steeda hd mounts vs. gt500 mounts

[HOTRODD77]

So I'm finally about to drop some coin and get lowered. My question is about the strut mounts I will be replacing. Are the gt5oo mounts a solid replacement, or do I really need to spend the extra $200 in the steeda mounts? I will be doing steeda sport springs, with koni's. I don't track the car, so strictly street driving. I'm not opposed to spending the extra money if I will truly benefit, but at the same time, if it's not necessary... How are both on the street? Any difference with nvh between the two at all? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[S197 GT]

Just go with the GT500 mounts.

With your mild drop, you won't need additional camber adjustment.

Make sure you get the M-18183-C ones. Give Jarrod at Latemodel Restoration a PM and he'll hook you up.

 

[HOTRODD77]

Sweet, thanks for the reply! Looks like you have those components as well.

 

[S197 GT]

Sweet, thanks for the reply! Looks like you have those components as well.

No sweat!

Make sure you get an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axle.

I recommend the on car adjustable poly bushing one from UMI. It's $108 or so.

You may want to consider LCA relocation brackets as well to correct the geometry of the LCA's. Steer clear of the CHE ones as I had an issue with them rubbing against my rear sway bar. Most others have a notch in them for this reason.

 

[HOTRODD77]

Thats actually the phb I am going with. You think I'll need to mess with the relocation brackets if I wont be racing it and the drop not being too significant?

 

[S197 GT]

Thats actually the phb I am going with. You think I'll need to mess with the relocation brackets if I wont be racing it and the drop not being too significant?

You don't NEED to change out the brackets.

They show up in the classifieds for about $85 pretty often. It's one of those mods that you don't need, but will benefit from.

 

[HOTRODD77]

Fair enough. Might be something I look at a little down the road...

 

[S197 GT]

Fair enough. Might be something I look at a little down the road...

Good idea.

See how you like it now, and down the road you can add them if you find a smokin deal.

 

[Sam Strano]

I don't think the GT500 mounts are a really smart move. They are same crappy, breakage prone design as stock mounts. Why on earth would you want to do that? And on top of it be left with no camber adjustment? I know, Steeda's cost more. If you wanted some negative camber and the stock types DIDN'T fail, I'd say there was a stronger case--but that's not the case.

As for the PHB. An adjustable one is recommended, but not required. In fact I'd much rather see you do the HD mounts than an adjustable PHB.

 

[Sleeper_08]

I have the Steeda LCAs and the reduced ground clearance under them is something to consider.

Mine are set slightly down at the back but that is to help get the power down when coming out of turn 5 at Mosport in second gear

 

[Vapour Trails]

I don't think the GT500 mounts are a really smart move. They are same crappy, breakage prone design as stock mounts. Why on earth would you want to do that? And on top of it be left with no camber adjustment?

Zactly. I replaced the stock mounts with HD steeda years ago and have never looked back in regret.

 

[captdistraction]

The steeda mounts still require parts from a 2005-10 mount, correct?

 

[waketek516]

I have the Steeda LCAs and the reduced ground clearance under them is something to consider.

Mine are set slightly down at the back but that is to help get the power down when coming out of turn 5 at Mosport in second gear

Yup - same here. I have the steeda LCA brackets and they're pretty much the lowest part of the car in the rear.

 

[Swoope]

I don't think the GT500 mounts are a really smart move. They are same crappy, breakage prone design as stock mounts. Why on earth would you want to do that? And on top of it be left with no camber adjustment? I know, Steeda's cost more. If you wanted some negative camber and the stock types DIDN'T fail, I'd say there was a stronger case--but that's not the case.

As for the PHB. An adjustable one is recommended, but not required. In fact I'd much rather see you do the HD mounts than an adjustable PHB.

wow,

good solid advice and saves money! how often does that happen, really?

sir sam, what is the drop that requires a adjustable pb? my guess from reading many forums is just over an inch of drop. and that is if you are going to use the car on a road course! as this section is about left and right!!! any drop more is kinda missing the point of left and right.



odd in this year of 2010 a car comes without a camber adjustment.

but what do i know, i am learning about the car.

from what i am reading is that for a semi aggressive track event driver, not running on r comps.

steeda linear sport springs
koni str
your sways front and back





beers

 

[B2B]

Swoop,

It's not that uncommon for cars not to have camber adjustment. For example, my wife's Infiniti M35. The majority of the drivers have no need to adjust camber and it is just another way for car manufacture to reduce cost and eliminate one more potential complain from new owners.

