2008 "tigermachine II" Bullitt Mustang build, Pics & Video on Post #518 ...

[tjm73]

The value of that car is the current value of a nice 2009 Bullitt plus roughly half of the hard parts there are receipts for. All labor expense is lost. Sucks, but that's how it is.

 

[RocketcarX]

For a guy that calls the 2019 Bullitt "just another Mustang" he sure is proud of his used car...I understand wanting to not lose money but you could purchase a 2014 GT500 for $20k or more less and have more car.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

The owner in question does none of his own work so he'd be paying inflated labor costs to return the car to stock and possibly having to repurchase OEM parts to put back on. I don't have the inclination to run the numbers, but it's probably easier and cheaper to sell it as-is, even if he loses 100% of his "investment" in aftermarket parts. It's a clean 2009 Bullitt; nothing more. It's worth probably 10-20% more than a stock Bullitt, but that doesn't put it anywhere near the $50k range. I hope for Mr. Honaker's sake that he revisits reality, prices it to at least garner interest, or just keeps it.

Yes, I agree that it would cost Terry more to return the car back to stock by paying someone else to do the work, rather than just sell it as is despite losing his investment in aftermarket parts. Despite how clean he kept the car and put tons of money into building it up, I also don't see a modified 2009 Bullitt being worth anywhere near $59k when you can find a well maintained OEM GT500 for $40k and less. At any rate, the purpose of my previous post was intended as just being hypothetical lol.

 

[mrt2you]

one thing no one has posted about the high prices at gateway is the dealer markup.
in my opinion is the markup is probably in the 12-17K range. they will discount it down to 10K to let someone think they are getting a deal.
i would bet a few $$$ that after the first selling contract expired terry is now paying about $100 a month for storage and advertising.
everyone is saying his car is worth mid 20's. in my opinion he could probably get low 30's . it's probably worth about a built GT500 in nice shape. they sell in that range.

 

[tjm73]

I looked at Gateway Classics website once and all I saw was a ritzy looking website with lots of nice pictures and a entire "stock" of overpriced cars. Cars that were $18,000 dollar cars were advertised as $30-35,000 dollar cars. Every car was grossly over priced in my opinion.

Looked of shady used classic car dealer to me.

 

[46addict]

one thing no one has posted about the high prices at gateway is the dealer markup.
in my opinion is the markup is probably in the 12-17K range. they will discount it down to 10K to let someone think they are getting a deal.
i would bet a few $$$ that after the first selling contract expired terry is now paying about $100 a month for storage and advertising.
everyone is saying his car is worth mid 20's. in my opinion he could probably get low 30's . it's probably worth about a built GT500 in nice shape. they sell in that range.

I said this in post #1488. The cars at this dealer network are inflated by 1.5x-2x what they would be listed for on local classifieds.

 

[redfirepearlgt]

I would be interested to see what it would bring at Meccum or Barrett. Set a $59000 reserve and see what it does. One can always remove the reserve if they choose during the auction or take it back home. I think it would be worth the fees and transportation hassle just to see what the market in those arenas would value it at on a given day. Who knows, get two eccentric egos with a few drinks in them into a bidding war and it may fetch close to that price. Weirder things have happened at these auctions.

 

[Pentalab]

Terry does have a built engine though.......+ blower.... + nitrous, etc. The TCI super streetfighter 5r55s is rated at 600 hp by TCI...and 1200 hp by Brenspeed.
Looking at JDM engineering old notes, they got one season from a built 5R55S. Typ season for them was 200 runs down the strip. Poor 5r55s sent in for yet another rebuild. 5R55S comes with a puny, undersized 12mm (.472") input shaft. Any oem 5r55s will blow its brains out with > 500 rwhp. The 5r55s requires the jdm catch can..or it will puke atf all over the road. It also requires the deeper oil pan + a 2nd auto tranny cooler.

 

[tjm73]

The 5R was crap for a V8 at any power level beyond stock and Ford knew it. It's even so-so for stock 4.6 V8 power levels. Shame really. It had good ratios and was promising on paper.

 

[Pentalab]

The 5R was crap for a V8 at any power level beyond stock and Ford knew it. It's even so-so for stock 4.6 V8 power levels. Shame really. It had good ratios and was promising on paper.

