Stock bottom hp capabilities

[fordman3000]

Just bought a 2010 gt/rr 4.6 with the gt500 blower on it says makes 450 wheel hp 52lb injectors wondering how much more bottom end could handle safely without going out

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Here's your answer explained in detail by Brent White at Brenspeed:

The weakest link are the stock connecting rods. The Coyote Gen 2-4 forged units (same as Boss 302) are an OEM+ upgrade, a direct swap, and are good for 700hp.

 

[StockishS197]

With a PD blower, you are about at the “safe” limit of 450rwhp. PD blowers hit with a lot more torque early which the stock powdered rods don’t appreciate.

Anything higher and you are on borrowed time with stock internals IMO.

 

[Pentalab]

It's already maxed out. The connecting rods in the 4.6l eng are pretzel sticks. The rods from the Boss 302 are 'sinster forged' and cheap....but a lot of work to install. Next up is the blower will be maxed out. The M122 is only 2.0 l.

If you want more power, Long tube headers, with high flow catted H would be the ticket. Then it's another 50 hp and another 60 ft lbs of tq..... both at the crankshaft. You are not making any more power, just freeing up a bunch of power, by taking a load off the crankshaft. That's the one mod that I did, that was blatantly obvious on my 2010 GT....with the small Roush M90 blower. It was like night and day difference.

 

[cavero]

+1 on the rods, you're at the limit of what they can take.

The crankshaft should be fine though, everything I've read has said it can take 700hp and short bursts up to 7000 RPM

How much HP can the stock crankshaft handle

do you think it could handle 700 on a regular basis? I have several posts stating it can handle up there in range.

www.s197forum.com

Stock Crank Failures?

Ok so i have been surfing through the threads and i cant find a stock crank failure.... has anyone tore one up? if so what number were you at, boost, etc. on a side note what cobra crank was the "good " one?

www.s197forum.com

 

[Kev555]

Stock rods are weak, I bent one last year just turning it overdue to a faulty injector flooding the cylinder.

 

[BoatsHateMe]

So if I want to increase the strength/reliability of my lower end in preparation for a SC capable of 500+ hp, forged connecting rods should be all I really need? I wouldn’t go crazy, I’m thinking that 500 rwhp range, maybe up to 650 but unlikely.

 

[Pentalab]

So if I want to increase the strength/reliability of my lower end in preparation for a SC capable of 500+ hp, forged connecting rods should be all I really need? I wouldn’t go crazy, I’m thinking that 500 rwhp range, maybe up to 650 but unlikely.

650 rwhp with the stock oem TR3660 manual tranny, not happening. It's only rated for 360 ft lbs of TQ.......and that's measured at the crankshaft, not the rear wheels.
With that much hp, or even with 450 rwhp, the 2010 needs a real LSD, like an Eaton tru-trac, DSS-DS, whiteline watts link, rear stb welded in, front stb, 11" wide rear rims, real tires, wide front tires like at least 285mm, various suspension mods, and possibly brake mods, rear axle catch can, and the list goes on and on and on.
Folks get hung up on globs of hp, then forget to supercharge the brakes and suspension. Then you end up with a real handful, and very easy to get in over your head....and fast like.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

So if I want to increase the strength/reliability of my lower end in preparation for a SC capable of 500+ hp, forged connecting rods should be all I really need? I wouldn’t go crazy, I’m thinking that 500 rwhp range, maybe up to 650 but unlikely.

What @Pentalab said to a tee.
As far as the 4.6 short block goes, forged connecting rods would be the bare minimum (Gen 2-4 Coyote rods are an inexpensive upgrade) but since you'd preferably also want forged pistons e.g. Manley, you could get forged Manley rods/pistons as a package. These came as standard in the Terminator 4.6 short block. The stock nodular iron crank is strong enough to handle 700hp.
As far as the TR3650 transmission goes, although it was rated at only 360lbft at the crank, I suspect that the limiting factor was actually the stock clutch assembly. The transmission itself can handle more but if you run semi-slick or slick tires, the stock axleshafts are known to break as well as the transmission. It's better to upgrade to the TR6060 6-speed manual (rated to 600lbft at the crank) and swap in a pair of Moser 31-spline axleshafts.
Brake upgrades are an absolute must, and the GT500 front calipers/rotors are a popular choice.

 

[Pentalab]

What @Pentalab said to a tee.
As far as the 4.6 short block goes, forged connecting rods would be the bare minimum (Gen 2-4 Coyote rods are an inexpensive upgrade) but since you'd preferably also want forged pistons e.g. Manley, you could get forged Manley rods/pistons as a package. These came as standard in the Terminator 4.6 short block. The stock nodular iron crank is strong enough to handle 700hp.
As far as the TR3650 transmission goes, although it was rated at only 360lbft at the crank, I suspect that the limiting factor was actually the stock clutch assembly. The transmission itself can handle more but if you run semi-slick or slick tires, the stock axleshafts are known to break as well as the transmission. It's better to upgrade to the TR6060 6-speed manual (rated to 600lbft at the crank) and swap in a pair of Moser 31-spline axleshafts.
Brake upgrades are an absolute must, and the GT500 front calipers/rotors are a popular choice.

