throw out bearing rattle after cams

dimitrik8890

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i'm having the same problems with stock cams. it started after my clutch install. DRIVES ME NUTS! makes me feel like I did a poor job on the clutch install. Would love to see a fix, if not ill be changeing clutch, press plate AGAIN. with a new slave/tob
 

marcspaz

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The update is... it's a normal, expected side-effect of adding cams to an s197 with a manual trans. Some people figured out how to make it stop and others can't.

So goes the world of mod'ing
 

AlbertD

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One thing that I noticed that helped with my rattle was to increase idle rpm until it stops. Mine stopped rattling at 810rpms @ idle. It doesn't lope as nasty as before, but at least I don't have to hear that annoying rattle at every stop light.
 

rojizostang

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One thing that I noticed that helped with my rattle was to increase idle rpm until it stops. Mine stopped rattling at 810rpms @ idle. It doesn't lope as nasty as before, but at least I don't have to hear that annoying rattle at every stop light.

yep, that's what i did too
 

BlackPony

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This sounds crazy but, when I was running my OEM mufflers it rattled all of the time. Now I am running the Ford Racing KR mufflers the rattle isn't there. I noticed the the same thing with my FRPP Stingers and Corsa mufflers. Its like the when I run my OEM mufflers the engine rocks short and little movements, with the straight thru mufflers the engine rocks in longer movements which seems not to rattle the TOB as much.
 

Norm Peterson

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Not a clutch or TOB issue, unless you have some other and really odd symptom.

It is the drop gears on the input end of the tranny. And there may not be a whole lot you can do about it, easily.

You have the gear on the input shaft, which is connected through the clutch to the crankshaft, so when it rotates, it is going to rotate with the crank. Keep this in mind.

You have the gear on the countershaft that meshes with the input shaft gear. There are small clearances between the teeth, otherwise you would not be able to lubricate them and they might just sieze from thermal expansion. This gear either moves with whatever gear you've selected or just sits there if you're in neutral. But when you're in neutral, there is almost nothing keeping it from vibrating rotationally, up to the tiny bit that is allowed by the clearances.

About the crankshaft - it does not rotate at a perfectly uniform rpm, no matter what you think the tach or the seat of your pants is telling you. It is always accelerating or decelerating rotationally, because you have the individual cylinder power pulses that are not uniform from one firing to the next - or even within each single pulse.

The nonuniform crank speed is what gets the drop gears rattling in neutral with the clutch engaged. As soon as you completely disengage the clutch (pedal on floor) and the clutch disc/input shaft has spun down to zero rpm, at least the input shaft gear is no longer varying its rpm, and you get no rattle. I believe this has already been noted at least once in this thread.

Dual-mass flywheels can eliminate some rattles, but not all of them.

A light flywheel is likely to be worse than a heavy one.

A rough-idling cam is all but guaranteed to be worse than a smooth-idle cam.


I hope ↑↑↑ helps settle this matter.


Norm
 
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HellsBells

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Anyone here have a CHE K member brace with the torque limiters on the transmission?

Mine makes a similar noise to the videos except 5x louder...
 

TopoGuy

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Mines all stock and the tranny sounds like a bag of smashed assholes. I think when I do my cams, I'll have to find an excuse to do a six speed.
 

avinaj80

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sounds like a bag of smashed assholes.

Yeah, I definitely need to get out more. I have yet to experience the sound of a single smashed asshole, but a bag full? Just haven't lived enough yet I guess...
 

86GT351

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You're saying it is the throw out bearing because you hear the noise in the bellhousing and it goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed? How far do you have to push the clutch in? All the way in stops the noise or just some pressure to stabilize the bearing against the pressure plate?

The reason I ask is some car makers go to great lengths to quell the gear noise caused by the 'hammering' of the power pulses from the engine at low RPMs. Take the older 911's, they had rubber clutch centers to stop the 'gear chatter' when pulling from low RPM's. Let's just say that 'fix' caused other problems, can you say rattling clutch plates? I can! Especially after the rubber hardened and ripped...

Since the transmission is turning with the clutch engaged and engine idling, I wonder if folks are hearing the gears chattering within the transmission due to the newly lopey idle vs. the throw out bearing flopping around on the shaft...

What do you think?

Brian

TOB chatter was much more common on Pre 2005 models due to the Mechanical Cable set up. When the Rattle occured it was a clear indication the set up was out of adjustment. With the Hydraulic set up in the 05 and newer Mustangs, it can be the same issue. Have heard of this before after a cam install. Mechanically nothing being done with the cams alters the clutch set up. Only thought is that with the "rattle" of the engine from cams it causes some form of vibration with the Bearing.

As for applying pressure and it goes away, then you need to confirm if it is light pressure or does the pedal have to be all the way down. If it is light pressure then the "Pre-load" of the Throw Out Bearing against the fingers of the Pressure Plate is off. Can attempt to bleed the hydraulic system to see if noise changes. I can tell you that the longer it happens the faster it will cause a TOB issue. The Bearing over a period of "Rattle" time can/will go bad!
 

RocketcarX

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Mines all stock and the tranny sounds like a bag of smashed assholes. I think when I do my cams, I'll have to find an excuse to do a six speed.

I used to work with a guy that would say "that's about as useless as a hat full of mother fuckers".
 

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