swflastang05's build thread

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

Great thread swflastang05 !
Love the details and high quality pics.

I like the looks of those Strange rear brakes

 

[swflastang05]

looking great kyle , that shop i think if needed i will use
on my next venture .looks like they do VERY nice work .
hopefully next week i will have mine going again , i started it
up the day you got yours back and the cam phaser sheared
off/loose from the new cam . ARGGGGGGGG.
maybe we can still make Maple grove , LOL .
Good luck to ya buddy !

Yes HRE's work is second to none, you just can't be in a hurry to get your stuff back from them. Damn that sucks about your cam phaser, how the heck did that happen?

That's some good turn around time, and looking good re-assembled

Thanks, this is my third build with this motor over the past two years, I'm getting the hang of it now lol

Great thread swflastang05 !
Love the details and high quality pics.

I like the looks of those Strange rear brakes

Thanks, me too, even if they didn't shave a ton of weight (which they did) I still would buy them since they look cool, lol

 

[swflastang05]

Okay I had an OCD attack yesterday when I couldn't remember if I double checked that all the rings where installed with the proper bevel's, the top ring bevel is supposed to face up, and the second ring bevel is supposed to face down, I know I checked the first two but couldn't remember the others. The only way to cure this was to pop out 6 pistons and check them again, otherwise it would bother me forever, so I did. Turns out they were all correct. At least I have my peace of mind now, and it only cost me an hour or so. That being said I didn't make as much progress as I wanted but still did get some done. Finished installing and adjusting the head studs.


Installed the heads, torqued to 100 lb ft in 3 equal steps while making sure the studs don't turn. This was actually a fairly painless process this time, both previous builds the studs turned and was stressful..


Prepared to degree the cams in by installing adjustable solid lash adjusters on #1 and #6 intake valves. Measuring the OEM adjusters and setting the solids to the same height. Next install the timing components.



Next find TDC on the compression stroke of #1, and set the degree wheel.


Finally, degreeing the cams can begin by setting the dial indicator at zero when the intake valve is at max lift, and making sure there is sufficient preload. Then rotate the crank clockwise until the dial reads .050 before max lift, record the number on the degree wheel, then proceed to .050 after max lift. Add that number to the first and divide by two, this is your intake centerline. My cams are supposed to be at 112, the left side came in at exactly 112 two times in a row, this was with the adjustable crank gear set at 4A. I moved to the other side and ran into a snag where my dial indicator locked up on me, WTF? Never had that happen before but nonetheless it did. I attempted to use another one I had but it wasn't working, lastly I tried the gauge from my bore dial gauge but it was the wrong scale being .0005 rather than .001. I did try it a few times with the crappy gauge and it came out at 115. Today I picked up a new gauge and will take another stab at it tonight.

 

[05stroker]

Keep at it, you are getting close!

 

[swflastang05]

Keep at it, you are getting close!

Yes I think I can see the light coming up at the end of the tunnel!

I made some more progress last night, degreed the right side cam in, had to set the crank gear at 8A but the final result is 111.5 and the left is at 112, with 112 being the goal so that came out good. Removed the solid lash adjusters and reassembled the cam drive for the final time before cranking.



moved on to the the bottom end


Primed the motor via pump sprayer style


Installed the timing cover, valve covers, spark plugs, COP's, water pump and front seal, now we're getting there!


Next will be the balancer, then that pesky back engine cover, rear main, oil slinger and bolting the oil pan down to its new home.

I will also pressurize the coolant system while the motor is still on the stand to check for leaks before reinstalling the motor back into the car. I will do the same with the crank case, at about 2 psi.

 

[pics06gtstang]

almost but still so far .
great job kyle very professional and great looking
job you are doing .
as far as my phaser i just dunno what happened , new phaser and bolt and
it was tight , for that locator pin to shear i just dont know .

 

[swflastang05]

almost but still so far .
great job kyle very professional and great looking
job you are doing .
as far as my phaser i just dunno what happened , new phaser and bolt and
it was tight , for that locator pin to shear i just dont know .

Thank you,

Made some more progress yesterday, mocked up the cooling system less the radiator and pressurized it, found a leak at a new connection I made at the crossover tube, fixed it, and proceeded with testing. I was very pleased to confirm there are no more leaks! I know this is not really necessary but I'm still a little traumatized from breaking my previous two blocks.

Pressure testing octopus


modified additional cooling, the middle fitting is where the leak was. I decided to loop that back to the water pump rather than simply cork them figuring Ford circulated the coolant that way for a reason, with or without a heater. I didn't want to risk improper cooling so I simply bypassed the heater and looped the two connections together via -8an fittings and line.


