Too much S/C for a 90k stock drivetrain?

[Department Of Boost]

Thanks guys!!!!

 

[mrt2you]

here is my DOB


the best part about the DOB kit is you don't have to buy a entire kit. you can a entry level kit and source the rest used.
I bought a entry kit, bought used parts from several people. traded labor for parts. I built my entire forged motor including the DOB intake for less than 5K.

everything fits under the stock hood.
I have a BMR 1/2" drop K member. I have to trim the Bullitt strut tower brace a bit by the throttle body and it will fit.

 

[Department Of Boost]

here is my DOB


the best part about the DOB kit is you don't have to buy a entire kit. you can a entry level kit and source the rest used.
I bought a entry kit, bought used parts from several people. traded labor for parts. I built my entire forged motor including the DOB intake for less than 5K.

everything fits under the stock hood.
I have a BMR 1/2" drop K member. I have to trim the Bullitt strut tower brace a bit by the throttle body and it will fit.

Where did you source the UD alternator pulley at? That's a good idea with that alternator. They don't like high RPM's.

What's the pulley combo/boost/hp?

 

[mrt2you]

I will ask my friend where he bought the ud pulley tomorrow. I think it was from metco.

I am running the smallest sc pulley you make and a 10% overdrive innovators west 8 rib dampener.
19lbs boost on a forged motor. 650 rwhp on 93 octane reformulated, 10% alcohol, pump gas. the only kind I can buy in my area.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I will ask my friend where he bought the ud pulley tomorrow.

I am running the smallest sc pulley you make and a 10% overdrive innovators west 8 rib dampener.
19lbs boost on a forged motor. 650 rwhp on 93 octane.

That's stout.

 

[NickD87]

Right now they're looking into a set of cams for my N/A quote. They had a Shelby GT with all the same N/A mods I'm looking at (almost -- they had a BBK TB, diff LTs, muffler deletes) that pulled 351 RWHP on the dyno. They were running Comp Camps Stage II NSR and said they were really similar to the the FRPP Hot Rods -- but they mentioned that both have a tendency to lose a little bit in the low end and finally gain above 3500. Since I'm primarily driving stop light to stop light, they're trying to track down a customer than ran a different set of cams --gained power throughout the range, especially down low.

I have just done the NA mods..
cars got, headers, full exhaust, pullies, ford racing intake manifold, hot rod cams, 4.10's etc. I am not impressed for the money spent, it looks tits and sounds awesome but that 350hp isn't the change you would expect and any cams that increase high rpm power will lose down low.

Im the same as you and do a lot of city driving, i'm planning on doing a DOB kit this winter/next spring, doing the work myself and tune with Lito.

In regards to the roush vs dob, the dob is a great piece of kit and can end up a significantly better package depending on how you build it but if you are planning on sticking with a shop that does a lot of cookie cutter kits and tunes them it may cost you less in the long run to go with what they recommend. My friend just did a Dob kit and the local shop spent hours longer on both install and tuning resulting in a huge labor bill

 

[Department Of Boost]

I have just done the NA mods..
cars got, headers, full exhaust, pullies, ford racing intake manifold, hot rod cams, 4.10's etc. I am not impressed for the money spent, it looks tits and sounds awesome but that 350hp isn't the change you would expect and any cams that increase high rpm power will lose down low.

Im the same as you and do a lot of city driving, i'm planning on doing a DOB kit this winter/next spring, doing the work myself and tune with Lito.

In regards to the roush vs dob, the dob is a great piece of kit and can end up a significantly better package depending on how you build it but if you are planning on sticking with a shop that does a lot of cookie cutter kits and tunes them it may cost you less in the long run to go with what they recommend. My friend just did a Dob kit and the local shop spent hours longer on both install and tuning resulting in a huge labor bill

The shop lied to your friend. There is absolutely nothing that makes the GT450 harder to tune than any other kit. In fact it can be argued that it's easy to tune because everything involving the ECU/sensors/injectors/etc is all OEM.

The GT450 will take longer to install then some other kits (less than others) the first time time you/they do it. But that is pretty much true for all kits. Once you have done one a few times you can rip through the install.

Everyone should know this:

A/the shop is not trying to save you any money. They are there to make money (which is fine). The way to make money for the shop is to get jobs done faster than the time they charged for (beating book). If they finish faster they don't give you a discount on the time. They also make money selling you something, specifically selling you something with the biggest margin. They are not your friend and they are not your purchasing advocate. They are a business trying to maximize profit. They will push you into the blower kit that is the easiest to install for them and the one that offers them the most profit margin. There is nothing wrong with this per se. But don't think for a second their motivations revolve around what it ultimately best for you.

 

[Mustang Mark]

I just put a vortech on a 135k mile engine. It has held together so far.

