What have you done to your mustang today?

Bedouin

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Yeah definitely some nickel anti seize on the sleeve, probably not the threads or you can risk over-torqing them.

I've gone as long as 40k before changing mine, but you definitely won't hurt anything by doing it sooner--other than your wallet, that is.

I've also put in E3 spark plugs because they're one piece, not because of any claimed gains (there weren't any, the car ran fine though)
I’ve an ‘08 Shelby GT (not 500) w 10k miles & I have to assume still with original plugs..would it be wise to pull them out earlier (now) than later & replace with new, rather than delay & as they get more carbon’d up?
 
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maroonandwhite

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I’ve an ‘08 Shelby GT w 10k miles & I have to assume still with original plugs..would it be wise to pull them out earlier (now) than later & replace with new, rather than delay & as they get more carbon’d up?
I probably would. I go ahead and order the Lisle 65600 extractor tool as well. Ordered mine from Amazon and just sent it back since I didn’t use it.
The newer SP547X plugs have a nickel coating on the lower part from what I’ve read.

All that said, if you pull your plug boots and they are brown instead of black, you won’t have the two piece plugs. They switched them over some time in 2008.
 
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I’ve an ‘08 Shelby GT w 10k miles & I have to assume still with original plugs..would it be wise to pull them out earlier (now) than later & replace with new, rather than delay & as they get more carbon’d up?
That issue basically went away once they redesigned the heads. I have a 2008 GT500 with 12,000 original miles, and I replaced my plugs and coil packs in December and it was no issue. My car was built in May 2008.

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ryunker

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After new hearing aids (yes old guy at 62) the tunes in my ride are pure shit. went thru the eq and dsp settings on the head unit make them close to tolerable, so off I went and ordered up two sets of infinity Kappa speakers to fix the issue. previous owner swapped the speakers for a pair of entry level Kenwood's so I did not order any pigtails to go with the new speakers. took off the door panel and was shocked to find substandard wiring job there, so I went to the rears to find these now old ass oem speakers still there. Auto part stores in town left me stranded by not stocking the pigtails. now the car sits apart until they arrive on Tuesday morning.20260322_082328.jpg

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JC SSP

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I have the same ones in my 03’ Taurus. I got them from Crutchfield and they came with harness. They sound very good. Have Polk Audio on 05' GT.
 
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Gabe

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Yesterday, changed the supercharger oil in the wife's GT500 with the 2.3 TVS.
Used a fluid extractor to suck out the old fluid and put in the new fluid.
Considering the old fluid has been in there for about 10 years, I was a little surprised it wasn't darker, but still big difference to the almost clear new stuff.

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I've been fine-tuning my low and high-speed fan "ON" settings with my tuner. I recently upgraded my cooling system with the Ford Performance 7 Blade 2013 Fan assembly and also installed the 2005-14 Mustang Dual Speed Fan Relay Harness. I am happy with my settings so far. We will see what a hot 100-degree day will do.
 

GlassTop09

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Also noted that both rear tire's tread wear has reached the wear bars thus will need to get replaced shortly (mostly from making a LOT of 2,500-6,000+ RPM 1\4 mi WOT hits while datalogging after a tune reflash........the 1-2 & 2-3 shifts are where the rear tires will momentarily break traction on the initial post shift full WOT hit.......1-2 shift is by far the hardest on them........they've been on the car since 4-2019, started self-tuning in 3-2022 but started really getting after it after I got my OBDII Relocation Harness installed in 12-2022 to facilitate datalogging while driving thus the start of datalogging WOT hits.

Gonna stick w\ the trusty Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 series all-weather (DWS = dry, wet, snow) hybrid performance compound tires (fronts are approx 1 1\2 yrs old--replaced due to abnormal inner shoulder tire wear from worn inner tie rods & wheel hub bearings thus only need rear tires........).
Ordered a pair of replacement tires for the rear (same Conti Extreme Contact DWS06 series in 295\35\18.....) Saturday @ Discount Tire..........checked on them this morning........scheduled to be in this afternoon so will be getting these changed out either this afternoon or in AM.

Prices have gone up quite considerably............bought the full initial set back in 4-2019 for $1,249.99 + tax installed w\ full 50,000 mi warranty........just these 2 rear tires are currently running me $1,046.95 + tax installed w\ same full 50,000 mi warranty.

