Track Oiling Data (AiM Race Data Analysis)

[ArizonaGT]

Guys:

This was the first weekend I've been able to use my AiM system while racing competitively out here in AZ. Here is a data trace of my fastest lap of the weekend showing a number of channels being monitored via CANBUS and Oil sensors.

I am running the stock BOSS302 oil pan, with the FRPP oil-to-air cooler in-series with the factory oil-to-water cooler, 302S grille, Tiger hood, 2013 SVT fan assembly, and no AC condenser. 10 quarts of 5w50 Castrol Syntec. Ambient temperature in the low 70* range; altitude 1200ft or so above sea level.

This is on a relatively high-speed track with average speeds around 80mph and max speed above 140mph. Here is the map of the track itself, we run CCW as indicated by the arrow on the straight. Total length around 1.6 miles:

And here is the data trace combined with the corner numbers:

P_Pedal is the throttle position and a_Master_Cyl_Press is the brake pressure at the master cylinder.

I know this is a bit of information overload but my key takeaway was that oil pressure gets lowest on-track during hard braking events and/or braking events combined with steering input (trail braking). This makes sense since the sump is low in the rear of the pan. I was surprised to see that the long sweeping corners didn't really affect the oil pressure.

Another thing to note is the Oil Temperature, staying within 6*F the entire lap with the cooler setup I'm running. This is oil temp POST cooler, due to the physical limitations on which side of the sandwich plate I could stick the sensors on.
Also you can see the ECT chart as well, maxing out around 214 in clean air.

I'm interested to see how these numbers climb when the weather gets hot again!

Anyways just some food for thought / reference points for track rats wondering about this stuff.

So long...

 

[ddd4114]

Thanks a lot for sharing. This is something I would like to (and should) record but never have taken the time to set it up. I record oil temperature, but for obvious reasons, pressure is a lot more important.

I'm jealous that you're able to keep your temperatures at a reasonable level. I have an open grille and a water/oil cooler, and by my last lap, I still see ~225 deg coolant and ~280 deg oil temperatures. Reliability aside, it's probably costing me 0.5 seconds per lap from the spark retard. I bet your hood helps a lot with that.

Would you mind posting info about your brake pressure transducer and the plumbing modifications needed to install it? I've been considering something like that too. Also, which AiM datalogger package are you using? They're all really nice, but you get what you pay for.

 

[ArizonaGT]

All the vehicle data is pulled from the factory CANBUS system with the exception of the GPS figures (from AiM GPS system) and the Oil Pressure and Oil Temp info (from sensors mounted in sandwich plate).

 

[psfracer]

Great data. Impressed with the oil temp and how stable it is, even if its post cooler.

I to can confirm my lowest oil pressure is always after i have let off and starting braking after a pass. I am actually researching a way to address this if possible without going with a crazy expensive external oil pump setup.

 

[Sky Render]

Interesting. So the BOSS302 oil pan is enough to prevent oil starvation during cornering, and the actual issue is during hard braking? Any ideas how we can remedy this?

 

[Rehagen Racing]

you REALLY need the boss race pan...

At that level it's a must for engine longevity.

 

[ArizonaGT]

Here is the video from that race, as well. At least the first half of the race. Started 5th overall out of 13, second in class, finished same standings after swapping the class lead back-and-forth with that red Speed Truck.

I am in the middle of the power-to-weight range for this class (not advantageous) but that's where I land when I run the take-off P-Zero slicks. For reference, the car was supposed to be classed in NASA ST3 but with slicks it's an ST2 car with about a 0.1x margin.

 

[Sky Render]

you REALLY need the boss race pan...

At that level it's a must for engine longevity.

Does the BOSS race pan reduce the oil pressure loss on heavy braking? What is its capacity, and can it still be used on a street-driven car?

 

[2013MustangGT]

you REALLY need the boss race pan...

At that level it's a must for engine longevity.

This one, M6675-M50BR? And will it fit a GT Mustang? I know that M6675-M50 will fit the 5.0.

 

[Rehagen Racing]

Yes it can be used on the GT and any 5.0L street car (Mustang).

The pan makes the car a 12qt system.

This will eliminate pressure loss under braking with both the added capacity and the internal baffles that keep the oil pick-up submerged.

M-6675-M50BR

We put these on all our track cars. We have never lost a 5.0L engine due to an oil issue.

 

[2013MustangGT]

^Thank you

 

[Roadracer350]

I remember those data logging charts! Coming in, getting off the bike having a drink and Wayne conning up yelling at me because I was .23 of a sec from the time I let off the brake to getting back on the throttle!! Good times!!

 

[Roadracer350]

Yes it can be used on the GT and any 5.0L street car (Mustang).

The pan makes the car a 12qt system.

This will eliminate pressure loss under braking with both the added capacity and the internal baffles that keep the oil pick-up submerged.

M-6675-M50BR

We put these on all our track cars. We have never lost a 5.0L engine due to an oil issue.

What about the 05-10 GT? I never did hear anything about the oiling system on the FR500S/C doing this.

 

[Rehagen Racing]

We have the last of the Ford Racing 4.6L pans. It's a very good idea to install them on the 4.6L as well. These came stock on the FR500C. They will work with any of the 4.6L 3V Mustang.

M-6675-R50

 

[sheizasosay]

Would .95G's on braking be considered in the "you REALLY need it at that level" category?

 

[Rehagen Racing]

The BOSS upgraded pan is a very good for the performance driver and casual track day user.
Anyone truly pushing their car is going to benefit from the race pan.
The stock pan is pretty inadequate when it comes to really pushing the limits of your Mustang.

 

[ddd4114]

Does anybody know how tolerant the stock oil pan is to overfilling a little for track driving? Would an extra 0.5-1.0 qt be enough to reduce the pressure loss, or would aeration quickly become a concern? An upgraded oil pan is clearly a better solution, but until that point, I'm wondering how much you could push the OEM system without risking too much accelerated wear.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I run a stock pan, 1/2 qt over-full, and have had (knocking wood) no issues at all, running with Amsoil 10w40. HPDE, Time Trial, sprint races, and a bunch of Endurance races, no issues with braking or cornering-induced pressure sag. I had an Accusump on it for a while, but that failed over the winter season a few years ago, so I capped the "T" fitting, and haven't missed it. I DO have an analog (electric) gauge that has an alarm (audible plus flashing red) if the pressure drops below 20psi, and so far, no indications that there are sags. For the record, I have NOT datalogged it, though.

While a pan like that is certainly something that I would consider, I just question the sanity of investing anything into the 3V motor at this point. I think when mine finally goes, I would be more likely to swap in a Coyote than try to build up a 4.6-3V.

 

[ddd4114]

Yeah, I thought about the Accusump route too, but after you factor in the cost of the accumulator, valve assembly, AN lines, and everything else, a good oil pan seems like a better bang for your buck since you're preventing the problem instead of band-aid fixing it. It might still be a better option depending on pan availability and your budget. They're also somewhat common, so finding parts used is possible if you dig around.

Honestly, 20 psi is pretty low for high-speed operation. I would be scared to see anything lower than 40 psi near redline. Do you get your oil analyzed by Blackstone, etc.?

 

[ArizonaGT]

Does anybody know how tolerant the stock oil pan is to overfilling a little for track driving? Would an extra 0.5-1.0 qt be enough to reduce the pressure loss, or would aeration quickly become a concern? An upgraded oil pan is clearly a better solution, but until that point, I'm wondering how much you could push the OEM system without risking too much accelerated wear.

FWIW the factory BOSS pan calls for 8.5 and I fill with an even 10 to account for the external oil-to-air cooler.