The 5R does have good ratio's. 2nd gear in the 5R is 14% lower than 2nd gear in the manual. 3rd gear in the 5R is 16.5% lower than 3rd gear in the manual.
In 2nd gear on a manual, you would require a 3.73 rear gear to equal the 3.31 rear gear in the auto. In 3rd gear on the manual, you would require a 3.90 rear gear to equal the 3.31 rear gear in the auto. Install a 3.73 / 3.90 /4.10 rear gear on the auto, and you have tq to burn.

The gearing in the 5R is perfect imo. It's just not a hd tranny. Looking at more old notes from JDM engineering, it's the downshifts that are really hard on the 5R.
They ran into that problem when losing traction, backpedal the gas, blower loses boost, 5R upshifts, regain traction..... back on the gas, blower into full boost, then the poor 5R does its downshift..then the problems start. What's really hard on the 5R.....and to be avoided like the plague is stuff like 5-3 shift, 5-2 shift, 4-2 shift.

On the street, with street tires, PD blower + auto tranny has to be respected. It can get away on you quick like. Mash the gas a bit too much, blower kicks in, tranny drops down a bunch of gears, tq through the roof, and back end all over the map if not pointed straight ahead. There's very few people I let drive my car. One experienced local 'expert' looped it, turning left onto a major 4 lane, one way street.. that is the start of the local hwy. Light turns green for the 4 lanes..and here comes 600 bunched up cars bearing down on a couple of idiots, with their mustang swapping ends, straddling the 2 middle lanes. Final straw, never again. Unsuspecting folks don't realize you can easily get in over your head.

 

[46addict]

I would guess that the 5R was an experimental stepping stone to the 6R just as the 4.6 3v VCT setup was a segway to the twin VCT Coyote. We are in "peak hot rod".

 

[Pentalab]

1000+ crank hp + 5R5S = asking for trbl. Any unsuspecting buyer could easily be in over his head within 5-10 miles of taking possession, regardless of final price.

 

[46addict]

To be fair it's a TCI Street Fighter version and I know shifting behavior can be manipulated in the tune. So hopefully Brenspeed & TCI have it tamed.

 

[tjm73]

We are in "peak hot rod".

I'd argue we are in "peak internal combustion". They can literally dial up any power level they want with almost any displacement they want.

 

[Pentalab]

To be fair it's a TCI Street Fighter version and I know shifting behavior can be manipulated in the tune. So hopefully Brenspeed & TCI have it tamed.

He has the...'super street fighter' version, which is the hd version of a plane jane ...'street fighter'. Yes, there is something like a total of 32 adjustments in software for the 5r55s. I got my tune from VMP, and they unlocked some of it on my SCT, so I can adjust the shift points up /down a bit... individually on a shift by shift basis. IE: 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5. I can also tweak the firmness , also on a shift by shift basis. With blower on, the shifts have to be both firmer..and faster. If that is not done, the poor 5r55s won't last at all. They can tweak the line pressure in the tune..up to a point, to speed the shifts a bit.

I have had zero issues with my 5r..touch wood, but I'm careful with it. If I know I'm going into hot rod mode on the hwy, I'll take foot off the gas, shut OD off, then manually shift into 3rd gear, then I'm good up to 95 mph. Around town, if moving, even a bit, same deal, but manually shifted into 2nd gear, then I'm good up to 60 mph, which is usually ample for a short rolling street race with some ricer etc.
If > 60 mph required, manually shift into 3rd, well before 6 krpm, ( gas mashed, blower on) then it stays in 2nd gear..till it hits 6 krpm, then the 2-3 shift occurs. Same thing can be done if > 95 mph required, manually shift from 3rd to Drive, well before 6 krpm.
Starting off in Drive, 1st gear is all but useless with typ street tires, so I take it 'easy' at lights, taking off in 1st gear. The goal is to get into 2nd gear asap, then I can hammer it. If you spin it out in 1st, it will just spin out into 2nd ..so it's all counterproductive.

My new MPSS in 305-35-19 get mounted on the new rims this week, then go onto the rears, towards the end of this month. Hopefully, they may work a bit better than the 285-40-18's I had on there last year. ( 285's being shifted to the fronts, 275 fronts being tossed to one side for the time being).

 

[46addict]

Do you have an aftermarket cooler?