For panhard bar, I would also wait until after you lowered *your* car because manufacturing tolerance makes each car start from a slightly different starting point. Someone with an rear axle that is already biased toward the driver side is going to ends up further over once you lower the car. But someone who is biased toward the passenger side initially might have a perfectly centered axle once the car is lowered.

Someone also suggested loosening up the OEM panhard bar mount and retighten it as part of the rear spring/shock install. That make sense because the panhard bar may have been installed slightly off center from the factory.

For an aggressive open track car that is also a daily driver, I would suggest stepping up to the Koni Sport. I was told that Sport at the softest setting is similar to STR.T, and that feels too soft for me even for the street. On a recent track outing on a fairly rough track, I was using 2 turns on the front and 1.5 turn at the rear. Probably a *touch* too much at the rear, but the front felt just right. Hard braking from the top of 3rd gear into a rough patch of pavement did not have any sign of the front tires losing contact or the ABS kicking on. But this is a personal taste and you may be ok with less damping. My last track car was equipped with Koni D/A coil over and my preference is toward more shocks.

FC

 

[Sam Strano]

wow,

good solid advice and saves money! how often does that happen, really?

sir sam, what is the drop that requires a adjustable pb? my guess from reading many forums is just over an inch of drop. and that is if you are going to use the car on a road course! as this section is about left and right!!! any drop more is kinda missing the point of left and right.



odd in this year of 2010 a car comes without a camber adjustment.

but what do i know, i am learning about the car.

from what i am reading is that for a semi aggressive track event driver, not running on r comps.

steeda linear sport springs
koni str
your sways front and back





beers

I think you'd be at a level of performance that you'd want adjustable shocks, so I'd swap the STR.T's (pronounced "street", rightly so) for Koni Sports or even D-specs but the springs and bars are just what you want.

As for when you need an adjustable PHB. From a lowering/shifting standpoint, maybe never. My '11 got right when I slammed some 1.2" spring on it, it was off before. But I needed better lateral control than the stock PHB can give with the soft rubber bushings.

 

[ct07gt]

For street use and autocross would it make more sense to get the MM camber plates or the Steeda HD mounts? Can either one be easily adjusted or do they need to go get an alignment whenever the camber is changed. I do not know how much camber my Dunlops like but I can't afford to wear them out too fast by having too much camber on the street. I have a deal with my dealership that they buy me new tires when they wear out as long as they last 15k miles. I think they are going to be pretty close to making it.

On a side note I just had my first event since getting my rear Koni Sports, they were a definite improvement over the Roush shocks. One turn from soft seemed to work nice, I tried full soft and full firm as well. Full firm was not the way to go on a bumpy parking lot. I beat a Lotus Elise that has beaten me the last few events, so it was nice to see the upgrade pay off.

 

[ClassJ]

I have the Steeda mounts and the new GT500 mounts sitting on my desk. For some reason, when I look at the bearing in the Steeda mount it does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling. In comparison to other OEM mounts I have used on 80's porsches and the like the steeda mounts just seem like they have no surface area on the thrust bearing.

Are my concerns unfounded? Anyone install the steeda mounts and regret it? I have seen a few negative posts regarding noise, people having to replace the steeda thrust bearing, chewing up orings during install, etc.

Ford bearings are a crappy design, but I am not sold on the Steeda ones just yet for some reason......

I have the older GT500 mounts in the car now. They are a year old. Sometimes they creak and groan, sometimes they are quiet as a mouse. No rhyme or reason. They were quiet all winter. Once the weather warmed up they sounded like hell. Then they settled down over the past week or two since the new parts were ordered. Go figure.

 

[Sam Strano]

The Steeda stuff isn't fancy, but it's not a bunch of ball bearings pressed between two pieces of plastic..... and with the bushings and washers and the grease everything is free to turn. Sometimes the KISS principle applies. Keep it simple.

As for which for street. Well, that's like asking who's the hottest actress or what is the best car, everyone has an opinon.

Can you run a camber plate with spherical bearing on the street? Sure you can... and it will eventually make noise as that bearing develops a few thousandths of an inch of play between the ball and the race. I use the Steeda mounts for street cars. Hell I used them on my '07. I do have race type camber plates in my '11, and guess what... I know I do.

 

[ClassJ]

Sounds good Sam...I will keep that in mind. They just look a little different than other OEM mounts (not crappy ford ones) I have seen. Most people seem to like em.

Sitting here looking at the GT500 mounts, almost seems like a lubrication issue. I am sure the plastic balls turn to crap after a while but it would be nice if they had a way to get grease in the damn thing to help matters. A few statistically drilled holes a needle tip for a grease gun may do wonders.