Valve Spring Replacement Procedure

[tmcolegr]

Part number: otc 7928 - ftw!

Replaced by 303-567

 

[tmcolegr]

While ordering a revised tuning file for the Comp Cams I will be installing, I had an interesting conversation with Jim III @ JDM about 3V valve spring replacement tools. He spoke with JDM's Techs and they use the 3V specific tool for R&I of the cam followers but the 2V specific tool for spring replacement.

I still have the 3V tool on order but today I also placed an order for the 2V tool. By comparison the 2V tool is about $60 less than the 3V tool.

 

[bigwilly43729]

Not to hijack, but can you replace this stuff with the heads off the block? It seems like it would be a lot less trouble.

 

[saleen07gt]

Not to hijack, but can you replace this stuff with the heads off the block? It seems like it would be a lot less trouble.

Sure, machine shops do it all the time but the extra labor of pulling the intake and exh manifolds/ headers, new head gaskets, head bolts, oil change. Its just not cost effective.

 

[tmcolegr]

Finally received all my OTC tooling (timing chain wedge 2V & 3V spring compressors) - just waiting on my revised tune.

Jim III - hint, hint,........

Already have the Comp cams, springs, retainers & new phaser bolts.

 

[bigwilly43729]

PICS, PICS!! Take lots of them when you do it.

 

[bullitt5244]

Make sure you block off the oil drain back holes !!!!!

 

[94tbird]

the 3v tool works fine

 

[bullitt5244]

I used the 3v tool and it worked good. It's a pita anyways. Bout the time you finish your first side you will be used to using it.

 

[KcMstang]

I used the 3v tool and it worked good. It's a pita anyways. Bout the time you finish your first side you will be used to using it.

Did you compress the spring first, install the locks, then decompress the spring?

or

Did you have the spring, retainers, and retainer keys in place and then compress the spring?

 

[Hitman]

we made a tool. We cut the side out of a socket so that you can get the keepers in when you compress the spring. It was a gian tpain in the ass. I got pissed and left the shop three or four times during this process. But I accomplished it while having Tyree yell at me and tell me how stupid I was the whole time. It was like trying to accomplish a task with a drill sargent yelling at you. LMAO!

 

[SirKnightTG]

Would this work http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-90518/?image=large for compressing the spring enough to get the roller followers off when swapping cams?

I really do not want to buy the 3v one. $200+ is just dumb.

 

[lenko]

Did you compress the spring first, install the locks, then decompress the spring?

or

Did you have the spring, retainers, and retainer keys in place and then compress the spring?

You compress the springs, take off the valve keepers, take off the tool. Remove and replace the springs and retainers, then compress the new springs and install the valve keepers, then release and remove the tool.

 

[lenko]

Were you the unlucky bastard to drop the keepers down the oil return hole?

I have never changed the valve springs on a 4.6L 3V but I hear it ranks right up there with being castrated with a rusty knife while being ass raped by a Silverback gorilla - so I'm told, never having personally experienced either

Additional questions:

• Did you change the valve springs before or after installing the new cams? Here's why I ask - the new cams have more lift than the stock cams. I don't want to install the new cams and then find out I can't rotate the engine because of coil bind.
• When installing the springs did you have the piston at TDC or BDC. BDC seems to be a better plan so as to prevent engine rotation while the cylinder is pressurized but Ford's recommendation is TDC.
• I assume you pulled all the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier and replaced the valve springs in the firing order so you only had to rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions?

Additional info: I really don't need the VSR cams now - NSRs would be fine. However, I eventually plan on upgrading to a forged rotating assembly and don't want to have to buy another set of cams then. So I'll take my castration and ass raping now.

Change valve springs with old cams still on. Compress springs, Remove followers and set them out in order to replace in original positions and then compress and change springs. Use magnet on keepers and put in pocket or some where safe until new spring is on and keepers are put back on. Plug all oil channels in head in case you drop keeper.

You do the TDC thing when you remove the followers-no need for air then.

When you do springs with pressure then your engine will likely turn from the pressure (mine did in every case), but continue to compress and change springs. Remove only the spark plug on the cylinder springs you are working on. I only dropped one keeper onto the frame somewhere and luckily a little fishing with the magnet picked it up right away. Springs are a bitch, but doable.
The worst was my first exhaust on No.1 and the last on No.8. You get better as you go along.