But going forward, these should last much, much longer since I've gotten her mostly tuned out to my satisfaction across the board (from idle to WOT, full OEM-like drivability as well as catalyst operations, both OEM functionality & full WOT reliability......thanks mostly to Greg Banish, Jeff Evans, Don LaSota, Billy Godbold & John Baechtel......) as currently configured (once I get the cats upgraded to the G-Sport\GESI's will only need to touch WOT again as these cats should remove a well-documented exhaust restriction from 4,200 RPM up thru my existing MF #5461336 CARB-cert TWC cats--initially found when I had my Lunati VooDoo #21270700 cams installed & properly optimized running thru CMDP's as well as CMCV's which the FRPP Hot Rod cams made it worse due to improved airflow thruput above the Lunati's running thru same CMCV's using the same opening load% schedule that I programmed\optimized w\ performance being the main criteria in calibration under the Lunati's--not Ford's OEM opening load% scheduling they used w\ the OEM stock cams which was optimized specifically for CAFE stds, not HP\TQ.....FYI.....) as the tread showed to have gotten fairly abused over the last 2 years.......1 area where a dyno will easily save some costs is wear\tear on tires during WOT tuning vs remote\DIY WOT tuning where you're at the mercy of the road surface's condition\texture you're using.........
 

cavero

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Where'd you learn about how to set the CMCV schedule? Not like how you plug it into the software, but how to figure out the best time to open the valves, etc?
 

GlassTop09

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Where'd you learn about how to set the CMCV schedule? Not like how you plug it into the software, but how to figure out the best time to open the valves, etc?
Reread this posting: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/m...home-time-on-my-06.142209/page-4#post-2560966 specifically posts #68 & #69..................

The rest comes from being a long-time computer nerd...........have dabbled into learning computer programming back in the day..........this helps me to understand how the Ford Spanish Oaks ECU's code line processing is written to process the calibration coding, which then helps me to make sense of how the Ford Spanish Oaks ECU will use the settings, scalars & mapping--which is approx 85%-90% of what a tuner really needs to get a handle on\around to be able to proficiently use any tuning software......the part that you can't see on a computer screen.

Also, at one time in my working past, I was a certified F3 Electronic Measurement Technician @ Phillips Petroleum Co before the ConocoPhillips merger in 2003, thus also am well versed into the sciences behind air\gas flow thru a pipe\meter tube..........which the sciences behind an intake manifold's runner design aren't so strange to me as they use similar mathematical science\gas & air laws of physics & equations thus the relation to the TB vs the CMCV's is a relatively simple thing when you understand the science behind the concept of what they call "choke flow" or "sonic flow" as these mean the same thing thus know how this will affect the TB's operations ahead of it when the CMCV's are closed vs open.......thus can understand what to look for to then reschedule the CMCV's to do what they're designed to do BUT not cause disruptions in the Ford Spanish Oaks ECU's SD airmass calc'ing integrity surrounding the TB........thus actually maintain or improve usable engine HP\TQ outputs in the process.

So, in effect, most of this (the sciences that is......) I knew of beforehand (mathematics, biology & physics were my strong suites in school....) & the rest of this I figured out on my own w\o much help from the aftermarket tuners outside of basic tuning as they show thru some of their teachings to not have as good of a grasp as they may want you to think when put up against an actual OEM calibration engineer (their strengths mostly center around WOT operations that can be seen\measured on dyno sheets, but somewhat lacking on good drivability, emissions, operational engine efficiency & efficient catalyst operations & maintenance tuning.....all aspects that a dyno can't provide much help with--especially an inertia dyno.....which is the majority of dynos most tuners still use instead of true load bearing control dynos......but even w\ these 1 is still somewhat limited......depending on the range & amount of load resistance it can induce thru the rollers vs how the vehicle will actually be used........the rest has to be done or corrected on the road under actual environmental operating conditions & is why most tunes\tuners thought to be good are done thru remote tuning\remote tuners........), but all of Greg Banish's 3 books & his online Ford tuning materials--both 3V & Coyote\Ecoboost--has been a BIG help as Greg focuses on the sciences the OEM's use behind all of this & how to properly apply it all to get the most useable HP\TQ out of an engine across the board from a performance perspective while at the same time setup\maintain excellent drivability, legal emissions, optimal overall engine efficiency across the board AND how to tune to keep cats from getting destroyed during WOT operations w\ very little negative effect on WOT HP & TQ outputs, even when using FI--all w\o breaking any NDA's so his creditability in the OEM automotive industry is maintained...... Billy Godbold's book helps a LOT w\ understanding performance cam timing dynamics, design & usage.....especially when VCT, VVT or Tri-VCT is being used to optimally dial up & setup VCT mapping tables for performance--John Baechtel's book covers all aspects of automotive engine sciences......mostly physics around airmass flow & cylinder VE dynamics thru an engine & the mathematical equations surrounding street & performance engine building & operations which is a BIG help to use math to ensure that the engine as a system is properly set up using the proper components\designs to match the performance goals, metrics & outcomes of the engine as the purposes intended for it to run in\under thus all works to complement each other & not against each other.......along w\ the use of good engine dyno simulation software--like DynoSim 6 (recommended by both Billy Godbold & John Baechtal.......I bought a copy for my use........a real time saver & optimizer tool.......), to run computer simulated engine dyno sweeps to get a handle on what shows to actually work vs what doesn't to save a LOT of time making actual datalog\dyno runs to then setup & dial in good VCT mapping to optimize a cam profile used in this engine........once an accurate engine model is created in the software so that the data it spits out can be useful..........remember w\ any computer (this includes ECU's.....) is only as good as the setup info programmed into it.........IOW's garbage in always equals garbage out.