Installing that pesky rear cover


Yes the gasket maker is on a little thick, I don't want it to leak! I cleaned it off on the inside after torquing the bolts down.




Oil pan installed. I had a brand new pan gasket and windage tray for 2013 GT 500 but found it was broken right out of the box! one of the rails was completely cracked and would have leaked like crazy. I got that from Steve @ Tasca but it was a long time ago I just never used it until now, and since oil touched it I'm probably SOL. In any case I had to clean and reuse my old one.

Balancer Installed


Headers, oil dip stick and motor mounts on, now she's pretty much ready to drop back into the car, maybe take a stab at it tonight or tomorrow.




Then I'll still need to finalize the front end alignment settings before I can drive it, check over the new brake system, and hope I did the wire tuck correctly, among other things that I'm probably forgetting right now! Oh and upload the new tune from LITO for the ID 1300's. And pump out the 4 month old e85 and replace it with fresh...the list goes on!

 

[bujeezus]

<drool>

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

<drool>

LOL

I'm drooling as well.

Gotta be the most detailed engine thread I have ever seen.

 

[bujeezus]

Makes me wish I could learn how to do this kinda shit myself. Those headers are pure sex. Wish you could still see them after the engine was back in.

 

[travelers]

Makes me wish I could learn how to do this kinda shit myself. Those headers are pure sex. Wish you could still see them after the engine was back in.

Actually you can if you know where to look. Mine kind of pop out at you because they are ceramic white from Swain.

 

[roberts]

i have the same problem i am leaking from the middle one under the intake and cant get it to stop. So let me know how u fixed it!!

 

[travelers]

i have the same problem i am leaking from the middle one under the intake and cant get it to stop. So let me know how u fixed it!!

We use the orange high temp silicone on the headers for the race car and they seal up well. I used it on both sides of the gaskets when I installed my headers.

 

[swflastang05]

I've had a busy past couple days, I'm pleased to report I finally got everything back together and cranked the new motor for the first time this morning, and it started right up! Here's a few pics from the journey.







One of these was leaking though - more on that to come






My car moved on its own power for the first time in 3 months today!


It took a while to get everything back together since I made so many changes while the motor was out, I had to do some tweaking including more wire extending for the wire tuck, I reconfigured the fuel system a bit where both rails have a line coming in the back then each return comes out the front and to the regulator and back to the tank. Also had to finish the alignment since I installed the adjustable front a-arms, re-calibrate the o2 sensors for the AFR gauges, etc. Not to mention I moved the radiator forward a bit which made extra room but also resulted in the blower tubes needing to be tweaked, which is a massive PITA but I got it done. After all that and more it started right up first try this morning! It had been so long I forgot how to drive it, I went to put it in reverse for the first time and was like WTF when it didn't move, well I forgot you have to push the TB button for reverse with my 4r70w valve body, duh!

After working out a few bugs (AFG gauges not working, trans temp gauge not working, etc.) I went for a drive and did a few quick 3rd gear WOT cycles from about 2500 - 5500 with hard decel to start seating the rings. Upon returning home and inspecting I found a small coolant leak under the intake, which was no surprise. One of the fittings I installed was kind of "iffy" and sure enough it was leaking. I had to pull the intake and crossover tube so I can have it tig welded tomorrow, then put it back together again and finish seating the rings and breaking in the new motor.

 

[Scott]

Fantastic Kyle!

 

[86GT351]

Great job. Have to ask though. Why a Fram Filter and not Ford?

 

[swflastang05]

Fantastic Kyle!

Thanks Scott! It was a lot of work (again, I forgot how much, lol) but well worth it!

Great job. Have to ask though. Why a Fram Filter and not Ford?

Lol, that's just for break in, after the rings are seated and the first oil change it will be the FRPP filter.

 

[pics06gtstang]

how does she feel ,badass i hope .
shit you went non stop once ya got your block back .
once again great job , excellent thread , and very clean job .
Your pride shows : )

 

[swflastang05]

how does she feel ,badass i hope .
shit you went non stop once ya got your block back .
once again great job , excellent thread , and very clean job .
Your pride shows : )

Yes, she pulled hard today during those short wot bursts, even in the sweltering heat! I forgot how good that feels, lol. Yes it drives me nuts having everything I need to get it back together but just sitting there, I cannot let that happen!

 

[bujeezus]

Awesome man. Finally!