a cheaper built base KW. Maybe fine for the "look" crowd but I doubt a corner carver is going to sign on when, in this price range, Koni and Springs are a proven commodity.
IMO cheap coilovers are not a corner carver item.
Lowest cost quality coilover type setup is probably Ground Control for 1600 including the camber plates. Nice option as you don't have to slam the suspension too low with the GC and they can help you setup the springs and lowering to what you want. Vorschlag has a nice looking Bilstein setup but a bit too low for me.

 

[Bingo]

It seems no one here is using them. From what I see a cheaper built base KW. Maybe fine for the "look" crowd but I doubt a corner carver is going to sign on when, in this price range, Koni and Springs are a proven commodity.
IMO cheap coilovers are not a corner carver item.
Lowest cost quality coilover type setup is probably Ground Control for 1600 including the camber plates. Nice option as you don't have to slam the suspension too low with the GC and they can help you setup the springs and lowering to what you want. Vorschlag has a nice looking Bilstein setup but a bit too low for me.

From the commentary in this threat, the overwhelming consensus is that Koni is garbage.

Bilsteins are a nice option, but no height adjustability. I'm far from a corner carver; I'm just looking for something with ride/height adjustability that will work well on the street and on an occasional AutoX course.

 

[Norm Peterson]

From the commentary in this threat, the overwhelming consensus is that Koni is garbage.

If you go back through the complaints you may find that lowering was involved more often than not. So maybe it's too easy to end up with too much lowering for the spring rates and the Konis' available bump travel?

Bilsteins are a nice option, but no height adjustability. I'm far from a corner carver; I'm just looking for something with ride/height adjustability that will work well on the street and on an occasional AutoX course.

I can't imagine tinkering with ride height just to run an autocross and messing with it again to go back to the street ride height, and that's just from the time and effort involved . . . never mind you're likely to do more harm than good unless you have a set of cornerweighting scales handy and the patience to use them. By comparison, making shock/strut damping adjustments and making camber adjustments via camber plates is considerably less work even if you do both. I tweak the damping at every track day and occasionally between track days, and I have done the alignment-for-autocross and back-to-street thing at the autocross site (different car), and seen others do so as well. But I've never seen anybody make ride height adjustments


Norm

 

[sheizasosay]

If you go back through the complaints you may find that lowering was involved more often than not. So maybe it's too easy to end up with too much lowering for the spring rates and the Konis' available bump travel?

Norm

I don't come to the same conclusion as Bingo, even from this thread. "Overwhelming consensus is that Koni is garbage".... maybe I'm not being objective.

 

[Bingo]

I can't imagine tinkering with ride height just to run an autocross and messing with it again to go back to the street ride height, and that's just from the time and effort involved . . . never mind you're likely to do more harm than good unless you have a set of cornerweighting scales handy and the patience to use them. By comparison, making shock/strut damping adjustments and making camber adjustments via camber plates is considerably less work even if you do both. I tweak the damping at every track day and occasionally between track days, and I have done the alignment-for-autocross and back-to-street thing at the autocross site (different car), and seen others do so as well. But I've never seen anybody make ride height adjustments

Admittedly, the desirability of height adjustability is mainly for aesthetics - to get the right stance. I have no intention of tinkering with it. I'd go with an air suspension for this reason, but it adds too much weight and complication.

 

[todcp]

Koni says the yellow should not be dropped more than 30 to 40mm. So 1.57 inches max or they can be damaged. I wonder how many damaged Koni Yellow were set at 1.5 inches or more? Combine that with a progressive spring and four people in the car and your are driving on the bottom of the Koni range of motion.
I realized I was asking to much of the car and the Konis to have 1.4 inch lower progressive 195 pound springs and changed my setup. At -1.4 there is only a half inch before you bring the bump stops into play. So now I am on 225 # springs in the rear with 5/8-3/4 inch drop. Front is 430# and 1/2 drop. Much better for me. Still looks good to me and drives well. Firm and not harsh.

 

[Sharad]

Admittedly, the desirability of height adjustability is mainly for aesthetics - to get the right stance. I have no intention of tinkering with it. I'd go with an air suspension for this reason, but it adds too much weight and complication.

I didn't personally weigh the parts when I installed mine, but I read that the Air Lift kit is lighter than stock. It's plausible considering that the trunk equipment is light, and you're losing four coil springs. And just my two cents here: I like the dampers in the Air Lift kit better than the Koni Yellows I was running.

 

[sheizasosay]

I didn't personally weigh the parts when I installed mine, but I read that the Air Lift kit is lighter than stock. It's plausible considering that the trunk equipment is light, and you're losing four coil springs. And just my two cents here: I like the dampers in the Air Lift kit better than the Koni Yellows I was running.

So how are those 800-1200 in/lb progressive air bag springs working out for you? I can only imagine hitting a bump in a corner with that much rate ramping up.

The only way for an air ride suspension to have any viability in a competitive way is to build the entire car around the springs.....since you can't change them. Usually, you build the suspension around the contact patch.

 

[mike4.0]

Curious if anyone else has run the ST XTA coil overs and how they turned out on the road and track?

 

[Mark Aubele]

Koni says the yellow should not be dropped more than 30 to 40mm. So 1.57 inches max or they can be damaged. I wonder how many damaged Koni Yellow were set at 1.5 inches or more? Combine that with a progressive spring and four people in the car and your are driving on the bottom of the Koni range of motion.
I realized I was asking to much of the car and the Konis to have 1.4 inch lower progressive 195 pound springs and changed my setup. At -1.4 there is only a half inch before you bring the bump stops into play. So now I am on 225 # springs in the rear with 5/8-3/4 inch drop. Front is 430# and 1/2 drop. Much better for me. Still looks good to me and drives well. Firm and not harsh.

That seems to be the case to me as well. Soft springs+too low=blown damper. I imagine the same thing would happen with most dampers.