Upgrade supercharger or go turbo

hockeygod

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Per Kelly at BMR you don’t need the 3rd point, I can confirm my car has been fine without it. Just make sure you torque the two mounting bolts to spec and you’re good. It’s like 89 ft-lbs if I remember correctly.

I just made a thread that has part numbers for the wire harness and pictures of the wiring.
Damn you are awesome. Do you know if it matters what size wheels the rack came off of?
 

eighty6gt

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what about me?

Just kidding

RE: wheels - there are different limiter spacers. They are integrated with the tie rod ends on later cars. I took the spacers off the ends and used my OEM spacers on my car. You can do some measurements.

I read in one place the 3rd mount was for NVH. I could see it picking up the moment from the motor/ballscrew/etc... bouncing up and down ahead of the rack. It would be fairly easy to integrate, at some time, into an aftermarket K.

I can't remember what the old hydraulic rack felt like as I had the car down for nearly two years. The new electric rack is very light at a stop, and the car handles great at speed.
 
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hockeygod

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what about me?

Just kidding

RE: wheels - there are different limiter spacers. They are integrated with the tie rod ends on later cars. I took the spacers off the ends and used my OEM spacers on my car. You can do some measurements.

I read in one place the 3rd mount was for NVH. I could see it picking up the moment from the motor/ballscrew/etc... bouncing up and down ahead of the rack. It would be fairly easy to integrate, at some time, into an aftermarket K.

I can't remember what the old hydraulic rack felt like as I had the car down for nearly two years. The new electric rack is very light at a stop, and the car handles great at speed.
Thanks.

I ordered a rack and the harness needed. Now on to the next issue. I went to start doing my brakes and wheels this afternoon only to find that the tuner shop lost my spline lock wheel key. Super! Off to AutoZone to see what I can find. Fml why can't people make it easy for me.
 

RocketcarX

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what about me?

Just kidding

RE: wheels - there are different limiter spacers. They are integrated with the tie rod ends on later cars. I took the spacers off the ends and used my OEM spacers on my car. You can do some measurements.

I read in one place the 3rd mount was for NVH. I could see it picking up the moment from the motor/ballscrew/etc... bouncing up and down ahead of the rack. It would be fairly easy to integrate, at some time, into an aftermarket K.

I can't remember what the old hydraulic rack felt like as I had the car down for nearly two years. The new electric rack is very light at a stop, and the car handles great at speed.
I didn’t know these things about the limiters, I just know to avoid the 11-12 racks and stick to the 13-14 or FRPP racks.
They shipped my used 14 rack with no limiter so I didn’t realize they use them. I will say if I turn full left my wheel runs into the control arm with a stock 17x8 wheel and a 235 tire, so I plan to add limiters. Mine is a drag oriented set up so I don’t have and wide front wheel experience with this set up.
I agree, it’s super easy to turn at low speed and awesome on the highway and back roads.
 

Marble

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Thanks.

I ordered a rack and the harness needed. Now on to the next issue. I went to start doing my brakes and wheels this afternoon only to find that the tuner shop lost my spline lock wheel key. Super! Off to AutoZone to see what I can find. Fml why can't people make it easy for me.
So the last time this happened to me I used a hammer and a 12 point socket to bang over the lock key. Ruined the key and I put another regular lug on.
 

hockeygod

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So the last time this happened to me I used a hammer and a 12 point socket to bang over the lock key. Ruined the key and I put another regular lug on.
The only problem is every single lug is an 8 spline tpi brand lug nut. Tpi can get me a replacement key in ......3 weeks. Autozones lug removal tool doesnt grab the lug either. I am so pissed right now. Going to try hammering on a 17mm 12pt socket tommorow and see how many lugs I can get off before the socket is destroyed.
 

hockeygod

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Ok so now I need some help. My luck is absolutley terrible. Brought my car to a tire wheel shop. They I stalled new tires and wheels along with doing the alignment. Then they rrset the tpms. After that went to start the car and it just cranks. It's getting spark, .The injectors are pulsing but the fuel pumps are not priming or sending fuel to the motor. I checked all fuses, did not check engine relays yet. The kenne bell boost a pump relays are receiving power but not outputting that power to the pumps. Is it possible the fuel pump driver motor went bad.
 

eighty6gt

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Backprobe outputs on fpdm with the ignition on. The 12v + should be constant hot. See the wiring diagram on the FSM:
iihs.net/fsm/?dir=0

The ground is square wave switched by the fpdm, this is how you poot around with the pumps at 3v half the time. To test you can just ohm out between chassis and the ground at the FPDM plug. Will go to zero ish ohms at key on (priming,) and then infinite. You could also use a node light hooked to 12+. With the ignition on it will briefly close (light on,) and then be open again. If the ground is not present or switched, you need to figure out why. Lito has said he has never seen a bad fuel pump driver module.

