Too much S/C for a 90k stock drivetrain?

[cavero]

I'm shopping around getting quotes on some work done, exploring both N/A and FI setups.

For the N/A it'd be the usual stuff like TB, FRPP Intake manifold, LT's, and cams (either Hot Rod or Comp Camps Stage II NSR). Limited power gains though.


For FI, I asked my local speed shop what they recommended. They're a reputable shop, and know their stuff, so I generally trust them. They reco'd a Roush Stage II kit (RP 421100), which is good for 550HP/500FT-LBS at the flywheel . They say it relocates the battery to the trunk so even w/ the intercooler it's only an extra 30 lbs up front.

What's getting me is my '06 GT has about 90k on it, and I'm not sure it can take that kind of power without breaking something. They know my setup, and told me it should be safe as long as I'm not racing the car.

My drivetrain is mostly stock, except a couple upgrades:

-- The engine's bone stock, save a CAI and tune
-- McLeod Super Street Pro clutch, good up to 550 HP (stock flywheel) (the shop and I decided to upgrade the clutch when my original went out at 75k since we knew I was going to be doing engine upgrades some day)
-- Stock TR3650 transmission
-- Steeda 1-pc Al driveshaft (good to 750 HP, 2450 ft-lbs)
-- FRPP 3.73 gears


So I guess I should ask them again what "racing" means. Doing runs down a prep'd drag strip? Probably gonna break something. Good thing I never take it to the track. Flooring it on the street? That's what I'm worried about.

Obviously going with the N/A setup isn't going to get me anywhere near the drivetrain's limits.

I'm worried mostly about my connecting rods and transmission. I've heard conflicting numbers on the TR3650 -- some say it can take 450 ft-lbs, but I think Tremec's official rating is 375 or something like that.

 

[skwerl]

The kit is fine but I don't recommend running that much boost. Run a bigger blower pulley and keep your boost down to 8-10lbs. That will get you at 475-500hp which is plenty for the stock 4.6. Also with the PD blowers every lb of boost will increase your IAT by about 5 degrees. Higher IAT means the computer pulls timing and less power, so more boost doesn't always mean more power. Run the least amount of boost you can to meet your goals.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

I don't see any difference between running that power level on a low mileage engine vs a 90k mile engine. Either engine would be at risk for a rod failure, it's just a matter of when.

 

[cavero]

I don't see any difference between running that power level on a low mileage engine vs a 90k mile engine. Either engine would be at risk for a rod failure, it's just a matter of when.

Metal fatigue was what I was thinking

 

[cavero]

The kit is fine but I don't recommend running that much boost. Run a bigger blower pulley and keep your boost down to 8-10lbs. That will get you at 475-500hp which is plenty for the stock 4.6. Also with the PD blowers every lb of boost will increase your IAT by about 5 degrees. Higher IAT means the computer pulls timing and less power, so more boost doesn't always mean more power. Run the least amount of boost you can to meet your goals.

Thanks, I'll talk to the shop to see what they were thinking boost-wise. They gave me an option for a centrifugal S/C too, but I was discounting it because of price and I thought it was probably too agressive. here's the setup they were suggesting:

Supercharger, 2005-2006 Ford Mustang
4.6 GT System (VOR 4FU218-020L)

Supercharger Pulley, 3.12" (VOR)

Motorcraft, 05+ MAF Pigtail (MOT WPT-1241)

ACT sensor (Lightning) (MOTDY754 F6SZ12A697A)

Pigtail, ACT/IAT (MOT WPT-322)

Autolight HT-0 spark plug (JK4 HT0)

Mini VIP Boost-a-Pump (VIP-5577)

MAF Flange (cxx)


Dyno tune for maximum safe power

 

[Pentalab]

Forget the Roush 550 crank hp kit..and get the Roush 475 crank hp kit...and save a pile of $$. http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/Mustang-GT-Supercharger-2005-2009.html

The 550 crank hp kit uses a 80mm blower pulley and also dual GT-500 pumps. The 475 crank hp kit uses the same TVS-2300 blower, but a bigger 105mm pulley...and uses the oem fuel pump. ( the 460 crank hp edelbrock TVS-2300 also uses a 105mm pulley).

The 550 kit runs aprx 11-12 psi boost. The 475 kit runs aprx 6-7 psi boost. If you want still more power, then add LT's and high flow catted H. The oem exhaust uses a catted H...with the silly 2.5" diam disc dead center in the middle of the H. The disc has a puny 1.25" hole dead center in the disc on the GT car... ( and only 3/8" on the 08/09 bullitt cars). Any after market LT's and catted H, like my titanium ceramic JBA's (and catted H)...will have a full 2.5" ID in the H section. The exhaust flows better, and takes a load off the crankshaft. Resulting increase in TQ + HP is blatantly obvious, it's free hp / tq. Both kits come with the twin 60mm TB from the GT-500. You could use the bigger polished Aluminum twin 65 mm or twin 67 FRPP throttle body, but with the low boost levels involved with the 475 kit, you won't see much difference if any.


