swflastang05's build thread

pics06gtstang

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What about running some vent/tubing from the unused brake cooling holes in the fascia to the i/c ?
I don't think you will be using them holes (ports)
In the 1/4 .
 

travelers

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What about running some vent/tubing from the unused brake cooling holes in the fascia to the i/c ?
I don't think you will be using them holes (ports)
In the 1/4 .

He might get something out of the left side but not much out of the right because of the piping to the HE.
 

swflastang05

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dunno, but maybe trimming those plastic bits that stick out from the rest of the bumper, and attempting to fence in the IC so that any air that does go in gets forced through the IC instead of just wrapping around it.

looks like a big opening to the passenger side and the main part visible sticking down is solid and no finned area

That's a pretty damn good idea, I'll look into that sometime.

What about running some vent/tubing from the unused brake cooling holes in the fascia to the i/c ?
I don't think you will be using them holes (ports)
In the 1/4 .

You know what's funny is there have been lights in those holes since I bought my car, which came with that nose, I didn't even know that's what those holes are for lol. I took the lights out so it would fit better with the new bumper and not have to cut as much away for clearance.

He might get something out of the left side but not much out of the right because of the piping to the HE.

Probably not enough room for that, the front of the IC pretty much touches the back of the nose.

I'm not too worried about this in the big scheme of things, but something to look at sometime for sure. I want to get to the track again to make sure the tune is 100%, then my gears, I'm pretty sure the 4.10's I have now are too much gear for this combo but I want to run it one more time before switching them out. Then I'll experiment with running without the air filter, which supposedly makes a big difference, I can confirm the filter is collapsed from all the suction. Also I have a smaller pulley to try out to maximize the efficiency of the compressor, many things to work on in the coming months, but mostly want to enjoy the car again for a while.
 

swflastang05

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Well I've had an intermittent tranny fluid leak, sometimes I would find a puddle under the car and sometimes it stayed bone dry for days, there was no tranny fluid above the pan gasket so I figured that must be the issue, I ordered a new Moroso reusable gasket and new filter, and did the deed today, I found the old pan gasket somehow rusted in the same corner where it was leaking, that was the issue! New gasket and filter, plus 6 quarts of fluid and I'm back in business. Still planning to get to the track, but not until the weather improves, it's waaaay too hot now!







Did I mention I hate doing this job! One of my least favorite things to do, although honestly this time it wasn't too bad, other than one bolt that stripped and I had to heli coil. Also a side note, according to Summit your not supposed to use the Moroso gasket I got with the OEM stamped steel pan, it's supposed to be for the aftermarket aluminum pans, but I tried it anyway and so far there have been no issues. I wanted to give it a shot since it seems to be the best quality gasket I could find for the 4r70w.
 

swflastang05

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Update regarding the Moroso pan gasket, there's a reason they say not to use it with the OEM steel pan after all, that is the pan will bend and result in leaks! I ended up dropping the pan again, and replacing it with an OEM gasket. My OEM stamped steel pan actually bent up around a few of the bolt holes, mostly in the corners, I had to hammer it back into shape before reinstalling. Just wanted to mention in case someone reads this, dont order the Moroso gasket unless you have an aluminum pan.. here's a couple pics where you can see the Moroso gasket oozing out the sides and even tranny fluid oozing from the top and bottom of the gasket:
If you look close you can see the red fluid around the gasket


Here you can see the Moroso gasket oozing out around the sides


I also had to send my PS axle back to Strange Engineering due to a suspected bend, here's the thread on that http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129343

Now I'm temped to install the 3.73 gears while the car is sitting... I wanted to make one more trip to the track with the 4.10's first though, hopefully I can be patient. I do have an 1/8th mile event I'm planning to compete in next month where the 4.10's will probably be better, so that should help me leave it alone for now.
 

swflastang05

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Back away from the 4:10s.

What 4.10's?


These? LOL


Oops, how did those get onto the floor? Oh well guess I'll have to replace them with 3.73's!

Couldn't help myself, thought about it for a few hours and it drove me nuts that the axles were already out, might as well do the rest! Got it all torn down, new pinion, crush sleeve, bearings installed and ran into a couple snags, first my impact won't crush the crush sleeve WTF! gotta do it by hand..that should be fun while the car is on jack stands.. moved on to swapping the ring gears and found half of the OEM bolts stripped when I removed them from the 4.10 ring gear, so I'll pick up some ARP's this week, it's always something!
 