 

[Pentalab]

Do you have an aftermarket cooler?

http://www.bmracing.com/products/70...13000-btu-rating-black/?mk=&yr=&md=&smd=&eng=

## I use the above BM racing 70268 auto tranny cooler. It's 8.5" high x 11.25" wide x 3/4" thick. You can't go more than 3/4" thick..so all the 1.5" thick types are out of the equation. (Beware, their 70264 is 1.5" thick..too thick. Their 70255 is only 9800 BTU, 3/4" thick, only a few $ less. Nobody ever carries it. )

13,000 BTU rated. You can buy the exact same one just about any where like jegs or summit etc.
It's a stacked plate design... better than tube and fin. I installed it just below the ford oem auto tranny cooler... + plumbed it in series with the oem cooler. Its a popular item, even here in town. I bought mine at the local dyno place, good price at the time, and he had loads of em in stock.

Before, with ATF up to normal 170 deg F... mash the gas, blower on, ATF temps would shoot up to 201 F in just 5-9 secs. Now with the BM cooler installed, it only increases by 1-2 degs F at most... like from 170 to 172 max. Solved all my tranny heating issues, zero issues with it, built really well, all brazed and pressure tested etc. I took the readings with my aeroforce gauges... plugged into obd port.

I also installed a JDM engineering 5r55s catch can. Without the catch can, the 5r55s will puke out ATF all over the ground, when hot. JDM makes 2 x versions, one for the 05-09 cars, and the 2nd version is for the 2010. We mounted that close to the corner, on fender wall, on driver's side.

Also installed a PA ( performance automatic) deeper auto tranny pan. Holds an extra 4 qts. It's 2.1" deeper
(hangs lower than oem)..and is triple the weight, even though its made from aluminum. The aluminum is damned near 5/8" thick where it bolts on with a myriad of new, included SS hex head bolts. 3/8" thick x 3/8" tall aluminum fins run the entire length of the new al pan. Also came with a drain plug. Also comes with a locking style dipstick, that comes up next to the firewall, close to the battery. Opening on dipstick is plenty big enough to easily add ATF fluid if required.

Used some pressure on one side of oem cooler, and a vac pump on the other side of same oem cooler, to get all the old ford ATF out. Then installed new tranny cooler in series with oem cooler. Then re-filled with one helluva lot of RP max ATF.

This is the stuff you have to do to make the poor 5r55s survive. And mine is not built like the street fighter series, just plane oem. Even on those, you still need the deeper pan / extra cooler / catch can.

The oem pan is useless. With NO dipstick, you have no clue what the level is. Bitch to use fords method down below to check level..and add /refill. With no catch can, the levels can and will be way down, esp if it runs hot, using the blower. Then it runs hotter still.

BTW, I bought and used a new ford gasket for the new, deeper pan. Don't re-use the old junk. Also tranny filter cleaned etc.

 

[46addict]

Yeah not having a dipstick or drain plug is Ford's way of saying screw you and get a new car when the transmission breaks. At least they didn't design it as a "maintenance free" trans with no way to drain the fluid.

And 201* does not seem excessive. I imagine with repeated pulls the temperature will continue to climb, but I would have thought a blower car will cook things hotter and faster. Good to know that the 3/4" thick cooler made such a significant difference. Do you know offhand what the GVWR rating is on the cooler you are using?

 

[Pentalab]

Yeah not having a dipstick or drain plug is Ford's way of saying screw you and get a new car when the transmission breaks. At least they didn't design it as a "maintenance free" trans with no way to drain the fluid.

And 201* does not seem excessive. I imagine with repeated pulls the temperature will continue to climb, but I would have thought a blower car will cook things hotter and faster. Good to know that the 3/4" thick cooler made such a significant difference. Do you know offhand what the GVWR rating is on the cooler you are using?

What is the GVWR rating ? This one I used is listed as 11,000 BTU. You can also get em a lot bigger capacity than that. They will handle a lot of pressure too.

 

[46addict]

Gross vehicle weight rating. I thought all trans coolers have this rating as a guideline but I can't find one on the B&M cooler. I found a cooler with similar dimensions and it has a 18k GVWR. The gross weight on our cars is like 5k and the typical aftermarket cooler on passenger cars/SUVs are rated at 26k from what I've seen.

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/82050...JvZBXm0gg00Rt-LAnruPlqXHqr5dWZ7gaAljJEALw_wcB