Fake_Snake
FAUX GT500
If you give me time tomorrow I can get a pic of mine I saw they put it under the dash on the pass side..
4R70W install-S197...Here is a Write Up for you!
- Thread starter GI Joe
- Start date
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Yeah sweet. Anything would be great. Not too many pics around
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Starting to wire everything and had a quick question..
I have a painless wire kit (well, two now). The one I want to use is rated to 20 amp max on one of the units (painless 70117). Has 18ga wire vs the other one I use for the pumps etc
I was wondering if I can wire the painless 12v source directly to the switches for the Overdrive and torque converter directly thru the switches. From the limited info out there the O/D solenoid only pulls around 10 amps (15amp fuse normally) and the torque converter circuit should only pull 7-8 amps. Would be easier than dealing with the extra relays and less components to potentially fail.
I am thinking of doing the same with my reverse lights as I bought the hurst reverse switch.
I have a painless wire kit (well, two now). The one I want to use is rated to 20 amp max on one of the units (painless 70117). Has 18ga wire vs the other one I use for the pumps etc
I was wondering if I can wire the painless 12v source directly to the switches for the Overdrive and torque converter directly thru the switches. From the limited info out there the O/D solenoid only pulls around 10 amps (15amp fuse normally) and the torque converter circuit should only pull 7-8 amps. Would be easier than dealing with the extra relays and less components to potentially fail.
I am thinking of doing the same with my reverse lights as I bought the hurst reverse switch.
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05moneypit
Member
We didn't use relays for the OD and lock up on my set up. One three position switch. Center off. One way is lock up and the other is lock up and OD combined.
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
cool..cool..cool...I am not a Zombie lol
TungstenGT06
Member
Crown,
Did you buy the hurst backup switch kit part number: 2488601?
Did you buy the hurst backup switch kit part number: 2488601?
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
yes. that switch is nice however the lever would not contact the switch fully (manufacturer clearances were off slightly). I had to rheem out the front two holes to lower the micro-switch in order for it to work properly but not that big of a deal. Will take a pic and post it. It works great now
Got the neutral safety switch, reverse switch and trans brake wired. With the reverse switch I do not have to hold the tb button to back up. still waiting on my custom braided cooler lines to finish bolting the trans in but other than that close to done.
going to include wire diagrams on how I wired everything for others to use
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05moneypit
Member
Curious as to why you are using a micro switch for reverse and neutral? Mine uses the MLPS on the trans with no other switches.
minivanracer
Senior Member
in for pics of fb control harness and more info on hooking it up
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
EDIT
I am going to plug in the MLPS in for the reverse lights.. I do hope the MLPS will be all I need.
As far as the reverse and neutral safety switches are concerned... The OEM shifter contained the inputs to the BEC and PVM for those circuits. I just integrated them into the Hurst shifter. I really hope I remembered to write down which color wires they were but it was pretty straight forward.. ON MY setup.. my Manual Valve body requires me to have reverse with the transbrake engaged. I just felt it was easier to do with the reverse switch on the shifter. I was able to wire it so I do not have to hold the transbrake button while in reverse but do in 1st. Pretty happy about that too.
I also wired in a relay for the TC to activate with a momentary switch and stay on. I then have a signal from the brakes that will turn it off. Next I soldered up a LED and tied it into the O/D. I am also running my WOT signal thru the O/D circuit so it will shut off OD if I forget when I go wot. Plus mounted a TC led in the sos panel..
So.. the wiring was a bit of a PITA but think it should all work as I plan. Also rewired all my nitrous stuff and moved the OD stuff to the light switch panel. freggin tired and the mosquitos are little muther fuggers
Finally finished up wiring everything. Still waiting on the flange but the inside is buttoned up. I have schematics I will post up here.
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crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
ahhhh damit. the stupid bell housing bolts are too long from the 5r55s. Looks like by a bit too.
Goin to fastenal in the morning to pick up some m10x1.5x65mm fasteners. Looks like they need at least 35mm of thread with the shank 30mm max. Other than that got makeshift bolts in and crossmember in. Just a few other small things to finish but will post some wire diagrams and a few things I had to mod that may help others. Pretty happy after about 5 times lifting it to shape the tunnel.. and after all was good forgot to add fluid to the damn converter lol. so make that 6 times...
Goin to fastenal in the morning to pick up some m10x1.5x65mm fasteners. Looks like they need at least 35mm of thread with the shank 30mm max. Other than that got makeshift bolts in and crossmember in. Just a few other small things to finish but will post some wire diagrams and a few things I had to mod that may help others. Pretty happy after about 5 times lifting it to shape the tunnel.. and after all was good forgot to add fluid to the damn converter lol. so make that 6 times...
TexasBlownV8
Formerly TexasBlownV6
6 times...that's about average I think! Fitment testing/clearancing about 5 times, put in (and prefill the converter), 6 sounds about right.
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
yeahh but sucked as i did it in my garage at home with no lift and 24" jack stands. I am buying a lift for my garage after that bs
dysan
Dis-Member
I know that oh too well. I have done the trans swap, engine swap, etc in my garage on jack stands. It really does suck!
Fake_Snake
FAUX GT500
Think of the dollars you saved. Towards the lift by doing it yourself LOL ... You know what I'm talking crown..
Sorry I never got around to getting that pic. I dropped the ball on that.
Could you post a pic of the shifter all theway back in first gear?
Sorry I never got around to getting that pic. I dropped the ball on that.
Could you post a pic of the shifter all theway back in first gear?
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crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Had to machine a bracket but it all worked. I did not have to cut into my plastic plus it have me the angle and height I wanted. Release lever is Still about 2" from the ac knob
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05stroker
Never enough power guy!
You can get a manual shifter boot to finish it off. You just have to make a small cut for the reverse lock out.
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Fake_Snake
FAUX GT500
yeah i think i sent you the pic of mine it dips into the cup holder portion not by much.
its actually fine i dont grip it till it goes to 2d to 3rd so i just bump it up, then grab and get ready to squeeze to move it in to 3rd.
Just need more time on it for the Neutral bump is still a tad tricky for me.
its actually fine i dont grip it till it goes to 2d to 3rd so i just bump it up, then grab and get ready to squeeze to move it in to 3rd.
Just need more time on it for the Neutral bump is still a tad tricky for me.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
I made a pie shaped pc from 16ga sheet metal to lean it more to the front. When in park there is 1/4" from the shifter to the a/c knobs.
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