Eaton tru trac comes in 2 x versions. Mine has the 3.5:1 bias ratio...and has the 3 x side gears on each side..and uses the oem 31 splined axle shafts. The HD version has 4 x side gears per side, and the casing is thicker / stronger BUT requires 33 spline axleshafts....... and only moser and strange engineering make the 33 spline axle shafts. The beefed up version tru-trac is $150.00 more and typ recommended if your 60' times are down to 1.4 sec range.

I also installed the BMR 1/4" thick plate that goes transverse at the back end, with the 2" wide / 1/4" thick NHRA safety loop around the3.5" aluminum DSS-DS. That's the tunnel brace. Between the BMR brace and extreme sides went in the pair of steeda triangular chromoly steel sub frame connectors....that are bolted and welded in. Then the pair of steeda chromoly jacking rails down each side. Then when changing tires, the jack is put in the middle, and u jack the entire right side / left side of the car up...like nascar.

My 2010 came with the ford oem 'A' arm brace...which actually just ties the K frame together. Just in front of the oem ford brace went in the BMR real deal A arm brace that actually does tie the A arms together. It sits a few inches n front of the oem ford brace, and just aft of the oil pan. Full roush suspension was installed. 1" drop on the front and 1.25" on the rear. The roush suspension uses front struts that are 1/2" shorter than oem. The roush front springs are 1/2" shorter ( and stiffer). That's how they get the 1" total front end lowering. The roush front and rear sway bars are a lot bigger diam vs oem. Then the steeda chromoly braces went in the front end, that bolt to the roush front sway bars. Steeda eng mounts used, which allow a stock height, or 1/4" - 1/2" - 3/4" lowering of the eng. I used the 1/4" lowering option. That 1/4" lowering of the eng allowed better clearance between the roush cai and the steeda adjustable front STB. The steeda brace over the eng is bolted on each side with the 4 x bolts used for the steeda adjustable camber assy. camber set to max negative camber. Steeda eng mounts are a lot stiffer vs the ford oem gel filled eng mounts. Ok, now the eng doesn't flop about side to side anymore. The entire mess is now..... 'solidified'.

Then in went the CDC 2.5" silicone hoses for the air cooled front brakes via the mating CDC 14" front dust shields.... and no more brake stink. Brake rotors replaced with slotted types, and better brake pads. CDC lower spoiler used in conjunction with the CDC air cooled front brake assy...which also forces more air into the lower grille.

On the oem 2010 GT, the upper grille is 80% blocked off, and is semi useless. It was replaced with a 7 bar grille....( which also deletes the oem upper fog lamps). Ok, now air goes straight into the 'snorkel' that feeds air into the oem airbox, with it's K+N filter. The 2010 box flows more air than the 11-12 cars...and way more than the 05-09 airboxes.
With the stock, oem upper grille, the air goes in, and has to do a 90 deg right angle, then a 2nd 90 deg left angle to even get into the 'snorkel'. With the 7 bar grille, u can now see the 'snorkel'....and air is now in a straight line..... and boost increases slightly on the hwy. Entire eng bay runs a helluva lot cooler with the 7 x bar upper grille, like 40F cooler.

I installed JBA titanium LT's and mating JBA hi-flow catted H section. The LT's are ceramic coated both inside and outside, and after a romp, I can push down on any of the 8 x primary tubes and not burn my fingers. The internal exhaust temps are higher...which results in faster exhaust flow. The oem H section was a screwball mess. Where the H pipes overlap, the smaller diam H section has a disc welded inside of it.... with a puny 3/8" hole in it! wtf ? The JBA H pipe doesn't have the useless disc, and gets the full 2.5" diam H section.

Also that went in was the BMR HD adjustable UCA....and also the pair of HD boxed BMR LCA's...along with the BMR 3 x position bracket, that lowers the pair of LCA's at the axle end. The 2010 comes with wheel hop, right outa the box. The rear LCA's have to be lower at axle end, so the middle position is used. The bracket allows for a 2"-3"-4" drop. The 4" is never used. Get the rear LCA's too low, and the opposite of wheel hop is called brake hop. White lines version is fixed with the 3" drop....and uses same construction, using laminated 1/4" and 3/16" welded steel plates...... and the BMR version is bolted in 3 x places ( axle weights tossed, which did nothing anyway).

Sri for the diatribe, but this is all the BS you have to go through to make these cars handle properly and safely, esp when a PD blower is being used. With a PD blower, it's max instant boost, right from idle. You get the instant big tq hit. Mine is an automatic, so when the gas is mashed, instant boost and it drops gears, then hang on for the ride, cuz it will slam ur head into the headrest. The auto is another mixed bag. Had to use a deeper pan that holds an extra 4 qts of synthetic ATF. Then the catch can for the automatic, then a 2nd auto tranny cooler ( B+M bar + plate type) in series with the oem cooler. Then the 32 x software adjustments for the auto tranny have to be carefully tweaked, when a blower used. Shifts have to be firmer and faster. I'm not impressed with my 305-35-19 MPSS on the rear. Mine are on 19x 10" rims.... they should be on 11" wide rims. As is, I can start off at a greenlight, in 3rd gear, mash the gas, shriek of rubber, and off it goes to 145 kph....all in 3rd gear. 1st gear is useless on these cars. 1st thing u wanna do is get into 2nd gear, then hit it.

Without all the various suspension mods, stiffening etc, the car is a handful....and dangerous imo.