Stroker build questions

[go302]

Just planning ahead and looking for input. This will be my first build and I'm looking to turn the motor at 7000 rpm as a daily driver/street car. Planning on getting an oil-less turbo in the future but right now first thing's first. Just want a solid bottom end that will be able to handle 600 rwhp on 93 octane reliably. This is just a tentative plan on what I want. Suggestions from experience are welcomed. Haven't looked into a builder yet but I was just hoping I could get the pieces shipped to someone like livernois or something. I would really love to build it myself but don't know of any reputable machine shops in my area.

Pistons – Diamond Forged Pistons – 20cc dished
http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/22025522.htm
Rods – Manley Forged Stroker H-Beams – 5.850” rod length
http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/man14042-8.htm
Crank – Eagle 4340 Forged Stroker Crank – 3.750” stroke
http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/eag428137505933.htm


Gonna run the stock heads with new springs, retainers, and I'm gonna keep the mutha thumpr cams.

 

[JoshK]

For 600hp save yourself a bunch of money. Buy a set of ACE rods, use the stock crank, and buy my pistons.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100638

 

[go302]

For 600hp save yourself a bunch of money. Buy a set of ACE rods, use the stock crank, and buy my pistons.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100638

I really just want to build something that in the future I can just add race gas, more boost and ported heads and make tons of power. I'm a lay a foundation first kinda guy. Although tempting, your pistons will likely be sold by the time I pull the trigger on anything.

 

[05stroker]

If your planning on having a shop build it then there is your answer, Pick a shop and go with what they suggest. I would keep the comp to at least 9.3:1 myself. I have 18cc dish pistons and that is a 9.0:1 and I feel I may have left some free power on the table with my setup. If I had it to do again I would run more comp and less boost. Or more boost and less timing.

 

[908ssp]

High revs are harder on motors than high boost. Longer stroke is harder on motors than short stroke. High boost means more heat in the heat exchanger system verses higher compression ratio. Both need to be tuned properly to prevent detonation the first thing that kills motors.

 

[suprchrgd]

if i were to do it again, id reuse my stock crank, grab a set of rods and pistons (10.5 compression) run e85 on 15# and call it a day. Would be good for 600-700 whp all day long.

 

[GhostPsalm]

I'm right with you bro...i have a goal of 535rwhp with a V3. I really don't want to spend the money on a full forged bottom end, so maybe now I just look at rods and pistons since those are the weak links.

I too have heard many say they wish they would have gone higher than 9.0 comp

 

[blownGTvert]

I have a Brenspeed B302 rotating assy with CP pistons @ 9.8:1 compression. Great combo with my Kenne bell @ 20psi on E85.

 

[go302]

Maybe just going rods and pistons will free up some cash for me to do a little weight reduction in the process. I want 550-600 at the wheels on pump gas. I'm really thinking it might be my best option to buy the aluminator and a turbo kit. I want this thing to be a roll monster so I want to keep my 4.10s and rev to 7k. I honestly don't think 7k is overdoing it. I'll definitely get some new springs though. Maybe have my heads ported while I'm a it

I live in Tyler, tx and I don't know of anywhere around here I can get e85. Would be nice though

 

[05stroker]

I live in Tyler, tx and I don't know of anywhere around here I can get e85. Would be nice though

There is not an e85 station here, I have checked. And whats up neighbor! I didnt know you where local. You need to talk to Randy Ortigo at Ortigo Performance here in Tyler, and Charlie Ray at Rays Engine in Tyler as well. Rays machines them and Ortigo builds them. Feel free to PM me if needed.

 

[Mike K]

You'll want to change the 4.10's for something like a 3.55 for the turbo to help spool it.

 

[go302]

You'll want to change the 4.10's for something like a 3.55 for the turbo to help spool it.

Would the lower gears not help spool the turbo faster? Quicker revs?

 

[go302]

There is not an e85 station here, I have checked. And whats up neighbor! I didnt know you where local. You need to talk to Randy Ortigo at Ortigo Performance here in Tyler, and Charlie Ray at Rays Engine in Tyler as well. Rays machines them and Ortigo builds them. Feel free to PM me if needed.

