Strut Tower Brace Questions

[Lannyl81]

Again on daughter's 08 GT; is there a fit issue with all tower braces and fitting under the stock hood? Or does something have to be done to raise the hood, shims??...in order to have brace and get the hood to close?

I tried one brand some years ago which interfered with the hood closing and had to remove it.

Is there a brand that fits?

Thanks

 

[Juice]

I got a factory 11-14 GT brace on mine.
That said, the only fitment issues I read about were the brace not clearing a roots style supercharger.

 

[GlassTop09]

Again on daughter's 08 GT; is there a fit issue with all tower braces and fitting under the stock hood? Or does something have to be done to raise the hood, shims??...in order to have brace and get the hood to close?

I tried one brand some years ago which interfered with the hood closing and had to remove it.

Is there a brand that fits?

Thanks

I have the stock hood on my '09 Stang w\ the underside insulation still installed & I have used 2 STB's w\ no issues clearing the hood....
1 was the Stack Racing STB (the larger 1 that fits over either a V6 or V8 engine...it will just fit over a Ford Racing Performance Intake Manifold by approx 1\8"-1\4" w\ 4.6L using the OEM motor mounts but still clears the hood)
& 1 is the OEM Ford 10-14 "Boss 302" STB (like Juice has) which also cleared the same FRPIM by approx 3\4" w\ 4.6L using the OEM motor mounts (this STB is visible in my avatar picture above) when I still had it installed will also clear the stock hood.

Hope this helps.

 

[Aerofinz]

On my setup (2007), I did not have enough clearance for the Ford Performance intake:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-racing-intake-manifold.html

In fact, this is a quote from the above link: "Will not fit with Ford Racing Strut Tower Braces".

Others may be having luck, it was sooo tight on mine, just the movement/rocking of the engine with a cam would likely have caused interference between the above intake and Ford Racing brace. YMMV.

 

[Pentalab]

The Boss 302 strut brace actually 1st came out in 2010, used on the 2010 GT. It was used on the 2011 V6 cars, since it cleared the higher intake assy. It was used on the Boss 302 cars, and at that point was renamed the 'boss 302 stb'.

Once my M90 blower was installed on my 2010 GT, the boss 302 stb would not clear the roush CAI assy, so I sold it to a local buddy who owns a 2008 GT ( NA eng) and it clears everything, including hood, just fine.

I ended up using the steeda STB. We found 2 x steeda stbs that would clear the Roush M90..and still clear the hood..... but it just touched the rubber cai. When I installed the JBA LT's, I tossed the oem eng mounts and installed the steeda eng mounts, which allow for a stock eng height, or a 1/4" - 1/2" - 3/4" eng drop. We used the 1/4" eng drop option. Then the steeda stb clears the rubber cai just fine.

One of the fellows on the roush forum used a light + go-pro camera, + ruler, to measure the hood clearance, with hood shut. It worked good. He used one version of the steeda stb, and I used their other version, and both clear the M90 blower...and the 'power dome hood' used on the 10-12 cars. We let steeda know that 2 versions of their many stbs cleared the m90 and other blowers..and still cleared the hood, which is now reflected in their ads.

AM sells the polished boss 302 stb, which looks pretty good on 05-14 cars.

 

[skwerl]

Keep in mind there's only an inch or so clearance between the intake manifold and hood to begin with. All of them are going to be close. If it clears the engine then it's going to press into the hood insulation. Also, if you put it on backwards it may hit as well. Make sure it's not backwards.

For more aggressive solutions you can use an aftermarket K member with lowered motor mounts. If it's hitting the hood then you may be able to bend it slightly to flatten it out.

 

[Lannyl81]

Thanks for the replies & info. I do not remember what brand I had purchased that did not fit. I did try it both ways and always interfered with the hood closing.
Will have to try again with the ones mentioned above.

Thanks once again.

 

[brford]

I ordered a strut tower brace for my 06 GT convertible from one of the Mustang specialists. When it arrived it looked suspiciously flat. Upon opening the box it was clear that the brace had been run over at least once by a large object flattening it out. The part was then probably shoved in another box. I contacted the specialist sending photos and rather than returning it we arranged for me to cut it into pieces with my reciprocating saw and send photos of the destroyed part. I got a refund for that part and shipping but another brace wasn't available. I wound up getting the part from another specialist months later. I had issues with that part too (no hardware for the plaque that mounts in the center) but they were quick to offer me a very generous store credit. I know it is how I drive but I find the brace makes the car more stable when turning (and it is a convertible).

 

[Norm Peterson]

I ordered a strut tower brace for my 06 GT convertible from one of the Mustang specialists. When it arrived it looked suspiciously flat. Upon opening the box it was clear that the brace had been run over at least once by a large object flattening it out. The part was then probably shoved in another box. I contacted the specialist sending photos and rather than returning it we arranged for me to cut it into pieces with my reciprocating saw and send photos of the destroyed part. I got a refund for that part and shipping but another brace wasn't available. I wound up getting the part from another specialist months later. I had issues with that part too (no hardware for the plaque that mounts in the center) but they were quick to offer me a very generous store credit. I know it is how I drive but I find the brace makes the car more stable when turning (and it is a convertible).

Convertibles have the most to gain from a 2-point STB, but even there the gains are mostly limited to subjective feel rather than any objective improvements in actual car performance.

Subjective feel certainly has value in the overall scheme of driving.


Norm

 

[LarryJM]

I felt it was a big difference.

