Blue03Cobra
Member
Nice work, congrats!
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
- Start date
ghunt81
New parts on old junk!
Got some new shoes!
So, as many of you know from my sig I bought new takeoff 2018 GT wheels in 2018. I needed tires anyway and decided it was time for a change.
Found out Shelby is selling new takeoff '24/25 Performance Pack wheels on ebay and scored this set for $1200 shipped. I wanted performance pack wheels from the get-go but didn't like the black ones they ran on the S550- these ones are sweet! Will be putting these on in the spring.
So, as many of you know from my sig I bought new takeoff 2018 GT wheels in 2018. I needed tires anyway and decided it was time for a change.
Found out Shelby is selling new takeoff '24/25 Performance Pack wheels on ebay and scored this set for $1200 shipped. I wanted performance pack wheels from the get-go but didn't like the black ones they ran on the S550- these ones are sweet! Will be putting these on in the spring.
JimC
Senior Member
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I have a 2024 with that wheel and tire set up:
245 x 40 x 19 front (correction 255)
275 x 40 x 19 rear
Last edited:
MasterofDisaster
Senior Member
I really like the stock wheels on my 08.
MasterofDisaster
Senior Member
Bros!!!
If you have a conical air filter, stretch a L'eggs knee high over it. They're really cheap, and they'll keep out grass, leaves, pine needles, maple seeds, etc. I have noticed 0 change in mileage and performance.
They also make a great lint filter for your washing machine.
If you have a conical air filter, stretch a L'eggs knee high over it. They're really cheap, and they'll keep out grass, leaves, pine needles, maple seeds, etc. I have noticed 0 change in mileage and performance.
They also make a great lint filter for your washing machine.
ghunt81
New parts on old junk!
I think he mistyped, they are 255/40R19 fronts (19x9 wheel) and 275/40R19 rear (19x9.5 wheel)
I've been running 255/40R19's all around on my 2018 wheels so this will give me a little (very little) more width in the rear.
JimC
Senior Member
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Correct, hit the wrong number - 255 on the front.
Man that looks great. I need to wash mine but not really sure how to go about it. Please let me know how you washed yours.
MasterofDisaster
Senior Member
1st, wash the underside of your hood.
2d, cover the intake, plugs, and injectors with a sheet of plastic or a trash bag.
3d, use a good car wash concentrate and hose to clean up what you can reach on the motor and the compartment. I keep a few bottle brushes handy to clean the hard to reach spots.
4th, remove the plastic and clean areas you covered. As soon as it's clean -
5th, dry it off fast with compressed air of a leaf blower. You don't want that water sitting on your motor.
6th, wax what you can, and Armor All the plastic/rubber. [I would not use it on any belts.]
If it's getting close to winter, spray some lube on your hood release cable, hood release latch, and hood hinges.
2d, cover the intake, plugs, and injectors with a sheet of plastic or a trash bag.
3d, use a good car wash concentrate and hose to clean up what you can reach on the motor and the compartment. I keep a few bottle brushes handy to clean the hard to reach spots.
4th, remove the plastic and clean areas you covered. As soon as it's clean -
5th, dry it off fast with compressed air of a leaf blower. You don't want that water sitting on your motor.
6th, wax what you can, and Armor All the plastic/rubber. [I would not use it on any belts.]
If it's getting close to winter, spray some lube on your hood release cable, hood release latch, and hood hinges.
Maestro is spot on. I can only add that I use wd40 to protect the metal under the front lip of the hood so it won't rust. For engine soap I used Gunk spray foam and left it sit for 15 some minutes and then with the help of a regular painters brush rubbed the surface in order to loosen the particles . Then hosed it , blowed it with compressed air and wiped everything with a dry cloth. Didn't used ant other products.
Careful with the air or you blow off your warning labels as I did
Cheers
Martin
Edit: the great thing about this Gunk product is that it doesn't leave greasy residue, just wipes clean.
Careful with the air or you blow off your warning labels as I did
Cheers
Martin
Edit: the great thing about this Gunk product is that it doesn't leave greasy residue, just wipes clean.
Making some progress at my buddies shop. INstalling Scott Rod Underhood panels and paint matching to car. Temp fit along with home made catch can/puke tank. Also new wheels and Mickey Thompson tires front and rear. All kinds of goodies I will be posting pics of soon. Sold all thew 03-04 Cobra Brakes with the 93 Cobra Booster and Master. Installing all new TBM Street Brakes front and rear with master cylnder
hands down for the GT500 !
Blue03Cobra
Member
I was yesterday's age, when I discovered that a 2008 Mustang GT, with a tuned/CAI but otherwise stock 4.6 3V and TR3650 could run approx. 25 minutes on 10.8 volts of battery-only power. First, I got this in a parking lot 12 miles from home:
I have a lighter-plug phone holder/charger, that happens to have a digital voltmeter, in the dash...so could monitor the debacle, in real time. I also had documentation that the previous owner had the alternator replaced in 2017 (at 77K) and the real-world experience from members of this forum that the reman alternators were crap, which proved to be true with me, as well:
This heaping pile of dung lasted a whole 45K miles. However, armed with the impeccable knowledge of this forum's members, I had already purchased a replacement and upgraded cable, in anticipation of what exactly happened:
Removing and replacing both was very straightforward and the only detail not covered by the multitude of YouTube videos was the separation of the 3-pin harness from the factory positive cable and reusing it with the upgraded one, pictured below:
All in all it only took about 90 minutes, from start to finish, including cleaning the battery terminals and zip-tying everything to tidy up the (now separated) cables. 14.2V at the battery when running (had been mid-13s, previously) and the added energy seems to be noticeable in the SOTP dyno, as an added bonus...
I have a lighter-plug phone holder/charger, that happens to have a digital voltmeter, in the dash...so could monitor the debacle, in real time. I also had documentation that the previous owner had the alternator replaced in 2017 (at 77K) and the real-world experience from members of this forum that the reman alternators were crap, which proved to be true with me, as well:
This heaping pile of dung lasted a whole 45K miles. However, armed with the impeccable knowledge of this forum's members, I had already purchased a replacement and upgraded cable, in anticipation of what exactly happened:
Removing and replacing both was very straightforward and the only detail not covered by the multitude of YouTube videos was the separation of the 3-pin harness from the factory positive cable and reusing it with the upgraded one, pictured below:
All in all it only took about 90 minutes, from start to finish, including cleaning the battery terminals and zip-tying everything to tidy up the (now separated) cables. 14.2V at the battery when running (had been mid-13s, previously) and the added energy seems to be noticeable in the SOTP dyno, as an added bonus...
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MasterofDisaster
Senior Member
Shelby every time. The Demon may have more theoretical hp, but the Shelby is a better car.
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