Well let us know if you install this pump. I noticed it’s not compatible with E85.Found a possible fuel pump upgrade from Jegs. Shocked at the low price
JEGS 159078: High-Performance Fuel Pump Module for 2011-2014 Ford Mustang 3.7/5.0L - JEGS
High-Performance 106 gph Fuel Pump Module for 2010-2014 Ford Mustangwww.jegs.com
Well let us know if you install this pump. I noticed it’s not compatible with E85.
Will this eliminate the need for a boost-a-pump device?Once it arrives I'll have to see about getting my fuel level low to install it, then schedule a time to bring it to a local tuner here in NC. Been chatting with him and he thinks this pump will work great. Can't wait to get this all finished.
Will this eliminate the need for a boost-a-pump device?
Installing Deatschwerks DW400 fuel pump and tuning
It's going into a 2012 Mustang GTI almost went with that pump.
What are you installing it in?
Have you installed your pump? I am running into some issues at the moment. So originally fuel pump fuse is 15A, since I am using a fuel pump booster I upgraded to a 30A fuse. Using this fuel pump and a VMP booster, I am burning 30A fuses. Seems like I will need to upgrade wiring to prevent this from happening.I almost went with that pump.
What are you installing it in?
To avoid dry start I use the clear flood mode - start with full trottle, which shuts off the injectors, crank 3 seconds, normal start.At 125K engine appears to be very strong. I religiously use Motocraft FL-820S oil filter, Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic and I fill up the new oil filter with Lucas oil synthetic stabilizer to prevent dry start up after the change. FYI I am still planning on doing the chains, tensioners, etc.
Have you installed your pump? I am running into some issues at the moment. So originally fuel pump fuse is 15A, since I am using a fuel pump booster I upgraded to a 30A fuse. Using this fuel pump and a VMP booster, I am burning 30A fuses. Seems like I will need to upgrade wiring to prevent this from happening.
Changed both tie rod ends because the boot cracked. Cheap rubber combined with a bell shaped designed, not made to last 10 years. The new ones, made in Korea, have at least pre-formed rubber design.
Took me one hour per side.
I read in a Mercedes workshop manual that you should spray all nuts and open threads at suspension parts with wax spray, which I'm doing now.
View attachment 94222
Disconnect the fuel line from the hat, clamp a length of rubber line in its place and run it into a suitable container. Bypass the pump control module to provide power to the pump.I haven't yet. Found out that my tank was full and there's no way to syphon any gas out. Been letting it run idling every other weekend to burn off the gas. Down to about 5/8 now.
Not sure about the fuse. I'm sure I upgraded mine too, but mine might be a 40A since the nap is a 40A unit