JUSTA3V

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You sure you want to use a crush sleve? Why not go solid shim. I heard after many hard launches you can continue to crush the sleeve eventually causing issues.

I may be wrong.
 

swflastang05

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It's better to find it now then in pieces later.

Ain't that the truth!

You sure you want to use a crush sleve? Why not go solid shim. I heard after many hard launches you can continue to crush the sleeve eventually causing issues.

I may be wrong.

Yes I've heard that also, I'll look into that since I have to order new ring bolts anyway.
 

swflastang05

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Update: Strange received my axle yesterday and confirmed it is in fact bent! And they're actually going to warranty it out for me, I can't believe it, that never happens to me, I usually get screwed! Anyway it's taking some time but playing by their rules is working out, they're going to send me a brand new axle and new c-clip eliminator, bearing, seal, everything all new fully assembled, ready to install! They're having me send back my old c-clip elim, and bracket and brake bracket also to investigate what happened, see if a design change is needed, etc.

I also ended up ordering a solid pinion spacer, not only is that stronger but turns out it's also easier to install, at least IMO. I replaced the bearing races and test fit it about 4 or 5 times, finally got it right with 20 inch lbs of pre-load, ready to move into the spool next.

I also found some other stuff under neath that I did in the past, that I want to improve now, funny what you learn over time then see what you did a long time ago and now think WTF was I thinking LOL!
 

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small update, after trying just about every pinion shim and backlash combo there is I confirmed the original .023 shim works the best, and with .009- .010 backlash the pattern is as good as I could get it, new bearings and seal on their way then final assembly, should be ready just in time for the new axle and components to arrive.

Drive side:


Coast:
 

05stroker

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Good luck. This is one of those things like welding I just have to tell my self I am no good at. I did mine but it is noisy on deceleration, I assume from pinion preload being off after beating on it, or I just set it wrong. I plan to buy a new set of 3:73 gears and have my local guy I deal with do it over with new bearings and all this winter while I'm doing the 6r80 swap.
 

wht67

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Good luck. This is one of those things like welding I just have to tell my self I am no good at. I did mine but it is noisy on deceleration, I assume from pinion preload being off after beating on it, or I just set it wrong. I plan to buy a new set of 3:73 gears and have my local guy I deal with do it over with new bearings and all this winter while I'm doing the 6r80 swap.

More swap details please!!!!
 

swflastang05

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Good luck. This is one of those things like welding I just have to tell my self I am no good at. I did mine but it is noisy on deceleration, I assume from pinion preload being off after beating on it, or I just set it wrong. I plan to buy a new set of 3:73 gears and have my local guy I deal with do it over with new bearings and all this winter while I'm doing the 6r80 swap.

Well the way I look at it is mine was messed up to begin with (noisy) so what's the worst that could happen, it will be messed up after I'm done? LOL At least I won't run out of gear at the track any more..
 

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I finally received a brand new 35 spline axle with abs ring and c-clip eliminator pressed on, ready to install, and a brand new brake caliper bracket today!





I had to grind my old caliper bracket to make it fit properly, Strange told me to grind the housing end this time since it's steel and the bracket is aluminum so I did, turns out it was much easier to do it that way anyhow. If you look close at the top right and bottom right you can see where I has to massage it. Then applied a very generous amount of RTV cuz' I don't want it to leak! Also interestingly the new axle slides in perfectly no matter which way it's clocked, imagine that!







Turns out the gear pattern was off after I installed the new permanent bearings, so I had to start over, ended up with a .0255 shim and got about the same result I had before with the .0235. It ain't perfect but it's as good as this rear end will get.





I also re-ran the return fuel line while I had it up in the air, originally it ran down the PS then over the tranny tunnel back by the gas tank, after looking at it I wasn't comfortable since in the event of DS failure (even with the DS loop I have) it could easily take out that line then bye bye mustang and possibly driver too! So I pulled it out and ran it down the DS next to the supply line. Lito sent me an updated tune for the new 3.73 gears, after checking for fuel leaks, I cranked it up, and topped off the tranny fluid again too. I'm going to let it sit overnight before I drive it so the RTV has time to cure, again I don't want that sucker to leak again! I'll take it out for a drive after work tomorrow and begin the break in process for the new gears, which is to drive for 30 minutes without any spirited acceleration, then park it and let it cool, then repeat two more times, this is per the FRPP instructions.
 

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