What have you done to your mustang today?

[JC SSP]

Don’t know Coyote takes 50W oil.

 

[Gabe]

How stable is it, sitting up on 4x of those stands and how do you manage to get it up like that without rocking it off the far side?

It's solid. I have the Steeda jacking rails under it, the jack stands are basically about 2" inward from either end. I jack up the first side, stick the jacks under it, I jack up the second side and if I want to go higher, I go higher on the second side, then go back to the first side and level it off. I've had the car almost as high as the stands would go, made it easy when I was doing driveshaft swaps.

 

[Forty61]

How stable is it, sitting up on 4x of those stands and how do you manage to get it up like that without rocking it off the far side?

I do mine one front corner, opposite front corner and then jack under the rear diff to get the rear stands. Coming down is the reverse. It's a hassle.

It's solid. I have the Steeda jacking rails under it, the jack stands are basically about 2" inward from either end. I jack up the first side, stick the jacks under it, I jack up the second side and if I want to go higher, I go higher on the second side, then go back to the first side and level it off. I've had the car almost as high as the stands would go, made it easy when I was doing driveshaft swaps.

That sounds so nice.. I need to invest in the rails, I put off a lot of jobs because it's a hassle getting it up on stands without them.

 

[JC SSP]

I had those Steeda rails on my old 06 GT convertible and they worked perfectly for jacking, support the car and even improved structural rigidity.

I currently have ladder style welded subframe connectors on my 05 GT and also use them to jack up and support the car.

 

[GlassTop09]

Provided below are 2 copies of the IM Readiness reports from my car........... 1 dated 3-22-25 (last 1 using the NTK 22060 4-wire pre-cat NB O2 sensors) & 1 dated 3-30-25 (pulled after changeout to the Marsflex BOSCH 15717 Spec 4-wire pre-cat NB O2 Sensors w\ Nerst Cell Sampling Pump on 3-24-25 & after putting 7 drive cycles on them) w\ no changes made to the tune calibration.

These results are proof of the reasoning why I bought & installed them........

Proves the concept of what a more accurate pair of pre-cat NB O2 sensors can provide..........if you can only envision this from a POV of emissions alone, then you entirely are missing the point that these results are pointing to the engine's efficiency improvements in converting fuel & air into heat\expansion energy which can\will also increase engine HP\TQ output.......not IF.

Only need to harness it........

The only reason others are not getting this is due to a LOT of tuners not using some type\method of exhaust analysis to check exhaust while tuning........such as a 5-gas exhaust analyzer for real time usage.........or in my case, using at a minimum, the very same CARB-cert cats (thus legally tested\certified) w\ the ECU's '09 MY emissions controls fully active & unaltered in tune calibration along w\ both rear NB O2 sensors (NTK 22500 post-cat) active in tune & fully inserted into cats.......thus a level of accuracy w\ the results rechecked post each tune reflash to monitor engine operating efficiency as well as cat efficiency over time.

Cats can only treat the expelled leftover HC, CO & any NOx laden exhaust created from incomplete, inefficient combustion that occurs within the combustion chambers\cylinders........any incomplete combustion exhaust that is treated (meaning oxidized, reduced or burned post combustion if preferred) inside of a cat (or just blown away into the atmosphere running FFE) is lost energy thus lost HP\TQ potential........pure, plain & simple. The Catalyst #1 & #2 CE Ratio numbers are a measurement of engine combustion efficiency as well- measured thru a cat's ability to clean the exhaust. Less HC, CO & NOx in exhaust to start with.......the less work a cat needs to do thus is more efficient......thus the less amount of O2 the ECU needs to put in post exhaust to feed the cat.......thus more O2 is available to be mixed w\ fuel to make more heat\expansion energy........thus a more efficient thus powerful engine.

Rinse, repeat................

The Catalyst #1 & #2 CE Ratio results differences show this..........was just as surprising to me to see these results get even better over time of operation just from using a pair of 4-wire pre-cat NB O2 sensors that can continuously sample exhaust instead of passively doing the same..........

All this is being done thru the exact same set of cats (MagnaFlow #5461336 CARB-cert EO# D-193-140 TWC aftermarket OEM grade cats) that have been in service since Oct 2021........provided below is an IM Readiness report dated 10-5-2021 for context.