The rest comes from effectively learning how to & using datalogging to capture as much actual engine parameter operations as well as ECU operations in real time.......including all subsystem operations--like EVAP, IM Readiness monitoring, fuel delivery, knock detection, CMCV operation, etc--to then see where & how 1 can go in & reprogram the ECU's calibration to take full advantage of all of the actual cam timing profile being used along w\ all of the other aspects across the board so all is seamless as well as optimal in operations.

That's why I sent you a copy of my CMCV load% opening settings tailored to your car's MY MT calibration strategy in that thread for consideration so the data contained in it would be plug & play if used as I've already worked all this out according to actual calc'd engine load% or VE thru the closed CMCV's in relation to actual engine RPMs--determinator of said engine load% or VE along w\ the cam timing events--thus the size of the TB being used doesn't really matter as the ECU's Torque Management thru DBW throttle control will accurately position the TB TBA to match the load% thus will shield the CMCV's from getting into sonic flow before the ECU can then open them fully........that is, if the TUNER does the tuning properly (meaning accurately) up front for the TB's actual physical PTA & EA parameters from idle to WOT & doesn't go in & disable TM...........

Enough on this in here.............anymore, we'll need to take it off the forums.............

Hope this helps.
 

GriffX

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Prices have gone up quite considerably............bought the full initial set back in 4-2019 for $1,249.99 + tax installed w\ full 50,000 mi warranty........just these 2 rear tires are currently running me $1,046.95 + tax installed w\ same full 50,000 mi warranty.
And it will increase further, because it is made with sulfur and heavy crude oil and the supply of if is crippled due to crazy politicians, who steal our money, enrich them self and throw it around in foreign countries and our cities are demolished and flooded with aliens, who again, steal our money, sometimes with knifes. I'm soo sick of it
Sorry for my rant .....
 

GlassTop09

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Also yesterday, I fabbed up a couple of exhaust hanger bushing brackets to use to mount my Pypes Universal SS Dual Exhaust Hanger system to my Kooks midpipe & trans crossmember mount so that it functions exactly like the 05-06 MY OEM exhaust hanger system did...........but w\o the issues the 05-06 setup had thus should stay very solid but also very quiet thus shouldn't interfere w\ the ECU's knock detection at all due to the much better designed Pypes SS hanger bushing mounts, then remassaged the adjustable 5\16" SS hanger rods into a 45* angle design so that these clamp on hangers will fit very close to the trans crossmember once mounted on the midpipe thus won't need a lot of rod thus should stiffen this up quite a bit but stay quiet & frequency free.

Picture provided below...............

Once fully installed, will then cut off the excess rod to maintain a cleaner look but full function & cut off the old hangers that I had a muffler shop do some 8 yrs back to finish cleanup of the midpipe.

Waiting on some M8 x 1.25 x 20mm SS bulge bolts (bolt heads designed for countersunk holes in brackets so brackets will fit flush to trans crossmember surface) to arrive before doing this work

Went w\ these Pypes hangers as all this is made from good ole 409 SS thus no rusting or corroding but got enough ferrous metal in them to facilitate easier cutting.

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