Awesome, I was unaware of any local builders that were reputable. I'll definitely PM you when the time rolls around. If they check out then I'll be able to go with a custom rotating assembly which I'd much rather do. I'm about to be off a year before med school so I'll have some spare time and money working full time

 

[go302]

You'll want to change the 4.10's for something like a 3.55 for the turbo to help spool it.

Hmm after further reading I guess it goes against what you would think. 3.55 is probably the highest gear I'd go to.

Edit: I'm building this car to be a roll monster. I want a big turbo and I want to rev to 7k. I'll Going to go with my original rotating assembly and stay at stock stroke instead and aim at 9.5:1 compression. My intuition leads me to believe 4.10s would help spool the big turbo faster, but I'd be shifting more. Conversely, I feel a higher gear would spool the turbo slower, but I'd be in boost longer throughout the gear. Which is better? This isn't a track car at all btw, strictly a street/roll race car. In that aspect it seems a higher gear would be best. I might take it to the track once or twice but roll races are much more fun to me.

 

[go302]

Man there are literally so many ways to build a fast car I can't make my mind up!

 

[BruceH]

Man there are literally so many ways to build a fast car I can't make my mind up!

I'm a fan of keeping the stock crank and just doing rods and pistons. I've done it with two motors and used a 7k redline without any issues. The stock crank is strong and my car will never be an all out racer. It's just a fun car for driving and hitting a few test and tunes every year.

Are you changing your mind from the turbo?

 

[05stroker]

Awesome, I was unaware of any local builders that were reputable. I'll definitely PM you when the time rolls around. If they check out then I'll be able to go with a custom rotating assembly which I'd much rather do. I'm about to be off a year before med school so I'll have some spare time and money working full time

I did just what you are looking to do. I bought all the parts and contacted Ortigo Performance to assemble it for me. He will give you a price for labor only or what ever you want. Even if you have him do it all he will still use Ray Engine for the machine work as that's what everyone here does.

Randy is not a big shop or anything, but he has been here for a long time and would never point you in the wrong direction. He is not the fastest either. He is pretty laid back. Give him 4-6 weeks notice if you want him to do the work. If you call him and go meet him you will see what I mean. He is some what of an "old school" race guy.

Same goes for Charlie Ray at Ray engine for the machine work. He is the fanciest shop you can find but he does nice honest work and because of me has the torque plate and everything to do it right.

These are good honest men that are not out to be the biggest or the best on line, just good people that know what they are doing. I wouldn't use them otherwise.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Billy

 

[go302]

I'm a fan of keeping the stock crank and just doing rods and pistons. I've done it with two motors and used a 7k redline without any issues. The stock crank is strong and my car will never be an all out racer. It's just a fun car for driving and hitting a few test and tunes every year.

Are you changing your mind from the turbo?

No, I'm still going with a turbo. 2nd option would be procharger, but is much rather have a turbo. I guess I could save a few bucks and go with the stock crank. I don't plan on going over 6-700 at the wheels and if it can hold that and rev 7k then I'm fine with that.

 

[go302]

I did just what you are looking to do. I bought all the parts and contacted Ortigo Performance to assemble it for me. He will give you a price for labor only or what ever you want. Even if you have him do it all he will still use Ray Engine for the machine work as that's what everyone here does.

Randy is not a big shop or anything, but he has been here for a long time and would never point you in the wrong direction. He is not the fastest either. He is pretty laid back. Give him 4-6 weeks notice if you want him to do the work. If you call him and go meet him you will see what I mean. He is some what of an "old school" race guy.

Same goes for Charlie Ray at Ray engine for the machine work. He is the fanciest shop you can find but he does nice honest work and because of me has the torque plate and everything to do it right.

These are good honest men that are not out to be the biggest or the best on line, just good people that know what they are doing. I wouldn't use them otherwise.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Billy

That's exactly what I wanted to hear! Thanks for the help. I'll make sure to get in contact with you once this thing starts up.

 

[retfr8flyr]

If you are planning to rev to 7000 all the time I would recommend spending the extra for a forged crank. The stock crank is a good piece and will hold a lot of power but it doesn't like high rpm's. The stocker doesn't have the extra counter balance the forged crank does and is susceptible to vibrations at high rpm's.


Earl