You are not seeing 17V coming out of the BAP(s) with the key on? You are not seeing 12V+ going into the BAP(s)? If these are unpowered, then it may be the relay in the fuse block under the hood or the supply.
 

Marble

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I doubt something happened with your fuel system. The way to not dump fuel in during start up is to start it with the pedal to the floor, which shuts off or stops the fuel from going into the cylinder.

My car would not start one time, just like you described. Could smell fuel etc..I let it sit overnight and started it the next day how I described and all was good.
 

Marble

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"It's getting spark, .The injectors are pulsing but the fuel pumps are not priming or sending fuel to the motor"

Check fuel pump relay reset under driver side footwell?
 

hockeygod

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"It's getting spark, .The injectors are pulsing but the fuel pumps are not priming or sending fuel to the motor"

Check fuel pump relay reset under driver side footwell?
I checked the fuel pump cutoff in the driver's footwell and it was good. Checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and all good. Tested the relays going to both boost a pumps and both grounds and always hot wire are good but the trigger wire is not getting anything from the for. Going to test the fuel pump harness relay next.
 

hockeygod

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I checked the fuel pump cutoff in the driver's footwell and it was good. Checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and all good. Tested the relays going to both boost a pumps and both grounds and always hot wire are good but the trigger wire is not getting anything from the for. Going to test the fuel pump harness relay next.

On a side note I went to install my brembos and all was good until I went to install the stainless brake lines and realized the kit was missing the banjo bolts. Tommorow I will have to call and get them.
 

Pentalab

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I checked the fuel pump cutoff in the driver's footwell and it was good. Checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and all good. Tested the relays going to both boost a pumps and both grounds and always hot wire are good but the trigger wire is not getting anything from the for. Going to test the fuel pump harness relay next.

Are you seeing 17 vdc coming out of the dual BAP ?
 

Pentalab

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Not getting anything out of the BAP. It is not receiving power from the relays which are switched on by fpdm I believe.

You might want to check the dual BAP function.. by temp feeding the input of the BAP with 12-14 vdc, right at BAP itself.....then see if the BAP is outputting 17 vdc. I believe you would not require a high current 12-14 vdc supply to do this. 12-14 vdc from a small charger would suffice..or temp tap 12-14 vdc. Then at least you have totally eliminated the BAP from the picture. The BAP of course is just a DC-DC converter, with Un regulated 12-14 vdc on it's input..and a constant 17 vdc on it's output.
 

hockeygod

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You might want to check the dual BAP function.. by temp feeding the input of the BAP with 12-14 vdc, right at BAP itself.....then see if the BAP is outputting 17 vdc. I believe you would not require a high current 12-14 vdc supply to do this. 12-14 vdc from a small charger would suffice..or temp tap 12-14 vdc. Then at least you have totally eliminated the BAP from the picture. The BAP of course is just a DC-DC converter, with Un regulated 12-14 vdc on it's input..and a constant 17 vdc on it's output.
I will try this tonight as well. I already jumped 12v to the BAP input and heard it hum to life I did not measure the voltage output though so I will do that tonight. Also I still did not hear the pumps prime when I did that. Not sure if I should have at that point though.
 

eighty6gt

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Not getting anything out of the BAP. It is not receiving power from the relays which are switched on by fpdm I believe.

no they are not. They are switched by ignition. FPDM only switches ground supply to the pump.

Did you read and understand my post?

Pump priming is a direct command from the ECM to the FPDM - cycles ground via the control wire and listens via monitoring wire.
 

hockeygod

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no they are not. They are switched by ignition. FPDM only switches ground supply to the pump.

Did you read and understand my post?

Pump priming is a direct command from the ECM to the FPDM - cycles ground via the control wire and listens via monitoring wire.

I read it and the only part I did not fully understand was:
"To test you can just ohm out between chassis and the ground at the FPDM plug"
 

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