Just think............this design of Ford-compatible 4-wire NB O2 sensor has been out in the wild since the late 90's\early 2000's.........just not widely known\available in the same US MY production models (mostly in UK\Europe & Australia) ...........

Am blessed to be in a position to have learned\made the necessary front NB O2 sensor heater DC setting changes\heater eng run time scaling changes in my tune calibration to take full advantage of them............

Posted for those so interested...................


Not that hard to do\get\obtain...........just have to go after it & be willing to do what it takes to get there, learn from good sources, be willing to unlearn\discard bad\wrong info cause it's out here & ignore all the negative noise you'll most certainly hear\run into along the way......only you know your true capabilities......no one else.

Just never stop learning once you do decide to jump in, no matter how much knowledge or skill you gain.................complacency always kills the cat\stunts growth.

My 2 cents worth of pep talk...........

Yes, it's Walther Nernst's pioneering work called the Nernst effects that is the fundamental scientific basis behind this little electronic gadget's operations inside of these Marsflex NB O2 sensors as well as in all WB O2 sensors.

Posted for those so interested................

Since seeing these IM Readiness result improvements from installation of these Marsflex BOSCH 15717 Spec 4-Wire NB O2 Sensors, I recently ran a 3rd fuel mileage test to see if fuel mileage was affected (have put 5 more drive cycles on this setup since the 3-30-25 Forscan IM Readiness report results).........fuel mileage test results provided below (also provided the other 2 tests ran prior for context):

Picked up a .5 MPG gain vs the 2nd test results (ran same route as run on the prior 2 tests........just didn't take it out as far on this test run) thus she broke 27 MPG........thru 3.91 gears on 26.1" dia tires running approx 70-75 MPH avg (used cruise control on hiway portion as done w\ the prior tests) w\ HVAC on (CC heater on the 2 prior tests, CC AC on this test) w\ the Marsflex 4-wire NB O2 sensors being the only difference...........tune calibration is exactly the same as run in the 2nd test.

These Marsflex 4-wire NB O2 Sensors w\ Nerst Cell Sampling Pump are proving to be a very solid & highly accurate product indeed...............bought a 2nd set to have on hand for spares.

I did some of these brackets years ago when I lowered my car, and although I have yet to do it, I think at some point you will probably want to weld them on. I found out when I replaced my LCA's that those brackets are able to move around, I don't know how much it affects anything though if you aren't racing.

Maybe so............but according to MM welding these isn't recommended or needed (provided MM's description off web site below)..........car isn't intended to be competitively raced but is intended to be driven hard into winding twisties on occasion but retain current 13-14 GT500\08-09 Bullitt-stockish ride compliance thus I specifically chose these (a lot of road course tech easily transfers across & is useful in a daily driver that will see some spirited driving on occasion........) due to MM designed for OEM 05-14 S197 rear suspension geometry & OEM or aftermarket LCA use.........which no one else does (not even Ford Performance......) & is what I'm running........except none of my parts are OEM '09 MY........all are OEM later MY S197 SVT-derived GT500 parts except the UCA.....this is a Roush 3rd Link (Roush modified 07-09 OEM GT\GT500 part that retains the OEM 07-09 S197 UCA geometry).

As tight as these things interlock\mount onto the 8.8" existing LCA brackets w\ my parts usage.........I don't foresee an issue w\ loosening up but we'll find out over time.

 

[07 Boss]

Posted for those so interested................

Haha, calculating my mileage gets me depressed so I never check it anymore. Now I just drive and fill the tank when needed.

 

[Forty61]

Hit 80k miles, with the miles I am commuting back and forth to work I'll be putting some more miles on the Mustang to offset racking them all up on the new Subaru.

For a 17 year old Mustang it still works and feels decent to drive but it's due for a little loving.