 

[mrt2you]

Where did you source the UD alternator pulley at? That's a good idea with that alternator. They don't like high RPM's.

What's the pulley combo/boost/hp?

I talked with my friend today about the UD pulley.
he is 80% sure it was from metco. if it wasn't from them then it was from billet pro shop.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I talked with my friend today about the UD pulley.
he is 80% sure it was from metco. if it wasn't from them then it was from billet pro shop.

THX

 

[mrt2you]

THX

just for reference.
with the under drive pulley on the alternator the check engine light flashed at idle because the voltage was a tiny bit low, like .2 volts. I think it was like 13.1 volts at idle and the computer didn't like that.
** note I am not exactly sure what the voltage was exactly, I did the DOB install 2 years ago so my memory isn't perfect on exact facts.***
my friend turned the voltage warning off in the tune.
I run a 2 fan afco triple pass heat exchanger and a bosh pump. along with twin GT500 fuel pumps with a boost a pump. I have never had a low battery even after idling in bumper to bumper traffic for over 1 hour at the woodward cruse.

 

[cavero]

I have just done the NA mods..
cars got, headers, full exhaust, pullies, ford racing intake manifold, hot rod cams, 4.10's etc. I am not impressed for the money spent, it looks tits and sounds awesome but that 350hp isn't the change you would expect and any cams that increase high rpm power will lose down low.

Im the same as you and do a lot of city driving, i'm planning on doing a DOB kit this winter/next spring, doing the work myself and tune with Lito.

Really? I'd be going from 289 RWHP to 350 --- you'd think the 60 RWHP bump would be pretty significant (hell, the 35 from the stock 255 was). Then again, torque is what turns the wheels and the car they were talking about only saw 313 FT-LBS at the wheels, which would only be a 30 ft-lb jump from the ~285 I'm making now.

 

[NickD87]

Really? I'd be going from 289 RWHP to 350 --- you'd think the 60 RWHP bump would be pretty significant (hell, the 35 from the stock 255 was). Then again, torque is what turns the wheels and the car they were talking about only saw 313 FT-LBS at the wheels, which would only be a 30 ft-lb jump from the ~285 I'm making now.

I made 310 before and don't know final numbers now but like I said its not the same, and to make anywhere near 350 you need headers etc
It depends what you want out of the car and I've realized its torque...

 

[darrens07gt]

Really? I'd be going from 289 RWHP to 350 --- you'd think the 60 RWHP bump would be pretty significant (hell, the 35 from the stock 255 was). Then again, torque is what turns the wheels and the car they were talking about only saw 313 FT-LBS at the wheels, which would only be a 30 ft-lb jump from the ~285 I'm making now.

I know I can definately feel a difference. Before the headers, cams & tune I would chirp the 1-2 shift and the car felt somewhat quick. Now I screeeech the 1-2 shift and the car feels much faster not to mention sounding bad ass!

I considered boost before I bought the NA mods but when I factored in not only the cost of the supercharger but also upgrading the transmission, clutch, rods and possibly even the rearend, I decided it was just more then I would want to invest.

I'm happy with the NA setup. If I get bored enough I can always spray a small shot of n20 (75-100). But more likely I'll just enjoy what I have for what it is until a 5.0 comes along.

 

[onehotpny]

Thanks guys!!!!

What makes a DOB kit different than a regular Whipple kit? just wondering? I'll be doing either a bottom end forged this winter on my engine or going to purchase the Ford racing M-6009-B53 engine and sell the Vortech with Chrage cool and purchase a DOB or Whipple or maybe a kenne Bell.any info would be appreciated.

 

[Department Of Boost]

What makes a DOB kit different than a regular Whipple kit? just wondering? I'll be doing either a bottom end forged this winter on my engine or going to purchase the Ford racing M-6009-B53 engine and sell the Vortech with Chrage cool and purchase a DOB or Whipple or maybe a kenne Bell.any info would be appreciated.

The goal determines the blower/manifold that should be used. What is your exact goal?

 

[cavero]

I know I can definately feel a difference. Before the headers, cams & tune I would chirp the 1-2 shift and the car felt somewhat quick. Now I screeeech the 1-2 shift and the car feels much faster not to mention sounding bad ass!

I considered boost before I bought the NA mods but when I factored in not only the cost of the supercharger but also upgrading the transmission, clutch, rods and possibly even the rearend, I decided it was just more then I would want to invest.

I'm happy with the NA setup. If I get bored enough I can always spray a small shot of n20 (75-100). But more likely I'll just enjoy what I have for what it is until a 5.0 comes along.

That's kind of where I am on this right now. Ideally I'd like to keep up with the 5.0's though, and I'm not sure I'm going to be able to on N/A