 

[Lannyl81]

Is there a difference between the STB's that bolt on with four holes vrs the two holes on each tower?

 

[Norm Peterson]

I felt is was a big difference.

You'll feel it more than the car's performance will. It's a structural vibrations thing more than it's a general chassis stiffness thing.

Goes to driver confidence in a subjective manner.


Norm

 

[Pentalab]

Is there a difference between the STB's that bolt on with four holes vrs the two holes on each tower?

Yes. I had the FRPP Boss 302 brace on my 2010, and it uses 2 x slots at each end of the brace. Those 4 x bolts at each strut are only 26 ft lbs...dick. My problem with the slotted STB's is.... it's not solid, with 2 x slots at each end of the brace..and a paltry 26 ft lbs. One good smack, and they will shift on you.

I replaced it with the STEEDA STB. (boss 302 STB would not clear the roush M90 blower, so after blower installed, the boss 302 STB had to be removed). I also installed STEEDA HD adjustable strut mounts, which allow for camber adjustment. (then set the camber to -1.5 degs on each side).

The steeda STB uses all 4 x holes at each end. The steeda uses holes, NOT slots. The reason for the slots on the frpp STB's is simple, their length can't be adjusted. On the steeda STB, they use spherical's on each end, and the overall length of their STB can be adjusted, with lock nuts on the CM threaded ends....just like a turnbuckle. One end is reverse threaded ( just like a turnbuckle).... so the overall length adjustment is easy. With 4 x bolts, into 4 x snug fitting holes...at each end, it's bullet proof, it can't budge. The steeda STB is designed to work in conjunction with the steeda HD strut mounts.

Another advantage to the steeda stb is the transverse bolt can be loosened at both ends, and transverse bolt removed at say driver's side, and the STB can be swung up. I had to do this to gain clearance when I swapped out the oem twin 55 mm TB with the bigger FRPP twin 62mm TB. Also had to swing the STB up on driver's side to gain access to plug #8 (driver's side, closest to firewall).

 

[GlassTop09]

Yes. I had the FRPP Boss 302 brace on my 2010, and it uses 2 x slots at each end of the brace. Those 4 x bolts at each strut are only 26 ft lbs...dick. My problem with the slotted STB's is.... it's not solid, with 2 x slots at each end of the brace..and a paltry 26 ft lbs. One good smack, and they will shift on you.

This is true.
But to counter this potential slippage as much as possible w\ these types of STB's (regardless of 2-slot or 4-slot per side), I used flanged, serrated locking nuts instead of the OEM upper strut mount nuts to actually bite into the STB's metal flange when tightened to increase slip resistance.....this will make these STB's more effective than they'd be otherwise.....won't equal tight hole fitment but is an improvement vs using the OEM nuts. The downside is these serrated locking nuts WILL scar the STB's metal flange so know this up front if you do decide to go there.
I just installed a couple of strut tower covers over mine to hide the nuts & scarring on the STB flange (as seen in my avatar) so all looks clean.
I only used the serrated locking nuts on the studs where the STB mounted over (no need to use them otherwise) so I wouldn't needlessly scar up the car's strut tower metal surfaces.
The more you R&R the STB using these nuts, the more slip resistant the STB becomes thus improve on it's effectiveness (nuts will cut a circle into the STB flange's surface) FWIW.

I did consider to buy this same Steeda STB you have but I'd already bought so I went McGuyver mode to try to make it better..........but I'm still NA so that option is technically still on the table at some point in the future.

 

[Pentalab]

This is true.
But to counter this potential slippage as much as possible w\ these types of STB's (regardless of 2-slot or 4-slot per side), I used flanged, serrated locking nuts instead of the OEM upper strut mount nuts to actually bite into the STB's metal flange when tightened to increase slip resistance.....this will make these STB's more effective than they'd be otherwise.....won't equal tight hole fitment but is an improvement vs using the OEM nuts. The downside is these serrated locking nuts WILL scar the STB's metal flange so know this up front if you do decide to go there.
I just installed a couple of strut tower covers over mine to hide the nuts & scarring on the STB flange (as seen in my avatar) so all looks clean.
I only used the serrated locking nuts on the studs where the STB mounted over (no need to use them otherwise) so I wouldn't needlessly scar up the car's strut tower metal surfaces.
The more you R&R the STB using these nuts, the more slip resistant the STB becomes thus improve on it's effectiveness (nuts will cut a circle into the STB flange's surface) FWIW.

I did consider to buy this same Steeda STB you have but I'd already bought so I went McGuyver mode to try to make it better..........but I'm still NA so that option is technically still on the table at some point in the future.

I believe the steeda STB came with 8 x new nuts. The 8 x nuts fit way down into the recessed holes. They made the holes big enough diam, to get a socket wrench / tq wrench in there. Since I'm using the steeda front strut mounts..that allow for negative camber, the 8 x nuts are initially loosened up, camber dialed in, then 8 x nuts tightened. Once torqued down, they are not touched. Meanwhile the actual steeda STB can be installed..after the fact, with both it's length adjustable, then installed, and tightened up. IE: the actual STB install/length adjustment, and lock down is 100% independent of the 8 x STB nuts.

 

[White Horse GTCS 2008]

Great question- how to find a quality strut tower brace that clears both the manifold and hood.

I am now exploring this modest and sensible mod for my Mustang GT 2008 California Special.

I have just purchased the Steeda option- it’s on its way to Australia as I write this. I will have it installed in April. I will try to provide an update once completed.