 

[Gabe]

This weekend it was the wife's Shelby's turn for some attention.
Fresh Amsoil 5W50, new Motorcraft filter, a new sensor for the AEM oil pressure gauge, flushed the brake fluid, and gave it a general check over.
Found what seems to be grease slinging from the back of the DS, a couple/few inches ahead of the pinion seal. It doesn't smell like diff fluid. Was told it could be grease from inside the rear CV joint.
The bottom of the diff is wet, but the pinion seal area looks dry. Pulled the fill plug and fluid level is good.
Thinking I need to find a good driveline shop to have the driveshaft repaired or maybe look for a low-mileage stock '08 GT500 driveshaft. A new Ford Performance 1-piece is not in the budget right now.

 

[GriffX]

You can get a CV joint on ebay for 80$

 

[Ballistic17]

Put in a new radio.

 

[Badd GT]

This weekend it was the wife's Shelby's turn for some attention.
Fresh Amsoil 5W50, new Motorcraft filter, a new sensor for the AEM oil pressure gauge, flushed the brake fluid, and gave it a general check over.
Found what seems to be grease slinging from the back of the DS, a couple/few inches ahead of the pinion seal. It doesn't smell like diff fluid. Was told it could be grease from inside the rear CV joint.
The bottom of the diff is wet, but the pinion seal area looks dry. Pulled the fill plug and fluid level is good.
Thinking I need to find a good driveline shop to have the driveshaft repaired or maybe look for a low-mileage stock '08 GT500 driveshaft. A new Ford Performance 1-piece is not in the budget right now.

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East coast gear in Louisburg….talk to Chase

 

[WJBertrand]

I installed a Dynavin 9 and back up camera

 

[crjackson]

Replaced the 2-Piece driveshaft with the FRPP (Spicer) 1-Piece aluminum.

 

[Gabe]

Replaced the factory driveshaft which had developed a leak in the rear CV boot with another factory driveshaft that came off a car that was bought and immediately sent off to Shelby American for the Super Snake package to be installed. The car had 8.3 miles on it when it was sent off, according to the owner. Part of the package was apparently a 1-piece Dynatech driveshaft.

Also fixed a diff fluid leak which had developed over time, seeping through the pinion nut. Took the nut off, cleaned it, put RTV sealant on the back side and put it back on with some Loctite on it. This was as recommended to me from a good friend of mine who works on these cars all the time and has seen this a bunch of times.

While I was under there, I also installed a new axle vent and topped off the diff fluid.
Planning on a finned aluminum cover soon along with fresh fluid of course.

 

[IndyMurph]

FatMated the doors
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swapped out to Shelby branded Kicker speakers and changed out the teflon inner glass sweeps to rubber/felt

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Glued the loose/droopy inserts and added a chrome trim insert.

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I saw in your post that you had the door inserts redone and had a contrasting color welting/piping there. Just got back from upholstery shop and asked about that & they said they couldn't because there was no way for it to stick. I've seen this many times on other's cars so I'm surprised they told me this. Did you DIY, have a shop do it? Have a link to what you used or tell me how you got it to "stick" ?

 

[cavero]

I saw in your post that you had the door inserts redone and had a contrasting color welting/piping there. Just got back from upholstery shop and asked about that & they said they couldn't because there was no way for it to stick. I've seen this many times on other's cars so I'm surprised they told me this. Did you DIY, have a shop do it? Have a link to what you used or tell me how you got it to "stick" ?

The welting I have, it has a tab on the side you just shove into the seam and it just stays from the pressure.

 

[Shane361]

Installed the first part of the Stereo upgrades...the radio. DYNAVIN9! If you have the stock radio.....it is a MUST! It is SOOOOO nice to have an upgraded radio....feels like a new car!!! Now I just need to get the amp, mids and subs in! HAHAHA

 

[rocknrod]

Getting ready to change the rotors and pads. What are those colors on the ends of the studs? What do they mean?

 

[07 Boss]

They mean you have to put the matching color lug nuts on the corresponding stud. duh.

I'm sure they are probably from the factory and have to do with the assembly process. I wouldn't worry about it. The look pretty though.

You can yank those little clip/washers out of there too (bottom pic). They install those at the factory to keep the rotors on as it moves down the assembly line. If you ever buy aftermarket wheels those little clips will keep them from seating properly.

 

[JC SSP]

Wow Your car still has those factory brake rotor clips…. How many miles do you have?