They both use the same IC + HE etc.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Or get this kit, make the EXACT SAME power but at a lower intake air temp.....and save well over $1000.

http://departmentofboost.com/products/2005_2010_mustang_gt/gt450_stage_III.htm

 

[Wes06]

Or get this kit, make the EXACT SAME power but at a lower intake air temp.....and save well over $1000.

http://departmentofboost.com/products/2005_2010_mustang_gt/gt450_stage_III.htm

 

[1sloGT]

Another important thing to not overlook is where do you live? What are smog checks like? How difficult is a friendly smog to find if you'll need to. Some supercharger kits come with the almighty carb stamp which you'd need in someplace like ca.

 

[JMoraru]

I think you have to go into it thinking you could break something. I have been running my Paxton 2200 kit that dynoed at 451rwhp/400rwtq since 32k miles and I've been lucky enough to make it to 90k so far without any major issues(killed 2 clutches and 3 rear ends). I don't drive it easy on the street, but it hasn't been raced on the track except for one autocross. It sees boost and I do pulls just about any time I drive the car. It has also gotten some pretty good kills

I think it has a lot to do with a proper tune, proper maintenance and a good bit of luck. Who knows, it could last 50k miles or could blow on the dyno. I hope mine doesn't blow anytime soon though. I am tempted to throw a cam in and test my luck some more

 

[Aesthetics28]

centri kits are easier on our bottom ends..since theres no hammer down power and the power builds throughout the curve theres less of a chance of pre det.

 

[Department Of Boost]

centri kits are easier on our bottom ends..since theres no hammer down power and the power builds throughout the curve theres less of a chance of pre det.

That's splitting hairs.

 

[cavero]

Or get this kit, make the EXACT SAME power but at a lower intake air temp.....and save well over $1000.

http://departmentofboost.com/products/2005_2010_mustang_gt/gt450_stage_III.htm

That's a nice kit, definitely. How tall does it sit off the top of the engine? the underside of my CS6 hood is pretty low to start with so I don't have a lot of clearance on the underside. I've even got the engine dropped 1/2" using the Steeda motor mounts.

Any threads on the lower IAT? I'd definitely be interested in reading more, even if I go N/A for now

 

[cavero]

I think you have to go into it thinking you could break something. I have been running my Paxton 2200 kit that dynoed at 451rwhp/400rwtq since 32k miles and I've been lucky enough to make it to 90k so far without any major issues(killed 2 clutches and 3 rear ends). I don't drive it easy on the street, but it hasn't been raced on the track except for one autocross. It sees boost and I do pulls just about any time I drive the car. It has also gotten some pretty good kills

I think it has a lot to do with a proper tune, proper maintenance and a good bit of luck. Who knows, it could last 50k miles or could blow on the dyno. I hope mine doesn't blow anytime soon though. I am tempted to throw a cam in and test my luck some more

Yeah that's what worries me. On the plus side, the shop echoed what everyone's saying -- its really in the tune -- and said in 14 years they've never blown up a motor.

They looked at the Roush and Dept of Boost's kits, and said they'd prefer to do the Roush. Not because the DoB wasn't good -they said it looked like a quality piece of kit -- but they have lots of experience w/ Roush and know they can get great results with it.

Right now they're looking into a set of cams for my N/A quote. They had a Shelby GT with all the same N/A mods I'm looking at (almost -- they had a BBK TB, diff LTs, muffler deletes) that pulled 351 RWHP on the dyno. They were running Comp Camps Stage II NSR and said they were really similar to the the FRPP Hot Rods -- but they mentioned that both have a tendency to lose a little bit in the low end and finally gain above 3500. Since I'm primarily driving stop light to stop light, they're trying to track down a customer than ran a different set of cams --gained power throughout the range, especially down low.

 

[05roush0090]

If the roush blower will fit under your hood then a DOB kit will fit also.

 

[Department Of Boost]

but they have lots of experience w/ Roush and know they can install it faster which means more profit.

Fixed^^

If the roush blower will fit under your hood then a DOB kit will fit also.

This

 

[chandlern]

They looked at the Roush and Dept of Boost's kits, and said they'd prefer to do the Roush. Not because the DoB wasn't good -they said it looked like a quality piece of kit -- but they have lots of experience w/ Roush and know they can get great results with it.

I'm guessing they would be glad to sell you a Roush kit too!

 

[cavero]

Fair enough on all points!

 

[Kylar]

Roush kit is also probably close to double what the D.O.B kit costs.


I like mine

 

[Wes06]

I too, enjoy my DOB setup